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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. You'd be surprised at the amount of odds and ends you can get at decent pricing from Amazon.......
  2. Stay with the OEM style filter; most of the claims for the aftermarket units are highly exaggerated and for the most part unsubstantiated .
  3. The trans mounted B&M kit suffers from two known issues: First, it is very adjustable, so it ends up having one correct configuration, and an infinite number of wrong ones. Second, they are sometimes very hard to keep in the correct adjustment. These problems resulted in B&M stopping production of the trans mount design for the DIY market and going to the console replacement style, which is both durable and tends to hold its adjustments. The console mounted B&M shifter is the one most people comment about its notchy feel, and it is a simple install with a few hand tools without getting under the car.
  4. You may want to check with your dealer, I think you should have one on the driver's side, not sure about the passengers.
  5. Hi Paul, what was the final conclusion for you car ? Were there problems with the variocam ? You are replying to a six year old posting...................
  6. Thanks Iogray for your reply. What was the solution to solve this, was the DME replaced ? Are there other indicators of a malfunction of the variocam besides the read-out at Porsche ? You should be able to read the VarioCam settings on the Durametric software as well. Thx JFP; At the PPI they didn't mention anything about a Durametric readout; I do not own such a kit. It was just written on the report the gave me - I didn't see the actual read-out. As I understand correctly from your answer; variocam errors are only noticable from digital read-outs ? There are no other indicators ? Often, but not always, a VarioCam fault will throw a code and trip the check engine light. Durametric is an excellent Porsche diagnostics software package that is widely used here.
  7. Thanks Iogray for your reply. What was the solution to solve this, was the DME replaced ? Are there other indicators of a malfunction of the variocam besides the read-out at Porsche ? You should be able to read the VarioCam settings on the Durametric software as well.
  8. With a good service record history, the car should be sound. To swap out the VarioCam unit or solenoid, it requires special tools (cam holding device) and removal of the cam cover on the side with the fault. This is not a difficult procedure, but it is a bit time consuming. As I do not have access to your local parts pricing, I would suggest asking your dealer's part department for pricing on both the VarioCam actuator and solenoid to get an accurate assessment of what it is going to cost.
  9. VarioCam errors are often caused by blockage in the VarioCam unit's oil passages (they are very small and easily obstructed). Sometimes these codes are intermittent or momentary and then go away because they are triggered by a small bit of crud that got pushed out of the unit, other times if the problem keeps returning, it may be a sign of a failing unit (they are replaceable), a bad solenoid (also replaceable), or a poor maintenance history on the car (oil and filter not changed often enough, cheap oil used, etc.). You need to look at the car an its maintenance history more closely to see if there are signs of poor maintenance evident. If no history is available, walk away............
  10. You would really have to be creative to get a shift kit that is installed in the rear of the car to cause a whine to come from the front of the car. It sounds more like you have an issue with a possible vacuum leak in the fuel tank/EVAP system area, which is up front. I would start with a quick check of the fuel delivery system for pressure and delivery rates simply to eliminate the fuel pump. I would then spend some time with a stethoscope, listening for the source of the sound. I would also scan the car, checking for any pending codes and also look at the fuel trims. And just in passing, the old style B&M kit that mounts on the side of the gear box was discontinued for a reason, it was the most problem plagued design they tried for these cars before going back to the short shifter that sits in place of the OEM shifter in the console. If you got it in and it is working, fine; but if you start having issues with it, get rid of it.
  11. Haha! Yep. Thanks for all the help you've given me through the past couple years. I've definitely appreciated your experience and willingness to give advice. You still in witness protection?
  12. Sorry, but that is complete nonsense, Tips had IMS failures just like the manual gear box cars, just in smaller numbers because there are fewer Tip cars. Go to the lawsuit's site, they have a place where you enter your complete VIN and it will tell you if your car is involved in the suit class or not. I know it is! It's unreal that they would turn away the biz. They are installing the LN bearing on the manuals and turning away the Tips? .. BTW: My VIN falls within the law suit. I'm planning on having Flat 6 install the IMS solution. My car has 19,500 miles and is beautiful. It will be worth it. Perhaps because the Tip cars are harder to do (take more time)..............
  13. Until I see comparative same day track lap times before and after on a properly setup car, driven by a known competent driver, I will continue to say they are for looks more than performance......................
  14. Sorry, but that is complete nonsense, Tips had IMS failures just like the manual gear box cars, just in smaller numbers because there are fewer Tip cars. Go to the lawsuit's site, they have a place where you enter your complete VIN and it will tell you if your car is involved in the suit class or not.
  15. You simply may have a bad U-joint and will have to replace it as they do fail, but only rarely. There is also a bearing where the steering column enters the rack, which could also be the source of the sounds. Try disconnecting the U-joint from the rack and then move each separately to see if you can pinpoint the source of the noise.
  16. The car will have to meet US Federal standards at a minimum, and have certification documentation to prove it. Ask Bill Gates, he imported two 959's only to have them impounded on arrival here because they did not have US Federal certifications. States can set their own standards for emissions (higher standards only, such as CA), but they cannot alter the Fed safety requirements. In 2003, most Euro spec Porsches had only one set of O2 sensors and a different DME program (know in the PIWIS as RoW - Europe). Having spent time in Europe, the first thing you notice is the different bumpers on some models, and the head lights. Euro spec cars also have to meet very stringent noise level requirements (mostly for Switzerland), which is why all Porsche's with factory PSE systems (US or Euro spec) automatically close the bypass valves at certain speeds.
  17. This can be a bit more thorny than just a bumper; a lot of Euro spec cars need to have both their crash speed ratings (bumpers, etc.) switched over, as well as their emissions systems to meet US standards, after which the car has to be certified to meet US specs. There are also differences in the lighting systems (head lights, DRL, etc.) that need to be addressed as well. You need to do some serious research on this, there are firms that do it, but the cost often exceeds the values of doing it and many just sell their cars and buy a US spec version when they get here.
  18. I'd really like to know how they repacked your wheel bearings, they are sealed units: I am beginning to think that you need to have another set of eyes, ones with a bit more Porsche experience, look at this car. Your "grinding" noise could be wheel bearings, or CV joints; but someone that tells you they repacked bearings that can't be repacked needs to be replaced..............
  19. I always go back to the last thing touched when codes sudden show up. As mentioned, P0455 is the "large leak" EVAP system code, which obviously includes the gas tank; one neat trick in this department: Jury rig a rubber stopper or something similar to replace the gas cap (we actually took a new cap, drilled and tapped a hole in it that we then screwed in a threaded fitting to connect to a vacuum gauge) and check for a steady low vacuum on the tank with the car idling. If it is intermittent, or non existent, or worse yet there is pressure, there is a leak somewhere that has to be tracked down. You can still have a loose connection on the O2 sensors as a vacuum leak is more prone to cause the car to throw overly lean O2 codes rather than a poor electrical connection code.
  20. How well I remember.................
  21. I think any change in the car's handling characteristics resulting from spacers is more perception than reality. Most people use them simply to get "the look".
  22. Along with the gas cap, you could have a bad EVAP canister (cracked), a disconnected hose (there are several), a bad valve at the EVAP canister, etc. You could also have a fuel filler neck related issue, or simply an air leak into the fuel tank where the fuel pump enters. This is the kind of problem that the smoke machine to find vacuum leaks was developed for; quite often, visual inspection in not sufficient to find these leaks.
  23. The Purge valve should not trigger the EVAP related code he is seeing, but is worth a look in any case..
  24. P0455 is the code for a large vacuum leak in the EVAP system, often a loose, missing or defective gas cap. P0134 and 0154 are for a poor electronic connection (read loose plug) on both upstream O2 sensors. Find and fix the vacuum leak, clear the codes and see if the O2 sensor codes return; if they do, check all the harness connections before even thinking about replacement.
  25. You are going to want to run a very high ZDDP oil designed for new engine break in periods, like Joe Gibbs BR product. I would not run this for more than 400-500 miles.
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