JFP in PA

Many dealers do not even activate the ABS/PSM pumps during a standard flush unless there is a lot of air in the system or they are replacing major system components, so you should not need to either. You will need a bit over one liter of fluid.

You need to be careful about two things: First, the Tip does not like the wrong type of fluid. Specs say that the car should use OEM 999-917-545-00, Esso LT 71141, or Pentosin ATF-1. Secondly, the lack of communication between the Durametric and the Tip controller is a concern. If the Tip’s controller is out, that needs to be addressed as you need to communicate with it to correctly service the Tip.

Try 7139

Try 4890

You sometimes have to wonder if they could possibly make it any more complicated............................. :eek:

Very few aftermarket exhaust systems actually add anything but noise, some to the point of distraction. Some even reduce the engine's power output, so don't put a lot of weight on performance improvement claims. Quality, fit, and installation complexity are all over the map. Do some "due diligence" before buying, talk to actual owners, and if possible actually get to hear what you are buying on a car like your own before spending a lot of money on something you may not like long term.

Strange electrical issues (things not working when they should, or working when they shouldn't) are often related to a failing ignition switch. The switch is a cheap and easily replaced item.

Not overly complicated; remove the plastic underbody shields, support the transmission and remove the trans mount support bolts. Remove the trans support metal brace. At this point you should be able to see the driveshaft flex disc, remove the bolts in the disc and pull the driveshaft out while putting something under the front diff to catch any oil that may drip. This procedure, by-the-by, is fully covered in the Bentley 996 service manual with photos and complete diagrams of the components.

Glad to be of help...................

Get rid of the gear oil and refill with the OEM product; it is a unique full synthetic gear lube produced for only for Porsche. We get cars in regularly with gearbox noise issues that are traced back to using the wrong lube.

Today's tool-tip: Spend about $9 and get yourself a hose removal tool (this one is by OTC and sold by Amazon): Slide it into the hose end, and a quick slide around the fitting circumference, the hose is loose and undamaged. Works on any rubber hose held on by a clamp.

We use the Durametric system every day in the shop, and find it works very well on a broad cross section of Porsche models and years. A lot of other shops also use it. I have also found that the folks at Durametric are both quick and helpful in sorting out any problems with the install of the system or any bugs or quirks that pop up from time to time, most of which are fairly simple to resolve. No, it will not do everything that a PIWIS does (yet), but is by far the best alternative I have seen to date to a nearly $20K annual lease for the OEM system.

Ummmm............you are aware that a P0420 code is indicative of a problem with the three way catalytic converter, and not the pre-cat on the OEM header?

That is going to significantly impact the car's braking at a minimum and could casue other problems (ABS, PSM, line pressure, pressure balance, etc.); why do you want to do this?

Kind of the wrong end of the motor for that, plus on some 996 models changing the water pump requires getting some things out of the way that could be problematic with no trans holding the other end up. I'd leave the pump for another time.

The AOS is much easier with the car apart, only takes a couple min. to do.

Only one problem with that statement, Ross-Tech's VCDS cannot activate or even access many fucntions on a Porsche that the Durametric system can; in fact, from Ross-Tech's own website: Porsche: Although Porsche SE and Volkswagen AG have takensteps to merge, Porsche still does diagnostics quite differently than VW so VCDSdoes not do OEM diagnostics on most Porsche systems. However, we've heard goodthings about Durametric's Diagnostic Tool for Porsche.

I think you need to understand the process a bit more, and we would need to know a bit more about where you are and what you are trying to accomplish. First of all, why do you want to get rid of the cats? If you are just adding headers, you should also recognize that the potential for increased power output via this route is rather limited without going the full "ten-tenths" in retuning the engine, including a DME re-flash with one of the aftermarket programs on one of these engines. As the US versions of the 986 use four O2 sensors (two per bank), while the "ROW" (rest of the world) use only two (one per side), it is possible (using a PSTII or PIWIS) to re-flash the DME to ROW status if you remove one of the sensors from each side to prevent throwing related codes. But in the process, you defeat the DME's ability to alter the fuel trims accurately, which leads to higher levels of pollution. In some states, visual inspection of the emissions systems is part of the annual inspection process, with the cat and O2 sensor missing, which could lead to some major problems. In some states, they still plug the "sniffer" in the tail pipe to test the cars rather than run the OBD II based I/M readiness test; a car with a revamped DME program and missing cats could have problems there as well. Several header manufacturers also produce good quality headers with the cats and the O2 sensor bungs, so they would be a bolt in swap without all the other associated downsides. And as aftermarket headers add little in the way of absolute performance, you would not be giving up much by having headers with cats.

You should be fine with 3 gallons of coolant and 3 of distilled water. Pre mix them outside the car, and if you have access to one, use a vacuum fill unit.

Year and model? In general, the cars hold about 6 gallons of coolant mix total, but it varies by year and model configurations,

You probably have over filled it, but it is easy to adjust, get the trans up to temp and remove the over flow plug and it will correct itself.

You need to be extremely careful with the cooling systems on these cars; the M96/97’s do not take well to being overheated. Neither photo show any signs of an intermix issue; if you had one, the oil and/or coolant would look more like hot chocolate, and they do not. That said, the “-01” cap is a suspect. If the car were in my shop, I would pressure test both the cap (to see what pressure it opens at), and the cooling system to see if there are any leaks. If the cap and cooling system checked out OK, I would then pull the plugs, looking at each for signs of “steam cleaning” that would be evidence of either a head gasket (not common) or cylinder head cracking (more common). I would also run a leak down test on each cylinder, and possibly bore scope them as well looking for the same signs. Assuming that the inspections found nothing obvious, I would replace the cap, drain the entire cooling system, mix fresh coolant with distilled water and refill the system under vacuum.

The Durametric system is not perfect, but it still remains the best non-PIWIS system out there. I think of it best described as “a work in progress”, as they seem to be open to comments and suggestions on how to improve the system.

Glad to be of help; next time I'm south of London on the M25 ring road, I'll take you up on that pint.................. :cheers:

True enough, but it can also be done with a simple multimeter if one does not have access to one of those; if memory serves, I think the voltages on a good sensor are 450mV between pins 3 and 4, and 720mV between pin 3 and ground.