JFP in PA

Under the forward center console is a plug for the factory cell phone setup, which has an ignition switched lead. Plug wire colors: Brown = Ground, Red / Green = Switched 12 volts, Green / Black = Unswitched 12 volts, Yellow / Black = Telephone Mute. Tap into the Red/Green wire and you are in business.

Stant makes such an adaptor, but it is listed as for VW. He definitely needs to pressure test the system. So just to confirm, you're saying Stant makes an adapter to test the cap? There are plenty of alternatives for adapters to test the system. Yes, but it was listed in their system as for a VW/Audi (now corrected), which makes sense as the two vehicle's share a lot of components. We found out about it because we had one and noticed it fit and worked perfectly. Pressure Tester Adapter Type: Radiator cap 12037 Make:PORSCHE Model:CAYENNE Submodel:S Beginning Year:2003 Ending Year:2004 Engine Type:V8 Liter:4.5 CC:4511 Engine Size:4.5L/4511cc Engine Family:Porsche V8 Adapter Material (Application):Aluminum Adapter Finish (Application):Black anodized/Zinc plated

I would also note the code 54, which says the radio is not present, a common problem on cars with retrofitted audio system is the missing radio chassis ground.

Although I've not been inside the M96 engine, from my recollection of many 2.4L, 2.7L and 3.0L air cooled engines, these typically used an RTV-type case sealant. These pieces are sort of trandslucent, almost what I'd expect a piece of dried shellac or varnish to look like. Is that basically the sort of case sealant being used these days? And while I haven't checked any of these to see if they have any elastic property, I'd expect a dried, RTV-type sealant to still have some elasticity. Not always the case after exposure to heat cycling and oil, and Porsche uses more than one type of sealant in these engines.

First of all, for future reference, never rotate one of these engines counter clockwise, doing so can put this interference motor in a position it does not want to be and end up causing mechanical damage. Code P1531 is for no change in the cam angle on bank #1; as you have had the engine out of the car, I'd start by looking at the wiring and connectors for the VarioCam system and cam position sensor on bank #1, it may simply be disconnected.

When altering the Turbos or waste gate controls, you can only "guesstimate" the power level changes; what you need to do is test the components on a prober chassis dyno to find out what the real numbers end up at.

Stant makes such an adaptor, but it is listed as for VW. He definitely needs to pressure test the system.

+1, I would concur; this stuff is rather a common occurrence and nothing to be overly concerned about.

Here's a set made by a company called "Race Ramps"; but I am sure there are others:

We use BendPak lifts, both because of their quality reputation, service support, and the vast number of optional accessories they make for all their lifts. For the four post lifts, they offer everything from adjustable drip pans to keep leaky cars in the overhead position from dripping on the car below, to sliding jack pads that allow you to pick up the car on the rack for service purposes, and they even make a "double wide" four post that allows you to store or work on four cars in a two car area: We have a couple of customer's with four post that do a lot of their own maintenance and detailing work with the car jacked up on the upper rack, and they seem completely happy with the way the system works. The only down side I can see to the 4 posters is getting cars like my C4S on the lift without damaging their noses. 10 foot 2x 12S might work. JFP probably just uses a 2 poster for thes cars but he may have a recommendation on how to do this safely?? You can use wooden or even rubber ramps to augment the ramps that come on the four post lifts to keep the nose off the lift while loading. Probably the worst case scenario I have personally seen is a customer with a 458 Italia Spyder Ferrari, which has the unenviable combination of a very low stance and long front overhang: The owner had to purchase a set of commercially made long rubber ramps just to get the car into his driveway, and subsequently found that they were also perfect for getting it onto the four post as well. Sometime you have to improvise; after all, "speed cost money, how fast do you want to go?"

We use BendPak lifts, both because of their quality reputation, service support, and the vast number of optional accessories they make for all their lifts. For the four post lifts, they offer everything from adjustable drip pans to keep leaky cars in the overhead position from dripping on the car below, to sliding jack pads that allow you to pick up the car on the rack for service purposes, and they even make a "double wide" four post that allows you to store or work on four cars in a two car area: We have a couple of customer's with four post that do a lot of their own maintenance and detailing work with the car jacked up on the upper rack, and they seem completely happy with the way the system works.

Porsche has always recommended against storing the car with the suspension fully extended (hanging), and at one time circulated a technical brief concerning denying warranty coverage associated with this type of storage. As someone that owns both two and four post lifts, I can tell you that a two post offers better access for service and maintenance purposes, but can often be impractical in a residential garage as the two post have to sit several feet outboard of the car's space, which can be space prohibitive in many home garage areas: Two post lifts also typically require a minimum of four inch thick floors (rebar reinforced preferred), which is usually more than you would find in a home garage. Your floor can be cut and modified to accomplished this, but it will add cost. You also have the overhead clearance to be concerned about, so check with your proposed lift vendor to be sure the two post will actually fit. Four post lifts are much narrower and can fit in lower ceiling garages, and can be adapted to handle most service tasks. Because the four post literally "sit on the floor", most home garage floors can easily accommodate them without modifications: Unless your garage can handle the two post, you may be way ahead in both the grief and bucks departments to consider a four post.

Welcome! :welcome: I am not aware of another site that can do this for you, but we do decode VIN numbers here for contributing member's, so it's a great time to become one!

Forgot you have the DFi motor, which does use a 36 MM socket: Using a 36 MM socket will not harm the housing in any way, and you could always get one of the neat billet replacements on the market:

Hazet 2169 Wrench, Oil filter, 74.4mm, 14 point; Samstag tools and other, about $40.

By far, the easiest way to remove a Boxster shift knob is to put the top down, and stand in the car straddling the console, pull up stoutly on the knob. Just be careful of your balance, some people end up lying on the rear boot at the end of this process......... :eek:

Small suggestion here: Never clear check engine lights before reading and noting the codes. Far too often, when people pull the battery cable and clear what they think is a single code problem, they actually clear multiple codes that could have proven critical in quickly and correctly diagnosing and permanently fixing the problem(s). And when the light comes back on and they take the car to a shop, the tech now has very limited data to work from, which then ends up costing the owner more money (and aggravation) then it should. When the check engine (or other MIL's) light up, your car is trying to tell you what is actually going on, and may have stored multiple codes that took some time to trigger the light; by disconnecting the battery, you have permanently thrown all that data away............... We see this happen far too often, and it ends up costing you more money.

According to Magnuson / Moss Warranty Act (P.L. 93-637) is a United States federal law, (15 U.S.C. § 2301 et seq.), the dealer would have to prove conclusively that the modification's you made were the cause of the failure before they could void your warranty.

Like a lot of things in life, brake pads are a compromise; softer compounds dust more and wear faster, but are quiet. Harder compounds often "bite" better and wear longer, but are noisy. You need to check with your indy and find out which type of pads he used; shims, dampeners, and brake grease could help.

You have just used two completely incompatible concepts in one question: "best reliable lithium ion battery" and "reasonable price".............................. The factory Lithium battery is running about $1800 (US), aftermarket units are about $1400.

While dealers, and indies, can turn off the TPMS, you will find that for the most part, none of them will due to the liability issues with disabling a Federally mandated safety system. $1200 is excessive. You can probably find suitable replacement sensors in the after market for $60-85 each, so do a search. But you are still going to have to dismount the tires to replace them, then mount and rebalance the tires, which is going to cost $. When people ask about this type of problem, we normally suggest budgeting $100 per wheel for the sensors and about 1 1/2 hours shop time at the prevailing local rate.

A PPI is your last chance to catch something that could significantly alter your interest in the car before you part with some serious money. Quite often, a good PPI will identify some small items that need fixing, which you can use a leverage in your negotiations on price. You need to remember that once you have paid for the car, everything becomes your problem. We have seen some beautiful cars that totally took a dive during a PPI, including find 2.7L Boxster engines where a much larger engine should have been. You really do not want to be on the hook when that happens. A recent poster here told about finding a 2009 PDK equipped car that was supposed to have a small oil leak in the PDK, closer inspection found the car needed a new $17K transmission. I'd strongly suggest you don't go there............. I'd suggest you contact the local PCA chapter where you live, they can probably give you a list of shops in your area that can do the PPI.

Two possibilities: particles worn off the cam chain tensioning paddle wear pads, or small flakes of sealant that broke loose in the engine. Both are common and nothing to be concerned about in small amounts.

We get customers that call in after freezing themselves out of their cars asking what to do, we tell them to wait for it to warm up, thaw out, and dry completely before trying to get into the car. Our local Porsche dealer parts guy once told me they sell more replacement door handles during freezing weather than the rest of the year combined..............

Possibly; high pressure fuel pump issues are fairly well known, fuel intrusion from the DFI is leading to cylinder wall scoring issues, and more importantly there have been some multiple reports of abnormal cam chain wear. If the chain fails, the end result would be the same as an IMS failure. Argh, that's disappointing to say the least. Thanks for the info. I was hoping the 9A1 a bullet proof engine :( The closest thing Porsche has produced to being bullet proof was the Metzger lump (now discontinued) that used to come in the Turbo and GT cars. Brutally strong, and ridiculously expensive; but you could still break it if you really tried.