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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    The relay is in the panel above the fuses in the left footwell, upper row, second from the left. You can pull the relay and jumper terminals 3 and 5 in the relay panel to simulate an operating relay (pump will be on all the time). The relay itself is a $10-12 item at retail, so I wouldn't put too much time into it.............
  2. JFP in PA
    Relays fail under these conditions due to the excessive load on them when the pump starts to go in and out of cavitations as the fuel runs out; so no, it is not a coincidence. Pulling the battery cable will clear the P1502 code, as will any scanner.
  3. JFP in PA
    Relays sometimes fail by going intermittant (sometimes work, sometimes do not). When this happens, the fuel pressure starts jumping all over the place.
  4. JFP in PA
    What year and model is the car? P1502 it a throttle jacking code on some years, and a fuel pump relay code on other years..............
  5. JFP in PA
    You just discovered why you should not buy stuff like water pumps based upon price alone; you typically get what you paid for…… Rather than fuss with the knock off pump, I would either return it, or throw it in the trash. We have never had any luck with aftermarket water pumps on these cars, and the ones with metal impellers can chew the Hell out of your engine case when they fail, filling the cooling system with metal filings. Not a good thing on an engine with a lot of very small water passages……….. Buy an OEM unit.
  6. JFP in PA
    I would also not hesitate to replace the RMS and IMS while the car is apart. I would also plan on at least a new clutch and throw out bearing while you are at it; with those miles it is probably close to needing it anyway. I'd also check the flywheel for the proper amount of "twist" for the same reason; you really do not want to have to go back in there any time soon, so do it correctly the first time.
  7. JFP in PA
    I cannot say that I have ever encountered a coil pack making a sound.
  8. JFP in PA
    You might be surprised, we have had factory cars come in with this type of complaint and found O2 sensors that were either finger tight, or partially unscrewed. A quick tightening was all that was required to silence the noise.
  9. JFP in PA
    If your fuel pump ever does decide to start whistling, you will be in trouble because they simply do not do that. Are you sure that you properly torqued the new o2 sensors when you installed them? Very small exhaust leaks can whistle. I'd put the car up in the air and cold start it while looking and listening where you think it is coming from..........
  10. JFP in PA
    While I hate to cast aspersions on shops I do not personally know, I really don't like what I am hearing. They have determined that a rod is stretched based upon looking at it? Sorry; no sale................. There are ways to detect rod stretch and twist; looking at them (unless the problem is really dramatic) is not one that I would trust. You should also never be testing the rod for correctness with the bolts finger tight. You rods could be bad, but without measurement data, I would suggest getting them properly checked.
  11. JFP in PA
    It is impossible to say if the rods are good or not by just looking at pictures. They need to be Magafluxed, checked for center line to centerline, twist, bearing and wrist pin bores tested for roundness and size, etc., etc. Any competent machine shop can do that for you. At a minimum, they will need new bolts (you never reuse rod bolts in these engines). If your current machine shop cannot explain why you need new rods, I would think you actually need a new rmachine shop…………
  12. JFP in PA
    You didn't say anything about the battery; load test it, check the terminals for corrosion and clean if necessary, check the cables for resistance, replace if necessary..............
  13. JFP in PA
    If you really wanted to get cute, you can heliarc a fitting into the top of your oil cooler and get temperature and/or pressure readings; or as shown use it to feed an Accusump unit...........
  14. JFP in PA
    How bad they are, and which ones are the worst often vary from car to car, but I am yet to see a coolant temp unit that was anywhere near correct...............
  15. JFP in PA
    Not very................. The sensor section in these car are fine in terms of accuracy, it is the dash displays that are questionable. OBD II/Durametric/PIWIS/PST II all read the sensor.
  16. JFP in PA
    I would connect the Motive unit to the car empty, pump it up to about 10-12 PSIG, and then start squirting or use a small brush to coat each and every one of the connections on the unit with a mixture of dishwashing soap and water; one or more of the connections should start blowing bubbles, and is become the focus to tighten until the bubbles stop. Once the leaks are corrected, the unit will be permanently repaired. Yes, you can go the "two man route" and keep opening, refilling and capping the brake reservoir, but it is time consuming as Hell compared to using the Motive unit, and dramatically increases the possibility of spilling brake fluid on a painted surface. I'd fix the Motive unit and be done with it, we have used Motive units in the shop for years; they work quickly and efficiently, and are by far the best tool for the job.
  17. JFP in PA
    Not really; requires special fixtures and tooling, simply not worth it.
  18. JFP in PA
    The Motive unit is leaking, not your brakes. You need to go over the Motive unit carefully and find the leak (cap, seal, connections, etc.). If you had a hydrualic system leak, your brakes would not be "fine", they would not work properly, if at all.............. This is exactly why I always caution first time users of the Motive system, which is an excellent tool, to pressurize the system empty first to about 12-15 PSIG and make sure it is tight before filling the system with brake fluid.
  19. JFP in PA
    From a stoichiometry as well as a volumetric efficiency perspective, the cooler and more consistent the incoming air charge, the better off the power output should be. But this runs into several large caveats along the way, such as where is the intake charge temp measured, how much of the actual engine intake runner system is allowed to heat soak, and how fast the intake charge is moving. As there is a huge mass of heat soaked intake system, as well at the throttle body itself due to its location, quite often these ultra slick looking cold air systems add absolutely nothing to the car other than more noise.
  20. JFP in PA
    You need to remember that the dash gauge in these cars is both non-linear as well as grossly inaccurate to begin with. Rather than trying to finely increment what is known to be questionable to begin with, plug an OBD II scanner with PID catalog capability into the port under the dash and read the real temperatures……
  21. JFP in PA
    Amongst the many reasons we don’t use aftermarket pumps is simple customer satisfaction; far too many aftermarket units simply do not last and the car ends up coming back and either the shop or the customer ends up paying twice; the definition of “false economy.” Shops cannot afford this type of event, nor can the customers, particularly when buying the OEM pump for a few more bucks totally alleviates the chance of it. happening...................
  22. JFP in PA
    Unless you have the correct equipment, this is a job for a pro. It could be any number of simple things (relay, sensors, etc.), but if the gas is low, the leak needs to be found and fixed before recharging it.
  23. JFP in PA
    This problem is well known; the M96/97 engines use a water pump with a plastic impeller assembly, which can fail over time, not only killing the pump, but filling very small water passages with small bits of debris which can significantly restrict water flow and cause engine killing hot spots to form: While there are aftermarket pumps with metal impellers, they are even worse than the OEM design, so we do not even consider using them.
  24. JFP in PA
    Loren, you are just too quick for me........................ :notworthy:
  25. JFP in PA
    The electrical section or the switch is dying, easy DIY fix; part is about $10 or so over here. Very common problem, with many write ups with photos, so do a search.
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