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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. I would also add a 160F thermostat to that equation as well.
  2. OK, this will help you with testing the dual mass: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/44-TRANS-Clutch/DualFlywheelTechBulletin.pdf Even if it passes the "twist test", you still need to look at the surface for unevenness or severe pitting; remember that the dual mass cannot be resurfaced, so if it fails twist or looks like the Moon, time for a new unit. I would not hesitate to replace the IMS with the LN dual row (your 1999 should be a factory dual row), not all that expensive and you will sleep a lot better once it is in. Also a major plus at sale time......
  3. The so called "ovaling" results from multiple sources; starting with overly hot engine coolant temperatures, thin cylinder walls, alloy selection for the cylinders, high piston thrust angles from the basic Boxster engine design, excessive heat build up on the piston skirts, and pure wear (scoring) that thins the walls further. A superior oil (one with high heat and shear resistance, better film strength's, as well as gobs of ZDDP) will help to address the skirt heat and ultimate wall scoring that tends to occur; significantly slowing the process. Here, to put a more permanent end to the problem, we bore out the cases and put in superior cylinder liners on engine's up for rebuild, but for more pedestrian daily drivers the more economic approach is to go with better oil (changed more frequently), lower the engine temperatures, and improve oil cooling where possible; all of which contribute to significantly lessening the process.
  4. One potentially misleading issue with static resistance testing: Coils often test fine on the bench, but then break down electrically under hot load conditions. So if the unit is suspect, test it on the bench, but then swap it with a another coil pack from the engine that is working correctly and see if the misfire moves to that cylinder. If it does, the coil pack is toast.
  5. "Hope" and "reality" are often two different subjects when money is involved. Porsche dealerships are not usually going to source a boneyard replacement engine, but that does not always apply to everyone else. Smaller displacement engines are often quite a bit cheaper in the aftermarket than the large displacement 911 units, and if you object is just to get the car ready for sale or trade, you would be surprised at what happens. If this type of thing only happens once or twice, that would be one thing; but it happens more often than you might imagine.
  6. Not you, sorry. Many others gave me giref about "debri" on another forum for my theories. I appreciate and read everything here you guys post. I think Jake is careful to say too much about his research but I hope he goes into detail in his new book. He got into a discussion specifically on oil intrusion into the shaft with someone that was looking at creating his own version of the DOF system, which I think took place on the 986 forum website. In any case, he was obviously opposed to allowing oil to collect inside the shaft.
  7. I would fully agree that OEM bearings with failed seals have oil in the shaft, but at the same time I personally have not seen a used LN bearing allow oil to leak into the shaft to any great degree. Add to the fact that Raby has commented against allowing oil intrusion into the shaft as well (no, I do not have a web quote to refer to, you would need to research that one), and he also specifically puts plugs into the shaft to stop oil intrusion on his engines, so he must have a valid reason to block the oil movement. I'd suggest you refer questions about why to him directly. As for the shaft pressurizing, I don't see that happening as the result of the way the oil pump is driven by the shaft at the other end; it is not really sealed, so I don't see how it can become pressurized. As for oil compromising the oil seals, while that may be true of the OEM seals, I do not believe the LN units use the same seal materials as the OEM bearings, but I also do not know how theirs are different from the OEM seals. I completely do not understand your comment on debris protection afforded by the seals; I have never made any comment on that.
  8. Check out your local AutoZone as well, they were recently offering a buy one, get one free for Techron products.
  9. Sold by most auto parts outlets as well as online (Amazon and other). Get the 20 gallon size as most Porsche tanks are over 18 gallons in capacity.
  10. Techron is an excellent product, often used by the dealerships as well as most "indies". We recommend using it at least once a year, in the last tank of gas just before an oil/filter service (it often causes the oil to collect some carbon and other crud during the cleaning process), particularly for cars being prepped for winter "hibernation". Techron often cures niggling idle problems as well as off idle stumbling issues related to varnished injectors.
  11. First of all, the engine serial numbers are not matched to the VIN, but are engine size and type coded, so there is no "numbers matching" issue per say. If the engine is a factory reman (carries an "AT" in the engine number), and is the correct size and model for the car, it basically carries all the latest updates as of its install date, so it may actually be better than the original lump. With some model years, there were some problems that led to engine replacement under warranty; that is a simple fact of life and should not be a major concern of "deduct" item on a PPI. That said, there are more than a few cars running around with the wrong engines in them, usually a much smaller displacement bone yard unit. We did a PPI on a beautiful 996 C4 that was absolutely immaculate, except for the 2.7L Boxster engine in the engine bay. This would obviously degrade the car's value, but that is why you do a PPI on these cars.
  12. I'm not all that sure that removing both seals is a good idea as it could flood the shaft unnecessarily. The LN kits all have seals facing the shaft side, and the IMS Solution uses a pressed in plug to seal the shaft from oil as well. As for using COTS bearings, knowing more than a bit about the effort and trial and error that went into the LN designs, I would really caution anyone going that route, you are potentially playing a form of "Russian roulette" in an attempt to save a few bucks. It simply ain't worth it unless you have a lot of disposable income you are willing to commit to your cost savings efforts.....................but in the end, it is your car and your money.
  13. Plastic bits are no where as much a potential threat as metal shards. It is not uncommon to find small plastic bits in either the M96 or 97 engine sumps; the chain tensioners have plastic wear pads on them that erode over time and the bits collect in the sump. The pin section is a bit more concerning as it may be the tensioner pad pivot, which points to bigger problems. Let them have a look under warranty, they may still decide to pull and replace the lump depending upon what they find.
  14. I would be running a voltage drop across the main cables (battery to ground, battery to starter, etc.) looking for signs of corrosion. This is a very common problem on the 996, to the point that Porsche released a TSB on the subject and new battery and starter cables assemblies with more corrosion resistant connections. Not a difficult or expensive fix, but it is time consuming due to how the cables are routed. Do a quick search here, this has been written up multiple times.
  15. Just be aware that the bearings that LN sells are made to their specification's with specific cage materials, etc. Jake and LN learned a lot about what works, and what doesn't, and even hired a bearing engineer to help them when they were doing the R&D on their ceramic bearing, so sourcing an "off the shelf" look alike may not end up being the same. Others have tried this route before, one even posted about their low cost alternative on multiple websites, including this one; and then promptly disappeared after installations went catastrophically wrong. While Jake may come across as a bit mercurial for some tastes, he has done his homework; the installed base for the LN ceramic hybrids, now in the tens of thousands, speaks for itself. Add in their new dual row ceramic replacement for the OEM single row bearing, with patent protection, and it is going to be difficult to try and be price competitive, particularly when buyer's realize they are making a nearly $20K bet on whatever bearing they choose.......
  16. It might help, but if they are corroded or severely varnished, it is not going to do much. Normally, I would suggest pulling the injectors and sending them to a shop that specializes in refurbishing used injectors, they have more specialized equipment to both properly clean and test them.
  17. Last time I checked, this was the list of approved gear oils: Approved Manual Transmission Oils 000 043 204 20 Mobil (Mobilube PTX) - 20 liter container 000 043 204 19 Shell (Transaxle) - 20 liter container 999 917 546 00 Shell (Transaxle) - 1 liter container
  18. Definitely possible, fuel goes stale and gums up everything if it is allowed to sit. In the US with gas containing 10% ethanol, the problem is even worse because the ethanol retains a lot of water and cause corrosion in the fuel system as well. If you are going to store a car for a prolonged period, a quality fuel stabilizer like StaBil is highly recommended, and will prevent fuel degradation for as long as two years.
  19. If you have already done a Boxster, this should be old home week for you, with the exception of four wheel drive. Be sure to check the flywheel for unevenness and twist, you don't want to be doing this twice.
  20. Please do not double post. Each of the first three years of the Boxster (97, 98, 99) each had a different oil pump. That said, as the pump is internal to the engine, I do not see what difference the pump makes.
  21. Stop driving the car, let it cool down and flush/bleed the clutch, then see how it drives; if the clutch is gone, it's gone and there is no reason to belabor it. And if that is the case, you have a golden opportunity to not only replace the clutch with a new one, but do the RMS and IMS updates as well while you are in there.
  22. Basically, if anything, it is easier to get at than a 986............
  23. When was the last time the clutch hydraulics were flushed?
  24. Problem is that to install a replacement, the unit has to be coded, which requires either a PST II or PIWIS unit, nothing else will work.
  25. You are showing all the classic signs of an immobilizer that has fried itself after getting very wet. And, no, there is no realistic way to bypass the immobilizer, it would not be much of a theft deterrent if there was. I think it is time to get the car on a PIWIS unit and evaluate if the unit can be saved or if you are in the market for a new one.
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