Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,812
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    207

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. What type of scanner? You also need to know that no code will clear as long as the problem persist.
  2. You have a vacuum leak, most likely related to the work just done. I start by checking lines and clamps to see if anything is obvious.
  3. Fault code 1 Motor circuit, left This fault is stored in the following cases: 1. Short circuit to ground or open circuit in the circuit between control module and servomotor for HBA (High Beam Adjustment), left, terminals 1,2, 3, 4 2. Servomotor for HBA, left, is faulty 3. The control module is faulty Elimination: Switch off ignition - Pull plug off the control module - Pull plug off the servomotor for HBA - Check for open circuit in the supply leads to the servomotor for HBA, terminals 1, 2, 3, 4 Ohmmeter display: < 5 Ohms - Check for short to B+ in the supply leads to the servomotor for HBA Ohmmeter connected to terminals 1, 2, 3, and 4; measure resistance to ground Ohmmeter display: Infinite Ohms - Check for short circuits between the supply leads. If no fault is detected in the wires, replace the servomotor for HBA. Also check the plug on the wiring harness side and replace if necessary.
  4. 1). Yes. 2). Yes. 3 and 3A). The coolant is not that expensive, and while very long life span is possible, you are due for a coolant dump and refill. Use only the OEM coolant (there have been problems with aftermarket brands, do a search for the details) and premix it with distilled water (only) to a 50/50 ratio. 4). Matter of personal preference. 5). The car will need to be in the air, so do it however you feel most comfortable, but do it safely. 6 and 6A). The Uview Airlift tool is indispensable for doing the coolant on these cars; with it, it is a 5 min. project, without it you could be looking at a lot more time and effort. As for selling the tool, these are very popular, but I cannot imagine why you would sell it as it can be used on anything with a cooling system. 7). It is not a difficult job, but it can be time consuming because of the confined space.
  5. Without a proper scan using a Porsche specific system like the Durametric, anything would be a guess.
  6. Please do not multiple post, it is against forum rules.
  7. This is a question best asked of the lawyers handling the case; but my read of the casework would be that the money would go to the owner that incurred the loss, not the later owner(s).
  8. Quick or intermittent onset is not unusual, because you are going to have to pull the trans to replace it, you may also want to look at the clutch while you are in there (rather than have to do it all over again in the near future if it is worn), and I would definitely recommend up dating the RMS and replacing the IMS rear bearing while you are in there for the same reason. I would also do the AOS at the same time as it is out in the open when the trans is out and a few min. to replace rather than a couple hours when the car is assembled. Cost is going to depend upon the shop's hourly rate, but a project like this is going to consume several hours of shop time, plus parts.
  9. Sounds like it could be the throw out bearing may be going bad.
  10. The reason you can't find it is that your car does not have one. On the later E-gas cars, which yours is one, the idle is controlled by the DME using the throttle servo motor to open or close the throttle blade slightly to control the idle. Earlier cars had a separate valve that performed this function.
  11. When you have access to the Durametric system, or another Porsche specific diagnostic system, recheck the code. We have been seeing more misdiagnosis of late due to strange codes from "Global" OBD II scanners.
  12. That is an odd code number, what type of scanner was used to obtain it?
  13. Year and model would be helpful................
  14. No, it is not that simple. You have to stay with the design the engine came with unless you intend to dismantle the entire engine and replace the shaft itself. LN actually makes a "triple row" ceramic version replacement shaft for just that purpose.
  15. 16 inch wheels will not clear the rotors on an "S" model 986, you are limited to 17 or 18 inch.
  16. Changing the belt roller is straight forward, changing the tensioner itself is a bit more complicated. That L shaped arm in the photo passes through the bracket and into a small black canister that houses a clock spring. When you twist the pulley to get the belt on, you are actually winding the clock spring tighter, which is how it holds tension: Problem is getting at it. On the normal 996 or Boxster (diagram below), it is under the AC compressor at the rear of the bracket that the AC and alternator mount on (item #10): The layout on a Metzger engine is not exactly the same, so I have no exact diagram, but it is similar. This is no picnic to get at and replace as it is in very tight confines, but the part is about $150-200 US.
  17. If you scroll down several pages on the following PDF file, you will see both instructions and photos on a DIY for the tensioner: http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.com/Porsche_996_Turbo_Accessory_%20Serpentine_Belt_Pulley%20Replacement.pdf
  18. I can honestly say that I have never encountered this problem. First thing I would do is to pull the belt and check its length against a new OEM unit, then install the new OEM belt (they are really not that expensive). Could be just stretch or glazing on the face of the old belt. Then I would look at each pulley for any signs of unusual wear or texture on the pulley faces where the belt rides. I would also consider replacing the tensioner.
  19. Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks stock. What size is the nut on the center bolt, and what gives you the impression it was changed?
  20. First, it would be helpful to always include the actual codes you are getting for the O2 sensors, as well as the type of device (global OBD II or Porsche specific system) used to read them. As noted above, P0302 is the code for a #2 cylinder misfire. Any time you do some work and get a code, the first place to look is where you just were working. You may have disturbed a wire connector or pull one loose. Changing the O2 sensors should not cause a misfire.
  21. Any M96/97 engine with the factory IMS is a some level of risk of failure. None of the three differnent designs Porsche tried are immune to failure. A 2006 engine would have the large diameter lfinal design which cannot be updated without taking the entire engine apart. 1997-2004 engines could be updated without taking the engine apart or even taking it out of the car. 2005 was a transitional year where it is impossible to tell which style IMS bearing is in the car without pulling the flywheel off and looking at the center bolt.
  22. StaBil is a great product for cars in storage as it will keep the gas fresh for up to two years. I think the problem in your case was the gas had started to go off before you added the StaBil.
  23. A siphon is about your only option, or some flame proof pumping system. Be careful with the siphon hose that is does not become caught on anything inside the tank or filler neck. The small amount of StaBil will not alter the color or smell of the gas,
  24. Has to be a coincidence, there is nothing in common between the seats and the cruise.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.