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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. That does not sound good.............
  2. No, it is not "OK" as delivered, everything needs to be dynamically balanced as the pistons alone will throw everything out of balance, plus the factory balance ain't all that swift to begin with...........
  3. Are both of the cam locking slots sitting dead vertical when the engine is at TDC? If not, at least one cam may be out of time. This is exactly why we run a cam deviation value check with the Durametric software before and after doin an IMS......
  4. If you have the full LN kit, it should contain the following: If you note that there is a five chain and a three chain cam tool (one of each), and that the LN instructions (item #6) says that if you have both tools, you can modify one so that both cams can be locked. Get a hack saw and a file and have at the three chain cam tool and turn it into a five chain tool..................that simple. If the kit you bought did not contain both, either try LN to see if they will sell you another one, or get a local fab shop to knock one out.
  5. A lot of that has to do with were you buy them; OEM filters are expensive, quality aftermarket units (e.g.: Wix/NAPA Gold) are about $16 and probably better made than the OEM units............
  6. We use the LN procedure, locking the engine at TDC first (absolutely critical), locking the cams, and pulling the three tensioners (we remove them as they are quite often shot and need cleaning or replacement anyway); never had a problem with the shaft not being centered for the bearing removal and reinstall. We get calls from IMS DIY’s gone badly; and most of them, and in particular the ones that have really “gone off the reservation” involve using the setscrews. The ones that involved the LN procedure that went bad happened because someone decided to skip a step of two and ended up in deep yogurt as the direct result. This process is not difficult, but it does require two things: some special tools and the ability to read and follow the directions………….
  7. I’m going to probably start a firestorm here, but here goes: Stop following Wayne’s procedure’s and download a copy of the LN/Flat Six instructions: http://www.lnenginee...imsretrofit.pdf We have seen too many issues with using the set screw approach on DIY installs. The LN/Flat Six procedure works every time, if you follow them to the letter. I know that Wayne was trying to come up with a cheaper alternative method and component’s, but the rear gear on the IMS shaft is a press fit and can be moved inwards by the set screws. When that happens, it cannot be re-positioned without taking the engine apart. You also need to remove at least three of the chain tensioners or the shaft will pull off to one side, severely hampering the installation of the new bearing.
  8. Problem is that while in theory, a smoother transition plenum should have a positive impact on intake flow, cylinder filling, etc.; in actuality, the larger questions are at what point in the RPM curve does this improvement occur and how large an impact does it make? Unfortunately, many of these devices do little until the engine is at the far end of the RPM curve, so whatever “gains” there are to be had are often minimal under everyday driving characteristics. Some intake mods also have the effect of yielding some level of HP gains at extreme RPM’s, but also move the torque curve in such a manner as to have a negative impact on the low to mid RPM range drivability of the car. Same type of thing can occur with adding larger diameter throttle bodies; some increase seems to improve performance; but going too large tends to slow air velocities in the intake to the point that negative things begin to happen. These engines are a “system”; changing just one component does not always result in a positive, regardless of how much it costs. This is why such alteration’s need to be accompanied by several dyno pulls; as with most things in life, not everything works well together…………
  9. As we rarely see immobilizer issues unless they get wet (and even then most can be dried and recover), what is causing you to kill so many? You also need to realize that exactly what you are asking for is what a thief would need to steal your or any other Porsche out there, so I suspect a "public" response will not be forth coming...............
  10. There is nothing wrong with the stock style filter, and they never oil the MAF. The K&N fiter really adds nothing other than expense.....................
  11. The tool in the illustration is actually one of Porsche's nearly unobtainable $1,000 special tools. :eek: We use a long, thin "electrician’s screw driver" that we found at Sears, works fine.
  12. The M96 engine is not very prone to killing head gaskets, more often it is a head cracking issue. Might also be a good idea to pressure test the cooling system when you either compression test or do a cylinder leak down on the block.
  13. Your leak test looks good; I would tend to agree that the system is tight. Having done a couple clean outs after non fatal intermix (oil cooler failures), it takes a lot of time, system cleaner, and hot water to clean out a system properly. You may just be seeing crud from the cooling system because someone used the wrong type of coolant at one time and the system is mucked up, or the car had an earlier non fatal intermix that is still coming out. The UV dye will tell the story, if it does not show up in the coolant, there is no intermix.
  14. Unexpected voltage swings can cause several of the MIL's (ABS, PSM, etc.) to go on for no apparent reasons and without throwing an actual code. Nothing unusual, a lot makes suffer from this problem.
  15. Either pressure or vacuum will work; take the Uview unit vacuum down as low as you can get it and then cut off the air flow and see if it will hold that vacuum level for at least 30 min to an hour. If it does, you probably don't have a leak. You may want to put a small hunk of masking tape on the Uview's dial as a reference point during the test. Uview is not the only firm that makes the UV dye, several companies make it as well. We get the Uview product in six-packs of 1 oz bottles that cost a little less than $3 per bottle.
  16. If you are having an intermix issue, it has to be very slight. Two suggestions to contemplate: (1) Have the cooling system pressure tested, even very small leaks show up in these simple tests. (2) Get a small bottle of UV dye for engine oil (Uview, the people that make the Porsche vacuum filling system sell it) and add it to your oil. Run the car for a day with just water in the system, and then pull a sample of the coolant and check it with a UV light to see if it glows. If it is a very small oil transfer, it will still light right up as the dye is very sensitive.
  17. I don't see an intermix, I see cloudy water. Intermix between coolant and oil gives you something that looks like lumpy hot chocolate, usually with drops of oil floating about. Suggest recharging the cooling system with distilled water and a cooling system cleaner, run it for a bit, drain it and then flush it at least twice with clear water. I'll bet the second water flush comes out clear.......
  18. It is not that simple. To be completely safe, you should first check the cam deviation values using a PST II/PIWIS/Durametric, and then the engine should first be locked at TDC (that is the only position in which all of the intake and exhausts valves are unloaded). We would then lock the cams. After replacing the tensioners, recheck the cam deviation values to be sure nothing has moved. Some have been able to remove them one at a time with the engine locked at TDC and the cams unlocked and get away with it, others have not been so lucky.
  19. Porsches do not leak refrigerant at any higher rate than any other make. Some cars are problem children and leak practically from day one; others go past 10 years with no leakage. In addition, as for “pop off valves”, they have been illegal on A/C systems for a long, long time. We have a customer with a restored 1989 Cadillac that ran for more than 20 years on R12 and then burst one of the high-pressure A/C hoses. We replaced all of the hoses, converted the car over to R134A and it has run another 7 years without a problem. We also have a customer with a 2 year old Corvette that the dealer has never been able to fix the leakage on even after multiple trips to their shop. Sometimes certain cars are just a pain in the butt……. As for what pressure either the high or low sides should be at, that depends upon the ambient air temperatures; Porsche, like most OEM’s publishes a chart that provides that data, but it is specific to the surrounding air temps.
  20. I'd seriously reconsider that length service interval and look more towards every 5-6K on the engine oil........................
  21. You can pressure test the entire cooling system and see if there is a pressure drop. Almost any shop can do this.
  22. As for "in-car" flywheel locks, by far, Porsche makes the best unit (part # 000-721-953-81) which is also an extreme rarity: It is inexpensive (around $20). As for the flywheel bolts, never had an issue; 1/2 inch air impact pulls them right out.
  23. I'm not familiar with your exact set up, but on cars with a true iPod interface (OEM or aftermarket), the iPod goes to 'sleep" a few min. after either the system is shut down or the car is turned off. That function is built into the iPod.
  24. Possible leak at the oil cooler, not uncommon.
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