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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Porsche first released the spring assisted style, and then promptly issued a TSB concerning which type of timing chains they should be used on (roller or non-roller), which confused a lot of people. Being Porsche, they then re-updated the tensioners yet again without any explaination. I would get the latest update type for your exact engine year (check with a good parts department like Sunset Porsche to verify which style you should be using) and stick with them.
  2. JFP in PA
    With regard to "incorrect information", are you a.k.a. "Boxterra"? Simple 'yes' or 'no' question. Please clarify. Thanks! Yes, he is..................
  3. JFP in PA
    Fogging is not necessary, and could actually lead to problems. Do not be concerned about not starting the engine, that is the best way to store it as intermittent short running stints can be quite bad for it. Prep it and just let it sit.
  4. JFP in PA
    Excuse me Stefan (or should I say "Boxterra"), it is not a personal attack (your favorite defensive claim when anyone disagrees with you or disproves your point), but a "full disclosure" statement of fact that can be searched out by anyone so interested. You have gone at it, hammer and tong, with both Jake Raby and Charles Navarro over just about every product they make, as well as anyone else that thinks they might have an interesting idea (including the magnetic drain plugs), over on the old Porsche Pete's Boxster Board as well as the forum you moderate (Pedro's Board). Considering the internet records of these exchanges, I think you should be careful about calling anyone's arguments "fallacious", particularly when you have installed one the LN products you are most publicly dismissive of in the engine in your own car............
  5. JFP in PA
    Simple: Some of us recognize why many engine builders install them, why they are found in applications as diverse as air compressors and jet aircraft; while others like to believe that anything not created by the OEM has to be a commercially motivated fraud perpetrated on the ignorant, unwashed masses to separate them from their money. This second group sometimes also has a publically well-documented axe to grind with the manufacturer that makes them................
  6. JFP in PA
  7. JFP in PA
    I'd still suggest the LN, it also uses a very powerful Neodymium magnet that actually makes it had to pull off a ferrous surface like the side of tool box. More than strong enough, and still way cheaper than the Dimple unit...............
  8. JFP in PA
    PIWIS or Durametric software are your only options..............
  9. JFP in PA
    Shops that repair these gearboxes are specialty shops; there are only a few of them around. I know of none in the Atlanta area. The two shops that I know of that have done excellent repairs/overhauls in the past are GBox out of Boulder, CO; and Lufteknic out of Richmond, VA. We have used GBox on a couple of occasions and they have been fine. Both have websites. You would pull the gear box out and either ship it to them for repair, or they also have an exchange program where you buy one already done and ship yours back as a core. GBox typically turns the trans around in a couple of days. While your gearbox is out, it would be an excellent time to do your IMS/RMS updates, new clutch if necessary, and the AoS as it is out in the open with the gearbox out.
  10. JFP in PA
    Why not have the trans repaired? There are a couple shops that specialize in this.......
  11. JFP in PA
    Every so often, someone brings up this subject. Water-less coolant has always been a solution in search for a problem to solve. It is really hard to beat pure water’s ability to conduct and transfer heat. Unfortunately, water boils at relatively low temperatures, and it freezes at 32F. Water is also fairly corrosive. But when the water is pure (as in distilled), and mixed with certain other compounds (modern antifreeze), it not only is an excellent automotive coolant, it is relatively free of corrosive properties for a very long time (we have seen properly maintained Porsches that were 7 and 8 years old with a couple hundred thousand miles on the coolant, and the coolant system was both free of corrosion and still able to go to -40F before freezing). The water pipes issue, like the water pump impeller problems, is more related to the materials they are made from than from the type of coolant in the system. Switching to a ridiculously priced water-less coolant would probably not get you anything other than a thinner wallet to sit on. As someone that services these vehicles every day, I can assure you that at some point your cooling system is going to have to be drained for maintenance work (leaks, failed water pumps, thermostats, etc.). Having to refill it with some magical fluid that cost north of $50 a gallon (and think about how many gallons your system holds), when there is a significantly lower cost and excellently performing alternative is nonsense….
  12. JFP in PA
    Suggest you find a new mechanic, he is dead wrong on this one. Brake fluids are “hydroscopic”, meaning they will absorb moisture. Moisture in the braking system will degrade how well the car can stop as it boils before the brake fluid. Any moisture in the braking system will also lead to terminal corrosion of some very expensive parts, such as the ABS/PSM pumps and control systems. Your brake and clutch hydraulic system (the car shares a common reservoir for both) should be completely flushed every two years, or as Loren pointed out, sooner if the car is tracked, regardless of where you live. A liter of ATE Gold or Blue costs less than $20, your ABS system costs thousands; you make the call…….
  13. JFP in PA
    Buy the LN magnetic drain plug, it is very well made and does an excellent job picking up any ferrous debris in the engine. It is also an excellent way to check for pending problems when doing an oil change. We install a lot of these; they are well worth the nominal cost................ The "Dimple" unit is also over priced.
  14. JFP in PA
    To prevent any chance of the timing moving, it would be a good idea to lock the cams as well.
  15. JFP in PA
    Unfortunately, the TPMS is a federally mandated safety equipment item, like seat belt warning systems and air bags. Dealers here do not want to get involved and accept the liability for disabling them.
  16. JFP in PA
    Typically, the timing jumps because of valve spring pressure against the cams, which will try to rotate the engine if everything is not locked down.
  17. JFP in PA
    I think this is more involved than you may think; to be safe, you need to lock the engine down using the same procedure’s used to change the rear IMS bearing. You can read more about that here: http://www.lnengineering.com/imsretrofit.pdf
  18. JFP in PA
    I’m probably going to start a feud with this, but here goes: Don’t use the set screw procedure. While many have been successful going this route, many more have not. First of all, the set screws do not provide adequate protection against the cams jumping time, particularly in a three chain motor. Secondly, the rear IMS shaft gear is press fit; too much force by the set screws can dislodge the gear, which requires disassembly of the engine to correct. LN Engineering and Jake Raby developed a procedure that totally eliminates the chance of the cam timing moving by locking the engine at TDC, locking the cams in place with fixtures, and removing the chain tensioners to facilitate pulling and replacing the IMS bearing. This procedure works, every time, and without any drama. You can read more about it here: http://www.lnenginee...imsretrofit.pdf
  19. JFP in PA
    Most TPMS require that the controller be "reset" when a sensor has been replaced, or even moved (as when tires are rotated front to rear on more plebian vehicles). These systems are a major pain in the butt as well as a real expense to the owner. I would be willing to bet that your right rear had a premature battery failure; we see this fairly regularly.
  20. JFP in PA
    I'd take it back. If you go to their battery website, you will find that they do not list batteries for the 997, only the "Pepper" or Panamera..........
  21. JFP in PA
    The Ctek has multiple advantages; first, and perhaps most important, all Ctek units have a desulfation step as part of their charge profiles. Sulfating is one of the principal reasons why a battery dies prematurely, running this step every time the Ctek cycles is critical to lengthening the battery's life. No Battery Tenders ever made have this desulfation step in their systems. And, yes, Ctek does have the correct lighter socket adaptor to utilize Porsche's ability to charge through the lighter. Ctek also has a variety of other adaptors, including ones that permanently attach to the battery if you want to go that way. Ctek also makes Porsche’s branded maintainer, but I would not buy one from them as they are way over priced and exactly the same as Ctek’s 3300 model, which you can buy online much cheaper from Amazon and others.
  22. JFP in PA
    At some point, the accountants at Porsche noticed that they were "giving away" an extra couple of inches of the + battery cable, and ordered them shortened immediately, making the switch to an Optima require a longer (about 2-3 inches) cable. Yours is probably one of them. You can get the longer cable from either Yellow Dog, or your local parts store, they are a stocking item.
  23. JFP in PA
    This is a cheaply made charger from Clore Automotive in Kansas. Sold on Amazon, not particularly good, but cheap. I'd trash it an get a Ctek.
  24. JFP in PA
    Most of the late model Porsches use the Red Top 34R (the R means the terminals are reversed, which is the configuration Porsche uses). Depending upon your exact model, you may also need a mounting kit which many make themselves or purchase (around $40) from aftermarket suppliers such as Yellow Dog Motorsports. We have installed many 34R's over the years, and it is a clean, long lived, and completely corrosion free set up.
  25. JFP in PA
    Unfortuantely, Lorem is correct; there are other "high points" in the cooling system, such as the oil cooler, that are traps for air. Even with multiple manual "burpings", it is not unusual to find air trapped in system, which does not dislodge under pressure. Vacuum filling totally eliminates any trapped air, and any chance for hot spots to form and potentially cause damage.
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