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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Try manually configuring the car using the Durametric instead of letting go on its own and see if the code is still there. When I do a manual configuration for your car on my system, my header (Pro system, version 6.3.1.7) reads "(2005-2012 Porsche 911 997)". We have noticed that some cars with build dates late in one model year or very early in the next can do some strange things on the Durametric, which may have more to do with Porsche than Durametric. I just had a very late 2001 model year 986 Boxster (one owner car with complete service records, so we are sure it has not been modified) on the system, and if you let it self configure, you get a indication for an ABS system code. But the car is fine, and there are no MIL light illuminated, and a quick scan shows no codes. When we pulled up the car configuration chart, the system had selected ABS/DSC/PSM 5.3, which is correct for a 2001 986. Only problem is that the car appears to have a 5.7 version of the system in it (which would be correct for a 2002 year car), so when 5.3 is selected, Durametric says there is a problem. Change the selection, problem disappears. We don't see this frequently, but it is consistent to specific cars, and as long as you know it is there, it does not constitute any problems with diagnosing or clearing codes.
  2. JFP in PA
    How much would you be willing to bet? I can take a screenshot :-) But here's a question... Given that I had intermittent right beam motor actions (using the Durametric), and that now the motor is stuck in position. Also given that I have no sensor faults so the control unit should be getting the signals it needs to move the beams up and down....... and given that both motors stick in the lowest position under normal operating conditions..... Doesn't it sound like the control unit to you? It is a reasonable assumption to start there; if you have a buddy with a similarly equipped car, you might want to "borrow" his control unit for a few min. to test as the replacement unit is well north of $100 and cannot be returned. And there is still the possibility that Loren's post tests will still be required as it can still be a servo out.
  3. JFP in PA
    HBA codes are for the High Beam Adjustment of the Litronics servo motors. I would be willing to bet the codes actually read something like this: HBA 011 Fault2 Engine path, right If that is correct, the Durametric just told you that HBA 01 points to a problem with the High Beam Adjustment on the right side of the car. Typical possible fault causes: Short circuit to ground or open circuit in the circuit between [the] control module and servomotor for HBA, left; servomotor for HBA, right, is faulty; or the the control module itself is faulty. You either have an electrical issue (loose connector, frayed wiring, etc.) with one or both lights, one or more weak servo motors that move the lights, or the headlight control module itself is on the way out. Not bad for $297 diagnostics tool, otherwise you would have needed a PST II or a PIWIS to tell you the same thing, but they cost a lot more ...............................
  4. JFP in PA
    +1, I think he has the software set to the wrong vehicle description, which will yield strange and/or misleading information with the Durametric system.
  5. JFP in PA
    We did you refill with the Pentosin ATF-1? To my knowledge, the OEM fluid is still an ESSO product ( ATF LT 71141 fluid) and is the only one approved for 1999-2001 Tip transmissions. There are a lot of aftermarket companies claiming to have compatible fluids, but Porsche has remained very specific on both manufacturer's (Esso, Fuchs and Shell) and fluid types for these gearboxes.
  6. JFP in PA
    Pentosin is after market, Porsche has theirs compounded to their specific OEM specs. There has been much speculation over exactly what it is, but as it is readily available, works very well, but has a reputation for not being overly compatible with some aftermarket coolants, you would need to be cautious about mixing. As a fresh batch of OEM coolant premixed with distilled water lasts for many years in a clean system, we stay with what we know works,
  7. JFP in PA
    Do you have the actual code numbers?
  8. JFP in PA
    Two ways, one using a set of special cable clamp pliers: You can also unbolt the tank from the bulkhead and pull it into the trunk a bit to gain access.
  9. JFP in PA
    Here is a fairly detailed DIY from the DIY archive at the top of the page, the author chose to use an aftermarket coolant, but it would still be the same for a 50/50 OEM coolant/distilled water mix............ http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/301-996-complete-coolant-flush-diy/
  10. JFP in PA
    Have you checked the TSB archives to see if there is any information about needing to replace both pumps?
  11. JFP in PA
    I think you are going to find that many shops are reluctant to undertake an already diassembled project; there are always issuse with missing bits, broken parts, etc. that just cannot be figured into an estimate. These are never fun.........
  12. JFP in PA
    No video that I am aware of, a lot of the TSB's are available at the top of the page to contributing members under the "DIY Tools" tab. The TSB will tell you what it is all about and the new part numbers for the replacement parts, but it is not a tutorial on how to do it.
  13. JFP in PA
    Could be a fuel pressure issue (the 2005 has an integrated fuel filter in the pump assembly, so it cannot be changed without doing the pump). Easy to test (there is a fuel pressure test port on one fuel rail that you hook a gauge up to for testing). I would get it flat bedded to somewhere where it can be tested.
  14. JFP in PA
    To my knowledge, there is nothing in changing the battery that will trap the key in the ignition; most likely, you can get that out by moving the steering wheel back and forth while turning it. But as inserting the key activates certain systems, you should not have left it in while disconnecting the battery. Work on getting the key out, make sure everything is turned off, and reconnect the battery; you should be fine.
  15. JFP in PA
    Moe often than not, problems associated with heat are cable related rather than battery or alternator (in fact, the battery actually becomes more powerful with heat). Usually, loose cable ends, and/or high resistance in the cables from internal corrosion, cause poor cranking or low voltage when hot problems. 996's are infamous for this, and I believe there is a TSB about updated cables to address this specific issue. Not an expensive fix, but requires a bit of time due to how the cables are routed. Heat can also impact the voltage regulator if it is already weak. Fortunately, the regulator is a $40-50 item (get it from VW or online rather than the dealer) and an easy swap with alternator already out. You could have your alternator shop test the entire system and replace what is required as well. We prefer the highest CCA you can throw at the car, simply because it controls how the car will spin over, particularly in the cold. Our standard recommendation for CCA is the 800 amp Optima's.
  16. JFP in PA
    Try 7198 or 7288
  17. JFP in PA
    Try 7188
  18. JFP in PA
    Try 9627. You can find the "how to" either in your owner's manual or on Becker's website.
  19. JFP in PA
    There is a specific forum for radio code requests, please use it................... http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/14539-lost-radio-code-post-your-request-here/page-310?hl=radio#entry232891
  20. JFP in PA
    Actually, Porsche uses a bridge bar above the engine to slightly lift and support it until a cradle that bolts to the engine is attached from below to lower the engine out of the car; Use of a jack is an aftermarket adaptation to circumvent spending the money for the specialized tools. That said, I see no reason you cannot swap out the housing without pulling the engine, but you are going to have to remove some stuff and support the engine from above to get at it: As mentioned above, this is also an excellent time to carefully check out the oil pump for signs of wear, replace it if necessary, add the chrome molly replacement pump drive from LN (the OEM drive is a known weak point and is an engine killer when it fails, so the $20 or so for the bullet proof replacement is cheap insurance). As the cooling system is open, this is also an excellent time for the LN 160F stat and a new water pump as you are already in there.
  21. JFP in PA
    First of all, anyone that uses a hollow alloy water jacket casting as a jacking or lifting point is clearly out of their mind, they crack very easily. Secondly, in order to get a good weld bead (Mig or Tig) on this alloy part, it needs to be immaculately clean and dry, which means taking it out of the car to be prepped. At that point, it would probably be cheaper as well as a better idea to just toss it an install a new housing.
  22. JFP in PA
    Anytime...................
  23. JFP in PA
    Yes, it should be pink/orange in color; in about 2002-2003, Porsche reformulated their coolant and the color changed from green to the pink/orange version. Both types are fully compatible with each other and can be mixed without issue.
  24. JFP in PA
    Only if there is a problem with the existing coolant (e.g.: wrong coolant added, coolant contaminated, very dirty, etc.), otherwise dump the system (you will only get around 90-95% of it out without taking most of the car apart, so don't be overly concerned about how much drains), then refill (highly recommend doing so under vacuum) with premixed Porsche coolant and distilled water (very important) at a 50/50 ratio. You will be good to go for a long time.
  25. JFP in PA
    From what I understand, the low voltage of the 9V will barely illuminate the lights. The trick here is to not take all day changing the battery, which should allow the 9V to hold the settings without crapping out in the process. I know the maintainer keep them illuminated, but it has a lot more voltage available.
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