JFP in PA

Considering that a couple people I know have purchased from them, and they are not businesses, the must be a way around the "wholesale only".

Unless I am mistaken, SSF will sell to anyone with a valid credit card.

You can try Amazon with an overnight delivery, or check the Henkel website to see who carries what you need. SSF, by-the-by, is the "official" distributor of all of LN and Jake Raby's retrofit products, including the IMS Solution product.

Check with any industrial supply houses such as Grainger's in your area, they carry the Loctite line. I think Loctite (Henkel) also has a "where to buy" feature on their website. Amazon.com also sells most Loctite products. Loctite 5900, DriBond, and Curil-T are fine mating surface sealants for use on the sump or cam covers, but they are not for use on the RMS. Do not use anything on the PTFE seal, it must be clean and free of any oil or sealants to work properly. We have had to replace more than one recent DIY fitted RMS seal because they used a lubricant or sealant.

You can also obtain this information with the Durametric system, by reading the accrued operation hours from the DME and dividing it into the mirage shown on the odometer to obtain the vehicles average MPH. As most cars average between 30-50MPH over their life span, a number well below 30MPH would be suspect. You also need to know that swapping out instrument clusters in these cars is a common ploy to evade excess mileage charges on leased cars that are being turned in.

Porsche Dynamic Chassis Control (PDCC) uses active anti-roll bars on the front and rear axles to significantly reduce lateral body movement during cornering maneuvers. PDCC reads the current steering angle and lateral acceleration forces, and responds by producing a stabilizing counterforce that precisely negates any swaying force acting on the body. The result is optimal traction and occupant comfort in both on and off-road use. As with any technology that employs multiple sensors and active mechanical devices, there is an increased chance of component failure with accrued mileage. Most people seem to like it because it uncouples the sway bars when you are just cruising down the highway, resulting in a better overall ride, but instantly brings them back online when they are needed for crisp handling. This option is very highly regarded by Cayenne owners in conjunction with the optional air suspension featuring PASM.

You have to remember that all diagnostic scanners, regardless of origin or price, function more like a compass than a GPS unit; they can point you in the right direction, but you still have to apply basic diagnostic logic and experience to arrive at the correct answer to a problem. Well said! Thanks. I occasionally do have moments of lucidity............. :eek:

Do you think it's easier to get it out? Hope you're right! :eek: After you have done your first dozen or so, you will fully understand; particularly if you are dealing with Tips in the 996 :thumbup:

You have to remember that all diagnostic scanners, regardless of origin or price, function more like a compass than a GPS unit; they can point you in the right direction, but you still have to apply basic diagnostic logic and experience to arrive at the correct answer to a problem.

We only use the OEM gear oils, I've mentioned several times previously that Porsche uses a unique full synthetic gear oil that is made to their specs and which the larger oil companies admit they do not have a match for, so why mess around with something else that may or may not work? Loctite 242 is a low strength product, I would prefer to use 268 which is a high strength thread locker on the new flywheel and pressure plate bolts. I also use a small bead of Loctite 574 on the bottom of the IMS center bolt nut, and a small amount of Loctite 290 Green wicking thread locker on the center bolt threads; the last two are done to prevent small oil leaks that come from engine oil wicking up the center bolt threads and dripping behind the flywheel, which can shorten the life of the flywheel's dual mass elastomer. The correct install depth (measured from the flywheel mating surface of the crankshaft) for the PTFE RMS seal is 13MM, which is critical. It is also critical that all mating surfaces for the seal be scrupulously clean and that no lubricant of any kind be used as it will cause leaks.

P0445 is the code for a short to ground on the EVAP canister purge valve, and more often than not is a wiring problem, but can also be DME related. You need to start by checking the wiring to the purge valve to make sure the harness has not chaffed and shorted. My previous and now deleted response was for the wrong code.

Ahsai / JFP, thanks for your help on this and the other thread. I remember now the mechanic telling me the anti freeze was permanent and didn't need changed so that makes sense. Here is a shot of the liquid out of the tank and it's clear with no separation. I'll have my guy look at it in the am just to be sure. I'm sure there is no oil involved looking at this (whew!) Rich That looks fine, no signs of cloudiness or seperation.

That is not the original coolant, the 1999 stuff would have been green. The pink stuff dates to 2004-05 introduction.

Couple of points: If you are using just the one 5 chain cam tool, it has to be on the water pump end of the engine. You can also put a second one on the other end of the engine, but the one on the water pump end is important. It is not unusual for an older engine to be somewhat off in cam timing, which is why you should run cam deviation checks prior and after a retrofit. You should not be locking the cams by moving the engine off TDC, that pin has to remain in the crank pulley during the entire proceedure. Quite often, you need to rotate the engine more than one cycle before the cams will line up, this is nothing unusual. If you have rotated the engine by hand (clockwise only) through multiple cycles and the cam slots still to not line up, you may have a cam timing problem that needs to be addressed before the retrofit.

Check your alternator, many of these cars were equipped with a declutching pulley on the alternator that can make clicking or ratcheting sounds when they go bad. Easy to replace but requires a special tool to get it off.

It looks like the newer "pink" coolant. As it is hard to tell from the picture, is the mixture clear or cloudy?

While you can take a Tip out of the Boxster by itself, taking them out as a unit and then separating them can make sense, depending upon what you are doing. Many times it is less work.

The bulkhead grommets in these cars are directional, meaning they insert from only one side. Why not recover the one you pushed out and reuse it, or if it cannot be reused, definitely get a new one. In either case, a quick spray with silicone will make pushing back in place a lot easier.

As someone that does this for a living, let me give you some basics: Forget about anyone's instructions except for LN Engineering. While some people have gotten away using the so-called set screw method, others have had major league problems. Because the gear you are pushing on with the set screws is a press fit to the IMS shaft, you can actually move the gear on the shaft, which then requires taking the engine apart to fix. Bad idea. Get a copy of the LN instructions and follow them to the letter, they are the only ones known to not create problems; and don't cheap out on getting the necessary tooling. TDC is only for the #1 cylinder, there is no other engine position will minimize valve spring loading, which is what will try to rotate the engine during this process. Once the engine is rotated to TDC (turning clockwise only), it should not be moved and the locking pin should not be removed until everything is reassembled. The "green stuff" on the bolts is a micro encapsulation Porsche uses to help hold the bolts tight. The blue on the flywheel bolts is thread locker. And while on the subject, you should not even consider reusing any of the pressure plate or flywheel bolts, they are single use fasteners. The three chain tensioners can be removed. It is always a good idea to clean them and at least check them for signs of wear as it is a pain in the butt to go back in to replace a weak one. Be sure to note which tensioner came from where, they are not all the same. A blown AOS will leave a lot of oil in the intake system, and take forever to burn off unless you take the system apart and manually clean everything out. Buy a leak down tester rather than a compression gauge, leak down tests tell you a lot more than a simple compression test. Thanks JFP in PA, as always, you give wizened informative clarity. I wouldn't even think of reusing the flywheel bolts or pressure plate bolts (or old seals), and I did purchase the LN toolkit. But in reading instruction #6, from LN's site(Rev16 Jan 2013), it is not specifically stating "which" exhaust camshaft to place the 5 chain lock on. According to the Bentley YouTube video, at least on the three chain motors, both cyl 1-3 and 4-6 intake and exhaust camshafts were locked into place and all three tensioners removed. LN's site under #7 suggests loosening/removing the third one only if "centeredness" isn't achieved. Also, if the tensioners are removed, (at least the two) don't they have to be submerged in new oil prior to being reinstalled? If memory serves, I saw that on a rebuild. I'll be sure to follow the visual cues on the tensioner and the engine for which is which. ---- From LN: #6: Use appropriate long cam lock tool for 3-chain or short cam lock tool for 5-chain engine to lock cams prior to removing chain tensioners. Lock camshaft in head with tensioner accessed from underside of the engine, closest to flywheel. #7. Remove the IMS to crankshaft chain tensioner as well as well the chain tensioner on the cylinder head for which you have locked the cam. If tensioners are worn or were noisy at startup, replace. NOTE: If the flange does not come off easily, the bearing is not centered, or you cannot reinstall the flange, then loosen and/or remove the third chain tensioner. ---- That second sentence in #6 is hard to *interpret/visualize. If I read #6 & #7 correctly, Only two tensioners need to be removed (Ims/crankshaft & the tensioner for 4-6 cyl.), the third optional (cyl 1-3 - by the AC behind the driver seat) if necessity applies. The cams on the left side of the flywheel (If you are facing the flywheel) are cylinders 4-6, the upper is the intake the lower is the exhaust. On a 5 chain motor, put the 5-chain lock on the exhaust cam for cyl. 4-6. Is that correct? {*Addendum: In some prior posts I had originally mixed up referring which engine sides were which before because of my dyslexia - calling the drivers side cylinders 1-3 and passenger side 4-6. Sorry if that adds to any confusion. That's why visuals usually clear up things for me, but I don't usually have problems interpreting what I've read if I read something several times.} On the AOS, that was changed out about 20K ago...maybe a bit less. It was the older problematic aos that was replaced. Though I could cut the 3 chain lock to work as a second 5-chain, the thickness is different. The 5 - chain lock is slightly beveled. Though I could "bevel" the altered 3 chain in addition to cutting it, would it "fit" on a five chain as it is, keeping the integrity of the timing (and the tool)intact? Thanks again for your help with this...I'll be making a donation to the site soon. You are reading too much into non comparable statements. Bentley is talking about 3 chain motors, which are decidedly more prone to jump timing during an IMS retrofit, so both cams get locked down and all three tensioners are removed as a precaution. On a five chain motor, which you have, each set of cams also has a chain running cam to cam, so timing jumps are much less probable and only one cam set needs to be locked by holding a single cam, but you can still do both banks if you feel safer and which is also a good idea. You can also get by pulling only the two tensioners mentioned in the LN instructions, unless you find that pulling the flange off is hard, meaning there is still tension on the shaft; then you would pull the third tensioner to relive the flange. In reality, once the car is up in the air and the engine is locked down, pulling all three tensioners is a simple operation, and allows you to check them for problems, as well as precluding the off center problem. On many retrofits, the combination of noise complaints and higher than desirable cam deviation values prior to the job makes looking at and potentially replacing the three tensioners pretty much a done deal. Porsche has updated these tensioners more than once since your car was built, and while they are not cheap (about $100 per), it would be less cost effective to have to do this twice. Rather than hacking up the three chain lock, why not take the five chain unit to a local fab shop and have them make you a second one? They are not that complicated. And, yes, the tensioners should be pumped in oil before use; used ones should be pumped in warm Marvel Mystery Oil until they clean all the crud out of them first, then in engine oil to prime them.

As someone that does this for a living, let me give you some basics: Forget about anyone's instructions except for LN Engineering. While some people have gotten away using the so-called set screw method, others have had major league problems. Because the gear you are pushing on with the set screws is a press fit to the IMS shaft, you can actually move the gear on the shaft, which then requires taking the engine apart to fix. Bad idea. Get a copy of the LN instructions and follow them to the letter, they are the only ones known to not create problems; and don't cheap out on getting the necessary tooling. TDC is only for the #1 cylinder, there is no other engine position will minimize valve spring loading, which is what will try to rotate the engine during this process. Once the engine is rotated to TDC (turning clockwise only), it should not be moved and the locking pin should not be removed until everything is reassembled. The "green stuff" on the bolts is a micro encapsulation Porsche uses to help hold the bolts tight. The blue on the flywheel bolts is thread locker. And while on the subject, you should not even consider reusing any of the pressure plate or flywheel bolts, they are single use fasteners. The three chain tensioners can be removed. It is always a good idea to clean them and at least check them for signs of wear as it is a pain in the butt to go back in to replace a weak one. Be sure to note which tensioner came from where, they are not all the same. A blown AOS will leave a lot of oil in the intake system, and take forever to burn off unless you take the system apart and manually clean everything out. Buy a leak down tester rather than a compression gauge, leak down tests tell you a lot more than a simple compression test.

Are you absolutely sure you have the correct bolts back in their locations on the flywheel (converter and crank bolts)? If it happens every time the flywheel rotates once, it has to be associated with the flywheel, converter, or the front pump in the Tip......something is touching when the assembly rotates.

Check your crank position sensor, it is right there and sits very close to the flywheel to read the teeth on the back of the flywheel to get the crank's position. It is held in by one bolt and is easy to pull out; look for signs of contact on the face.

There used to be a product call the "boomerang" that was a stainless steel plate for this purpose, but I have not seen anyone selling them in several years. Search could be your best bet on this one.

I would also go back to what I said earlier; check every plug connection on both lights, try unplugging and reconnecting each of them (making sure they are fully seated) as well as checking the system grounds. A lot of Litronics "bugs" have ultimately be traced to poor system connections which the system does not respond well to at all. Pulling and checking everything is tedious, but often very rewarding.

This is a post delivery install, therefore there are no leveling sensors and the Durametric system will not be able to read faults as the lights are not linked to the DME.