Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,726
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    198

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Porsche uses a leak down value rather than compression testing, but any Boxster worth its salt would have compression test values north of 200-210 PSIG (throttle blade locked open during the test).
  2. They are a touch high, but not by that much. It could be a testing system accuracy issue, but meanwhile be happy they are high...........
  3. You will not be out of the woods just yet. A lot of things in the car are coded to your existing DME, so swap it out and the steering wheel may work, but other stuff may not, and you will start throwing codes. You are replacing a small problem with a larger one; find a PIWIS and just code the wheel to the car and be done with it. These car's electronics are system, not a bunch of unconnected components; randomly substituting control units is a recipe for a lot of future diagnostics time........
  4. "Tempostat" is Porsche speak for cruise control. Cruise control will not function on a non moving vehicle, but you should still see the green "cruise active" display on the instrument panel (item #2 below):
  5. I would try clearing the code and see if it comes back first. You never clean the sensor itself, quickest way to kill them. Your code is an "aging" code, which means the sensor is probably on its way out and needs replacement. As they are not that expensive, and you would need to remove the old sensor just to try and "clean" it, just replace it.
  6. You are correct, there are only three in the M96. A brain-dead typo on my part! 😜 You may see some improvement, but it will not be several degrees, which is what you are looking for.
  7. Long before I would even consider retiming the cams, I would try your idea of installing new hydraulic tensioners (all three), and then re-reading the deviation values. From experience, I would be willing to bet you are still going to see high values at that point, which means the wear pads still need to be replaced. When the pads are replaced, normally the engines deviation values drop back to much more acceptable ranges, so if you retimed the cams while the pads were still bad, you would be retiming them again after you replaced them. At the milage on your car, those pads are past due to being replaced. 😉
  8. I don't know if we are experiencing a terminology gap here or not, are you planning on replacing the hydraulic chain tensioners, or the chain wear pads between the cams, which are the more common cause of excess deviation values on five chain engines?
  9. A lot of aftermarket reflashes don't really do much to the engine's output HP and torque at lower RPM ranges, everything seems to happen 4,500 RPM and up (look at their published dyno curves). So, if you are blasting down the Mulsanne straight at Le Mans, it would matter; but driving down to the corner to pick up a pizza, not so much.........
  10. I stand corrected! Some engines used a Torx head fastener:
  11. It is supposed to be a metric Allan headed fastener, perhaps you can get a mechanic's inspection mirror up to it and see if it is rounded or has some debris stuck in the Allan keyway.
  12. That helped a lot. The leaking fastener is a chain guide rail pivot, item #31 in the diagram below, which allows the guide rail (items #30 & 33) to move with the long cam chains. It has a sealing ring under it, but this part should NOT be removed without doing a lot more work to release the chain tension after locking the cams in time, as the guide rail is under tension, and it will jump out of place, at which time the engine has to come out and apart to put everything back together. You could try re torquing it, 10Nm or 7.5 ft. lbs. (I would use an inch pound tool set to 90-inch pounds as the spec is so low).
  13. What transmission is in the car? Do you have a photo looking directly up at where it is leaking? I am having difficulty orienting what we are looking at.............
  14. Hard to tell from the perspective of your photo, but looks like the coolant guide assembly, which is weird because all the ones I have seen are plastic. Is this photo taken from the water pump or flywheel side?
  15. Looks like this: Water guide housing Has a couple of seals on it, and it is a whole lot of fun to get out. Yours looks metallic, all the ones I have seen are plastic.
  16. Welcome to RennTech You don't, you will need access to a PIWIS system to do the coding.
  17. You give your turbo to a valet? Brave man.....................😮
  18. We have seen a few, and while the turbo cars seem to get the most out of reprogramming in dyno testing, a couple of observations: Some reflashes cause connectivity issues with some systems in the cars when trying to do OBD port diagnostics. We have seen multiple cases of cars that would not go through IM Readiness tests required in many states for emission inspections. Both of the above observed problems disappeared when the cars were re-flashed back to factory. Multiple owners have commented that they really didn't see all that much "seat of the pants" improvements when compared to the dyno numbers.
  19. If you are referring to the Boxster door template mentioned above in post by atmorris, it is a PDF file, I just downloaded and opened it without any issues; the original guide from the first posting has been removed by the OP and is no longer available.
  20. You didn't say what year and model you are dealing with, but in general, the heater core is removed from the under the driver's side dashboard. It is located right in the center of the vehicle above the transmission tunnel underneath the dashboard. The relay carrier, Immobilizer control unit, and a second control unit must be removed, hidden behind the driver's side lower dash panels. Good luck, this is a big project.
  21. Unfortunately, people play "the terminology game" on these parts; one exceedingly popular online parts peddler regularly lists parts as "from an OEM supplier", which is technically correct, but factually wrong. The supplier may supply Porsche parts for the taillights in one of their models, but in fact do not supply the cooling system part you are attempting to purchase, so while they are "an OEM supplier", saying that in relation to what you are trying to purchase is very misleading at a minimum. I would suggest you contact RennTech sponsor Sunset Porsche; great pricing and service, and you know the part is the real thing. 😉
  22. You have a leaking water pump. The only suggestion I can offer is to make sure the next one is a factory unit; we have seen too many aftermarket units fail prematurely.
  23. These tubes take a heat set to the rest of the system and are not as flexible as they were when new. You need to work with a hose removal spoon and free up the connections one at a time, they will eventually come loose. In this weather, being inside a warm garage helps as well.
  24. All of them. This is exactly why it is a good idea to regularly check the sump vacuum levels with a digital manometer. We always checked every car that came into the shop, regardless of why it was there; AOS has to be considered a consumable that needs to be monitored and replaced when necessary, like tires or brake pads, and prevents having to go through exactly what you are doing.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.