JFP in PA

Did the valve body come with all new solenoids?

Welcome to RennTech No idea on the Oring, but normally in the Porsche parts system, if one part fits multiple vehicles, it would be noted. As the part cannot be that expensive, you could always buy it and find out; and if doesn't fit, take what is left of your old ring to a part store and try to match it up to something. Plumbing outlets are also reliable sources for this type of part. Good luck!

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I replied to this earlier, it sits between the guide tube and the bearing, pretty much as shown in your photo.

If you just torque to down to a higher value, both Curil and Loctite are toast, you need to remove the nut, clean it and the center bolt threads, and then start over.

The spacer just sits there. The Curil goes on first, then a dab of blue (medium Loctite) on the center bolt closest to the bearing (so the nut fines it when it gets there), torque it, then the wicking Loctite last. A lot of shops just use the wicking stuff only, and have not encountered problems, but the use of both is a "belt and suspenders" approach.

On both the guide tube and the splines, but again, sparingly 😉

It is a fully synthetic EP3 type grease. The Sachs product I mentioned is a duplicate product that is available domestically at reasonable prices, and a single tube could last you a lifetime. 😉

The release bearing guide bolts should torque to 18 ft. lbs. The flat washer is a combination oil slinger to keep gear oil in the front bearing from walking out the release tube, and it serves as a spacer. As for the correct lubricant, Porsche specs a product you won't be able to find in this country, so I would use Sachs high-performance grease, which sells for less than $10 for a tube. Just don't go nuts applying it, a thin coating is all that is needed.

Throw out bearing looks correct. There are multiple IMS center bolt torque specs because there are different center bolts (sizes, grades, and unique undercut machining, etc.). As yours is a 2008 with the oversized bearing with a 22MM center bolt nut, torque spec is 14 ft. lb.

And just an observation: This is one Hell of a lot easier with the engine out; actually saves time and allows you to do a better job with the engine on a stand; plus you can complete any other work at the same time.

Along with all the parts, you will need the cam retention tool to hold the cams in place while doing the work: Or some homemade version:

Welcome to RennTech Life isn't going to be that simple; the spec limits on cam deviation values is +/- 6, and at 5.23 you are getting close. Replacing the hydraulic tensioners is not going to help this problem; five chain engines are famous for having cam deviation issues caused by the small chain wear pads located in between the cams on the cylinder heads: Cost wise, the pads are not expensive, but getting at them is labor intensive, and one of the reason Porsche switched to a three-chain cam drive, which does not use them.

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VW changed design, and it carried over to the 987, can still be removed and looks like this:

It should be a direct "plug and play" swap, as nothing inside the Tip is programable, all that stuff is outside in the unit's control module. The trans will probably have to go thru an adaptation relearn afterwards, but that just requires a "reset" not unlike zeroing the trip odometer. Most Porsche scan tools can handle it if it is required.

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You should be fine with just the two on the flywheel end of the engine. Wicking Loctite is a special product, green in color, and is highly recommended as it not only locks the center bolt nut, but totally stops oil walking down the bolt threads onto your clutch and flywheel, but note that the center bolt threads, and the nut need to be cleaned with brake cleaner or other solvent before assembly and application of the 290: And for future reference, the tensioner under the AC can be removed with either an open-end wrench or a crow's foot; there is just enough room to get it out without moving anything. 😉

I would be willing to bet you already have power to the harness, otherwise you would be getting an "open circuit" code, which you do not have currently, and the vehicle has gone into "limp mode". The code you are getting is pretty specific, the solenoid is not moving when it should, which also implies power in the system. You have a jammed solenoid, which needs replacing. When one jams, it is a good idea to replace them all, as one usually follows the others. A full set (aftermarket) retails in the $400 range, plus labor and fluid. Just be aware Porsche does not sell solenoids by themselves, they will tell you that you need a new transmission. Most aftermarket shops simply replace the entire valve body with solenoids with a rebuilt unit with new solenoids, ($700-800 for the unit) which usually fixes the problems. Ninety-nine times out of one hundred, problems like this result from Porsche's ridiculous tip oil service intervals; the trans should get fresh fluid and a filter at least every 45-50K miles. Overview of wiring harness -1- - Shift solenoid valve (S1) -2- - Plug connection for output shaft speed inductive pickup -2a- - Cable routing for output shaft speed inductive pickup -3- - Oil pressure switch 2 for transmission (omit in MY 2006) -4- - Oil pressure switch 1 for transmission (omit in MY 2006) -5- - Shift solenoid valve UK (modulation pressure) -6- - Input shaft speed (turbine speed) inductive pickup -7- - ATF temperature sensor -8- - Modulation pressure solenoid valve (main) -9- - Shift solenoid valve C1 (modulation pressure -10- - Shift solenoid valve C3 (modulation pressure) -11- - Shift solenoid valve B1 (modulation pressure) -12- - Shift solenoid valve C2 (modulation pressure) -13- - Shift solenoid valve (S2)

Unfortunately, a stuck or dead solenoid looks exactly like a brand new one right out of the box; the problem is internal.

Welcome to RennTech Located under the plastic engine covers, just above the rear of the cam covers near the firewall. There are two, one on each side.

No, not to my knowledge.

Crank thrust bearings generally do not make noise, when they fail, the crank journal adjacent to the thrust bearing simply tears up the engine case. Clicking sounds under acceleration on these cars is often one of the CV joints going bad. And long before allowing whoever is providing diagnostics on this car to empty the owner's wallet any further, there is a tool called the "electronic ear", which mounts multiple remote sound sensors on the vehicle before it is taken out for a test run. Any decent shop should have one and can precisely isolate sounds sources very quickly.

You need to remove the tensioners for a very simple reason: If you do not, and try to pull the IMS flange cover off, the IMS shaft (which is still under considerable tension load) will jump upwards and to the right, often jumping time in the process. Even if it does not jump time, you will not be able to reinstall the flange cover because of the IMS shaft position. Not removing the tensioners is one of the things that get people in trouble. We do not replace the engine case bolts unless the look problematic (seeping).