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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Get the vehicle scanned for codes, note them, then clear them and see if the warning returns.
  2. It is a reasonably safe bet that if the IMS was improperly installed, the car would not have made it very far. I'd start looking at drive line parts; checking axel bolts, CV joints, etc. before becoming concerned that the engine is coming apart.............
  3. Unless the paper work for the upgrade came with the car, or you got to speak to the shop that did it, the only other way is to take it apart and look at it.
  4. The easiest way to get this under control is going to be lowering the coolant level in the tank to about midway when the car is cold and then using a vacuum filling tool to pull the air out. Once the system is at full vacuum, you can then use it ability to pull in any of the excess mix you removed to correct the coolant level.
  5. The Enthusiast version allow the use on three different cars, the Pro version allows unlimited cars. You need to be careful which version of the cable you are getting, the first generation is no longer supported with software updates. Durametric has an explanation on their website (Durametric.com) on how to identify which cable is which, as well as how to upgrade from the first generation to the newer cable.
  6. Without totally reopening this ever reoccurring can of worms, if you have not done so, do a search on the subject; this has been discussed ad nauseam and far too many times.
  7. I hate to tell your local dealer this, but the OEM fill was a full synthetic product produced especially for Porsche to their specs, which because it is so unusual, had no GL rating. The OEM product is also the only product you should be using
  8. No, that is actually the rear seal of the IMS bearing, but in a 996/997 it would be facing towards the front of the car. There is no oil, or should not be any oil, inside the shaft it self as there would be no way for it to get out; the IMS bearing is blocking that path. When the indicated seal is removed, there is still another seal on the other side of the bearing which seals off the inside of the IMS shaft. The bearing will be partially submerged in the normal sump oil capacity when the engine is not running, and oil will be splashing up between the IMS bering and flange when the engine is running, and is more than enough to lubricate the bearing.
  9. The factory system has a link that reads the ground speed from the car's electronics that controls a relay which overrides the vacuum controls.
  10. No, the quiet zone is between 28 and 42 MPH per the euro sound spec requirements.
  11. These cars should not be flat towed, or towed by a boom style tow truck; flat bed transport only.
  12. You need to pull the gearbox, clutch, and flywheel off the car, which will expose both the RMS and IMS flange. Here is an ugly but informative photo: The RMS replacement is straight forward, you just pull the old one out using a suitable pick, and install the latest PTFE version, being sure to set it to the correct depth from the face of the crank flange. As you will need to remove the IMS support flange, the engine will need to be locked at TDC with a pin, and the cams plugs need to be pulled and the cams locked before removing the three primary cam tensioners first. Then remove the IMS flange, which will expose the rear of the IMS bearing: Now use the same pick you used on the RMS to pop out the IMS rear seal. Reassemble and you are in business. There are several on-line tutorials on doing an IMS upgrade that will provide you with detailed step by step procedures, just follow one of them but leave out the IMS extraction and replacement steps. I would highly recommend using the LN Engineering procedure without short cutting any of the other steps: http://www.imsretrofit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/imsretrofit.pdf
  13. Not sure that fits the turbo cars (they are different than the 996 cars), plus I don't see what advantage it would add for all that cash.
  14. +1 The Metzger engine is a work of engineering art when compared to the M96/97 engine. Flog the Hell out of them and they keep coming back for more..........
  15. As the bearing cannot easily be upgraded, removing the rear seal will allow continuous splash lubrication by the sump oil, eliminating the "trapped oil breakdown" pathway to bearing failure. We have several customers running this way with no problems.
  16. Et un grand merci à vous aussi mon ami, et peut vous aussi un merveilleux week-end.
  17. Certains s'accrochent plus serré que d'autres. The chain design changed between 2000 and 2001 model years (part number change, design was to reduce chain noise), but both were five chain styles; the three chain did not become prominent until model year 2003 for Boxsters and 2002 for the 996.
  18. That is a possible, as with many things Porsche, it is not exactly clear when they switched chains, and I have never really tried to match the chain with the bearings style.
  19. I know I am correct in what I said about the 2000-2001 cars, which proves the VarioCam+ explanation incorrect, and you also need to know that VIN numbers have proven basically useless in determining which bearing is in a given car, only the year of engine manufacture matters, and even then the 2000-2001 engines have to be visually checked for which IMS bearing style is in them as they used both. Plus you need to check the engine number for the letters "AT", which would indicate a replacement engine, which can potentially hold a different variation of the bearing depending upon the year it was remaned.
  20. There are only two liquids in a 993 to burn, fuel or oil. High fuel problems (e.g.: Leaking injectors) would cause pungent black smoke; so it is probably oil.
  21. I'm well aware of ROW car setups, the code you have says that sensor is the problem, either because the wiring harness leading to it is a problem, or the sensor itself is going south. You need to check the sensor and its harness.
  22. Read my post directly above, as I noted, you probably have a bad O2 sensor, but you need to check it before replacing it...................................
  23. Because this version of the engine utilized the OEM "final solution" oversized IMS bearing, you cannot replace it without dismantling the entire engine. You best bet here is to remove the rear IMS bearing seal and leave it at that.
  24. Please do not "bump" your post, it is against forum rules..........
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