JFP in PA

Welcome :welcome: Year and model would be helpful information.

Anti seize will not bother anything, just don't go nuts applying it.

If memory serves (I'm away from the shop at the moment), the C102 may indicate that a controller needs to be reset or possibly replaced. This cannot be done with the Durametric, it needs a PIWIS.

There are several DIY's for this, this is a pretty good one: http://www.skylersrants.com/Porsche/Radiator/Radiator.html In addition to the 160 stat, you might consider the larger oil cooler and a third radiator if you car does not already have them.

You could also clean out the collected debris in your radiators (always a problem on these cars), and install a 160F thermostat (always an excellent idea).

Not easily, the fan control (on and off) if done by the DME software; to alter the temperatures, you would have to install an external control system of some sort, which a seriously doubt a dealer will do. Why do you want to alter the profile?

Try shooting it with some PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil and let it sit for a bit; the sensor and the bore where it sits in the carrier are supposed to be coated with a moly lubricant to prevent them sticking, but they tend to do just that anyway. Once you get it out, be sure to clean the bore with a small brush and use either a good quality brake grease or anti seize compound to prevent it getting stuck again.

I can't quite be sure what I'm seeing here JFP in PA. This looks more like a line art illustration than an image. Maybe I'm just not looking at it right.... In real life, the item depicted in the drawing above looks like this: That's what I thought it was. The isometric perspective made me wonder if the image had been changed. No, the line drawing was to highlight the ridge in the center of the coupler, not all CPVC coupler's have it and it is critical to the success of using it to insert the seal.

I can't quite be sure what I'm seeing here JFP in PA. This looks more like a line art illustration than an image. Maybe I'm just not looking at it right.... In real life, the item depicted in the drawing above looks like this:

A 997-1 DME records the following rev ranges: Range 1: 7300-7500 RPM Range 2: 7500-7700 RPM Range 3: 7700-7900 RPM Range 4: 7900-8400 RPM Range 5: 8400-9500 RPM Range 6: 9500-11000 RPM Any data in ranges above 3rd (4,5,6) can be used by PCNA as a reason to cancel your warranty, in case of engine related issues. As this data is not easily altered or erased, I seriously doubt the dealer changed it. The OBD II codes are listed under the "DIY" tab heading at the top of this page, but may be limited to contributing members only.

Glad it worked out for you; there as many parts on these cars that are Audi or VW components, which tend to be much cheaper than the same part in a Porsche logoed box. Always worth a quick look when sourcing replacements.

Actually, in this case I believe the Durametric will not work because the problem is not a fault, but a system coding issue, which requires a PST II or PIWIS to correct.

Well, I've always been an iconoclast in the oil department, depending more upon UOA's collected over the years than either Porsche or the oil manufacturer's hype. As the direct result, the shop uses two oils for the "Wasser gekühlt" M96/97 and 9A1 engines; for most applications we use Castrol Edge with Syntec Technology in a 10W-40 weight. For cars that see extreme cold, or a lot of track time, Joe Gibbs 5W-40. We have always liked the superior film strengths and life of the Castrol Syntec products, the Gibbs product is hard to beat for high ZDDP levels in a market where it seems to be disappearing from many oils. If we could get in locally, we would be evaluating the Castrol Pro Edge products, but as they are not available for general distribution in the US, that is still a future project.

That obviously totally depends upon what happened to the engine during the first failure, some cases can be salvaged, some not. But all the "AT" engines are recycled used cases.

All "AT" engines are to the original factory specs, particularly as there are no over sized rod or main bearings available for these engines.

We use the Wix/NAPA Gold 51042 as our standard spin on, which retail for about $4.50-5.00 on sites like FleetFilter.com. You should also consider the Wix/NAPA Gold 51042XP which uses a totally synthetic filter media and sells at retail for about $3 more than the standard filter. Both have proven to be excellent filters and way cheaper than the way over priced K&N units.

We have many customers running them, and I have them on my personal cars as well. This design offers several advantages, most of which were discussed in a recent Excellence response to a technical inquiry on this subject. The spin on design is a "full flow" type, meaning that all the oil is filtered at all times, there is no by-pass mechanism to allow unfiltered oil to circulate, which is more important than many give it credit for. The OEM housing has a small by-pass valve in its base, which when new allows oil to go around the filter media under certain circumstances. Unfortunately, as this device ages, it can develop a tendency to allow this to occur more often than it was designed to do, which is obviously not a good thing. While some would argue that having the by-pass available at cold start up, or if the filter became plugged with debris is important; they seem to over look that fact that many modern engines do not use a filter by-pass mechanism and do just fine on cold starts, and the fact that the spin on filter is actually rated to flow more oil than the oil pump can move in a given time frame, so cold flow is not a real problem, particularly with modern full synthetic oils. As for having a by-pass to allow oil to circulate if the filter became totally clogged, if your filter reached this state, the engine would already have experienced some significant internal damage and would be a candidate for disassembly, which would only be worsened by allowing the dirty oil to continue to circulate. While the spin on filters are shorter than the OEM cartridge style filters, the two really critical measurements are the filter's total surface area and micron pore size of the filter media. The spin will sacrifice a small amount of total surface area, but depending upon the filter manufacturer, actually has a considerably finer pore diameter, which yields superior filtration characteristics when compared to the OEM units. As for 30,000 mile filter change intervals, in the real world people should be changing out their oil and filters a lot sooner than that, more like 5K or once a year at a minimum, even if they are running quality full synthetic oil.

From this picture alone, you appear to have leaking spark plug tubes, but I would agree with RFM, clean the engine bay first so you can see what is actually going on:

That being said, it is definitely not from the head gasket. I'd be hesitant to start the engine due to knocking sound and foreign stuff in cyl #4/6. Safe to say there is a leakage somewhere, could you help me to understand why a leak down test would provide useful information? Before I haul the engine to a shop and start burning some serious $$$, I'd appreciate a lot for any comments regarding how I could assess the situation better myself. I could drain coolant + oil and check for intermix. Then drop the engine and open cylinder head, at least that should tell is the engine salvageable or not. The car has never smoked, even the tailpipes are clear as a sky, same thing when this problem happened. 85k miles, original water pump (yes, new one is already coming), coolant level now below minimum(!). At least that is good that this problem happened on the front slope of my garage when I was warming up the engine and not while I was driving in the freeway. Much appreciated JFP for your comments!! I guess my driving days are over for a while, this really really sucks :unsure: If you have suffered a cylinder head crack, which is not that uncommon, you can often (but not always) catch this with a leak down test which pressurizes each cylinder while the piston is at TDC and observes percentage leakage. Quite often, cracked cylinder heads will allow the air from the test to bubble into the cooling system as well during the test, which is another confirming data point. If you suddenly find a cylinder or two that jump up over 10% leakage, they would be your suspects. You can also pressurize the cooling system (using a hand pumped cooling system pressure tester) to see if it will hold pressure, which is working from the opposite side of things: You may or may not experience an intermix with this kind of problem, but it is always worth checking the oil and coolant.

As the head gaskets on these engines are multilayer steel, and never fail, I doubt that is head gasket material. More likely, that is a build up of dried coolant from a crack area. Time to run a leak down test.

Be sure all the drains are clear of obstructions: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/drainsdiagram

Not without checking to see that the calipers are also the same, which I would be will to wager is not the case.

Most likely what the description says, circuit open or shorted on the wheel speed sensor. Check for resistance or continuity between connector pins 4 & 5, if you don't see any, you probably have lost the sensor. Also check the wiring connectors to be sure they are tight.

The 981 S front rotors are 13.0 X 1.1 inch, rears are 11.77 X 0.80 inch, the non S fronts are 12.4 X 0.80 and the rears are the same 11.77 X 0.80 inch. As Loren noted, the carriers are the same.

Some people retain the cats, some sell them. In many states, the vehicle will not pass inspection without the cats physically being present (yes, they actually look). Selling a cat-less vehicle is problematic as well, as some states place the onus on passing inspection on the seller of the car rather than the buyer; if it won't pass inspection, the seller has to either take the car back or fix it so it passes. I guess it all depends upon where you head is at. We only have a couple of customers running the pipes, they kept the cats to put back on when they sell the car. At the end of the day, removing the cats really does not free up much power in anything short of a ten tenths prepared car (reflashed DME, full headers, etc.) regardless of what the cat bypass pipe sellers say, so taking them off a vehicle with no other mods really won't gain you much in performance, but could end up creating a lot of grief, including persistent MIL codes, inspection problems, sale problems, etc.... But it is your car, so you have to decide what you really want.