JFP in PA

Any time, Maurice.

As long as the hose is not dry, brittle or hard; just cut a bit off and use it.

There are a lot of lines with barbed fittings used in the automotive markets which do not require clamps; the line is single use (it cannot be pulled off and reused, it has to be cut down past where it last fit on). In fact, you should not use clamps on these barbed fittings as the clamp will cause the line to be cut by the barbs. Here is an example on a Jag, the little metal cup at the end of the hose is permanently on the barbed fitting and is just there to dress the end of the hose; no clamps used:

You have not provided year and model data, but I think the line in your picture is a simple push on and a barbed connection by the fuel pressure regulator.

StaBil has come up with a couple solutions, the well known red product will do an excellent job of preventing fuel from deteriorating during storage, including those that carry up to 10% ethanol in most environments. They recently added the term "Storage" to the label of this product. This is the product we have used very successfully for many years with customer's cars in storage. If you are in a particularly moist area (seaside, etc.), have higher ethanol contents, or for use in marine applications, they now have a blue-green product (labeled "Marine") specifically to address the higher water and corrosion risk while in storage. While this product was designed for more troublesome environments, it can be used for storage in less aggressive conditions as well. They now also have a specific product for diesel applications as well. For most people, particularly if they store their cars in a controlled environment (read heated garage) will do just fine with their familiar red product.

You can get one from Actron for about $50 or so.

As long as it meets the basic configuration requirements that Durametric lists on their site, you are golden..............

A dealer would be in the $150-200 range, and Indy about $120.

It can be run on a Mac, but you need one of those special shells and a full version Windows 7 to do it, which makes it expensive. By a cheap Windows laptop and just grit your teeth................

Have him re check it at 15 min. and 30 min.; if you see drop off, you have a bleed down somewhere in the system, often at the fuel tank flange area, which houses the valve that is supposed to prevent bleed down.

Jeff, what do you recommend then, as a regiment, for the DFI Porsche engines? Thanks. You need to run a good quality fuel, and dose the car with Techron before every oil change. It is also a good idea to get the system "power flushed" with a pressurized cleaning system on a regular basis, and probably at least once a year. DFI engines are a major improvement in both technology and performance, but as usual there is no free lunch............

You need to proceed with caution; you already know that the car has some prior issues, you need a thorough PPI done by someone that knows their stuff before making an offer.

Yes, but be cautious about which bulbs you use, a lot of the aftermarket "brighter bulbs" are higher wattage and can discolor or even melt headlight components.

It does not take much to aggravate these injector systems, just a little build up of varnish or crud is enough to make the car respond. The newer DFI cars are even worse as the injector is in the combustion chamber. Interestingly, cleaning the piston domes tends to actually take performance away. A layer of carbon ash on the piston dome acts as an insulator, helping to hold heat in the combustion chamber longer, yielding better output. This is the basis of technology used by firms like Diamond or Swain who ceramic coat piston domes and cylinder head combustion chambers on race engines.

How about some experience instead? For decades, Porsche has recommended running a dose of Techron in their cars for this exact purpose. We have used in in the shop since the day we opened our doors. Our standard "pre-hibernation" service recommendation's include running a full tank of Techron dosed fuel through the engine just before bringing the car in for its last service of the season in preparation for putting the car away for the winter, which includes an oil and filter change, pre winter battery and coolant system checks, and a full inspection of the car's systems. Afterwards, air up the tires, a full tank of fuel dosed with StaBil, a full cleaning of the car, hook it up to a battery maintainer, and put the dust cover over it until spring. Never had one start the next season with fuel system related issues in more than thirty years. I cannot make that statement about cars that were not dosed with Techron before storage. We sometimes get a poor running car in the shop with no codes or other apparent issues. Sometimes we see them with codes indicating a possible of one or more leaking injectors; as a precursor to spending a lot of time and the customer's cash, we have them invest $15-20 in a bottle of Techron and run the car for a couple days. More often than not, the problem disappears. We have had the opportunity to bore scope cars before and after using Techron, you would be amazed at the difference in the combustion chambers and the tops of the pistons, which is why you should always change your oil after using it. Techron is not a "miracle in a bottle", but it does live up to its claims.

That's much better. Ask your mechanic how he adjusted the level of the fluid after refilling the trans (there is a specific proceedure to do this), otherwise the trans may not have the correct level of fluid in it.

Oh boy....... The Tip and differential use totally different types of lubricants, the TIp uses an ATF like product, while the diff should have a 75W-90 gear oil in it. If he really put the same thing in both, I surprised it works, much less makes noise.............. (*&^%^!! What's the right fluid for the Tip? Differential fluid should be Delvac 75w-90 then? The Tip calls for ESSO ATF LT 71141 or its equivalent; the 75W-90 should be fine in the diff.

Oh boy....... The Tip and differential use totally different types of lubricants, the TIp uses an ATF like product, while the diff should have a 75W-90 gear oil in it. If he really put the same thing in both, I surprised it works, much less makes noise..............

The tank "vents" to the EVAP system, it is a closed loop arrangement that captures vapors and then burns them in the engine. Do a search, it is a common headache area for vacuum leaks. By-passing it is going to be a problem as the DME uses sensors to make sure it is functional, and they source of your codes. Disconnecting it is going to leave the car in permanent code conditon, so it may fail inspection (It is required for state and fed emissions regs in the US and many other countries).

The temp sensors are accurate within a range of +/- a few degrees, and sometimes change a bit with age. The fans are triggered by the DME, so there also can be some variance there. What you are seeing is normal behavior,

The two vents serve different purposes on a Boxster, one is an air intake, the other is an engine compartment heat vent with a fan in it that blows air out when the engine bay reaches certain temps.

Well, you can always jump for a PIWIS...........................

Some people have used non OEM gear oil and say they have not had problems; unfortunately, many that tried this ended up with multiple problems (noise, hard sifting, etc.). As soon as the non OEM fluid was drained and replaced with Porsche's product (which is fully synthetic and made to their unique specification), the problems all disappeared. We only use the OEM product, which we buy from Porsche, and have never had an issue with it. Some time back, I wrote to several of the larger oil manufacture's concerning substitutes, and the response were eye opening: The larger and more credible firms replied that the Porsche spec product is unusual, and they did not have a match for it. The smaller firms all claimed they had suitable products; only problem was they made the gear oils that caused the problems in my customer's cars that we had to drain out and replace. As Loren stated, I would highly recommend only using the Porsche gear oil. At the end of the day, it is your car and you can use what you please, but there is only one product that we use.

On an 2006 car, it was an option, so it will take more than just activation; along with the tire sensors, you are going to need the receiver module which can be pricey. You may want to also look at aftermarket systems, which are considerably cheaper.

Launch X431 is not a Porsche specific system, so I am not at all surprised it cannot read the ABS system, you need a PST II, PIWIS, or Durametric system, period.