JFP in PA

(1). You have air trapped in the cooling system, and you need to get it out before it kills your engine. There are DIY's on how to do this, so do a search. (2) You need to scan the car for codes related to the ABS and TC systems to find out why the MIL is lit. (3) Same goes for the locking system.1.) okay trying to remove air bubbles out by bleeding and cleaning radiator. Hopefully it solves the overheating problem2.) durametric cant seem to scan codes for ABS and Tc off. What could be the problem?3.) central lock limit not reached or something similar. What to do next?Thanks again!! Be sure to get all the air out, best way is to pull a vacuum on the system. Durametric should be able to see the ABS and TC systems unless either there is a problem with the version of the Durametric software, or the ABS system controller is disconnected or non functional. I'd check the controller to make sure the connectors are tight first. One of your door lock's switches is not reaching the lock position. Could be it needs its electrical connection seated, or the switch unit in the door may need to be replaced. 1.) Ok, cleaning radiator now, crazy dirty. I am hoping it is the clogged radiator causing the overheating and not engine problem 2.) The mechanic was using the Launch X431 GDS, and it says it can't connect to the ABS. Where is the ABS System controller by the way? Basically when I start the car, ABS and TC OFF light is not on, then when you run it for 1-2 seconds, it pops up. So I wanna know where the ABS System is cause maybe it is disconnected or something. 3.) Uhm sorry how do you check if the switch is not reaching the position? uhm where is the electrical connection? It actually works when the keys are not plugged in the ignition. Again, Thanks in advance guys! (Oh btw brake lights are all working) Clean out the radiators and see where your engine temps are. You need to use a Porsche specific system, Durametric, PST II, or PIWIS only. The switch is inside the door by the lock mechanism.

The Metzger lump is by far one of the best designs they produced, both powerful and durable. The glued in water connections is just one of those "bad ideas" that all OEM's are prone to on occasion when trying to keep costs down.

Have someone stand behind your car and see if your brake lights are working. A bad brake light switch can cause both lights to come on. Good catch.................

Unfortunately, yes. There are only a few pathways for oil to enter the coolant on the 996; the oil cooler and AOS are common. If that did not address the issue, your next step should be to have the coolant system pressure tested, looking for signs of leakage. I would also pull all the spark plugs, looking for one or more that seem unusually clean. If you find that, I would either bore scope and/or run a leak down on those cylinders, looking for signs of a cracked head.

An occasional puff is a normal "feature" of the flat six engine design. However, if it happens all the time, it could be the start of the AOS going out.

There's more than 3 pipes -- there are 3 for the water pump housing alone.... Should be more like 8 pipes. See this thread by jpflip, which is a very good reference on this topic (including all parts with part #s): http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/267584-coolant-pipe-repair-parts-needed.html Silver_TT is correct, there are eight in total.

We have the round connector because we never know what is going to roll in the door next.

(1). You have air trapped in the cooling system, and you need to get it out before it kills your engine. There are DIY's on how to do this, so do a search. (2) You need to scan the car for codes related to the ABS and TC systems to find out why the MIL is lit. (3) Same goes for the locking system.1.) okay trying to remove air bubbles out by bleeding and cleaning radiator. Hopefully it solves the overheating problem2.) durametric cant seem to scan codes for ABS and Tc off. What could be the problem?3.) central lock limit not reached or something similar. What to do next?Thanks again!! Be sure to get all the air out, best way is to pull a vacuum on the system. Durametric should be able to see the ABS and TC systems unless either there is a problem with the version of the Durametric software, or the ABS system controller is disconnected or non functional. I'd check the controller to make sure the connectors are tight first. One of your door lock's switches is not reaching the lock position. Could be it needs its electrical connection seated, or the switch unit in the door may need to be replaced.

Considering what happened the first time, most people either go for the pinned (which is also glued) or welded approaches as they both assure the parts will not move as they are mechanically locked in place. Some also remain concerned that even with the pins, eventually the glue line will fail again and you will still have leaks. Going welded or threaded eliminates any possibility of that happening. As you are going to need to drop the engine in any case, may as well do it right and do it once.........

You have the fairly well known problem of the cooling hose fittings coming loose from their mating parts. There are companies that offer solutions ranging from pinning your existing fittings, to welded units that replace them. Either solution requires dropping the engine to get at all the fittings in the car. Kits range from do it your self welding of new connectors: DIY pin systems using bolts: Threaded hose end replacements: A lot of tracks now require one of these fixes before a Turbo or GT car is allow to run.

Running a high dose added in a single tank of fuel quite often cleans up a lot of little issues, and is a common practice at a lot of shops. That said, changing the oil after running out the tank is a good idea.

The answers are yes, and yes.......... The standard cable is about 8 ft., and you can use a USB extension cable rather than jump for their long cable. We like the shorter cable for using a laptop in the car on mobile tests without a big wad of cable in the car, the longer USB extension is used in the shop to connect to our Dell XPS tower. Combination gives you a lot of flexibility. Buy a good quality USB extension cable, there is some really cheap crap running around, and you want something that will wear well and last. The round connector fits 928, 944S2, 968, 964 or 1994-1995 Porsche 993.

Running the Techron every 3-4K won't hurt anything, and will do a lot to clean up problems in the fuel system. If you suspect a fuel pump delivery problem, hook up a fuel pressure test gauge to the test port on the rail and check your pressure and delivery rates. In particular, you want to watch for pressure bleed down after the engine is shut off, it should hold around 3 bar ten min. after being shut off. Your fuel filter is part of the tank flange, which also contains the valve that prevents bleed down:

(1). You have air trapped in the cooling system, and you need to get it out before it kills your engine. There are DIY's on how to do this, so do a search. (2) You need to scan the car for codes related to the ABS and TC systems to find out why the MIL is lit. (3) Same goes for the locking system.

Immobilizers are a common item in most Porsche models, and very difficult to circumvent in a theft attempt; you might want to check your owner's manual, or with your dealer, to see if yours is so equipped.

Ah, OK..... I used to be VP of Sales and Marketing for C&D Technologies

When the car is in that mode, the hydraulic system is rerouted, which can change the fluid level. You need to fix the reason for the fault, clear the fault, and then run the fluid level check according to the manual.

Sounds like Hawker...........

Ahsai is correct, it is under the center console.

Are you absolutely sure you put everything back as it should be? You'd be surprised at how many times we resolve a rough running car that just had plugs put in it by pushing the coil pack connectors back on all the way..............

First thing is any pending codes, that will give a better indication if this is some kind of misfire. I would also look at the fuel trims on both banks, as that would show strange A/F due to possible vacuum leaks.

If you have access to the Durametric software, collect some actual values so we can see if anything jumps out.

OK, first of all, you posted this in a section dedicated to diagnostic tools, tricks. and tips; but that is not a problem. I'm going to refer this one to Loren or RFM, both of whom would have a better fix on VIN numbering for different markets...................

No, a rough idle would not be caused by air in the cooling system.

Check the oil pump gears for signs of galling or pitting, if they are, time for a new pump. Also a good time to remove the check valve and spring on the pump housing, clean it out and replace the spring (they lose tension over time).