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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Yes. LN's owner openly and quite willingly shares the data he has with anyone that asks for it.......................
  2. JFP in PA
    If you are going to use the drain plug, you may as well just pull it and drain the system; you should replace the crush washer every time the plug is loosened, which is why dumping the filter was suggested as an alternative..............
  3. JFP in PA
    Watch which Pentosin, factory specs the CHF 11S (full synthetic) for these cars, and Pentosin tech literature states “If vehicle specifications state CHF 11.S there is no substitute, however, if vehicle specifications state CHF 7.1, CHF 11.S can be substituted.” Pentosin CHF 7.1 is mineral oil based. Pentosin CHF 202 should only be used in 2005 and later Cayennes. A handy Pentosin PDF application guide: http://pentosin.net/...GUIDE3_Rev1.pdf Most NAPA stores now carry Pentosin products................
  4. JFP in PA
    Not really, there is too much stuff (baffles and air separators) in the way; there was a recent post where an owner tried to do this, could not get the hose down to the oil level, but did manage to get the hose stuck in the engine, requiring a flat bed to the shop where the sump cover was removed to get the hose out. If the engine is slightly overfilled, change the oil filter which will remove a bit less than a quart from the system. If it is way over filled, just drain it and start over again. In any case, do not run the car with excessive oil in it, it can get sucked backwards thru the AOS and smoke like Hell, or even lead to a hydro lock and a dead engine. Fix it..............
  5. JFP in PA
    If the PSM system is not cycled, a very tiny amount of old fluid may remain in the control unit, but even that will be flushed out by all the new fluid circulation in the system after a change out and normal usage. Just for a reference point, many dealer's do not cycle the PSM system during a system flush; it simply is not necessary unless air has gotten into the control network, and the amount of oil fluid it extracts is not meaningful. Near 60K would be a worthwhile time frame to do the water pump; which also provides a great opportunity to flush out the old coolant, up date to a 106F thermostat, and add the "S" oil cooler if the car is a base model (best $200 you can spend on these cars).
  6. JFP in PA
    You can use the Motive system on any Porsche; activation of the ABS/PSM system is only needed if you have gotten air into the ABS/PSM control system..................
  7. JFP in PA
    A TSB does not necessarily compel an OEM to do anything or to repair a car free of charge, unless the system involved was already covered under a warranty, and the warranty on the vehicle is still valid. It is an announcement of a change or update in how something is to be done (e.g.: part # XXX is now superseded by part # YYY), it is not a recall, so the new part will not be installed until the old part needs to be replaced. If the vehicle is out of warranty, all the TSB does is change how they would go about fixing it, but the owner would still have to pay the going service rate plus parts
  8. JFP in PA
    If it is the pulley, the pulley is one Hell of a lot cheaper than a replacement alternator.......................
  9. JFP in PA
    I'd also check the alternator to see if it has the de-clutching style pulley, which can also make quite a bit of a racket when it craps out and can leave the alternator unable to put out enough voltage.
  10. JFP in PA
    I'd wager that the codes are for RKAT values would indicate an overly lean O2 codes for banks 1 & 2 at idle.
  11. JFP in PA
    They should not be this tight, go back and recheck the rod and crank sizes as well as clean out the threaded areas.
  12. JFP in PA
    You need to carefully run a thread chaser through all threaded items, followed by a blast for clean compressed air to be sure the threaded areas are totally clean before any assembly is possible. If you have not done this, go back and do it, otherwise you will get all sorts of erroneous torque readings.
  13. JFP in PA
    Did you run a thread chaser through the rod bolt holes first to be sure they are clean?
  14. JFP in PA
    Yes, but it begs a question: Are you torquing them dry or lubed? Logray also has a point about checking the big ends for roundness after bench torquing them, as well as checking the crank.
  15. JFP in PA
    First, I see you used new rod bolts which is good as you should never reuse the rod bolts on these engines, never. Correct specs are 20 nM (15 ft Lb.) + 110 degrees of torque angle.
  16. JFP in PA
    K&N has long been a proponent of using much larger filtration media pore sizes for supposed improved air flow, but coated with oil to try and get back some of the filtration properties. Only problems are that on the dyno, you gain next to nothing, but are allowing a lot of dirt and other debris by and into the engine. When the filter is cleaned by washing, and then recoated with oil, it is difficult to determine the correct amount of oil to use, and often ends up having the excess oil carried on the airstream into the MAF where it can coat the film and cause no end of issues. Not a recipe for either performance or longevity............ Stay with the stock filter.
  17. JFP in PA
    As much as others may protest, these filters are a waste of money. No real gain in power or torque, poorer filtration, a decided chance of oiling your MAF; all at a price substantially higher than the stock unit, which is a fine unit to begin with.
  18. JFP in PA
    Only problem is that this type of test will not find issues like the fuel filter problem described earlier, or a pressure regulator that is on its way out intermittently under load conditions. Granted, if the car cannot pass the static test, there is a problem; but some cars pass the manual test just fine, but then crap out under load, which requires testing it dynamically to spot it...............
  19. JFP in PA
    Keeping the temporary test rig outside the car is purely for safety and to reduce any potential for having to get the smell of gas out of a customer's car. At 120Bar, a leak that would be a small drip on the 50-60 PSIG system turns into a torrent that can literally slice through flesh in a heartbeat; really not anything to be messing with, even if you ignore the fire potential. We are looking at obtaining an suitable electronic pressure transducer to temporarily mount on the engine that would eliminate the need for a line and gauge.
  20. JFP in PA
    Depends upon what we are looking at; sometimes the fuel pressure and delivery is so low at an idle, trying to run it at higher revs becomes a moot point. Other times the idle pressure looks good, but bringing up the RPM’s (free revs) shows a sudden fall off, indicative of a fuel pump or regulator issue. That said, other times we have rigged up cars to take on a road test with the fuel pressure gauge taped to a window for observation purposes while pushing the car to look for a sudden drop off in pressure. We once had an early Boxster come back with a poor performance complaint shortly after a major service; turns out the new fuel filter was bad (internal obstruction caused by loose components) that only showed up with the jury-rigged pressure test setup and a “run it hard” road test. At idle or free revs, it looked fine. We have seen similar things when the fuel pressure regulator gets intermittently problematic. Sometimes you just have resort to “man invents tool” to figure out what to try next……….. I really can’t wait to have to do this kind of testing on one of the newer DFI cars running big time fuel pressure; the test rig line will have to be braided stainless to deal with the pressures (120 bar or about 1,740 PSIG) involved instead of the 35-60 PSIG of the early cars………..
  21. JFP in PA
    These engines are timed using a special tool the holds the cams in the correct positions using the slots on the end while the engine is locked at TDC. Do a search, been covered before..................
  22. JFP in PA
    Typically, the code thrown when the pump cannot supply enough fuel is for an overly lean condition (O2 sensors) or a general misfire (P0300-0306). I would suggest scanning the DME and see if any "pending" codes of that nature show (sometimes the pump is just bad enough to only lean out at very high RPM's, but then the fuel trims drop back in range when you take your foot out of the engine, leaving only the pending codes rather than active ones because the condition did not persist long enough). It would also be very easy to attach a pressure test gauge to the test port on the fuel rail and check both the pressure and delivery rates, only takes about 15 min. shop time.
  23. JFP in PA
    Suggest looking at the fuel system; M96/97's that have fuel delivery volume or pump pressure issues act this way, but only under load. You could just simply be running out of fuel at higher revs...............
  24. JFP in PA
    Just be aware that disabling the airbags and driving the car will most likely result in a MIL light and code, which requires either the PIWIS or Durametric software to clear.................. We like to let the car sit with the battery disconnected for 5 min. before going near the airbags.
  25. JFP in PA
    There is very little difference in sound output between the base 2000 muffler and the S unit; the only real difference is the tips. You would be better off looking for a used PSE, which has a better note without the drone of aftermarket stuff. As for using 911 headers on a Boxster, unless you have a lot of time on your hands, and a good MIG/TIG welder, I would suggest against it. The engine in a 911 is facing the other way around (the engine is behind the gearbox in a 911 rather than in front of it as it is in a Boxster), so one Hell of alot of fabrication would be required to get this working.
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