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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. I believe the Actron part is the shrader adapter 180-000-1299 (About $3), but as I am away from the shop at the moment, you might want to give Actron a call to confirm that.
  2. Or the LN spin on filter adaptor...................
  3. Actron has a Pro model fuel pressure unit (CP 7838 about $50) that you can get the $3 adaptor for and does the job perfectly.
  4. Any shop with a pressure tester and the correct adaptors can check out your system in about 15 min.; that said, expect the dealer to charge you at least an hour labor. Find a good independant and have them check the system out, it will save you money......
  5. WVicary is correct, you need to pressure test the system first as it is not uncommon to have more than one leak point. Throwing parts at the car is the wrong way to go................
  6. Your data looks confusing; if you let the car idle, does the deviation values remain at a constant number? You should also be able to see a graphic showing both cam's positions at idle, and look something like this...................
  7. WVicary is correct, it is an absolute bear to clean oil out of the cooling system. We have had to run water and a cleaning compound in the system multiple times, followed by multiple changes of clear water before it was clean. Not expensive, but very time consuming.............
  8. Passed away at 89, one of the true giants................ http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/12/sports/carroll-shelby-builder-of-cobra-sports-car-dies-at-89.html
  9. Going "backwards" from 3.6 VarioCam+ is just that, a move in the wrong direction. Either a rebuild or a bone yard replacement would be a much better bet, and would help retain the car's real value as well. Plus a smaller and lower HP engine would be very noticeable performance wise.
  10. Brembo no longer has the hybrid kit (or parts for the rear) available.
  11. Try running the same part number past an Audi or VW dealer; some (but not all) of these are common to those cars as well, and much cheaper from a non-Porsche dealer.............
  12. I would bet that the other side sensors are on their way out, which is why I asked who did the tests. Age wise, your car is in the "zone" where the batteries in the wheel sensors start to crap out, which weakens the signal strength and the receiver stops seeing them. A sensor tester held near the wheel will still see them, but weakly, giving the false impression they are fine. If you hold the tester close, you get a signal, but if you back away slightly, it disappears (it is an RF signal). If I am correct, the sensors need to be replaced (the battery is not replaceable). This requires dismounting the tires, spending about $100 per wheel for sensors, remounting and balancing the tires. And you can thank all the morons on the road that will not take five min. to check the air pressure in their tires once a month for the fact the federal nannies had to force the OEM's to install these totally unnecessary, expensive, and annoying systems in all cars...............
  13. First of all, you have a 987, not a 986, so this is posted in the wrong forum The TPMS is two part system, senders in each wheel, and a receiver in the dash; so it has to be one of the other. Who tested the system (dealer or indy)? Reason I ask is the type of tire sensor tester matters..........
  14. The generic style code readers that AZ uses will not even see a Porsche airbag; he needs either a PIWIS or the Durametric system......
  15. Yes, I just tried it in the shop. The old style Porsche maintainer (small black box style) has a stepped lighter plug that works after the retrofit; the Porsche branded Ctek units were sold after Porsche stopped bringing in the cars with the European DIN lighter and went to the "US spec" lighter, so they will fit also. That said, I would go with a non-Porsche branded Ctek unit long before I would use the older style Porsche unit; the Ctek is a much more sophisticated system that is superior to the old style Porsche "charge-o-mat", which is probably why even Porsche stopped using it.
  16. You want number 2.......................
  17. Do a search, been covered many times................. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/29295-broken-turn-signal-lever/
  18. Weird. Most of the ones we see are due to very high mileage (200K+) or some type physical damage to the cat itself.
  19. "5 sets of cats"? I don't think we have replaced that many cats in total on all the cars we service combined over the years.......... What in the Hell are you doing (just out of curiosity)?
  20. All of Porsche's front radiators are vulnerable due to the mounting methods and the lowness of the nose of these cars. Just running the nose gently up on a grass hump or a parking curb is enough to break them. I know of no functional way to prevent this other than to protect the nose of the car from any impacts. I’d also forget about trying to repair the damaged radiator; we have seen a lot of attempts at this, but very few successes. Considering how much fun it is to get them out, it is better to simply lick your wounds and replace it. Your cheapest source for a new unit is probably going to be board sponsor Sunset Porsche, unless you can find someone that has one and does not need it. As for refilling the system, best method is the Uview vacuum filling system; it is the exact same system the dealer’s use, only about 1/5 the price Porsche would charge for it. With this tool, it is a 5 min. process to refill the system without any issues.
  21. Glad it worked out; most people do not realize the O2 lines on the display are supposed to move back and forth.
  22. Fuel pressure and delivery is done by connecting a pressure gauge with a side flow port to the test port on the fuel rail (looks a lot like a brass capped tire valve). If the fuel pump is bad, the pressure will not be consistent, or in the correct range. Entire process takes about 15 min. to do.
  23. Be sure test the pump pressure and delivery as well, sometimes these pumps start locking up when they age, shutting off the fuel supply intermittently.
  24. pH should be in the 9.5-10.0 range; coolant should be changed when it falls below 9.0; be cautious about how accurate test strips are, they change with age.
  25. Check your fuel pump for pressure and delivery rates, also look at the fuel pump relay.
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