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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Try 5352
  2. JFP in PA
    Someone once wrote that the definition of character is doing the right thing, even when no one is looking................ :oops:
  3. JFP in PA
    I think that needs a couple pretty pictures...................... :eek:
  4. JFP in PA
    No, not necessarily. In this case, there is something unusual as neither a PIWIS or Durametric system see any faults or codes, so there are none to "reset". Unhooking the battery does remove any chance of collecting any data stored in the system; and, in any case, you have never been able to reset an airbag MIL by disconnecting the battery on one of these cars.
  5. JFP in PA
    Not sure what that will accomplish as disconnecting the battery has never been able to clear air bag MIL's in these cars.............. I have to agree with Loren on this one, it does not make sense; you should not be able to trip the air bag MIL without some event that a good scanner would see. But I would also do an electrical systems test (battery load test, alternator output, etc.) as strange voltage excursions can trigger MIL's that are not real.
  6. JFP in PA
    The issues may be related, start by looking at the brake fluid and see if it is low; if it is, fill to the correct level. If the fluid is not low, you may have a problem related to getting wet when you washed it, such as a loose or cracked harness connector. Another option would be to scan the car with either a PIWIS unit or the Durametric software to see what codes are involved.
  7. JFP in PA
    Ahsai is correct, there already is a magnet mounted in the case, but adding another one would not hurt anything.
  8. JFP in PA
    Sometimes, persistence pays dividends. Glad you got it out.Can you provide where you saw the plug in question? I am having difficulty locating it.
  9. JFP in PA
    You can try tapping on the plug, just don't get over ambitious in the process. The plug should have been torqued to 22 ft. lb., so it may just be some corrosion. You might also want to try one of those new "freeze and release" penetration oil systems on the market.
  10. JFP in PA
    A word to the wise on transmission service and drain plugs: Never remove the drain plug until you get the fill plug out; if you take out the drain plug first, and then cannot get the fill plug out, you are officially in very deep yogurt because you cannot refill the gearbox. Get the fill plug out first.
  11. JFP in PA
    The first thing to do is have the system pressure tested (including the coolant cap); takes about 30 min., but would confirm the presence of a leak or not. If it fails the pressure test, you need to go to the next step. As the leak can be very small, yet still smell quite strongly, I would suggest getting a bottle of UV coolant dye and adding it to the vehicle. Run the vehicle normally for a couple days, then using a "black light" UV source, start inspecting the entire system looking for the tell-tale evidence of a leak (there may be more than one), which will be very pronounced visually due to the dye.
  12. JFP in PA
    All Porsche factory service manuals are copyrighted, and Porsche has a history of zealously defending their intellectual property.
  13. JFP in PA
    Another option is to try looking for some used units, another poster here with both three way cats dead got a pair for less than $500 that got him back on the road, and even got some scrap value money for his dead ones to help offset the purchase.
  14. JFP in PA
    What we have here is problem of mixed terms, a battery has both a CCA (cold cranking amperage) rating, and a AH or amp hour rating; they are different values determined in separate tests on the same battery:CCA or cold cranking amps is how they measure the number of amps that a battery should be able to deliver at zero degrees F for thirty seconds and not dropping lower than 7.2 volts. A battery needs to get a high CCA rating, no matter the car battery size. The higher the CCA rating, the easier it will be to start up a vehicle in very cold weather.An amp hour (AH) is a rating usually found on deep cycle batteries. The standard rating is an Amp rating taken for 20 Hours. What this means, say for a 100 AH rated battery is this: Draw from the battery for 20 hours and it will provide a total of 100 amp-hours. That translates to about 5 amps an hour. 5 x 20 = 100. However, it's very important to know that the total time of discharge and load applied is not a linear relationship. As your load increases, your realized capacity decreases. This means if you discharged that same 100 AH battery by a 100 amp load, it will not give you one hour of runtime. On the contrary, the perceived capacity of the battery will be that of 64 Amp Hours.I hope that clears up your conundrum.
  15. JFP in PA
    I would think that the problem for LNE would be how to weed out the competent from the "not so much" group when it comes to the DIY segment. At the outset of the retrofits, even some otherwise competent shop and even dealer personnel got into problems with these installs because they tried to short cut the proceedures. But the shops quickly learned and did not repeat the problems they casued; while nearly every DIY is a first time installer. Jake was offering a "for a fee" telephone support option, but I do not know what became of that. And at the end of the day, both LNE and Flat6 are truely small businesses without the staff to support something like that long term. At the end of the day, these guys are not like Bank of America with a room full of trained telephone operators waiting to take your call.
  16. JFP in PA
    I too find it sad, but as a small business man myself, I also recognize that occasionally businesses have to make fairly unpopular decisions based up circumstances that develop over time. From the very beginning, the DIY segment of the field retrofit for the IMS has been problematic from a support standpoint. I cannot even count the numbers of calls or emails we received from people that ran into trouble (and we are not a retail reseller of the product), and I can assure you that we are not in a position to spend an hour on the phone attempting to help someone 3,000 miles away that has run into trouble. And because the issues typically stem from the fact that the car owner simply did not follow the installation directions, or was ill equipped to even attempt it in the first place, I cannot imagine how LNE or Flat6 could provide detailed technical support when this happened. Sometimes in business what at first seems like a really good idea becomes an overwhelming burden due to unforeseen circumstances; this appears to be one of those situations. And as a business person, you then have to face the facts and change direction before your business becomes swamped by these circumstances.........just ask Nissan about their "Leaf" electric car, or Honda's fuel cell vehicle, both of which are really neat ideas, but are also colossal commercial flops due to "unforeseen circumstances".
  17. JFP in PA
    OK, your second choice would be 4909; and your third 4999.
  18. JFP in PA
    Try 4899
  19. JFP in PA
    The addition of the magnet alone makes it worth the wait.
  20. JFP in PA
    I would be very circumspect about using a stainless steel plug in an aluminum sump unless you coat it with anti seize every time it is out. Dissimilar metals often have galling or seizure problems, which would require removing the sump cover while the engine is still full of oil; something I have had to do a couple times and can strongly recommend against going there without a good reason (we ended up drilling a drain hole in the sump cover to get the oil out). Before going SS, I would look at LN Engineering's magnetic drain plug, it is hard anodized aluminum (no dissimilar metals issues) to reduce wear on the hex, also uses a larger sized hex tool to spread the torque load over a larger area, and it has an extremely powerful neodymium magnet that will pick up any ferrous debris in the oil: We have had them on customer's cars, as well as my own, for years; show none of the problems the OEM plug has. Great addition to any car.
  21. JFP in PA
    The clutch lubricant is circulated to a oil/water cooler on the side of the gearbox, the controls are internal to the PDK control computer. The clutch oil pump is inside the bell housing, not unlike an traditional automatic transmission:Changing the clutch oil flow requires activating a valve inside that pump, hence the use of the PIWIS to control it.
  22. JFP in PA
    To get the alternator out, the long lower mounting bolt needs a good smack to force the rear threaded insert back so it releases. This has been covered before in alternator threads. From your description, you may have disturbed one of the lines running to the coolant surge tank or AOS (difficult to discern without photos). If you have snapped a coolant line, it needs to be replaced as the system runs under nearly 20 PSIG of pressure when the car is hot; taping or patching is not going to hold.
  23. JFP in PA
    Try 2655Thanks JFP in PA for the quick reply. Unfortunately 2655 did not work. I also tried 2653 and 2657 and they did not work. Do you have any other suggestions.Thanks.Recheck your serial number for the radio, the one you posted decodes to 2655.I just checked it over and everything is correct.CDR-210SN. V5011249R 28962655 does not work. Need help stillThanks.That serial number still yields the same code, 2655; second choice would be 2555, and third choice would be 2565.Just to be safe, how are you obtaining the radio's serial number and entering the code? According to the manufacturer, it should work like this:"CR-210: Press tone, then hold both the '0' & '8' buttons until the radioname appears. Then scroll to PR-VERSION using the tuning arrow.Now you should be able to retrieve the serial number by selectingthe station preset numbers.- CR/CDR-210, enter code by pushing the signal seek switch"
  24. JFP in PA
    Try 2655Thanks JFP in PA for the quick reply. Unfortunately 2655 did not work. I also tried 2653 and 2657 and they did not work. Do you have any other suggestions.Thanks.Recheck your serial number for the radio, the one you posted decodes to 2655.
  25. JFP in PA
    Try 2655
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