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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    You need access to a Porsche specific scan tool to go further. P0700 Indicates the powertrain control module (PCM) detected an error in the vehicle speed information.
  2. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech I would do two things: Remove the coil packs on the misfiring cylinders and look at them for any signs of cracking; if you find any, they need to be replaced. Second, pull the plugs and "read" them, looking for carbon build up, signs of oil or fuel. If highly carboned or covered with fuel, you may have injector issues.
  3. JFP in PA
    Oil degrades the elastomer in between the dual masses of the flywheel.
  4. JFP in PA
    Dead dual mass flywheel, leaking IMS cover. I do not think Porsche sells the IMS cover flange seal by itself, only on a new cover; and a dead dual mass is not uncommon with an oil leak inside the bellhousing.
  5. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech I do not believe Porsche sells the regulator by itself, only with the $1300 pump. The pressure sensor is available by itself, however.
  6. JFP in PA
    Sounds like you either have a very large parasitic power drain, a dying battery, or your charging system is malfunctioning, or some combination of these issues. Have the battery and the alternator load tested, many auto parts stores will do this for free. If everything checks out OK, you need to perform a parasitic drain test, which has been written up here and elsewhere multiple times, to identify which electrical circuit is the issue. As for the car's weird behavior, weak batteries and charging systems are well known for causing all sorts of strange behavior in these cars. Good luck!
  7. JFP in PA
    I've never even tried to pull the trans without removing the exhaust system, so I have no idea if you will have enough clearance to get it out. We normally remove the rear bumper cover, rear crash bar, and the entire exhaust system up to the triangular flange.
  8. JFP in PA
    Most likely a coil issue. Try clearing the codes and switching coils # 3 & 4, and see if the code comes back on the other cylinder. If it does, you will know what it is.
  9. JFP in PA
    Just as a thought for future consideration, you can have you system tested for free at many auto parts stores, who offer the service in anticipation of selling a battery; or you can purchase a full featured hand held load tester for less than $100 that can be used to test any SLI battery you may have. 😉
  10. JFP in PA
    You need to remove the two that tension the IMS chain on the flywheel end of the engine, easiest thing to do is locate an online copy of LN Engineering’s IMS retrofit instructions and follow them to the letter. The IMS flange has a ribbed seal around its circumference, not sure if Porsche offers it separate from the cover anymore.
  11. JFP in PA
    Not to be pedantic, but while your “load test” was interesting, that is not how it is done in shop. We use a carbon pile load tester that can exert upwards of 100 Amp load when required. We set the device to the appropriate maximum load for the vehicle under test, and then apply the load for 15-30 seconds, awards looking at the battery and alternator voltage outputs to see how they respond. The load tester can also “tickle” the diodes in the alternator to see how they respond (an alternator with a questionable diode can seem to be putting out the correct voltage and current, but will suddenly drop off when fully loaded, causing both voltage and current swings). Something else that a proper load test spots is sulfated plates in the battery; sulfate builds up over time in a battery, increasing internal electrical resistance. When a sulfated battery is hit by the high amperage load, the voltage momentarily drops precipitously, often down to as low as 8-9 volts as the battery heats up, and then seems to go back to more reasonable voltage levels as the load comes off. When the battery does this, it is time to can it, it will not recover. The trick is to catch this quick voltage move when it happens, which a proper load testing system does.
  12. JFP in PA
    13MM is correct, installed using the correct tool for the updated design PTFE seal. Both the seal and the opening MUST be absolutely clean, not even finger prints or the seal will leak. NO SEALANT of any kind should be used. Removing the flywheel side seal on the oversized IMS bearing is highly recommended. Prior to removing the IMS flange, the engine must be locked at TDC, with the cams also locked in position before removing the hydraulic chain tensioners; then the flange can be removed and the seal extracted. A small dental pick is the ideal tool to get the seal out.
  13. JFP in PA
    Whenever you encounter electrical issues, the first step should always be to make sure all the basic electrical systems are functional, otherwise you can end up chasing your tail and endlessly replace parts that are actually all right to begin with. 😉
  14. JFP in PA
    I would load test both the battery and the alternator, and run a voltage drop test on the primary battery cables.
  15. JFP in PA
    These cars are very sensitive to voltage differences due to either battery or alternator issues, so both need to be in good nick before trying to address unusual codes.
  16. JFP in PA
    Not surprising. Before even thinking about retiming the cams, you need to address the two small chain wear pads between the cams on this five-chain engine, they wear much faster than the rest of the chain pads and typically are the root cause of the deviation issues.
  17. JFP in PA
    I would expect to see quieter startups, loose or worn tensioners are the most common cause of startup chain slap. Bigger question is what are the cam deviation values post tensioner updates?
  18. JFP in PA
    OK, that is a hydraulic chain tensioner, so my original comments apply.
  19. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech Sounds like the riser heat shield on the exhaust system.
  20. JFP in PA
    And did it look like this when it came out:
  21. JFP in PA
    Now I need to ask a couple of questions: There are three hydraulic chain tensioners in these engines, two on the flywheel end, one on the water pump/oil pump end, and that one is located underneath the AC compressor, on the top of the engine. None of them are anywhere near the oil pump, which is almost directly below the water pump. So exactly what did you remove? And did it come from here:
  22. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech You didn't say what year and model is involved, which is always useful information, or why you removed the tensioner. Realistically, you can reinstall the tensioner you removed, and then go through the cam allocation procedure to see where the cam timing is currently, resetting it if necessary. If you removed more than one tensioner, just remember that they are not all the same and each one must be installed in the correct location, Good luck.
  23. JFP in PA
    Porsche gas tanks are very durable and positioned in such a manner that they do not see much in the way of physical damage while in service. By far, most tank related issues are where the filler neck assembly meets the tank, the tank venting system, or at the top where the pump access is.
  24. JFP in PA
    The tank actually sits on a couple of protruding lugs that require you to lift the tank upwards, and then move it slightly forward before it will lower out of the car (page 552 in the link I sent you). The tank tends to take a "set" to these lugs, so you need to give it a shove upwards first. As noted above, everything underneath the tank has to come out, including the water pipes. This is not a fun project..................🤬
  25. JFP in PA
    This is an absolute bear of a job, as the tank has to come out of the bottom of the car. Literally everything beneath it needs to come out first, then the tank drops down. You might find this helpful: GT2/Turbo gas tank removal Good luck!
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