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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    11S is available again, even at most NAPA stores.................
  2. JFP in PA
    I believe Loren is correct; the problems with the “under the car” short shifter was that it was “infinitely adjustable”, which ended up meaning there was one way to install it correctly and an infinite number of ways to screw it up. Because of the way it worked, it also had multiple fasteners and adjusters that tended to come loose, usually at the most inappropriate time. Not one of B&M's better moments..............
  3. JFP in PA
    Check here http://www.permoveo....he/Default.aspx I have to agree with Loren on that code. The factory OBD II diagnostics manual code lists for a 2001 Boxster does not use that number, nor does any Porsche using the 5.2 or 7.2 DME. I do not know where that site gets its info from, but I would recheck the car with a proper system to confirm the actual code(s)
  4. JFP in PA
    Yes.
  5. JFP in PA
    There is a small threaded bushing in the rear mounting flange of the alternator that moves slightly forward when the bolt is tightened, clamping down on the bracket. If you thread a bolt into that side (item #7 in Loren's DIY), leaving it loose, and then tap the bolt with a dead blow hammer, the bushing will release the mount and the alternator can be removed (after removing the bolt). You can see the bushing in this photo on the rear "ear" of the alternator, near the Bosch box:
  6. JFP in PA
    Replacing the M96 water pump has been written up on multiple sites, with some variations due to model year, etc. It is pretty straightforward. Do a search, you will probably get more data than you really need…………
  7. JFP in PA
    Sounds like the pump is already dead and needs to come out. Do not run the car in this condition as the pump could fail and cause catastrophic engine problems.
  8. JFP in PA
    Just about everyone on Earth, except for Porsche, sells the voltage regulator; it is a common inexpensive part number to Audi, VW, MB, and even some Fords. Replacing the regulator is usually an easy fix for many alternator issues short of bad bearings, and one Hell of alot cheaper as well. If nothing else is wrong with the alternator, just do the regulator.
  9. JFP in PA
    Without the reading the codes, it is always a bit of a crap shoot; but your car is displaying the type of faults often associated with either a battery or alternator issue. Get the car scanned for codes, have the battery load tested and check the voltage of the alternator under load, you could just have a voltage regulator on the way out (pretty common).
  10. JFP in PA
    Just in passing, if you do not know what brand is in the trans, drain it and fill it with the factory gear oil. Many of the complaints we have heard about using aftermarket gear oils involved strange noises; it may not be the entire issue, but it could also be your cheapest solution to at least some of the problem. You should also stay away from light weight flywheels unless you intend to rebalance the entire rotating assembly; lightweight flywheels do not dampen any of the rotating assembly’s harmonics, but a dual mass will.
  11. JFP in PA
    With enough money, welding equipment and duct tape, anything is possible. That said, what you are suggesting would overly complicate a normally completely functional A/C system, as well as significantly reducing the car’s resale value……
  12. JFP in PA
    If the AOS is functioning correctly, there should be a low vacuum signal at the oil fill cap, in the range of 5 inches of water. Any higher and the AOS has to be changed as it is on the way out. Most shops have a modified oil cap that connects to either a low range vacuum gauge, or a slack tube manometer for checking the AOS; the slack tube manometer is something anyone can jury rig using some clear flexible tubing and a ruler for the purpose.
  13. JFP in PA
    Start by checking all the heavy power leads from the battery to the starter and the battery to ground connections, they are a common corrosion point that causes no end of hard to find electrical issues. Even if the cables ends are clean, check the cables for resistance, there should be almost none; if you find resistance, replace the cable(s). All of this can be done with the engine still in the car. You should also be running in the high 13 to low 14V range with the car idling.
  14. JFP in PA
    Both, the brakes suffer due to lack of vacuum (provides the "power" in power brakes) caused when the AOS craps out, the smoke is oil being pulled into the engine through the failed AOS. It is also why you have a rought idle.
  15. JFP in PA
    Low vacuum because of AOS failure. Try starting the car and let it idle; while it is running, try to remove the oil filler cap. If it is very hard to remove, your AOS is toast and has to be replaced (do not drive the car in this condition as you could easily hydraulic the engine). Do a search; this is a DIY project................
  16. JFP in PA
    Yes, that looks like a sensor, as you can clearly see the locking/sealing nut on the stem. Just about every type of shop has TPM system tools these days, particularly tire shops. Many will test for little or even no charge as replacing just one of the sensors is going to generate a lot of revenue for them......
  17. JFP in PA
    Try: Denny's Driveshafts 1189 Military Road Kenmore, New York 14217 They balance.
  18. JFP in PA
    Not to sound pedantic, but have you checked the bulb?
  19. JFP in PA
    I'll repeat what I said about a week ago in reference to an equally bogus PIWIS system............. "From time to time, someone shows up claiming to have an "inexpensive PIWIS clone", usually from China. The funny bit is that the ones that actually work (many simply do not work at all) turn out to be using a ripped off copy of an old Durametric system. With Porsche charging near-housing prices just to lease a PIWIS for a year, people should both be glad that there are entrepreneurial firms like Durametric out there, and supportive of the fact that provide quality products at reasonable prices." How about instead you support the people that support us.............
  20. JFP in PA
    That is for the in-tank pump (which is also different on the DFI cars), the mechanical high-pressure unit has been an issue and quite a few have been replaced under warranty. No idea what that sells for as no one has had to buy one yet due to warranty coverage, but knowing Porsche, I'll bet it has an eye-watering price tag.............. We have heard (second hand) that the mechanical pump driven off the cams is in the $1K neighborhood, but have no confirmation of that.
  21. JFP in PA
    Another possible is the fuel pressure regulator either defective of losing vacuum signal.
  22. JFP in PA
    That may make the P1284 code definition "Prepare to spend serious money" as the fuel pumps in the 2010 997 are going for north of $600......................
  23. JFP in PA
    RFM is correct, that wheel does not look like it has a TPM sensor in it (the tire valve stem is black rubber instead of threaded metal). Any dealer, or good indy, will have a TPM sensor testing tool and be able to confirm that. Be willing to bet the previous owner tried to disable the TPMS when they put those wheels on the vehicle......
  24. JFP in PA
    "Castrol Sports Edge" or "Castrol Pro Edge" are unfortuantely not available anywhere in North America due to the addtive package it uses. You sometimes see it "grey market" on the internet selling for $75-100 for a 5 liter bottle. I seriously doubt that BMW would be selling it as the EPA would be having a fit if they did.
  25. JFP in PA
    That is nonsense, the alternator was bad.
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