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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. I can fully appreciate Silver_TT's point, while the PDK is fascinating technology, it is also not everyone's cup of tea. Some simply are traditional and prefer the direct involvement of a manual gear box over one controlled by a computer, while others are more "early adopter's" and fully embrace the change. But from a maintenance and repair stand point, the PDK currently remains a bit of a conundrum as there is precious little technical data available of the type a shop would want if they had to work on one, and as Silver correctly pointed out, even normal maintenance service like clutch oil changes requires the use of a PIWIS system. Many dealers also confine themselves to normal service and software updates on the PDK, preferring to swap them out if even a minor problem reoccurs due to the complexity of the system; a pathway that if it remains unchanged going forward is going to be very expensive out of warranty. So people such as the original poster need to look at a 5 year old PDK car without a CPO with their eyes open to the downside potential of these new systems until the aftermarket develops more technical resources and tools to work on and maintain these new transmissions.
  2. +1 Walk away, quickly. PDK issues are not to be trifled with, even the dealers have very limited options as to what they can do before moving to a reman transmission.
  3. Been around for a bit, Jake Raby has commented on it on other forums, does not seem to like the roller bearing approach as it cannot stand up to off axis movement by the shaft.
  4. That is weird as the FRA range limits on adaptation for both banks are Rich: 1.25 and Lean: 0.75; so the car seems "inbounds" when the car is under load. What are the TRA (idle) values, and have you tried clearing the code and then seeing if and when it returns? I'm wondering if you have an intermittent issue here............. Fuel filling problems were common on the earlier 986/996 cars, do a search and you will find several recommendations on how others have addressed there issues.
  5. Ahsai is correct about reading your FRA (load) and TRA (idle) adaptation values for the bank. Far too often, we see people reading what they perceive as O2 sensor codes that are actually not the sensors, they are the sensor's response to another problem; yours is exactly that. P1126 indicates your bank is reading lean, not because of the sensors on that bank, but because of what they are seeing: not enough fuel. If the sensor had a voltage, resistance or communications issue, you would get specific codes for that. This P1126 code typically comes from either low fuel delivery (pump pressure or delivery rate, or a plugged injector), or an air leak in the system. Check your fuel system pressure and delivery rates, if they are OK, pull the plugs on that bank and look at their color; a lean cylinder from a bad injector will be white while the others are brownish and sooty. If the plugs are OK or even in color, you have a vacuum leak somewhere in the system, and this is where it typically gets very messy as the leaks are often very small, or internal to the system (jammed or bypassed valve on the EVAP control system). These leaks just don't jump out at you, you need to systematically search for them, particularly looking at any vacuum connections that feed into the intake for that bank.
  6. Because the ethanol is blended in at the last min. with other additives as it is being loaded into the truck for shipment, the alcohol level can bounce around quite a bit (hey, they ain't stupid, they don't want gas with ethanol sitting around in their tanks, just in yours :eek: ). But in any case, when isn't it winter in Minnesota :thumbup:
  7. +1, also a very valid point. Gas blenders add more low temp volatiles in the winter to aid very cold weather starting, which will degrade MPG as well.
  8. There is ethanol in all gas, all the time, not just winter months. But, I agree with you, ethanol yeilds lower MPG's, for sure. I have an enthanol test kit for fuels. When I was testing my gas, I saw ranges from 4% ethanol to 9% all year long. No real rhyme or reason. Ethanol is roughly 33% lower in heat content (BTU) than gas, so you will get both less power and lower mileage as the alcohol content rises in mixed fuels.
  9. Most of the 911 variants carry the larger oil cooler from the factory, it is the Boxsters that got short changed on this one.
  10. I would also add a 160F thermostat to that equation as well.
  11. OK, this will help you with testing the dual mass: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/44-TRANS-Clutch/DualFlywheelTechBulletin.pdf Even if it passes the "twist test", you still need to look at the surface for unevenness or severe pitting; remember that the dual mass cannot be resurfaced, so if it fails twist or looks like the Moon, time for a new unit. I would not hesitate to replace the IMS with the LN dual row (your 1999 should be a factory dual row), not all that expensive and you will sleep a lot better once it is in. Also a major plus at sale time......
  12. The so called "ovaling" results from multiple sources; starting with overly hot engine coolant temperatures, thin cylinder walls, alloy selection for the cylinders, high piston thrust angles from the basic Boxster engine design, excessive heat build up on the piston skirts, and pure wear (scoring) that thins the walls further. A superior oil (one with high heat and shear resistance, better film strength's, as well as gobs of ZDDP) will help to address the skirt heat and ultimate wall scoring that tends to occur; significantly slowing the process. Here, to put a more permanent end to the problem, we bore out the cases and put in superior cylinder liners on engine's up for rebuild, but for more pedestrian daily drivers the more economic approach is to go with better oil (changed more frequently), lower the engine temperatures, and improve oil cooling where possible; all of which contribute to significantly lessening the process.
  13. One potentially misleading issue with static resistance testing: Coils often test fine on the bench, but then break down electrically under hot load conditions. So if the unit is suspect, test it on the bench, but then swap it with a another coil pack from the engine that is working correctly and see if the misfire moves to that cylinder. If it does, the coil pack is toast.
  14. "Hope" and "reality" are often two different subjects when money is involved. Porsche dealerships are not usually going to source a boneyard replacement engine, but that does not always apply to everyone else. Smaller displacement engines are often quite a bit cheaper in the aftermarket than the large displacement 911 units, and if you object is just to get the car ready for sale or trade, you would be surprised at what happens. If this type of thing only happens once or twice, that would be one thing; but it happens more often than you might imagine.
  15. Not you, sorry. Many others gave me giref about "debri" on another forum for my theories. I appreciate and read everything here you guys post. I think Jake is careful to say too much about his research but I hope he goes into detail in his new book. He got into a discussion specifically on oil intrusion into the shaft with someone that was looking at creating his own version of the DOF system, which I think took place on the 986 forum website. In any case, he was obviously opposed to allowing oil to collect inside the shaft.
  16. I would fully agree that OEM bearings with failed seals have oil in the shaft, but at the same time I personally have not seen a used LN bearing allow oil to leak into the shaft to any great degree. Add to the fact that Raby has commented against allowing oil intrusion into the shaft as well (no, I do not have a web quote to refer to, you would need to research that one), and he also specifically puts plugs into the shaft to stop oil intrusion on his engines, so he must have a valid reason to block the oil movement. I'd suggest you refer questions about why to him directly. As for the shaft pressurizing, I don't see that happening as the result of the way the oil pump is driven by the shaft at the other end; it is not really sealed, so I don't see how it can become pressurized. As for oil compromising the oil seals, while that may be true of the OEM seals, I do not believe the LN units use the same seal materials as the OEM bearings, but I also do not know how theirs are different from the OEM seals. I completely do not understand your comment on debris protection afforded by the seals; I have never made any comment on that.
  17. Check out your local AutoZone as well, they were recently offering a buy one, get one free for Techron products.
  18. Sold by most auto parts outlets as well as online (Amazon and other). Get the 20 gallon size as most Porsche tanks are over 18 gallons in capacity.
  19. Techron is an excellent product, often used by the dealerships as well as most "indies". We recommend using it at least once a year, in the last tank of gas just before an oil/filter service (it often causes the oil to collect some carbon and other crud during the cleaning process), particularly for cars being prepped for winter "hibernation". Techron often cures niggling idle problems as well as off idle stumbling issues related to varnished injectors.
  20. First of all, the engine serial numbers are not matched to the VIN, but are engine size and type coded, so there is no "numbers matching" issue per say. If the engine is a factory reman (carries an "AT" in the engine number), and is the correct size and model for the car, it basically carries all the latest updates as of its install date, so it may actually be better than the original lump. With some model years, there were some problems that led to engine replacement under warranty; that is a simple fact of life and should not be a major concern of "deduct" item on a PPI. That said, there are more than a few cars running around with the wrong engines in them, usually a much smaller displacement bone yard unit. We did a PPI on a beautiful 996 C4 that was absolutely immaculate, except for the 2.7L Boxster engine in the engine bay. This would obviously degrade the car's value, but that is why you do a PPI on these cars.
  21. I'm not all that sure that removing both seals is a good idea as it could flood the shaft unnecessarily. The LN kits all have seals facing the shaft side, and the IMS Solution uses a pressed in plug to seal the shaft from oil as well. As for using COTS bearings, knowing more than a bit about the effort and trial and error that went into the LN designs, I would really caution anyone going that route, you are potentially playing a form of "Russian roulette" in an attempt to save a few bucks. It simply ain't worth it unless you have a lot of disposable income you are willing to commit to your cost savings efforts.....................but in the end, it is your car and your money.
  22. Plastic bits are no where as much a potential threat as metal shards. It is not uncommon to find small plastic bits in either the M96 or 97 engine sumps; the chain tensioners have plastic wear pads on them that erode over time and the bits collect in the sump. The pin section is a bit more concerning as it may be the tensioner pad pivot, which points to bigger problems. Let them have a look under warranty, they may still decide to pull and replace the lump depending upon what they find.
  23. I would be running a voltage drop across the main cables (battery to ground, battery to starter, etc.) looking for signs of corrosion. This is a very common problem on the 996, to the point that Porsche released a TSB on the subject and new battery and starter cables assemblies with more corrosion resistant connections. Not a difficult or expensive fix, but it is time consuming due to how the cables are routed. Do a quick search here, this has been written up multiple times.
  24. Just be aware that the bearings that LN sells are made to their specification's with specific cage materials, etc. Jake and LN learned a lot about what works, and what doesn't, and even hired a bearing engineer to help them when they were doing the R&D on their ceramic bearing, so sourcing an "off the shelf" look alike may not end up being the same. Others have tried this route before, one even posted about their low cost alternative on multiple websites, including this one; and then promptly disappeared after installations went catastrophically wrong. While Jake may come across as a bit mercurial for some tastes, he has done his homework; the installed base for the LN ceramic hybrids, now in the tens of thousands, speaks for itself. Add in their new dual row ceramic replacement for the OEM single row bearing, with patent protection, and it is going to be difficult to try and be price competitive, particularly when buyer's realize they are making a nearly $20K bet on whatever bearing they choose.......
  25. It might help, but if they are corroded or severely varnished, it is not going to do much. Normally, I would suggest pulling the injectors and sending them to a shop that specializes in refurbishing used injectors, they have more specialized equipment to both properly clean and test them.
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