JFP in PA

If you are just changing calipers, no plug is needed as long as the lines are not left open. But in any case, you are still going to need a fitting wrench to get the caliper apart.

We are at "cross terms" here, the line going to the caliper is a "flex" line, the "hard" lines are attached the chassis. The caliper flex lines look like this: The hard line connection you can see if the photo I provided, and looks like this up close: On some cars, the flex line goes direct to the caliper, on others there is a short section of hard line at the caliper that is connected to a flex line that runs up to the main hard line. I have to assume that is what you are referring to....

The hard lines do not go directly to the calipers, they go first to a flex line between the hard line and the caliper so the unit can move. The hard line/ flex line connections is seen about mid frame on the left of this photo: We regularly get cars flat bedded in because someone left the line open too long and got air back up into the system far enough to cause the system to go nuts. If you disconnect the hard line for any length of time, it needs to be capped or plugged. Exactly what are you trying to do?

First of all, you should be using a "fitting wrench" when working on these as they are designed to break the coupling without damaging the hard line fittings: These wrenches have a larger gripping surface on the fitting flats, so the fittings can be undone or tightened without damage. A metric set is well worth the nominal investment. Secondly, if you are going to remove the flex lines, you need to have a cap of some sort to put on the hardline end to keep the brake fluid from draining out of the system while you are working, A simple short section of hose with a plug of some sort in one end will do fine. If you do not cap or plug your hydraulic lines while working on the calipers, and enough fluid drains out, you could end up needing cycle the ABS/PSM pump while bleeding the system and that mandates either a PIWIS or Durametric system to do it.

Try 1096

Throw out bearings can and do go bad, but it is not a common failure item. Many times, noises that were thought to be throw out bearings turn out to be from other sources.

Try 6850

I think you are referring to the PSM (not PCM) light; and , yes, sometimes a faulty brake switch can cause this issue. It can also be voltage related (low charging rate/weak battery).

Hate to sound obvious, but when something like this happens, you always go back to the work that was just completed first. Get the code read, you may simply have a poorly connected coil, or a loose hose on one of the intake areas and are leaking boost.

You need to be careful with the "pickle fork" method as some can actually damage the alloy carrier as well as the rubber boot on the tire rod end. Once the carrier is damaged, there is no going back, you will need a new one. One trick we use is to always coat the new tie rod end shaft with a very thin layer of anti-seize compound, makes future extractions a bit easier.

NAPA stores have been carrying the Pentosin line, so I would start there. I would also replace the spring clamps with stainless worm drive clamps which hold much better. You may have just had a bad clamp. When you get the correct fluid, fill the reservoir to the full mark with the engine off, then start it and turn the steering wheel to lock one way, then the other, and then re-center the wheels. Turn the engine off and adjust the fluid level. If everything sounds and feels fine, take it for a short run and then recheck the fluid level again. You should be fine.

Try 8951

OK, here is the basic layout for the entire power steering system, including pump, lines, and cooler: I would also strongly recommend not driving the vehicle without fixing the fluid problem and refilling it.

“Cold welding” or the combining of two metal components through the use of anaerobic type adhesives has been a failed experiment for several OEM’s, not just Porsche. The economic lure of the quick assembly of alloy components using low cost techniques and simple assembly hardware has been pretty much a complete failure for everyone that tried it. The heat cycling and pressure requirements over time were just more than the system could endure in some applications.

That insert should be a fairly tight fit into the hub carrier (no play at all), if it is not, it could also be be a source of steering noise issues.

The fuel pressure regulator is closed when the car is not running (no vacuum). This functions as a shut off or check valve for the return side of the system to maintain pressure in the fuel rails. If the regulator did not do this, fuel pressure would bleed off via the return line, and momentarily make the care hard to restart, particularly when hot. When you run the fuel delivery test (engine off), the fuel flow from the pump opens the regulator, allowing the fuel into the return line. The fuel delivery rate out of the line leading to the fuel filter should be at least 850 cc or more. The “standard” delivery test (OEM service manual method) is done off the fuel return line, so you are seeing the entire fuel system delivery (pump, filter, regulator, fuel rails, fuel lines, etc.). If the return line flow is in bounds, everything else has to be OK by default. You should see three lines coming off the top of the fuel pump, one is fuel out from the pump (the turret), and the other two are the fuel return line and the tank vent line to the EVAP canister system. The main out line also has a check valve at the top of the pump to hold pressure while the car is sitting, otherwise pressure would bleed backwards into the tank, and you would have the same hot start issues that a bad pressure regulator would cause. On modern cars, the entire fuel system is a closed loop to prevent any hydrocarbon leaks to the atmosphere. When the engine is off, the system is entirely sealed. Any vapors generated in the tank are routed to the EVAP canister and stored in activated carbon. When the car starts, a small controlled amount of outside air is bled into the EVAP canister, across the carbon bed to pick up trapped vapors, to the tank vent, and into a purge line system that leads to a small valve at the intake manifold. When the car is running, these vapors are let into the intake at a controlled rate and burnt, so nothing escapes to the atmosphere. This EVAP purge system also acts as a fuel tank vent line to limit the vacuum level in the fuel tank, otherwise the pump would not be able to draw, and actually prevent excess vacuum from collapsing the plastic fuel tank. While somewhat overly complicated, the system is quite functional.

The crank should be "miked" for trueness and bearing size, as well as journal roundness.

Let me guess, the tie rod tool you used did not look like this: I am not aware of anyone selling the conical insert for the steering knuckle on the hub unit. I believe they are an interference fit part that comes with the hub assembly, which is not cheap (about $900 per side). You can try heating the insert to get it off the tie rod end, but be careful not to damage it as it will need to be pressed back into the hub carrier.

All of the Porsche street cars share components like window regulators, electrical switches, and sensors; it would be too expensive to do otherwise. So some of the sensors and electronic bits have similar failure rates in the Turbo or GT2 as a 996/997. But the engines in the Turbo and GT2 cars are a unique mechanical design honed over years of hard core racing, and share just about nothing with the more "pedestrian" M96/97 engines. Can you break a Metzger lump? Sure, if you try hard enough or go completely nuts with it; which is why PCNA has a replacement engine program for them. So if you want to take one of the Metzger’s and take it to the limit, just bring money, lots of money........... :eek:

Not really, unless you go nuts with the boost levels. The components were designed for ruggedness and racing use, castings are thick where they need to be, and proven over years of hard running. Basically, the factory broke just about everything that could fail, and then improved it. Running just about any level of boost on a M96/97 is asking for problems and shortening the engine's life expectancy.

The Turbo uses the Metzger design engine, which is completely different than the M96/97 engine found in all the 996's. While it does have a lay shaft, it is pressure lubricated and relatively bullet proof, as is the rest of the engine. Read up on the Metzger engine, it had a true dry sump system and a lot of other improvements over the M96/97, which is why a replacement costs north of $50K.

Try 0642

The car should hold 3.8 bar pressure when it is not running, 3.2 at engine idle. All flow measurements are with the engine off for safety reasons, plus the engine would not run well, if at all, while doing a fuel delivery test as it would be fuel starved. The regulator is vacuum operated, throttling back the fuel delivery and pressure (opening) under high vacuum signal (idle, cruise, or deceleration) and stepping up fuel delivery(closing) under low vacuum signal (open throttle for power) or during engine start. It essentially is bleeding off excess fuel to the return line when not required by the engine. If you are referring to the round plastic "turret" where the fuel supply line connects, it is just part of the fuel level sender unit, which also includes the tank vent line and fuel return line, and extends down into the tank.

That is pretty much how the system functions. You should have as much fuel delivery at the return line as at the filter. While we are on the subject, have you checked your fuel pressure regulator for being involved in the noise you hear at start up? Reason I ask is your earlier comment about the fuel pressure swinging from high to low and then building back up sounds like it could be some sort of blockage, or it could also be related to the pressure regulator opening and abruptly closing when it should not be doing that: While I hate to be throwing in more possibilities at the 11th hour, if the regulator were to "dump" the fuel rail pressure, nearly all the fuel volume would suddenly be passing into the return line, which could be the source of the sound you hear as it heads back to the tank. Unfortunately, there are very few tests to check the regulator, but one common rule of thumb is if If the operating pressure is below 35psi, or fluctuates wildly, and the fuel pump seems otherwise fine, it’s probably a good bet that the regulator is bad. If you pull off the vacuum connection and there is fuel dribbling from the nipple, the diaphragm inside has failed and the regulator must be replaced. The fuel pressure regulator could also explain why the return delivery rate is so low.

It sounds like a blockage of some sort, the return line should also be at least 850 cc in 30 seconds.