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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    I don't know where you got your price quote, but you can buy the Stant pressure tester (STA 12270) for $72.38 on Amazon, or $69.78 at ToolTopia. As for Porsche adaptors, there are two; 12016 will test the vehicle and sells for about $40; 12017 will test the cooling system cap, and sells for about $10. I have two of the Stant testers, and an entire case full of adaptors to fit just about anything, and I didn't pay anywhere near $500 for everything.......................
  2. JFP in PA
    That is not necessarily correct, the air bags can deploy when the light is on; the light is just an indication of a fault and does not necessarily disable the entire system. The service manual has a procedure to follow whenever working on, or around, the air bags. It starts with disconnecting the battery for a period, and suggests wearing a grounding strap to prevent building up a static charge and setting the system off. You may want to do a search to get all the info on how to safely do this. Be careful, at close range and airbag can and will seriously injure or even kill.
  3. JFP in PA
    The LN adaptor actually keeps the filter slightly higher up than the stock set up, so ground clearance is not an issue. When installing, be sure to lube the inside and outside o-rings with oil, and torque to spec. When putting on a new spin on filter, be sure to lightly oil the gasket and only tighten the filter 1/2 turn past hand tight (we regularly get question about why the adaptor is coming off with the filter, and it inevitably is because no lube on the gasket and then King Kong tighten it.........). Installed properly, the filter comes off without the adaptor.
  4. JFP in PA
    You can try cleaning it, but I would not hold out a lot of hope.
  5. JFP in PA
    It does not drain the system, only refills.
  6. JFP in PA
    That's weird, as the product is made in Canada...................
  7. JFP in PA
    Do a search, this has been discussed about a zillion times. Connect a maintainer to the lighter socket, connect a battery to the fuse panel, use the emergency cable under the front..................
  8. JFP in PA
    The OEM coolant has a very good life, we have tested factory fills after 7 and 8 years for clarity, pH, freeze points, etc.; and they still looked good. Biggest issue is contamination; the coolant starts to go south if almost anything gets into the system, which is why Porsche recommends only using distilled water with the coolant. Quite often, this shows up as cloudiness in the mixture, which also starts to shift freeze point and pH levels as the additive package dies off. Normally, we recommend renewing the coolant anytime the cooling system has to be opened up for service (water pump, thermostat, etc.). At that time, we use only the OEM concentrate and pre mix it with distilled water (about a buck a gallon at the supermarket) to assure no metal or ionic contamination. This practice has shown very long run life, again as long as nothing gets into the system. Realistically, after five or six years, you will most likely be doing some cooling system service such as the water pump (known for their issues), so I would do it then. If you have had no problems, I would keep an eye on the system test conditions and plan on doing the change out in the same five to six year time frame.
  9. JFP in PA
    The relay is in the panel above the fuses in the left footwell, upper row, second from the left. You can pull the relay and jumper terminals 3 and 5 in the relay panel to simulate an operating relay (pump will be on all the time). The relay itself is a $10-12 item at retail, so I wouldn't put too much time into it.............
  10. JFP in PA
    Relays fail under these conditions due to the excessive load on them when the pump starts to go in and out of cavitations as the fuel runs out; so no, it is not a coincidence. Pulling the battery cable will clear the P1502 code, as will any scanner.
  11. JFP in PA
    Relays sometimes fail by going intermittant (sometimes work, sometimes do not). When this happens, the fuel pressure starts jumping all over the place.
  12. JFP in PA
    What year and model is the car? P1502 it a throttle jacking code on some years, and a fuel pump relay code on other years..............
  13. JFP in PA
    You just discovered why you should not buy stuff like water pumps based upon price alone; you typically get what you paid for…… Rather than fuss with the knock off pump, I would either return it, or throw it in the trash. We have never had any luck with aftermarket water pumps on these cars, and the ones with metal impellers can chew the Hell out of your engine case when they fail, filling the cooling system with metal filings. Not a good thing on an engine with a lot of very small water passages……….. Buy an OEM unit.
  14. JFP in PA
    I would also not hesitate to replace the RMS and IMS while the car is apart. I would also plan on at least a new clutch and throw out bearing while you are at it; with those miles it is probably close to needing it anyway. I'd also check the flywheel for the proper amount of "twist" for the same reason; you really do not want to have to go back in there any time soon, so do it correctly the first time.
  15. JFP in PA
    I cannot say that I have ever encountered a coil pack making a sound.
  16. JFP in PA
    You might be surprised, we have had factory cars come in with this type of complaint and found O2 sensors that were either finger tight, or partially unscrewed. A quick tightening was all that was required to silence the noise.
  17. JFP in PA
    If your fuel pump ever does decide to start whistling, you will be in trouble because they simply do not do that. Are you sure that you properly torqued the new o2 sensors when you installed them? Very small exhaust leaks can whistle. I'd put the car up in the air and cold start it while looking and listening where you think it is coming from..........
  18. JFP in PA
    While I hate to cast aspersions on shops I do not personally know, I really don't like what I am hearing. They have determined that a rod is stretched based upon looking at it? Sorry; no sale................. There are ways to detect rod stretch and twist; looking at them (unless the problem is really dramatic) is not one that I would trust. You should also never be testing the rod for correctness with the bolts finger tight. You rods could be bad, but without measurement data, I would suggest getting them properly checked.
  19. JFP in PA
    It is impossible to say if the rods are good or not by just looking at pictures. They need to be Magafluxed, checked for center line to centerline, twist, bearing and wrist pin bores tested for roundness and size, etc., etc. Any competent machine shop can do that for you. At a minimum, they will need new bolts (you never reuse rod bolts in these engines). If your current machine shop cannot explain why you need new rods, I would think you actually need a new rmachine shop…………
  20. JFP in PA
    You didn't say anything about the battery; load test it, check the terminals for corrosion and clean if necessary, check the cables for resistance, replace if necessary..............
  21. JFP in PA
    If you really wanted to get cute, you can heliarc a fitting into the top of your oil cooler and get temperature and/or pressure readings; or as shown use it to feed an Accusump unit...........
  22. JFP in PA
    How bad they are, and which ones are the worst often vary from car to car, but I am yet to see a coolant temp unit that was anywhere near correct...............
  23. JFP in PA
    Not very................. The sensor section in these car are fine in terms of accuracy, it is the dash displays that are questionable. OBD II/Durametric/PIWIS/PST II all read the sensor.
  24. JFP in PA
    I would connect the Motive unit to the car empty, pump it up to about 10-12 PSIG, and then start squirting or use a small brush to coat each and every one of the connections on the unit with a mixture of dishwashing soap and water; one or more of the connections should start blowing bubbles, and is become the focus to tighten until the bubbles stop. Once the leaks are corrected, the unit will be permanently repaired. Yes, you can go the "two man route" and keep opening, refilling and capping the brake reservoir, but it is time consuming as Hell compared to using the Motive unit, and dramatically increases the possibility of spilling brake fluid on a painted surface. I'd fix the Motive unit and be done with it, we have used Motive units in the shop for years; they work quickly and efficiently, and are by far the best tool for the job.
  25. JFP in PA
    Not really; requires special fixtures and tooling, simply not worth it.
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