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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Contact Jeff at Sunset Porsche, there is a $20 retrofit kit to change the lighter over to US specs in about 10 min.; then anything you want to plug in (phone charger, GPS, etc.) will fit. If you have not purchased a maintainer yet, seriously consider the Ctek line (buy it online from a place like Amazon rather than from Porsche). Ctek make one of the best systems out there, much better than $20 Walmart stuff or Battery Tenders. Well worth the money.... "Mr. Pa"..................? Yikes, I must be showing my age! :eek:
  2. JFP in PA
    Cam timing looks fine; if you do not have any vacuum at the oil cap, start by looking at the line that supplies vacuum to the AOS and also check the dipstick and oil filler tubes (they are often disturbed when doing the IMS): you sound like you have a vacuum leak.
  3. JFP in PA
    The car is designed to use the cigarette lighter for the maintainer; there is even a notch in the bottom edge of the driver’s door to allow the cord to come out with the car locked up and the alarm on.
  4. JFP in PA
    If the cats are that bad, you should be able to see it in a scan of the engine; a lot of 996 so-called "cat rattles" have turned out to actually be coming from other sources like heat shielding. I would also move cautiously on what the manufacturer claims for their product’s CA legality.
  5. JFP in PA
    The code is definitely for bank 4-6 and ahead of the three way cat:
  6. JFP in PA
    First, a couple of questions: Why do you believe you need to replace the cats? In all the years of working on this marquee, cat replacement has to be one of the least often occurring repairs. Second, will the aftermarket cats pass your state’s rather draconian inspection requirements? Last time I checked, a visual inspection for any non factory emissions gear is part of the process, so before spending any money, I’d be sure you are not going to be doing this twice to get inspected…………
  7. JFP in PA
    Anytime.............
  8. JFP in PA
    I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I for one am not a big fan of using the Allen screw method to secure the cams while changing the IMS. Besides not really positively securing the cam drives, this method can also move the gear on the rear of the shaft (which is a press fit from the factory), causing the chains to be off axis and cause no end of issues that can only be fixed by taking the engine apart. While some have success with the Allen screw method, some have also had major problems. We pull the green cam plugs and lock the cams down with fixtures while doing one of these upgrades, which eliminates any chance of problems. That said, you should have the engine scanned by the OEM PIWIS, a PST II, or the Durametric software to determine the current camshaft deviation values before moving further. These engines’ are supposed to be +/- 6 degrees; if yours does not fall into that range, the cam timing is out. Normally, we scan all engines inbound for IMS updates both before and after installation to verify everything is as it should be.
  9. JFP in PA
    P0154 is the code for signal interruption on the indicated O2 sensor. While it could be a bad sensor, more often it is a wiring issue. You can electrically test the sensor to eliminate it as a candidate before you start tracing the wiring harness looking for damage or a loose connection.
  10. JFP in PA
    Here ya go..................... http://www.hsy.com.a...ensor_gears.pdf Pelican Parts (amongst others) sells them...........
  11. JFP in PA
    Believe it or not, ATE, the brake fluid people, make a $15 tool to determine which side had the shutter wheel in it…….works every time.
  12. JFP in PA
    I would also check the fuel pressure and the battery/charging system (alternator voltage, load test the battery) as they can also stop the car in its tracks.
  13. JFP in PA
    You can pinch the hoses off while replacing it, but if the coolant is 5 or more years old, it would be a good time to change it.
  14. JFP in PA
    The Optima is a full output and normally BCI rated CCA spiral wound AGM design, highly vibration and temperature resistant, so it actually lives quite long in these cars (7-8 years is not unusual). Optima's were designed to exceed the rigors of automotive type applications. Braile on the other hand is a very lightweight “racing” AGM design, with much lower CCA ratings when tested according to the industry standard BCI procedures. It keeps its weight down by leaving out all the heavy stuff that allows normal SLI (starting, lighting, and ignition) to live in the tough environment of the automotive world. End result is they weigh less, have shorter lives, and often lead to current related problems (dim lights, poor cranking in cool/cold, short lived alternators, electronics issues, etc.). For a race application, they would be fine; they are not designed for the street (regardless of the marketing hype).
  15. JFP in PA
    OK, here's your problem: The base car and S car use two different diameter hard cooling pipes that lead to the forward radiators. At one time, Porsche's "kit" for upgrading the base car to carry the center radiator had special molded hoses that corrected for this anomaly. Unfortunately, those hoses have totally disappeared and now all you can get are the standard "S" hoses which are too big. This has been causing folks to start soldering fittings together to try and make a leak tight fit, or spending a lot of time and money to replace the hard pipes. Fortunately, somebody had come up with a neat solution that is reasonably priced. A Porsche shop called Precision Chassis Works had machined up adaptors that either you can have TIG welded to your pipes, or you can send them your pipes and they will redo them, or they will sell you hard pipes with the adaptors already welded in. All for about $100 (with the exchange for your pipes). http://www.precision...dification.html Ultra clean installed, never leak.
  16. JFP in PA
    2002 was the "official" last year. As with most things Porsche, some had them in 2002, some did not............
  17. JFP in PA
    P0455 is the "large vacuum leak" code for the EVAP system; usual suspect is the gas cap..................
  18. JFP in PA
    Yes, unless he has a replacement engine. 2002 was the last year for the tubes, 2003's did not removable tubes.
  19. JFP in PA
    To change the plugs, and pull, inspect, and re-o-ring the plug tubes (only if they show signs of leakage and they need it) should take a couple hours of shop time plus parts. Actual cash value will depend upon the shop's prevailing hourly rate and local parts pricing. I would also have the coil packs checked out for cracking or deterioration due to their age, any questionable ones should be replaced.
  20. JFP in PA
    We do this for a living so you can imagine how many plugs we change in a year; we use anti seize on all sparkplugs, torque all plugs, and have never had one back out. That really is an "urban legend"................as are claims that your wheels will fall off if you use it on your wheel lugs, which we also do...............
  21. JFP in PA
    The valve at the engine end is more of a check valve than an operational valve (it has no electrical connections); I think you need to look more closely at the EVAP canister end. One thing you can do is hook the car up to a PIWIS or Durametric system and cycle the various valves at the canister end to make sure they are functioning. Have you also checked the seal on the gas cap? They do fail and cause noise as well.
  22. JFP in PA
    Yikes!.............
  23. JFP in PA
    He is talking about the gas filler cap, not the oil cap, which is an EVAP system related issue, which is usually a vacuum leak and why he is seeing stumbling issues when driving.
  24. JFP in PA
    K&N is really no better than the Wix unit, but it is a Hell of a lot more expensive. Mahle is the OEM unit, although some cars have come from the factory with Mann filters in them as well.
  25. JFP in PA
    This is exactly why it is a very good practice to put a small amount of anti seize on the plugs before torquing them in, along with a small amount of dielectric grease on the coil boot.. We have had cars come back for plug service more than eight years after we replaced them, and the old plugs came right out with no drama. A lot of people like to say that using anti seize on the plugs in these engines is not called for, but once you see the grief a seized or galled plug causes, the silver paste suddenly becomes cheap insurance. We have never had a coated plug cause a problem, regardless of age or mileage..........
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