JFP in PA

Have you checked your fuel delivery and pressure as I mentioned in my earlier post? Those codes are often related to fuel delivery problems, which would obviously cause hard starting.............

Only thing that I can think of off hand is the oil pump's pressure regulating spring and valve; some M96 cars have had issues with the spring and have had to replace it. Items #5, 25, and 26 below:

Check both your engine (particularly the front) mounts and your trans mounts; one or more may be torn..............

As you may find considerable interest in this, you might want to post the name or website of the aftermarket supplier you used.

The problem lies in the fact Porsche stopped all print publications of the service manuals sometime around 2004-05, and switched to an online subscription only service for non dealers. While they do offer multiple subscription levels (by the page to full access), the service is not inexpensive (around $5K per year for full access, which makes services like AllData more attractive options: http://repairinfo.alldatadiy.com/Porsche-911_GT3_997-2008-F6_3_6L-Online_Repair_Service_Manual_H2t8c.php). Your 996 manual will serve you well in many cases when working on the 997, but there will be notable differences in many areas.

You referring to the brakes sticking after getting wet, or the cold brakes in the morning problem? You need to switch to a more aggressive "biting" pad compound like some of the ceramics, but you also need to expect shorter rotor life as the result of the higher biting pads. Brake pads are always some sort of compromise, you are always trading off one thing for another (noise, dust, bite, etc.). You might also want to drop a note to the tech section at some of the pad manufacturer's, they may have some specific history concerning cold bite levels on their product lines that would be of help to your specific situation. We have switched some customers over to more aggressive Carbotech, Akebono, Hawk or Pagid pads to help in the cold, and while the brakes responded, noise and wear levels increased. Most prefer to just live with the OEM pads and warm them up a bit. And just be glad you don't have the $7K ceramic brakes option, they tend to really suck in very cold start ups.

You referring to the brakes sticking after getting wet, or the cold brakes in the morning problem?

It is just a light bit of rust forming on the rotors and causing the brakes to stick, not uncommon.

You need just the $20 electrical portion of the switch.

Well, considering that we have had customers impact crack the OEM plastic filter housing, it ain't far from the truth.

JFP, I have seen the LN spin on adapter and it does look well made. I know Porsche increased the size of the filter with the 977.2. Can you use a larger filter (surface area) with the LN adapter? Is this really worth the money and why. I heard the no by pass part but I though if you changed the filter regularly you would never go on bypass. Buying a filter cutter all hinges on this. You can get 5-6 oil analyses for the price of this stuff combined and it does give you a lot more information about the car than examining your oil filter. I suppose in a perfect world we would do both. The bypass valve in the stock cannister housing is a rather cheap device that gets tired over time and really should be replaced as it tends to open more frequently with age, often when it is not even needed. You can go to a longer filter as the LN adaptor is using a standard GM oil filter (specifically for the Corvette), but with the spin on's media area, and the finer pore size of the filter media, it really has not been needed, even on heavily tracked cars. As we run UOA's on most of our customer's cars, many with the LN adaptor, and to date have not seen any negatives from the filter size. You also need to watch how long a filter you choose as it will be hanging out under the car.

Just replacing the bearing is a bad idea in the extreme; the engine may already be full of metal grit from the bearing failure, which would promptly kill the LN bearing update. Pull the oil filter and drop the sump cover, if you find metal, the engine has to come apart for cleaing and a complete rebuild; there are no other viable options.

Rather doubt it as the fuel pump is pretty much a "plug and play" installation.

I think one of the major issues with some owners is that they are not ready or capable of undertaking at least some of the simpler repairs, and then end up trying to unload the car with a bunch of small and easily fixed problems because they received a horrendous estimate from a dealer. These cars are not particularly hard to work on, with certain exceptions, and most of the tools you purchase (like this one) can be used on just about any vehicle as well, so the investment is not "lost" if the car leave your stable at a later date.

Actually, there is a new design tool out that does an even better job (OTC 7135A or Great Neck 27175 are the same exact tool and can be found on Amazon for about $35):

Trying a replacement boot or boot cover on a tie rod end is often false economy as the internal damage is already done by the time you see it. Tie rod ends are not all that expensive or hard to replace, but you will need the correct tool to get it apart, and you will also need to at least have your alignment checked afterwards. The correct tie rod end tool looks like this:

This one is by Proform, and my personal favorite because all of the cutting wheels and bearings are replaceable:

True, but for the average DIY fix where it would only be used once or twice in its life, sometimes a cheaper but not as capable alternative fits the budget better.

Basically, but it gets the job done.

2005 was a transitional year for Porsche, some of the engine's had the serviceable (read replaceable) IMS bearing, while others carry the non serviceable (read total rebuild to change the IMS bearing). Unfortunately, there is no way to tell which bearing is in the car without pulling the trans and looking at it. If it is the non serviceable unit, remove the rear bearing seal and put the car back together. If the car carries the serviceable unit, upgrade the car to the LN replacement unit (now you can put a dual row LN replacement in a car that came with the OEM single row) and you are golden.

Motul is a good oil which performs well. Only downsides would be it can be pricey (what isn't these days) and not everyone carries it.

Just be aware that oil discussions often start off well with strong opinions backed up by well founded technical backgrounds, and then often promptly degrade into shouting matches and personal verbal assaults, which will not be tolerated on this site. Oil specs are critical, and often very, very confusing. With the US API moving from being the technical gatekeeper of the North American petroleum products markets to becoming the lobbying arm and public relations department, the people that produce the products are left to certify that their products meet the standards, with no independent verification or oversight. The API also allows the manufacturer's to substitute ingredients or even totally reformulate without retesting. The European ACEA, on the other hand, require that member's join their technical concord agreement (read spend serious money) and then submit finished products only to approved independent lab for testing to verify that they meet the ACEA specs (read expensive and time consuming). Under the ACEA technical concord, any formulation change, no matter how slight, requires resubmission and recertification before the product can bear the ACEA ratings. As the direct result of the cost of the ACEA protocols, and the fact that a lot of well known products do not fare well in them, a lot of smaller "blenders" do not have any ACEA ratings, nor do they participate in the stringent testing. This clouds the view even more; Joe Gibbs products are very well thought of by many people that both test used oil and understand the technology, but the Gibbs products are not ACEA, simply because they have chosen not to become ACEA members. Other well known brands use a marketing linguistic tricks to appear ACEA when they are not ("approved for use in ACEA applications" is one of my favorites; approved by whom?). So to get to your question, how do you know what to look for? Look for ACEA A3, B3, B4 ratings; products that meet these three ratings have ability to stand up to high heat/high shear conditions and still remain in grade (demonstrate the original viscosity ratings such as 10W-40). They also do well under fuel dilution events which are more common with direct injection engines.

The other thread was not marked solved, it was locked by the site owner after the postings went off topic and became personal in nature. Keep this thread on topic and unemotional and it will stay active...............

Check your fuel pressure, I have seen this happen when the pump gets marginal.

They are an aftermarket item, you can get them from Jegs, Summit Racing, and Amazon online: