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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. As noted, that would be both expensive due to getting the Immobilizer codes plus the alternate DME itself. If Promoitve cannot help you as noted by Silver_TT, I would just dump the program and be done with it; we have never been a fan of these aftermarket software for multiple reasons ranging from emissions problems like you are experiencing to the software causing misleading general diagnostics problems (these things often create bogus outputs to keep the car from coding, so when you are trying to find a problem you never know what data is real and what isn't). At the end of the day, before and after dyno pulls have shown that many of the supposed power gains often grossly over stated and are marginal at best. These programs are also the kiss of death to any OEM warranty as Porsche has put a draconian automatic system in the PIWIS network that can easily catch modified DME coding and promptly kill the warranty world wide in seconds. As the result of these problems, we look at aftermarket software as a "deduct" item on cars we get in for PPI...............
  2. All these codes indicate an interruption of the signal from the DME to the injector coils. OEM manual procedure is to check the individual injector wire harness from the injector to the DME using the infamous 9616 pin out box, looking are resistance and voltage. While this could be a wiring issue (like rodent damage), because all the injectors are out, it may also be a DME issue. you would rule out the fuel pump correct..thanks for the quick reply A fuel pump failure is not going to cause a communications issue with all six injectors. You can quickly rule out the fuel pump as an additional problem candidate by connecting an appropriate fuel pressure test gauge to the test port on the fuel rail, if it generates pressure and delivery rates within specs, there is nothing wrong with it.
  3. While the TPMS can be shut off, very few shops would do so because of the liability exposure for defeating a Federally mandated safety system. Simply is not worth it...........
  4. All these codes indicate an interruption of the signal from the DME to the injector coils. OEM manual procedure is to check the individual injector wire harness from the injector to the DME using the infamous 9616 pin out box, looking are resistance and voltage. While this could be a wiring issue (like rodent damage), because all the injectors are out, it may also be a DME issue.
  5. True enough, but I think it is in the poster's interest to see what Wayne has worked out to address this question.
  6. I'd suggest this is a question that should be posted on one of Wayne's forums to answer as it is his product.
  7. If that's the case, expect to pay about $100 for the CPS, which may or may not be the issue, but could be both quickly and easily tested and eliminated without the expense...............
  8. As I noted, the mechanics are not that difficult or complicated, it is purely a matter of where your head and your wallet are at, and your comfort level.
  9. I'd start by checking the circuits on that fuse for a short to ground, it is not uncommon to pinch or abrade a wire doing an engine install.
  10. If you run a search, you will probably find more data on the subject than you really wanted; this is a common DIY project.
  11. Physically, neither is hard to replace with decent tools, although there is some stuff in the way. That said, when AC mechanical components are replaced, you also need to adjust the oil level is the system (Porsche actually has a chart listing how much oil should be in which component). You will also need the correct lubricant (typically PAG oil) to wet the seals on component connections when reassembling (you cannot use just any oil for this). Once assembled, it needs to be leak tested under vacuum to make sure none of the connections you touched are leaking before refilling with gas. Most shops, mine included, will not warranty a recharge if we did not do the parts swap, too many potential issues outside our control. So, at the end of the day, you have to ask yourself how much risk you are willing to absorb in trying to save the money.
  12. Please do not double post, it is a violation of forum rules.
  13. Here ya go: Excessive resistance, particularly in the ground straps, is a well documented problem with these cars. Porsche has even released updated cables to address the issue. Some of the cables are not fun to get at, but when they show signs of problems, they have to be replaced.
  14. I am a bit perplexed by "a humming behind the seats" as the fuel pump is in the fuel tank, ahead of the windshield on a 986. Are you sure you jumpered the relay correctly? Silver_TT is also spot on that you could still have a failing CPS and should be checking that as well before buying parts.
  15. Side of the bell housing, the sensor reads teeth the on the back of the flywheel to determine engine rotational position.
  16. And this is where it is and what it looks like on a non Turbo 996:
  17. It should be held by a plastic clip in between the intake runners for cylinders 4 and 5.
  18. The man is getting good at this............................................ :thumbup:
  19. You can make a lot of power out these engines without resorting to blowers or hair dryers. Raby has posted some big numbers for 2.9L engines that are pretty reliable, and I understand he has been working on something in the 3.8L range that is a killer as well. But in either case, he has gone through the entire assembly and relpaced all the weak bits first (rods, pistons, cam followers, cylinder liners, etc.) to make them substantially stronger. Even stock 3.2L or 3.4L are a big jump over a stock 2.5L.
  20. Can also be the crank postion sensor, which causes the DME to shut off the fuel pump. You can pull the fuel pump relay and rig a bypass jumer wire to test the circuit without the relay in place (do a search, has been written up before).
  21. There are no "overflows" on these engines, the oil system is sealed because it operates under a slight vacuum (around 5" of water). It also does not take much oil to make one Hell of a mess. Suggest you need to clean off the engine so you can look for where the leak(s) are coming from. Could be the AOS, the oil fill tube, or any number of other places where actuators or sensors come out of the system.
  22. The 2.5L M96 were know for weak cylinder walls, particularly near the bottom (hence D-chunking). We are not fans of taking any M96/97 above atmospheric for a variety of reasons, and the 2.5L least of all.
  23. Glad you got it sorted, now go enjoy both your lady and all that HP under your right foot.........................
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