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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. From time to time, someone shows up claiming to have an "inexpensive PIWIS clone", usually from China. The funny bit is that the ones that actually work (many simply do not work at all) turn out to be using a ripped off copy of an old Durametric system. With Porsche charging near-housing prices just to lease a PIWIS for a year, people should both be glad that there are entrepreneurial firms like Durametric out there, and supportive of the fact that provide quality products at reasonable prices.
  2. There are several, the only three you really need are the Learning Code, the Immobilizer Code, and the DME programming code. With those, you can do all the programming you will probably ever need.
  3. They look somewhat like greenish rubber bands. I would not reuse these gaskets; fortunately, they are relatively inexpensive.
  4. Have you tried removing the oil cap while the car is running? If the AOS is in good shape, you should be able to remove it without much force, if it takes a lot, the AOS is failing. There is ususally a slight oil film in the connections you mentioned, but not a lot.
  5. When we do a PPI on a car, we tend to list aftermarket lights, and particularly the headlights, as “deduct” items. Sure, the LED’s “look cool” and all, but from a maintenance standpoint aftermarket lights can be a real headache. We have seen everything from electrical issues (including damaged wiring harnesses), brake lights that don’t work properly, strange turn signal issues, to noise in the car’s audio system; and very often replacement parts for these lights are nearly nonexistent or very hard to obtain. We have recently seen some replacement LED headlight assemblies that looked like they were HID projector’s, but were actually halogens that put out less light than the factory units; and leaked water into the unit when the first time the owner washed the car. Sometimes even the installation instructions that come with some of these products are incomplete, make no sense, or are dead wrong. So yeah, they look nice, but sometimes at a cost.
  6. The declutching pulley is very obvious when you look at it because it has a really strange looking fastener that attaches it to the alternator (it is a pair of 12 splined shaft and fastener that requires a special tool to undo, costs about $20 online) I can't help you on the bearings or brushes as we send the units that need them to a local alternator rebuild shop and they install them. You might want to check out similar shops near you for parts as they would have the best handle on what is available.
  7. The basic “rule of thumb” for any make alloy engine is to never allow them to overheat because it causes all sorts of issues such as cylinder head cracking or worse. Does not matter if it is a Honda or a Ferrari, you lose that drive belt and can’t fix it where it stands, call for a tow…………. And all makes of cars break the belts, not just Porsche's.
  8. These engines really hate being over heated; you should have called a tow truck.
  9. It looks like you have a failing alternator, or at least a dying voltage regulator. Car should have around14V running and high twelve’s off.
  10. The voltage regulator is common to VW, Audi, MB, and even some Fords; do not buy a replacement regulator from Porsche, the VW unit (same part numbers) is less than half what Porsche dealers get. Do a search, lots of info on this. If yours has the declutching front pulley, that is also available from multiple sources.
  11. There is a schrader style port (looks like a tire air valve stem with a brass cap) on the fuel rail by the intake manifold that is used for fuel system testing, very neat and clean way to do it.
  12. Both the delivery rate and pressure are measured at the fuel rail port where the guage attaches.
  13. That is significant, to the tune of about 41% below what it should be. Try the filter first, but it may be the pump itself.
  14. With enough money, time, and welding equipement, anything is possible. Question becomes “Is the view really worth the climb?” Some time back, an advetursome sort tried to put a late model 3.8L Turbo engine into an early Boxster; before he was anywhere near finsihed, he had already spent more than it costs to buy a new Turbo car. Along with all the elelctronics, you will need to replace the entire fuel system as your car runs around 50 PSIG, while the DFI motor is running close to 1700 PSIG……
  15. It is a pressure gauge with an adaptor. Actron has a similar system for about $50 or so.
  16. The only way to know if the correct amount of oil and gas is in the system is to remove the gas with a freon capture unit, which will pump it out and measure it; and then remove several mechanical system components and pour out the oil and measure it (Porsche publishes a reference table for doing this). Neither is exactly a "backyard" DIY project as the system would then need to be correctly reassembled, evacuated and recharged with gas and oil before it would work again. If the system is working properly, leave it alone; adding too much oil or gas can be disasterous.
  17. +1; we have seen a lot of people try to repair these things, no one had done it to date.......... Replace it before it fails and strands you, or causes an overheat.
  18. Go 50/50, and only use distilled water. The ratio is not just for freeze protection, but corrosion protection as well.
  19. If the VarioCam was acting up, it would throw specific codes, which you do not have. I would still look at the fuel system and run a pressure and delivery rate check.
  20. OK, 1385 is the knock sensor on bank 4-6; not surprising as all the other codes are all cylinder misfires. Could be bad fuel, but I would pull the plugs and have a look at them as something is not right. That said, I would also recheck the 1385 code and make sure it isn't a 1585, which could be a fuel starvation issue and time to check fuel pressure and delivery for a bad fuel filter or failing fuel pump, which would also cause misfire codes.....
  21. You most likely have the last revision IMS assembly in you replacement engine. The good news is that numerically, that design has probably had the fewest IMS failures to date; the bad news is that they still are subject to IMS failure. Any engine with an intermediate shaft is at some level of risk from the unit failing. Porsche “fixed” the issue in 2009 with the 9A1 design engine, which does not use and intermediate shaft………….
  22. It may be low freon, but the question becomes why is it low (if it actually is low). Unless you have the correct equipment, this is a project better left to the pros......
  23. The computer for the alarm system is under the seat and often goes nuts when a car floods. You can take the unit out and dry it and all will be well, and then reinstall it inside a plastic bag to protect it in the future. But still be sure to clean out the drains.
  24. That being the case, be sure to read up on the correct procedures for doing this; in many ways, Porsches are unlike other engines, and you don't want to create additional problems.
  25. What you really need to weigh is the total number of the installed based vs. number of units that have failed. LN has by far the largest installed base, with a very small number of failures, most of which were traced to poor installation techniques or the destruction of the IMS bearing by debris from other engine component failures. Because of the engine design, even the upgraded IMS bearing needs to be considered a “wear item” like brake pads, a water pump, or a clutch; something you expect to have to replace periodically.
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