JFP in PA

Ahsai is correct, it is under the center console.

Are you absolutely sure you put everything back as it should be? You'd be surprised at how many times we resolve a rough running car that just had plugs put in it by pushing the coil pack connectors back on all the way..............

First thing is any pending codes, that will give a better indication if this is some kind of misfire. I would also look at the fuel trims on both banks, as that would show strange A/F due to possible vacuum leaks.

If you have access to the Durametric software, collect some actual values so we can see if anything jumps out.

OK, first of all, you posted this in a section dedicated to diagnostic tools, tricks. and tips; but that is not a problem. I'm going to refer this one to Loren or RFM, both of whom would have a better fix on VIN numbering for different markets...................

No, a rough idle would not be caused by air in the cooling system.

Check the oil pump gears for signs of galling or pitting, if they are, time for a new pump. Also a good time to remove the check valve and spring on the pump housing, clean it out and replace the spring (they lose tension over time).

I think it is an excellent move, the OEM shaft is an investment cast piece and can snap fairly easily, leaving you with no oil pressure. The LN shaft is chrome moly, and actually stronger than the oil pump itself.

You will need a long, flexible nozzle to reach the drains, they are in the corners of the moon roof tray.

Much appreciated (same to everyone who has replied). I drove it low on gas today, and the check engine light turned off without me resetting the code. I haven't verified that the code is still present, but is that possible? Or did the bulb burn out? It's not an AUDI so I doubt the light has been illuminated for that long... I did add a bottle of Techron concentrate at less than 1/8th of a tank and filled it to about 3/4th tank. So far, I put 110-130 miles on it and haven't noticed any problems. I will reattach the Durametric when I get a chance, or should the check engine light re-trigger, sooner to get additional information. Thanks again, all. Many (but not all) codes, and emission related ones in particular, are capable of clearing themselves once the triggering event is gone. Often takes a couple drive cycles to accomplish, but they do clear.

You should be starting the diagnostic process by load testing the battery, if it passes a load test, only then should you be looking at load testing the alternator. You always need to first eliminate the battery from being part of the problem. That said, even a battery with multiple starts on it will not pull the voltage output down on a running alternator; the alternator should be reading 13.5 - 14.5V at idle.

I don't mean to highjack this thread, but I had a couple questions for JFP regarding this specific comment (I don't need this service but am curious). First, do you happen to know what wheel refurbishing companies by name are known to be the best / most capable? It seems there are a number of them out there. Second, what are the success rates for repairing bent wheels from, say, pot holes? Specifically I've read in the past that these wheels need to be heated to a very high temperature by these shops to make them malleable. I've read that on these Porsche soft alloy wheels this can often cause them to crack (maybe more prone on wheels such as the TT hollow spokes). I was just wondering if a really good refurbishing company has high success rates based on your experience...or if this is more of a "your mileage may vary" type of thing. When you read stuff like this you never know how good the individual was that was working on the wheel.......... Who we would go to depends upon the extent of the damage. Simple "curb rash" cosmetic touch up type repairs, we use a local guy that comes out in a specially equipped truck and does the repairs at our shop. For something more serious, we have used both Wheel Enhancement (http://www.wheelenhancement.com/index.php?t=Accessories) or Rimpro (http://www.rimpro.com). The wheels need to be dismounted, boxed up and shipped to them for assessment (not everything is fixable) and repairs. Rimpro seem to be able to handle the more seriously damaged wheels, but both have done very nice work for us in the past. At times, both Wheel Enhancement and Rimpro have told us that a particular wheel cannot be safely repaired, which is fine because you do not want a wheel to look good and then promptly fail on a customer. Both companies are also very good at sourcing replacements for "beyond hope" cases, particularly the odd or hard to find ones. As this is a pretty popular repair, I'm sure there are many other competent rim repair shops around the country as well, so asking your local PCA chapter for a recommendation would also be a good idea.

At one time, Porsche tended to put unactivated options in cars simply because is was less expensive to do so. A good example is the fact that all early 986 Boxsters had the on-board computer in them, but cars that were ordered without the option did not have it activated or the extra stalk behind the steering wheel. By adding the stalk, and turning on the option in the DME, you actually saved money over ordering it in the car. Was also a favorite mod for used Boxsters.

For a lot of years, I was a senior executive with what was then one of the major players ($1B+ NYSE listed firm) in the lead acid battery business over here, before I started my own business.

On a 2005 car, TPMS may have been an option rather than a standard feature. I think it became standard in 2007. That said, look at your tire valve stems where they stick out of the wheel; if they are metal and have a nut below the fill cap, they are TPMS sensors. If they are just black rubber, your wheels have no TPMS sensors in them: It is entirely possible that you had a dash with the option for TPMS included in it originally, and now do not.

You can do that, provided you either have, or can fabricate the tool required to take the thermostat out of the housing. To do a clean install on the third radiator, you will also need to fab up some adaptors as the "S" cars have different diameter hoses and lines in the front of the car. There is also a really neat work around for this, a company called Precision Chassis Works makes modified front hard lines that have he hose size adaptor already welded in: They sell these lines complete,or will do yours. They also sell a kit for those with aluminum welding skills. You can read more here: http://www.precisionchassisworks.com/boxster-cooling-line-modification.html Thanks for the info but Is there a benefit to using the LN water neck? Is the OEM prone to crack? I thought when you bought the radiator kit it came with the new hoses. http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/996thirdradia.html?Category_Code=996WaterCooling The LN housing is much like the factory, but with subtle refinements. Nice unit, but if you are on a budget, you can use the factory piece, and they are not prone to cracking. The 3rd radiator kit does come with hoses, but they are larger in inside diameter than the ones on your car. The cars that came factory with the 3rd radiator have larger diameter hoses and aluminum hard lines; the hoses that come with the kit will not seal to your hard lines due to the size difference and they will leak, which is why Precision came up with this fix. And they are replacement hard lines, not hoses.

Loren is correct, there is a wealth of information about the capabilities of the Durametric system on their website, and as well as an extensive table of specifics on their capabilities for each Porsche model (the system's abilities do vary with both model and year). You also need to note that some functions that used to be universal on both the "enthusiast" and "pro" systems are now limited to the Pro model only, but these differences are slight and most DIY users would probably not use some of these functions anyway as they are more "esoteric" in what they do.

It is a knock off of an early Durametric system, and one of the reasons Durametric changed their cables to a newer design. Your cable will only run some of the oldest, buggiest, and least capable software, which is also a clone and of unknown quality so it could actually damage your DME. Silver_TT has a very valid point; buying these things financially undermines one of the only firms supporting the entire Porsche community, no one else is doing the development work Durametric has committed to, and is supporting the DIY market in particular. With a real Durametric system, if you have a question or problem, help is only a phone call or email away, and always free.

You can do that, provided you either have, or can fabricate the tool required to take the thermostat out of the housing. To do a clean install on the third radiator, you will also need to fab up some adaptors as the "S" cars have different diameter hoses and lines in the front of the car. There is also a really neat work around for this, a company called Precision Chassis Works makes modified front hard lines that have he hose size adaptor already welded in: They sell these lines complete,or will do yours. They also sell a kit for those with aluminum welding skills. You can read more here: http://www.precisionchassisworks.com/boxster-cooling-line-modification.html

Your voltage is a bit low, it should be between 13.5 and 14.5V with the engine running. Could just be the voltage regulator, but I would get the alternator checked out.

Yes, common occurrence, your old defective AOS probably deposited a bit of oil inside your intake system and it is starting to come out. You can either let it burn off (may take quite a bit of time, depending upon how much oil is in there), or pull the intake system off an clean it. I cleaned the air distributors out while i was changing the AOS and on start up I didn't have much smoke, which then went to none very quickly. Then after about 8.5 miles it started smoking and air distributors have oil in them again. Same symptoms as before, with pouring smoke and rough running. Pulled the throttle body off and air distributors are full with oil again. Check the new AOS by trying to remove the oil fill cap with the car idling, it should come off with little effort. If it is hard to get off, the new AOS is a dud.

No, air in the cooling system will result in overheating, coolant dumps when steam pockets form, etc. The rough idle is coming from something else.

Porsche uses a unique full synthetic gear oil that is made for them to their specs, which no other manufacturer use. Several aftermareket oil companies have admitted that they do not have a match for it. Several of our customers have experimented with several aftermarket brands, but always went back to the OEM stuff due to excessive noise, and poor shifting problems. As soon as the OEM stuff was back in the car, the problems went away. I'm sure someone will chime in here and tell us they have used brand X or Y and not had problems, but that has not been our experience, and we change a lot of gear oil.

It may have been possible to have one of the wheel refurbishers fix them, they can often work wonders' particularly on hard to replace or match wheels.

I would, it should not lose any pressure.