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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    I, for one, would love to see a translation from Kanji. If this is correct, and from a legitimate Porsche authority, it would be the first time I have ever seen their acceptance that there really is an IMS problem. Most dealers here will not discuss the matter, and many still claim that it is not possible to update the pre 2006 IMS without disassembling the entire engine (PCNA's "official" position).
  2. JFP in PA
    Most of the start up related noises in the M96/87 engine family have typically been related to the cam drives. Some have had cam follower (read lifter) problems, but that is a noise that does not always go away. Do a search on the subject of the paddle wear pads, it is a common item that causes noise, cam deviation values out of spec, and debris in the oil filters. Sometimes they even totally fail:
  3. JFP in PA
    Wear pads on the chain tensioner paddles................
  4. JFP in PA
    When the system has settled (everything has switched off after about 1 hour), you should see 40-60 mA. Here's a list of what various systems draw when active, and the typical current draw vs. time:
  5. JFP in PA
    I'm not sure it should do that, it is supposed to only run at start up to aid cold start emissions...........
  6. JFP in PA
    Simple: The radio draws current to retain your personal settings (saved stations, etc.).
  7. JFP in PA
    There are several possible sources of small plastic bits, including sealant, cam tensioner paddle wear pads, seals, etc. The most common are the wear pads (black or brownish) and sealant (brown or green). There is no way to confirm the seal condition of the IMS without pulling the trans, clutch, and flywheel out and then pulling the IMS cover after locking the engine down; and at that point you may as well just replace it with the LN unit. I would not be overly concerned about the few bits you have, this is a fairly common find during an oil change.
  8. JFP in PA
    Changing out the voltage regulator has been written up a couple of times, it is a simple DIY project. The regulator is inside the back of the alternator. In the US, most auto parts stores will also happily test the alternator out of the car for free as well. For a system in good shape, we typically look for idle voltages of 14V or slightly higher. When the regulator or diodes fade, we usually see voltages in the mid 13's or lower, which is starting to get weak when you consider that there is no real current draw (head lights, stereo system, etc.) on the alternator during the test. Often, just switching on a couple of these systems will pull the voltage down further, which is not good.
  9. JFP in PA
    Most likely a bad casting, or something possibly kicked up and hit it. You can find an exploded view of it in Porsche's PET, along with all the associated parts. I would also suggest locking down the engine as if doing the IMS bearing, and adding the LN oil pump drive for the reason stated. Not a difficult DIY, but it is going to take some time, effort, and specific fixtures (to lock the cams) to do it. The price I used was from Loren's latest list, but if you can get for less at Sonnen, by all means do so. I would also look carefully at the oil pump, they sometimes show some wear depending upon miles, etc.; so this would be an excellent time to update the oil and water pumps, as well as the thermostat while you are in there.
  10. JFP in PA
    Looks like #996 107 012 58, recently updated to 996 107 012 60 which is the main housing casting for both the oil and water pumps. If it is, this is going to be a fun job to replace............... And it goes for about $465.
  11. JFP in PA
    Tis the season for batteries to start crapping out. Have the battery fully charged and load test it, also check the specific gravity of the electrolyte. Most auto parts stores will do the load test for free if you lack the necessary equipment.
  12. JFP in PA
    First of all, your car should have a “normal” parasitic draw of 40-60 mA with everything off and the key out of the ignition (a common testing mistake), and you are obviously way over that. That said, you should also note that some systems stay active for a short period after the car is first switched off, so you sometimes need to let it sit for a short period before testing. Try letting the car sit for a bit, key out, and try the current draw test (ammeter between the disconnected + battery cable). I am also circumspect about the alternator voltage, 13.8V seems a bit low. Could just be a voltage regulator on the way out, but could also be corrosion on the battery cable ends, an easy DIY fix. You may want to have both the battery load tested and the alternator tested (in the US, most auto parts stores will do this for free). If the voltage regulator is going bad, you can buy a replacement from any VW or Mercedes dealership; they use the same part number and are much cheaper than Porsche for the same part.
  13. JFP in PA
    If memory serves, ther was a TSB on the 996 for ground wire corrosion issues, you might want to start there as a bad ground will make the car hard to start when hot and reduce the battery charge as well. The ground cables can be tested for resistance with a multimeter.
  14. JFP in PA
    The article has merit as the plastic impeller blades in the pumps tend to degrade and break up over time, spreading plastic bits into the cooling system that create local hot spots long before the pump itself starts to crap out.
  15. JFP in PA
    Interesting comment, I've never seen a multimeter that did not do DC; we currently have four different brands (and price point) meters in the shop, they all do DC.........
  16. JFP in PA
    The P0455 code is for a problem with the tank pressure sensor measurment, usually a classic "bad or missing" gas cap code. I could also be other EVAP ventilation system lines leaking, but I would get rid of the aftermarket cap first......
  17. JFP in PA
    If the 0301 code was the only one, it will go out by itself with enough driving. You could also take it to one of the auto parts stores advertising free use of a scanner and clear it as well.
  18. JFP in PA
    Glad to be of help................
  19. JFP in PA
    When the AOS fails, the vacuum level jumps from around 5 inches of water at the oil fill cap at idle to over 20 inches. If you do not have the equipement to check this, and the cap is very difficult to nearly impossible to get off at an idle, you need an AOS. The fact that you are also seeing smoke is a second indication. Do the AOS and be done with it before it totally craps out and strands you, or worse..............
  20. JFP in PA
    Simple Green has a published pH of 9.5-10, hardly "pH balanced".............
  21. JFP in PA
    While Loren is spot on about the codes, I can say that we have not found an aftermarket gas cap that works as well as the OEM units. Eventually, the Stants and other major brands tend to start throwing codes associated with vacuum leaks in the fuel vapor recovery system. We had several customers replace the OEM caps with aftermarket locking units, all of which eventually started to throw codes. Putting on an new OEM unit fixed the problem. Get the codes read and report back, if it is one of the codes associated with a gas cap leak, getting the OEM unit is a cheap, easy, and near permanent fix.............
  22. JFP in PA
    You have to be very careful about the pH of the wheel cleaners you use as they can really tear up the clear coat on the wheels if you use the wrong thing. P21S has a long standing reputation for both cleaning the wheels and not damaging the clear coat.
  23. JFP in PA
    "...and he said the discs were copies of the original Porsche ones" seems to sum it all up.....................
  24. JFP in PA
    We do not use anything but the OEM pumps; the aftermarket units have proven to be too unreliable. Sunset should be able to set you up with a good deal on the OEM unit, ask for Jeff in parts. The lot temp thermostat is a great upgrade to do at the same time, we have use the LN Engineering version with great results.
  25. JFP in PA
    First, let me say that listening to sound clips has proven to be the least useful way to diagnose these problems. With both the quality and volume all over the place, it becomes very hard to discern any useful information. We have had customers email us sound clips, only to find something completely different from our analysis of the sound clip when the car arrived at the shop. The best way to check out what is making the noise is to pull the cover behind the seats and remove the serpentine belt, then rotate each component looking for noise, wobble, or other signs of distress. Quite often, if the water pump is on the way out, you will find evidence of a slight leak from the vent hole under the pump as well.
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