JFP in PA

Could be. In the earlier 986 cars, the five-speed fluid was unique to the five-speed due to the alloys used in the syncros, they may have changed that in the later cars. To be sure, I'd give them a call; Luke and the rest of the parts crew are always very helpful.

Not off the top of my head, so I suggest calling a dealer for the number, and ONLY buying the fluid from a dealer, like board sponsor Sunset Porsche, as there are less than honest aftermarket outlets that claim their fluid is factory when it really isn't.

Yes, the hoses are a pain to remove, but if they are not cleaned out, the car will continue to puff oil smoke until they are...............

The six speeds use a different fluid than the five speeds do, and this is a place where using the factory fill is essential. Porsche uses trans fluids that are made to their specification's (they do not have any GL or API ratings), are fully synthetic products that are long lived and work very well in cold environments. A lot of people have tried aftermarket fluids, but came back to the factory stuff after experiencing problems.

It has to be the Durametric Pro series to activate cruise control; the Enthusiast will activate the OBC, but not the cruise. The Pro does both.

The biggest question is are the metal bits ferrous (can be picked up by a magnet)? If they are, the problem is serious.

The post 2000 cars did not show the outside temp display until either the fourth stalk or some other switching method is installed. Nothing will appear if it is just activated without the stalk.

Rebuilding the engine is questionable; it requires specialized tooling and knowledge, and there are only a small number of shops that can do this well. Same applies to block or cylinder head work. It is also going to be pricey, like in the $12-16K range. Porsche has stopped offering replacement engines for this car, but companies like RND, which is an LN Engineering affiliate, offer complete replacements for around $22K RND replacement engine for 1999 Boxster A used engine can be had for around $3 to 5K from wrecks.

Like a lot of other people, you are focusing on price alone. First of all, looking at anything for a depreciating asset can hardly be considered as an investment, so I cannot see how the term applies.. And sure, there are other cheaper alternatives, and some of them might actually work for some period of time. But the IMS Solution is the only retrofit that has been purposely tested to engine failure during development, and is the only retrofit that can actually be removed from an engine that suffered some other catastrophic failure, such as a snapped connecting rod or a dropped valve, and reinstalled in a replacement engine without any problems. It has been run with the oil feed line disconnected for prolonged periods on a dyno with only minor wear visible, both because of the use of diamond like coating and annular oiling groves on the surfaces.. It is the only oil fed system that successfully eliminated flooding the IMS shaft with oil, which causes other problems. It is extremely well thought out and tested, and to my knowledge none has ever failed. So yes, it cost more than other alternatives, most better designed hardware usually does. A lot of people will tell you that there is no real difference between tools from Harbor Freight and Snap On, but those of us that use those tools to make our living will tell you the differences are profound, and choose accordingly. I personally own two installed Solutions that are years old and have never looked back or regretted choosing them over the lesser alternatives.

Rather than a check list for you, it would be well considered to have a proper pre purchase inspection done by a qualified shop, which would generate a firm list of what needs to be done.

Welcome to RennTech If your engine is original to the car, it should be a dual row bearing, but it never hurts to look before deciding. I would have to say I totally agree with LN's assessment on parts replacement, but I would also add replacing the longer chain paddles as well, and do the oil pump drive replacement at the same time. While several writeups have been done on completing a project like this with the engine still in the car, it is way easier and actually quicker to drop it out first. That gives you much better access, and you can go over everything else like replacing the water pump and installing a low temp thermostat while you are at it. When cam deviation values get this far out of spec, you have to remember it is due to wear, and it is not going to heal all by itself. Do the job right, and you will only do it once and get to enjoy the car for years to come. And if the car was in my shop, I would recommend going with the IMS Solution rather than the ceramic hybrid bearing. Good luck!

"Interpretation' is the pathway to repair, the "definition" unfortunately is usually the very first line of that interpretation, and which most find very limiting, and almost cryptic. Just infuriating semantics, I know, but that is the way the system functions. Example: P0430 / Fault Code 45 -Cat conversion bank 2 - exceeds limit value Possible causes are: Exhaust leak Intake leak O2 sensor not working properly MAF Cat not working properly The full read out for the code would then go through how to evaluate and eliminate each of the possible causes and identify the final suspect(s).

You assume incorrectly. If Autel was licensing what Porsche sees as their proprietary copyrighted data, you would be paying a lot more than $22 a year. Last time I looked, PCNA was charging individuals over $5,000 a year to see that data. Yes, you read that amount correctly. It is also a common misconception that diagnostic tools can "interpret" trouble codes, where interpret means give you a decision tree of "do this, if you get that result, replace this" type information. In reality, OBD II diagnostic's tools only identify the codes involved at the moment, nothing more. Interpretation is then up to the technician and his or her knowledge, or whatever databases they have available to them. The ONLY Porsche diagnostic tool I am aware of that can both read the code, AND provide you with decision tree "interpretation" pathways to repair the problem is the almighty PIWIS, which is available to anyone willing to pay the $20,000 annual lease to have it at your disposal. Even in automotive diagnostics, "you gets what's you pays for".................

Welcome to RennTech The four stalk itself does not get programmed, but the dash does. If you have access to a Porsche specific scan tool like the Durametric Pro, you can quickly check to see if the cruise system is activated or not.

Re read my post directly above yours...............

People need to recognize that plumbing and wiring in cars of all makes try to make use of whatever space is left available, and this is the type of problem that can result. Even wiring harnesses, which are very flexible, can be a major pain to replace because of what is in the way. If it makes you feel any better, I recently did a full brake hard line replacement on a major American sedan due to corrosion like yours. We obtained a full stainless steel pre formed hard-line kit specifically designed to fit the car for around $300. We replaced the two rear hardlines, and the driver's side (US) front with the stainless-steel tubes in about an hour. The front passenger's side line was a nightmare fit like yours; we ended up dropping the engine, transmission, and their mounting cradle about 18 inches out of the car to snake the last line into place. The line in question dropped down from the master cylinder, then up over the transmission tunnel, around under the HVAC box, and then down to the wheel area. Being preformed to fit exactly where the original one was located, and stainless steel not being particularly flexible, there was simply no other way to get it into the space it had to go. We could have cut the line into sections, but too many connections in brake line are a recipe for leaks and would cause the vehicle to fail our version of your MOT here. So out came the engine and transmission cradle. Having been in this business longer than I'd care to admit, I will say that there is a list of cars whose designers I would like to look up and beat the loving crap out of them.........🤬

Welcome to RennTech You cannot even see the brake line until the fuel tank is out of the way, and to get the tank out, the rack has to come out, the front diff, etc. etc. People seem to forget that the line is pre bent to exactly conform to the bulkhead, it is not just straight tubing. And the front trunk floor pan does not just "unbolt". This is not a minor project.....

Board sponsor Sunset Porsche is always a good place to start.

All four wheels use the same sensor: 996-606-406-00, about $143 each at retail. And be cautious about buying "factory" items from Pelican, they are known to substitute non factory parts as "OEM".

Diagnostic code information, just like everything else they developed, is considered intellectual property by PCNA, and as such cannot be published or otherwise used without the specific written permission, and most likely payment, to Porsche. If Autel (or any other aftermarket diagnostic tool manufacturer) included that information in their tool, Porsche would most likely sue them out of existence. This has been the problem with every OEM since the EPA forced OBD II standards on them in 1996.

Durametric has not done that.

If it was open when you applied the pressure, probably not, but the only way to know for sure is to close up the system and either see if it holds vacuum or pump it up with a true system pressure tester to 18 psig and see if it leaks down.

Who is currently getting some holiday beach time in SC, but always willing to help, even long distance! The axle boots are a messy, but otherwise easy DIY project. As you can only get one CV joint off the shaft, you need to pull the axles and disassemble them, and after a cleaning, repack the CV’s and slide on the new boots and boot clamps. Several companies sell boot kits and CV grease as kits, but you can also get them from board sponsor Sunset Porsche as well. This project has been; written up on multiple sites When I hear about electrical gremlins like your windows and top in a car that has been in storage, first thing I think of is rodent damage on the wiring harnesses, or a bad electrical section on the ignition switch. I’d start by accessing both the window and top switches and checking them for power when the key is on; if not, a tool like the Power Probe which can apply fused power to a circuit to see if it works will tell you if it is the harness going to the device is intact. If jumping the switch activates the device, you have a power supply problem, which points back to the ignition switch. Fortunately, the electrical section of the ignition is cheap (a VW/Audi part) and again a popular DIY project that has been written up multiple times. For a car that has been sitting, I would plan on replacing every fluid (oil, gear oil, brake fluid, anti freeze, power steering fluid). All are popular DIY items, and it is always a good idea to replace everything that you do not know the age of.

First of all, you should never apply high pressure air to any cooling system; your Boxster’s system was designed to see a maximum of 18 psig pressure, anything higher could blow out seals and gaskets anywhere in the system, and even fracture the end tanks on the radiators. . This is exactly why cooling system pressure testers use hand operated pumps and not compressed air. Bad idea.

You are in LA and 200 miles from a dealer? Seems a bit odd. In any case, the problem is one of various systems communicating with each other, so it may not have any impact on drivability.