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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Some words cannot possibly be used in the same sentence; "cheap rebuild" and "Porsche" is one example.........
  2. We see this type of variation all the time; you are in spec and fine.
  3. You should never, repeat never, use a pump with a metal impeller in the M96/97 engine. When the bearing goes, and it will, the metal impeller can chew the Hell out of the engine case, possibly ruining it. Stay with the OEM pumps with composite impellers only...............
  4. Spend the $36 and buy the Sir 9025 set, you will be able to fix this problem, as well as any other similar issue on any car you will ever own in the future...............
  5. To relplace the front seals (converter snout and front pump) on a Tip, you need at least three special tools, which are the same ones used on VW & Audi.
  6. If memory serves, a 2001 Boxster will not have any OBC displays until some type of controling switch (e.g.: the fourth stalk or a momentary contact rocker switch) is installed and operational. The Durametric problems sounds like a glitch.
  7. And they are usually some strange color hue, which is weird because they typically cannot be seen..........
  8. I am yet to see any definitive dyno data from a reputable source that shows any after market filter consistently makes meaningfully more HP or torque. Most of what you find is regurgitated marketing hype from one or more manufacturers, which is a lot like the whopping gains some exhaust system and header manufacturer's claim.
  9. We always are concerned about third party DME re flashes potentially causing some type of harm to the DME itself (read expensive to replace), or causing loss of warranty (a real issue) on new cars. This device perplexes me even more because it attaches to the IAT sensor via two wires and supposedly works its magic reprogramming from there rather than the more conventional route. Weird……
  10. Without reading the codes, anything would be a wild guess...................
  11. I would also be one for looking very closely at the engine mounts............
  12. First, I would not switch gear oils; this subject has been covered many times and the OEM fill is still the best route. Besides, if the gear box had a problem like a bad bearing or the like, new oil is not going to fix it. It sounds like you have an engine/drive line vibration that is showing up in the shifter. Problem is that you need to try to spot the source either by having someone else drive the car while you crawl around and try to find it, or run the car on a dyno and look for it. Sometimes these annoying problems are difficult to find and can chew up a lot of shop time in the process simply because there are so many possible candidates..............
  13. I have to believe that the actual source of the vibration is not the shifter itself as the shifter is bolted to the floor and not solidly attached to anything else. I'm afraid you are in for an "Easter Egg Hunt" to find this one..............
  14. +1 on this, you really do not want to get involved with CAN-BUS headaches...................
  15. I can't wait to have to explain the price quote to change the air filters.......................
  16. I am not sure of the numbers for the tools, but both Samstag and Baum list a "3383 double sealing ring installer tool, 3384 Assembly Mandrel, and 3385 Sealing Ring Installer" for VW transmissions..................
  17. The ABS and PSM MIL lights going on with no related codes is often a battery or charging issue; test the alternator's out put and have the battery load tested.
  18. I can fully understand your frustration; I have also had to wait on multiple occasions to get tooling to complete customer’s cars. A couple of suggestions on tools for Tiptronic transmissions: these transmissions were used in VW’s, Audi’s and Mercedes cars; so start scouring the net for tool suppliers for these marquees such as Baum or Samstag and the like. I’d also be searching enthusiast websites for the brands as well; you cannot be the only one that has looked for these tools, you might even be able to locate reasonable priced used tools………..
  19. As the individual you appear to feel “lambasted” you previously, I have to also agree with Loren on the diagnostics for this code; you do not have a bad cat, you have a small wiring harness or connector issue with the sensor behind the three way on bank 1 (cylinders 1-3). Perhaps if you price out a replacement three way cat, you would see the potential advantage of looking at the sensor wiring…………… As for us operators of the havens out here for “spoiled rich boys”, just remember that we at least know what we are doing.
  20. Obviously, you have a leak. I would not be driving the car until you find out what is leaking and get it fixed, it is not going to heal on its own; and a sudden coolant dump could end up seriously overheating a very expensive to replace engine. Get the car looked at.................
  21. No, I have never had to change out the valve, but I have blown a few out over the years.
  22. It really doesn't seem to make a lot of difference which end you put the air in as long as the line is clear.............. Getting at the line and purge air valve under the manifold is not fun, as you have discovered. I have not seen it written up anywhere other than the OEM service manual set.
  23. At least every year if the miles are low, and change it before it gets put away for the winter.
  24. Thought so; glad to be of help..............
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