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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Please do not multiple post, it is against forum rules.
  2. This is a question best asked of the lawyers handling the case; but my read of the casework would be that the money would go to the owner that incurred the loss, not the later owner(s).
  3. Quick or intermittent onset is not unusual, because you are going to have to pull the trans to replace it, you may also want to look at the clutch while you are in there (rather than have to do it all over again in the near future if it is worn), and I would definitely recommend up dating the RMS and replacing the IMS rear bearing while you are in there for the same reason. I would also do the AOS at the same time as it is out in the open when the trans is out and a few min. to replace rather than a couple hours when the car is assembled. Cost is going to depend upon the shop's hourly rate, but a project like this is going to consume several hours of shop time, plus parts.
  4. Sounds like it could be the throw out bearing may be going bad.
  5. The reason you can't find it is that your car does not have one. On the later E-gas cars, which yours is one, the idle is controlled by the DME using the throttle servo motor to open or close the throttle blade slightly to control the idle. Earlier cars had a separate valve that performed this function.
  6. When you have access to the Durametric system, or another Porsche specific diagnostic system, recheck the code. We have been seeing more misdiagnosis of late due to strange codes from "Global" OBD II scanners.
  7. That is an odd code number, what type of scanner was used to obtain it?
  8. Year and model would be helpful................
  9. No, it is not that simple. You have to stay with the design the engine came with unless you intend to dismantle the entire engine and replace the shaft itself. LN actually makes a "triple row" ceramic version replacement shaft for just that purpose.
  10. 16 inch wheels will not clear the rotors on an "S" model 986, you are limited to 17 or 18 inch.
  11. Changing the belt roller is straight forward, changing the tensioner itself is a bit more complicated. That L shaped arm in the photo passes through the bracket and into a small black canister that houses a clock spring. When you twist the pulley to get the belt on, you are actually winding the clock spring tighter, which is how it holds tension: Problem is getting at it. On the normal 996 or Boxster (diagram below), it is under the AC compressor at the rear of the bracket that the AC and alternator mount on (item #10): The layout on a Metzger engine is not exactly the same, so I have no exact diagram, but it is similar. This is no picnic to get at and replace as it is in very tight confines, but the part is about $150-200 US.
  12. If you scroll down several pages on the following PDF file, you will see both instructions and photos on a DIY for the tensioner: http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.com/Porsche_996_Turbo_Accessory_%20Serpentine_Belt_Pulley%20Replacement.pdf
  13. I can honestly say that I have never encountered this problem. First thing I would do is to pull the belt and check its length against a new OEM unit, then install the new OEM belt (they are really not that expensive). Could be just stretch or glazing on the face of the old belt. Then I would look at each pulley for any signs of unusual wear or texture on the pulley faces where the belt rides. I would also consider replacing the tensioner.
  14. Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks stock. What size is the nut on the center bolt, and what gives you the impression it was changed?
  15. First, it would be helpful to always include the actual codes you are getting for the O2 sensors, as well as the type of device (global OBD II or Porsche specific system) used to read them. As noted above, P0302 is the code for a #2 cylinder misfire. Any time you do some work and get a code, the first place to look is where you just were working. You may have disturbed a wire connector or pull one loose. Changing the O2 sensors should not cause a misfire.
  16. Any M96/97 engine with the factory IMS is a some level of risk of failure. None of the three differnent designs Porsche tried are immune to failure. A 2006 engine would have the large diameter lfinal design which cannot be updated without taking the entire engine apart. 1997-2004 engines could be updated without taking the engine apart or even taking it out of the car. 2005 was a transitional year where it is impossible to tell which style IMS bearing is in the car without pulling the flywheel off and looking at the center bolt.
  17. StaBil is a great product for cars in storage as it will keep the gas fresh for up to two years. I think the problem in your case was the gas had started to go off before you added the StaBil.
  18. A siphon is about your only option, or some flame proof pumping system. Be careful with the siphon hose that is does not become caught on anything inside the tank or filler neck. The small amount of StaBil will not alter the color or smell of the gas,
  19. Has to be a coincidence, there is nothing in common between the seats and the cruise.
  20. I ordered a complete seal/gasket set, mechanic suggested resealing the motor... exhaust gaskets, valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube seals, timing chain seals, cam seals and so on... ordering new water pump, drive belt, thermostat.... whats the AOS? Air Oil Separator, with the car apart, it is a simple install, when together (especially on a Tip car) it is a royal pain. And there are no cam cover (or oil pan) gaskets, they used a Loctite sealant, and there are no timing chain seals as the chains are entirely inside the engine.
  21. Rear main seal, IMS upgrade, water pump, oil fill tube, 160F thermostat, new AOS at a minimum.
  22. Start by checking your fuel pressure and delivery rates, and when was the last time you changed the fuel filter on the car? Another possibility is a crank position sensor on the way out.
  23. Silver_TT is correct; both ABS and PSM MIL lights are not uncommon when one of these cars goes into a low voltage situation, and they typically clear themselves once the voltage is back up and require no further attention.
  24. What you need to do is have the car diagnosed on a Porsche specific system; swapping around the sensors is more effort than it is worth when you can plug in a computer and see how they are doing. Get the car checked.
  25. P1324 is the big one here, that indicates that the intake cam on Bank 2 timing is below the lower limit, meaning the cam is out of time. One problem is that many "generic" OBD II scanners spit out ghost codes along with the real ones. If the car was in my shop, I would run the cam deviations values (spec is +/- 6 degrees) to see where they really are. That requires the use of a PST II, PIWIS, or the Durametric diagnostic tools to accomplish. Either a cam position sensor has gone bad, or more likely one of the VarioCam components on that bank is on the way out. All of these systems can test the VarioCam components on the car as well. Because you do not know if the problem is a major shift in cam timing or not, I would not be driving the car at all, and would suggest flat bedding it to a shop with the correct tools to do the diagnostics. If the cam really has moved beyond the lower limit, you could be only a few degrees away from piston to valve contact, which will be fatal.
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