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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    :thumbup: EVAP system problems are second only to girl friend/wife issues in terms of complexity and level of general aggravation............
  2. JFP in PA
    There are multiple valves on the system, as well as pressure and vacuum sensors. It is designed to function as a closed loop that prevents vapors from escaping from the tank by capturing them in the activated carbon in the EVAP canister where they are held until drawn into the engine to be burned, and also preventing the gas tank going under excessive vacuum. Here is a simplified explanation of how it does this: http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/294
  3. JFP in PA
    I assume you are referring to #1 in the drawing below: When #1 opens, it draws the vapor laden air out of the EVAP canister into the intake to be burned.
  4. JFP in PA
    Hello EleCTriCT, I am sorry to have revived an old thread but I was just wondering if it is at all possible to do a maintenance interval reset (after oil change) without using a PIWIS-II or Durametric. Is there a procedure using button presses? I am specifically referring to the 2013 Panamera S. Not to my knowledge, you need either a PIWIS or Durametric software system to reset it.
  5. JFP in PA
    The 991 uses similar jacking points to the 996 under the side rocker panels. The jack pad mounts accept the same pads we use on the earlier cars. I also have not seen anything "offical" concerning other ways to pick the car up.
  6. JFP in PA
    Turn signal return issues are common in these cars, as are problems with the horn sounding without anyone pressing the horn section of the steering wheel. The turn signal return usually equates to replacing the switch in the steering column, so now would be the time to do the OBC four stalk replacement as well. These are the necessary parts to do the four stalk, the prices date back a couple years, so expect them to be a bit higher: 1) 996-613-219-10 EWC 4 column switch - $166.29 2) 999-650-513-40 Plug Socket (for wiring harness) - $2.86 3) 000-979-009 VW Wiring Set (5 of them) - $13.05 4) 993-552-573-01-01C Steering Wheel Switch Cover (additional opening for 4th stalk on Left hand side) - $6.06 I've also attached the DIY instructions if you want to try this yourself: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=28311
  7. JFP in PA
    This does not sound good. Most likely, something has failed and allowed coolant to intermix with the oil. Have the car flatbedded to a competent shop for diagnostics; do not drive it or even try to start it.
  8. JFP in PA
    True about Craftsman/sears quality, but just the same: They are still better than the crap I see a lot of people trying to use from Northern and other "discount" tool outlets. Recently, I received a Sears gift card, and having no other real use for it, I ordered some tools for the shop (sockets, extensions, etc., nothing complicated or unusual). My first surprise was to receive a confirmation email from some third party fulfillment house rather than from Sears, and the second surprise was what was eventually shipped out to me. Instead of getting all Craftsman sockets and tools as I had ordered, some of them were from other suppliers (SK, Gearwrench) even though the entire order I placed was for Craftsman. Third surprise was that the tools that were Craftsman had very poor finishes on them, some even had peeling chrome. When I called the "customer service" phone number, I found myself speaking to someone who obviously was not a native English speaker and had no basic tool knowledge, which made the conversation awkward to say the least. Eventually, they did send out replacements for the tools with issues, which again were an odd mix of some Craftsman and other brands, and which again came from a non Sears location. In their world, apparently all 5MM 1/4 drive deep sockets are interchangeable. Sorry, but I cannot recommend buying anything important or expensive from a business that is run that poorly..........
  9. JFP in PA
    Unfortunately, with Sears slowly "circling the drain", both the quality of their tools and their once ironclad warranty have started to suffer. I would be very cautious about buying tools for the long term from them as they may not be long for this world.
  10. JFP in PA
    I'm sure they have the same collection of nuts and bolts.
  11. JFP in PA
    Go to Lowes and buy longer versions of a couple of the bell housing bolts, cut their heads off and screw them in finger tight; that makes an excellent alignment guide and support to help get the gearbox back in.
  12. JFP in PA
    The Burmah product was for five speed manual gear boxes way back when, and was amber in color (as is the Shell product). I wasn't sure they even carried anymore as the Shell product covers both the 5 and 6 speed gearboxes.
  13. JFP in PA
    Leave the drain plug out of the trans until the new stuff arrives so it drains as much as possible, and then run some of the new fluid through the gear box before putting the drain plug in, you should be fine.
  14. JFP in PA
    I have no idea what he is talking about; there is no difference between the S and non S manual gear box lubricants....................... :eek: That said, if you are concerned about cleaning out whatever he originally sent you, have him send you an extra quart to run through the trans with the drain plug out, which should push out whatever is in there........
  15. JFP in PA
    A 1/2 drive 30-150 to 200 ft. lb. adjustable click style is probably the most useful, followed by the 3/8 drive 0-250 in lb. you already have. Do not scrimp on quality, these tools are a "lifetime" purchase, so get good ones. My personal preference is for Snap-On units, of which I own several ranging from a 2.5-50 inch pound click style driver (looks like a screw driver), up to a 3/4 drive 200-600 ft. lb. unit for axel nuts and the like. All are Snap-On, all have years of use, and still pass annual calibration testing without ever needing any adjustments. They have proven to be worth every penny paid for them.
  16. JFP in PA
    Common behavior if the oil is cool and the engine has not run for very long.
  17. JFP in PA
    It is nearly impossible to discern where an oil leak is coming from by looking at spots on the floor. You need to put the car up in the air, and start looking..................
  18. JFP in PA
    Depends upon whose underdrive pulley, and how it was installed. Some of these pulley's still have the TDC markings and opening for the pin in them, and as long as you didn't get Palaeolithic when cutting down the boss on the case, the OEM pin still works. For cases where the boss was totally butchered, or the pulley lacks markings or will not accomadate the pin, we fabricated an "arm" out of flat stock that bolts to the rear crank flange on one end, and to the engine case bolt holes for the bell housing on the other, and which is adjustable, to hold the engine at TDC. Works very well, and saves time. We also keep a stock pulley around for backup.
  19. JFP in PA
    Glad you found it.
  20. JFP in PA
    As long as it does not interfere in any way with the torque of the center bolt nut (e.g.: it sits in a recess that allows the nut to fully contact the flange), it should not be an issue. Just curious, whose kit are you using? Reason I ask it that Pelican's kit used an O-ring spacer before the center bolt nut, which keeps the nut off the O-ring, while the LN kit does not..........
  21. JFP in PA
    Sorry, my first response was incorrect (had to go look at an assembly), the small O-ring they provide goes inside the flange before the flange is installed. Be sure to put a small amount of lubricant (silicone would be best) on the inner O-ring surface before sliding the flange onto the center bolt shaft (see item #20 in the LN instructions). You can just see the O-ring is this enlarged photo:
  22. JFP in PA
    By "bearing shaft", I assume you are referring to the bearing center bolt: As you can see from this photo, the LN center bolt (on the left) does not have a grove cut in it for the seal ring that is on the OEM center bolt (right side). This is because many OEM IMS failures result in the center bolt failing at the grove area, so LN made the center bolt thicker and did not use the o-ring, which is also why you need to use the two special thread locker/wicking sealants I mentioned earlier.
  23. JFP in PA
    Perhaps I should have said "warm" rather than heat. Some people can take the word "heat" pretty far... ;) vs. :eek:
  24. JFP in PA
    With a true dry sump system on the Metzger engine, finding a place to put a dipstick would have been a mechanical nightmare; the electronic level system was the correct move. That said, these cars do not like to be overfilled with oil; so I would suggest warming the car and draining off some oil until you have it at the correct level using the display. As you have had parts of the intake system apart, I would have to say is sounds like something in the intake is leaking. It could be the new DV's, or simply a hose connection somewhere in the system is not seated or tight. If you don't have access to a smoke machine, it is going to have to be a process of elimination.
  25. JFP in PA
    I think the point of loosening the converter bolts while the Tip is still in the car comes from a lack of understanding on how to do it. A Tip equipped cars have an opening next to the starter where special tool 9595 (also known as a 5/16 metal rod) slides into the bell housing and into an opening in the converter next to the double bolt set (there are three of these bolt sets equally spaced around the converter). With this pin in place, the converter cannot rotate while the fasteners are removed through the starter opening. Once the two bolts are out, retract the pin and rotate the engine until then next pair appear in the starter opening, reinsert the pin and repeat. When the last of the six bolts are out, leave the pin in place as it will prevent the converter from moving or falling off while the trans is being separated from the engine. When you put the trans back, you simply reverse the process, again using the pin to hold the converter while mounting the Tip, and carefully replacing the six fasteners. One caveat: Do not drop any of the six converter bolts while reinstalling them, the only way to get one out of the bell housing if you do this is to pull the trans off the engine. Experience has shown that the bolts with the highest probability of being dropped are the fifth or sixth ones installed, which will obviously maximize the level of frustration and work involved. :eek:
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