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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    The Motive unit is leaking, not your brakes. You need to go over the Motive unit carefully and find the leak (cap, seal, connections, etc.). If you had a hydrualic system leak, your brakes would not be "fine", they would not work properly, if at all.............. This is exactly why I always caution first time users of the Motive system, which is an excellent tool, to pressurize the system empty first to about 12-15 PSIG and make sure it is tight before filling the system with brake fluid.
  2. JFP in PA
    From a stoichiometry as well as a volumetric efficiency perspective, the cooler and more consistent the incoming air charge, the better off the power output should be. But this runs into several large caveats along the way, such as where is the intake charge temp measured, how much of the actual engine intake runner system is allowed to heat soak, and how fast the intake charge is moving. As there is a huge mass of heat soaked intake system, as well at the throttle body itself due to its location, quite often these ultra slick looking cold air systems add absolutely nothing to the car other than more noise.
  3. JFP in PA
    You need to remember that the dash gauge in these cars is both non-linear as well as grossly inaccurate to begin with. Rather than trying to finely increment what is known to be questionable to begin with, plug an OBD II scanner with PID catalog capability into the port under the dash and read the real temperatures……
  4. JFP in PA
    Amongst the many reasons we don’t use aftermarket pumps is simple customer satisfaction; far too many aftermarket units simply do not last and the car ends up coming back and either the shop or the customer ends up paying twice; the definition of “false economy.” Shops cannot afford this type of event, nor can the customers, particularly when buying the OEM pump for a few more bucks totally alleviates the chance of it. happening...................
  5. JFP in PA
    Unless you have the correct equipment, this is a job for a pro. It could be any number of simple things (relay, sensors, etc.), but if the gas is low, the leak needs to be found and fixed before recharging it.
  6. JFP in PA
    This problem is well known; the M96/97 engines use a water pump with a plastic impeller assembly, which can fail over time, not only killing the pump, but filling very small water passages with small bits of debris which can significantly restrict water flow and cause engine killing hot spots to form: While there are aftermarket pumps with metal impellers, they are even worse than the OEM design, so we do not even consider using them.
  7. JFP in PA
    Loren, you are just too quick for me........................ :notworthy:
  8. JFP in PA
    The electrical section or the switch is dying, easy DIY fix; part is about $10 or so over here. Very common problem, with many write ups with photos, so do a search.
  9. JFP in PA
    What are you bitching about? You wanted a “hotter” engine, and now you have one that apparently makes heat when it isn’t even running……………… :jump:
  10. JFP in PA
    Several years back, there were reports of the same code and conditions (not throttle) in cars still under warranty, which was traced to software issues in the DME. While some DME's were replaced, Porsche supposedly came up with a DME re-flash that cured the issue. Before jumping for a new DME, contact PCNA ands see if your car can be re-flashed, which has to be one Hell of a lot cheaper............ Unless I am mistaken, this was all covered on the RennTech forum, so I’d also do a search…………..
  11. JFP in PA
    One that starts to open at 160F instead of 186F.
  12. JFP in PA
    Yes, the light will go out when the fault is removed.
  13. JFP in PA
    First of all, in many states, more and more insurance companies are denying all diminished value claims; some are even requiring the insured party (you) to sign a waiver for any future claims as a pre requirement before issuing or renewing your policy. Their stance is that insurance is there to “make you whole”, and when the car is repaired, you are “whole” again, and diminished value claims are “enriching” you, not making you whole. As for taking the other party to court, that is always your right, but be very prepared for a fight as I'm sure they will defer the claim to their insurance carrier, who has an entire building full of lawyers that are just waiting for this to happen.............. No one really likes the way insurance works, but these cases are rapidly becoming “test cases” for state insurance regulators.
  14. JFP in PA
    unless bearings went bad the only thing that can break in alternator is a voltage regulator. $40 on ebay. 1-1.5 hours to take it out. I thought Porsche maintainer is a CTEK maintainer (old versions) with Porshe sticker on it. The very first Porsche maintainer (black in color) was not by Ctek, they came later.
  15. JFP in PA
    Be very careful about online PIWIS clones, while some are actually ripped off copies of early versions of the real software, many are early versions of the Durametric (or other non useful software). Porsche takes a really dim view of people that sell copies what they see as their intellectual property, and tend to come down very hard on them. While a real PIWIS system lease is way outside the price range of all but the most dedicated individuals (well north of $15,000 for the first year), the Durametric software and cable is very good, reasonably priced at about $300, and affords you all future updates as well. Just a thought..............
  16. JFP in PA
    We toyed around with the "man invents tool" approach for this, then settled on using a crows foot at a right angle on an inch pound torque wrench for the nut (no torque setting adjustment required), and a slotted screw attachment adaptor to 3/8 ratchet drive (Sears) on the center bolt, which gives on person sufficient grip and leverage by simply using both hands. Never had a problem with this setup.
  17. JFP in PA
    While Loren is correct on the pad wear sensors, you can also get a MIL warning light if the fluid level gets a bit low, which is both easy to check and remedy by adding fluid if it is down.
  18. JFP in PA
    I believe Loren is correct. It is common for the alarm system to go into fault mode when the battery is changed out.
  19. JFP in PA
    Which "red dash alarm light"?
  20. JFP in PA
    P0446 is the code thrown when the EVAP canister purge air line is blocked. Usually just needs a compressed air blow out of the purge air line. The same code can also be thrown if the EVAP canister itself becomes totally blocked, but that happens very rarely.
  21. JFP in PA
    You could start by posting in the correct forum: Lost Radio Code - post your request here
  22. JFP in PA
    Must be time for new glasses; I misread the model year.................. :eek:
  23. JFP in PA
    Most probable is you have a VarioCam actuator on the way out, there was a recent poster with the exact same issue and it was tracked down to the actuator. On the down side, this can be a bit expensive if a dealer does it; I think his all in bill was around $6K. May be a good time to find a quality indy in your area.................
  24. JFP in PA
    The combination of overheating and water in the oil can be devastating, but without physically being able to look at or test the car, it is impossible to say what damage has been done. You need to do two things, pronto: One, get the contaminated oil out of the engine ASAP, being sure to also change the filter. Two, do not start the car until the cooling system as been properly refilled, and this will mean the use of a vacuum system because you do not want to run the car until the cooling system is ready to function. Then you can start purging the water out of the engine oil system. Put a fresh filter and a full load of oil in it before starting it, then let it run at idle until fully warm, then bring the RPM’s up to about 1,500-2,000 for about 30 seconds. Let it idle again, shut it off and drain the oil and change the filter again. Repeat the oil refill and filter, repeat the warm up and low engine speed run. Shut the car off and pull your dipstick looking for the classic “hot chocolate” look in the oil. If you find it, repeat the oil change again until the oil stays looking like oil and not an emulsion with water. Once the oil stays clean, take the car for a long, but casual drive to get it hot and allow the crankcase evacuation system to remove any remaining moisture. Only time will tell what else may have happened…………..
  25. JFP in PA
    OK, the no end of confusion with the Tip refill stems from the fact that there are two apparent drain plugs on the bottom of the pan. One (usually slightly smaller in size)is acutually the drain, the other is the fill port. The fill port has a riser tube mounted in it that extends upwards into the trans a bit so that as your refill it, the fluid does not come back out until it reaches the top of the tube. The factory refill setup has a flexible plastic end on it that is bent into an inverted "J" shape, so that the tool can be inserted up into the tube and then pops over the top edge so that the new fluid is flowing downwards towards the pan.
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