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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    When was the last time the gear oil was changed, and what brand/type of oil is in the gear box?
  2. JFP in PA
    We like the Denso plugs and have had very good luck with them on "plug killers" like the turbo. The fact that they are one of the longest lived plug on the market is also a positive as the turbo cars are a multi hour job to change plugs because of everything that has to come off the car to get at the plugs.
  3. JFP in PA
    We like the Denso plugs and have had very good luck with them on "plug killers" like the turbo. The fact that they are the longest lived plug on the market is also a positive as the turbo cars are a multi hour job to change plugs.
  4. JFP in PA
    You have to be careful to get all the air out of the system, air pockets are really bad for these alloy engine cases as they thermally stress components like cylinder heads and can cause them to crack. You might want to check your area PCA chapter to see if someone can help you out with the vacuum system, with one of these units refilling the system with no chance of air pockets is a 5 min. job.
  5. JFP in PA
    They get old and tired. Make sure you get enough hose to replace it (it goes all the way to the coolant tank) and is a very important component in keeping your cooling system air free. Also get screw type clamps for both ends to replace the factory spring clamps. You will also need to bleed your cooling system after recharging it with a 50/50mix of the OEM coolant (only) and distilled water if you do not have a vacuum filling setup.
  6. JFP in PA
    18-20 PSIG max., the system has to hold for at least 15 min. with no drop off at all. You should also be testing your cap under the same conditions.
  7. JFP in PA
    Take a look at the coolant bleed hose that runs off the top of the oil cooler, make sure it has not failed. You might just get away cheap here...........
  8. JFP in PA
    Look over all the hoses exposed during this, vacuum lines in particular that run under the intake. If any look questionable, now would be the time to change them out. As the coolant is out of the car, and if your water pump is old (more than 40-50K on it), this would also be an excellent opportunity for a new OEM water pump and a 160F thermostat to help the car run cooler. I'd also take a good look at the cables on the B+ junction box for signs of corrosion; if they look bad, now would be the time.
  9. JFP in PA
    That looks more like it. Be careful with aftermarket injectors, they are not always what they claim to be. There are firms that do excellent refurbishing of the injectors all over the country that will tell you quickly if one or more cannot be saved, but that rarely happens if the car is just off on mixture. I would suggest that while you have the car apart. do them all as you don't want to be doing this twice. Before you take it apart, if you have not done so already, run out the gas in the tank, and then dose the new tank of fuel with a bottle of Techron (get the large one for 20 gallon tanks), and take the car for a prolonged hard run at highway speeds. You could just have varnish on one or two injector pintles that is causing the issue, and the Techron dose may clean it out.
  10. JFP in PA
    Not sure the Bentley is online anywhere, but it is a worthwhile purchase for the DIY'er. You will also need a low range torque wrench to reassemble everything, the oil cooler bolts are a mere 7 ft. lb. (use some mid strength thread locker on them). An inch pound wrench would be ideal.
  11. JFP in PA
    There is a bit stuff in the way (if you have access to the Bentley 996 manual, there are several pages of detailed instructions with pictures starting on page 17-6). After draining the coolant, you need to move the power steering reservoir and pump (siphon out the fluid first), disconnect the battery and move the B+ junction box, and then unbolt the AC compressor (no need to vent the gas) and move it aside, and then remove the right side intake manifold. You should now be able to look down at the cooler and see the four small bolts holding the cooler in place.
  12. JFP in PA
    Your red circle is at the base of the oil cooler, which is an oil to water system connected to your cooling loop. While extremely effective, these coolers do develop leaks, often from the O-rings at the base where they attach to the engine case. Sometimes the cooler itself goes bad. In any case, they are simple to remove (four bolts) and are not that expensive (around $200 or so) if you need a new one. If you are going to remove it, you need to drain the cooling system first, undo the four bolts and lift the unit very slightly while sliding a plastic bag under it (they retain a fair amount of coolant in them, and when removed from the engine and tilted, the coolant runs out all over the place, often into the now exposed oil passages for the cooler, and you end up having to flush your oil system out as well. The plastic bag is there just to catch this coolant.) before trying to lift it out of the engine bay. Always replace the four O-rings (two different sizes) when removing the cooler, they are single use seals and cannot be reused.
  13. JFP in PA
    The vehicle doesn't already have an immobilizer system in it? Immobilizers shut off multiple electrical and electronic functions making it very difficult to get it running............
  14. JFP in PA
    Changing the coolant tank should not alter how the car runs. That said, when you say the coolant drained out, did you overheat the car? Overheating these engines is a major problem. It is also possible that in the process of refitting the tank, something was disturbed that should not have been. If you had this done by a shop, I would not hesitate to take it back for them to check out.
  15. JFP in PA
    We install plugs just about everyday of the week, we use anti-seize on all of them, and torque them to specs with torque wrenches that are regularly tested for calibration. In all the years we have been doing this, we have never had a plug come loose. Do it properly, and there should be no issues.
  16. JFP in PA
    Problem is that without specific codes, you have to rely on real time data readings (fuel trims, boost data, throttle position data, etc.) to tell you what is happening when it occurs. This is particularly important on turbo cars because increased level of complications in the system. Something like the Durametric system can supply you with real time throttle position data to tell you what your e-gas system is doing at any moment in time. Without this information, you are reduced to guessing what is happening.
  17. JFP in PA
    There are two adjustments for the 986 parking brake, one is under the center console, the other is inside the rear rotors, so the wheels have to come off. The correct adjustment procedure is to loose the cable turnbuckle under the console until the cables are just slack, then turn the star wheel in the rear rotor (you reach it through one of the lug openings in the rotor. You loosen the star wheels on both sides until the wheels turn freely (usually 8-9 notches), then raise the parking brake lever two clicks. Now tighten the turnbuckle under the console until the rear rotors can only be turned with difficulty on both sides (may require playing with one of the star wheel adjusters so both side match). Release the parking brake and make sure the rotors turn freely. If they do, put everything back together and go have a cold one........
  18. JFP in PA
    At relatively low RPM's the MAF has little impact on how the car would drive. I would strongly suggest before spending money that is potentially unnecessary, you get the car scanned with a Porsche specific system (PIWIS or Durametric) which can tell you a lot of real time parameters concerning mixture control, throttle position, and boost; as well as looking for potential pending codes that may be related. Too many people start swapping out expensive parts unnecessarily simply because they did not do simple diagnostics first. Get the car checked out, it could be something else entirely.......
  19. JFP in PA
    Yes, common occurrence, your old defective AOS probably deposited a bit of oil inside your intake system and it is starting to come out. You can either let it burn off (may take quite a bit of time, depending upon how much oil is in there), or pull the intake system off an clean it.
  20. JFP in PA
    Put a dab of high temp synthetic brake grease (couple bucks online or at any competent parts store) on the dampeners before you put them on the pads; don't go nuts here, just a dab. It will hold them in place while installing the pads and actually helps dampen noise as well.
  21. JFP in PA
    Just an example but I was recently looking for a backup light switch.. Local Dealership quoted $20.96 Porsche MSRP was $16.82 Pelican was $19.99 Sunset was $12.31 I sure you can guess where I got the switch from... +1 Exactly the point............
  22. JFP in PA
    Sorry, but that is anything but correct, Pelican tends to be high and also pushes aftermarket parts as being factory. Sunset Porsche has the best pricing and service. Give Sunset a call, the sell at retail on a cost + basis and are very hard to beat either on price or service.
  23. JFP in PA
    Sorry, but that is anything but correct, Pelican tends to be high and also pushes aftermarket parts as being factory. Sunset Porsche has the best pricing and service.
  24. JFP in PA
    It is also common for the line that lead to the valve under the intake to become plugged, so it would be advisable to blow it out with some low pressure air after disconnecting it at both ends.
  25. JFP in PA
    It is not uncommon for a generic or "global" OBD II scanner to not see some codes on Porsches; you need to have it scanned with a Porsche specific scanner such as the PIWIS or Durametric system. something like this? http://www.auto-tool-shop.com/porsche-piwis-tester-p-235.html Try Durametric. Much cheaper at $250-ish If you use an Android phone, you can get a $15 OBDII bluetooth scanner and the $5 Torque App. Leave the scanner in the car and plug it in as soon as the CEL is ON. It sounds like you had some misfires that cleared out by the time you tried to read the codes. it definitly did not set a hard code that the typical obdIII scanner could see. car shows no codes off two different scanners, I will contact Durametric today and see if they can read any pending codes or codes not hard set. wow its been a while since I did any of this (pre '95) Porsche uses a fairly unique programing system in their DME, which is why a lot of systems have trouble reading codes. Even systems designed for VW and Audi, a sister company of Porsche, cannot read or clear several types of codes on a Porsche. Because of this problem, it is also not unusual for non Porsche specific systems to read codes that are not real as well.
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