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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. I don't even want to think what the insurance bill would be for that..................
  2. All well and good, but some do not have a choice in the matter; my customer's employer sent him on a multi year assignment in Asia and he did not want to leave his Ferrari and Turbo Cab for his two teenage sons to "warm up once in a while" to keep the oil circulating while he was 12 time zones away. Both cars survived prolonged storage without incident, which is more than I can say for his sons..........
  3. Not to my knowledge, as far as I know, the last time I checked, these were the old and new numbers: 996-105-180-54-OEM Old style IMS tensioner 996-105-180-56-OEM New style IMS tensioner 996-105-051-58-OEM Old style 1-3 tensioner 996-105-186-01-OEM New style 1-3 tensioner 996-105-053-58-OEM Old style 4-6 tensioner 996-105-188-01-OEM New style 4-6 tensioner That said, I think Logray went through this dance and found out that some parts had been superseded yet again so God (and Stuttgart) only knows what the latest parts are. Suggest giving Jeff at Sunset Porsche (board sponsor) a call, he is usually up on the latest changes
  4. I’m afraid I cannot agree with this. For years, we often store cars for some of our better customers for several months at a time (some have winter and summer homes), during which they are never started. I can honestly say that I have not seen any indications of prolonged storage causing any oil leaks in cars that were not leaking before being put away. We had a Ferrari (F458 Italia) sit for over two years while the owner was overseas, no leaks, and started right up after turning the engine over into oil pressure. Been a couple of years since it was stored, car is doing fine as a “fine weather” daily driver. As for “dry starts”, pull either the fuel pump fuse or relay out of the car, spin the engine into oil pressure, put back the fuse/relay, and start it up, letting the engine warm up before driving. We have been doing this for years, never had an issue…..
  5. Actually, some of the 05's also have the "final solution" IMS, which unfortunately cannot be updated with out a total engine tear down............I hardly call that an "improvement"............... And before you ask, no, there is no way of knowing which IMS is in the car without taking it apart.
  6. Really? Then what would you suggest for the cars that have no dipstick?
  7. The M96/97 engine can blow a puff of oil every now and again and be considered "normal", but not every morning. Sounds like you may have and AOS on the way out; try removing the oil filler cap with the engine running. If it comes off with little difficulty, you are fine; if it does not want to come off, you have too high a vacuum in the sump because the AOS is toast.......
  8. Yes, two: A torque wrench (which you also need for the oil plug) and a cup style filter housing wrench (many sources).
  9. Use clean motor oil; we do it on all these we install. Also be sure that after you torque the adaptor in, you also lube the gasket on the new spin on filter with oil, and then only tighten the spin on filter 1/2 turn past hand tight. You cannot imagine how many people try to torque the filter on to the OEM specs, and then wonder why the adaptor comes off with the filter. Put the lubed filter on as described and you will not have that problem..............
  10. You need to also check that all this hardware supports the signal type that your phone uses as European phones use different frequencies and telecom data protocols.
  11. Reason I asked is that vacuum leaks almost inevitably cause specific codes to appear, which you have not mentioned. You should also note that your MAF had almost no impact on the car's idle conditions. Do the coils and let us know how it panned out.....
  12. Two approaches: 1) Use a smoke gun; or 2) Use a butane or propane source on slow bleed around the suspected areas. Note of caution: Obviously propane or butane are highly flamable, do it outside on a relatively calm day and you should be fine. And NO SMOKING........ Smoke will get sucked into the leaks with the car at idle, showing you where they are visually; propane or butane will cause a sudden jump in RPM's for the same reason.............. What gives you the impression that you have a vacuum leak? Next time you need Porsche OEM parts, give board sponsor Sunset Porsche a call (toll free), they will probably surprise you with their pricing...........
  13. I'm afraid you went in the wrong direction when you tried to epoxy cracked coil packs, which simply ain't gonna work. They will open up again. Pull the coil packs; replace any they look even remotely bad; if they are all original to the car, you may want to just do them all.
  14. The OEM design uses a composite impeller, which seems to harden and become brittle over time, eventually coming apart and strewing impossible to find or remove debris through the cooling system. These "bits" often plug small passages, leading to hot spots that can cause cracking in the heads or case. Obviously, you want to swap out the pump before this starts. Aftermarket pumps use metal impellers, but these start to wobble, hitting the aluminum engine case wall and damaging it; so you don't want to go there either............
  15. Start by taking it to a qualified body shop and getting an estimate for both the damage you can see, and what is hidden. It is nearly impossible to qutoe an accurate estimate based upon two pictures............
  16. AOS= Air Oil Separator IMSB= Intermediate Shaft Bearing Porsche uses water pumps with impellers made of a synthetic material that starts to bread up over extended periods of time. Aftermarket pumps with metal impellers tend to be shorter lived and tear up the block with the impeller gets loose with wear. Stay with the OEM pump, change it and the coolant at least every 4-5 years. At the same time, change your thermostat to a 160F unit.
  17. The injector and the fuel pump are on different electrical circuits, if the pump shorts out, it has no electrical effect on any of the injectors. You have an issue on the injector circuit, not the pump circuit.
  18. I have to agree with Logray here, if there was a problem with the system, it would throw codes and cause running issues. And knowing how much replacement components cost, I wouldn't be randomly applying voltage to see what happens unless the system is already acting up and throwing codes, you may not like what happens next.............
  19. P1225-1230 are all "short to ground in wiring" codes for the fuel injectors by cylinder numbers, so I am not convinced it is a fuel pump issue. You can quickly check the fuel pump by following the factory test procedure for correct pressure and delivery volume by connecting a test gauge to the test port on the fuel rail; but the codes are going to require running electrical tests on the injectors and the injection wiring looking for a short to ground somewhere in the system...........
  20. You should also note that Porsche lists the specific amount of system oil to expect to have to replace when working on these systems; each compomponent has an amount of lubricant retained that needs to be accounted for during the recharge.
  21. Your oil system is normally running under a vacuum condition of about five inches of water; it has to be air tight.
  22. Why are you even considering shipping it, sounds to me like a lovely weekend drive down the Pac Coast Highway is in your future..................A trip a I have some very fond memories of........................
  23. After you select the vehicle, you should see a page that has a left panel that displays various control modules, if tire pressure is supported on that vehicle, it will be listed there. Click on the "+" symbol next to "tire pressure", and it should display what functions are available for the vehicle. If tire pressure is not listed for the vehicle you have selected, it is not supported in the software version that you have. On page 8 of the attached manual, you will see the list of modules supported on a 05-09 997, which shows the tire pressure function: http://www.durametric.com/Durametric_Software_Instruction_Manual.pdf Not all control modules, or individual module functions are supported for all models and years, each update seems to add more, but everything is not yet supported.................
  24. Both the inside and outside door opening handles are mechanical; not electronic. We have seen door handles that did not work when the mechanisim broke or became disconnected, but that did not involve the window or mirrors. We got the door open by dropping a wire down into the door alongside the window to trip the release.
  25. The only way to reset the service indicator is either a PIWIS or Durametric system, nothing else works..............
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