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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    StaBil is a great product for cars in storage as it will keep the gas fresh for up to two years. I think the problem in your case was the gas had started to go off before you added the StaBil.
  2. JFP in PA
    A siphon is about your only option, or some flame proof pumping system. Be careful with the siphon hose that is does not become caught on anything inside the tank or filler neck. The small amount of StaBil will not alter the color or smell of the gas,
  3. JFP in PA
    Has to be a coincidence, there is nothing in common between the seats and the cruise.
  4. JFP in PA
    I ordered a complete seal/gasket set, mechanic suggested resealing the motor... exhaust gaskets, valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube seals, timing chain seals, cam seals and so on... ordering new water pump, drive belt, thermostat.... whats the AOS? Air Oil Separator, with the car apart, it is a simple install, when together (especially on a Tip car) it is a royal pain. And there are no cam cover (or oil pan) gaskets, they used a Loctite sealant, and there are no timing chain seals as the chains are entirely inside the engine.
  5. JFP in PA
    Rear main seal, IMS upgrade, water pump, oil fill tube, 160F thermostat, new AOS at a minimum.
  6. JFP in PA
    Start by checking your fuel pressure and delivery rates, and when was the last time you changed the fuel filter on the car? Another possibility is a crank position sensor on the way out.
  7. JFP in PA
    Silver_TT is correct; both ABS and PSM MIL lights are not uncommon when one of these cars goes into a low voltage situation, and they typically clear themselves once the voltage is back up and require no further attention.
  8. JFP in PA
    What you need to do is have the car diagnosed on a Porsche specific system; swapping around the sensors is more effort than it is worth when you can plug in a computer and see how they are doing. Get the car checked.
  9. JFP in PA
    P1324 is the big one here, that indicates that the intake cam on Bank 2 timing is below the lower limit, meaning the cam is out of time. One problem is that many "generic" OBD II scanners spit out ghost codes along with the real ones. If the car was in my shop, I would run the cam deviations values (spec is +/- 6 degrees) to see where they really are. That requires the use of a PST II, PIWIS, or the Durametric diagnostic tools to accomplish. Either a cam position sensor has gone bad, or more likely one of the VarioCam components on that bank is on the way out. All of these systems can test the VarioCam components on the car as well. Because you do not know if the problem is a major shift in cam timing or not, I would not be driving the car at all, and would suggest flat bedding it to a shop with the correct tools to do the diagnostics. If the cam really has moved beyond the lower limit, you could be only a few degrees away from piston to valve contact, which will be fatal.
  10. JFP in PA
    Let's start with the basics: Model year and car model, engine type, and general location of the photos.................
  11. JFP in PA
    When the car spins over, is it making any attempt to start, or just spinning over?
  12. JFP in PA
    While you did not state the actual codes, the one for the cam timing being out on bank 2 is worrisome. Please post your actual codes and the system used to obtain them (Durametric, PIWIS, PST II, OBD II scanner, etc.). The individual bank solenoids can be tested in place with the correct diagnostics tool.
  13. JFP in PA
    How are you testing the plug wires as they are all hidden inside the cam covers? Are you just testing for voltage going to the coil packs or are you actually testing the high voltage side of the coils for discharge? I am trying to understand your problem by understanding what you have tested and how...........
  14. JFP in PA
    How did you determine it has fuel pressure and spark?
  15. JFP in PA
    You do realize that you are asking a question on a thread that has been dormant for 4 years................
  16. JFP in PA
    This happens to be from a VW Tiptronic, but the principals are the same: And this is the actual valve body out of a 996 tip:
  17. JFP in PA
    You are "hijacking" a thread that has be dormant for nearly seven years, so don't expect a quick response. A quick and obvious solution is to remove the LED bulbs, they have a different resistance than incandescent bulbs and often cause issues when used on circuits not designed for them.
  18. JFP in PA
    It sounds like it may be one of these "hidden" installs where there are sensors in the front and rear of the car that need to be wired to the inside receiver.
  19. JFP in PA
    It is much like building a ship in a bottle; patience is the critical tool.
  20. JFP in PA
    I always go back to the last thing touched when codes sudden show up. As mentioned, P0455 is the "large leak" EVAP system code, which obviously includes the gas tank; one neat trick in this department: Jury rig a rubber stopper or something similar to replace the gas cap (we actually took a new cap, drilled and tapped a hole in it that we then screwed in a threaded fitting to connect to a vacuum gauge) and check for a steady low vacuum on the tank with the car idling. If it is intermittent, or non existent, or worse yet there is pressure, there is a leak somewhere that has to be tracked down. (Emphasis added) You can still have a loose connection on the O2 sensors as a vacuum leak is more prone to cause the car to throw overly lean O2 codes rather than a poor electrical connection code. Simply ingenious! Thanks for the tip. I'm going to add it to my limited diagnostic bag of tricks! :thankyou: Regards, Maurice. I have my moments; also did something similar for the oil fill to check the AOS.
  21. JFP in PA
    Um, I am familiar with the oil seal arbors that Sir sells for Porsche, and to my knowledge they do not have the correct one for the PTFE RMS seal. Which arbor number did you purchase? I have the P250 tool. The seal fits nicely on the tool. That may be, but I think that tool is for the seal design prior to the PTFE seals used now; if it is, it will set the seal at the wrong depth, which is critical. I think you need to check with Sir to be sure it is machined to set the PTFE seal.
  22. JFP in PA
    Um, I am familiar with the oil seal arbors that Sir sells for Porsche, and to my knowledge they do not have the correct one for the PTFE RMS seal. Which arbor number did you purchase?
  23. JFP in PA
    Pedro, correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't your flow diagram show the oil to the DOF adaptor passing through the oil galleys on one cylinder bank before it reaches the adaptor in the lower portion of your diagram?
  24. JFP in PA
    That is actually the point of the discussion, some use "just filtered oil" while others do not. And, perhaps more importantly, where is the oil coming from, and what other component's may be suffering as the direct result. While I do not want to encourage an online pissing contest between the designers of these systems, I do want car owners to stop and think about how these different designs function before spending their hard earned cash.......
  25. JFP in PA
    Do you know if this is a common problem with Boxsters? I plan on taking it to my local porsche independent mechanic to have it checked. When you say expensive, how expensive are we talking about? Thanks for your reply, Gilbert Not common, but not unheard of either. The throttle body is about $300 or so at retail, the throttle pedal potentiometer is in the $100 or so range. You need to know which one is the problem before swapping out parts.
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