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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Small suggestion here: Never clear check engine lights before reading and noting the codes. Far too often, when people pull the battery cable and clear what they think is a single code problem, they actually clear multiple codes that could have proven critical in quickly and correctly diagnosing and permanently fixing the problem(s). And when the light comes back on and they take the car to a shop, the tech now has very limited data to work from, which then ends up costing the owner more money (and aggravation) then it should. When the check engine (or other MIL's) light up, your car is trying to tell you what is actually going on, and may have stored multiple codes that took some time to trigger the light; by disconnecting the battery, you have permanently thrown all that data away............... We see this happen far too often, and it ends up costing you more money.
  2. According to Magnuson / Moss Warranty Act (P.L. 93-637) is a United States federal law, (15 U.S.C. § 2301 et seq.), the dealer would have to prove conclusively that the modification's you made were the cause of the failure before they could void your warranty.
  3. Like a lot of things in life, brake pads are a compromise; softer compounds dust more and wear faster, but are quiet. Harder compounds often "bite" better and wear longer, but are noisy. You need to check with your indy and find out which type of pads he used; shims, dampeners, and brake grease could help.
  4. You have just used two completely incompatible concepts in one question: "best reliable lithium ion battery" and "reasonable price".............................. The factory Lithium battery is running about $1800 (US), aftermarket units are about $1400.
  5. While dealers, and indies, can turn off the TPMS, you will find that for the most part, none of them will due to the liability issues with disabling a Federally mandated safety system. $1200 is excessive. You can probably find suitable replacement sensors in the after market for $60-85 each, so do a search. But you are still going to have to dismount the tires to replace them, then mount and rebalance the tires, which is going to cost $. When people ask about this type of problem, we normally suggest budgeting $100 per wheel for the sensors and about 1 1/2 hours shop time at the prevailing local rate.
  6. A PPI is your last chance to catch something that could significantly alter your interest in the car before you part with some serious money. Quite often, a good PPI will identify some small items that need fixing, which you can use a leverage in your negotiations on price. You need to remember that once you have paid for the car, everything becomes your problem. We have seen some beautiful cars that totally took a dive during a PPI, including find 2.7L Boxster engines where a much larger engine should have been. You really do not want to be on the hook when that happens. A recent poster here told about finding a 2009 PDK equipped car that was supposed to have a small oil leak in the PDK, closer inspection found the car needed a new $17K transmission. I'd strongly suggest you don't go there............. I'd suggest you contact the local PCA chapter where you live, they can probably give you a list of shops in your area that can do the PPI.
  7. Two possibilities: particles worn off the cam chain tensioning paddle wear pads, or small flakes of sealant that broke loose in the engine. Both are common and nothing to be concerned about in small amounts.
  8. We get customers that call in after freezing themselves out of their cars asking what to do, we tell them to wait for it to warm up, thaw out, and dry completely before trying to get into the car. Our local Porsche dealer parts guy once told me they sell more replacement door handles during freezing weather than the rest of the year combined..............
  9. Possibly; high pressure fuel pump issues are fairly well known, fuel intrusion from the DFI is leading to cylinder wall scoring issues, and more importantly there have been some multiple reports of abnormal cam chain wear. If the chain fails, the end result would be the same as an IMS failure. Argh, that's disappointing to say the least. Thanks for the info. I was hoping the 9A1 a bullet proof engine :( The closest thing Porsche has produced to being bullet proof was the Metzger lump (now discontinued) that used to come in the Turbo and GT cars. Brutally strong, and ridiculously expensive; but you could still break it if you really tried.
  10. Realistically, there is no way to do what you want, and even if you could get running water onto the car, you risk freezing the doors and windows in place. If you cannot find a detail shop that will wash and dry the car indoors in a warm environment, you are better off leaving it dirty.
  11. +1, definitely a Chinese clone/knock off of an outdated and no longer supported version of the Durametric system. Do not support these clowns, there have been reports of some of these things creating expensive problems when hooked up to the car. Buy the real thing from the only company supporting the DIY Porsche owner's, Durametric.
  12. Possibly; high pressure fuel pump issues are fairly well known, fuel intrusion from the DFI is leading to cylinder wall scoring issues, and more importantly there have been some multiple reports of abnormal cam chain wear. If the chain fails, the end result would be the same as an IMS failure.
  13. Good catch, the 996 has three drains in the front of the car in the cowl area beneath the battery tray. If you have access to the 996 Bentley manual, check page 50-6 for a diagram of where they are; one is right in the area of your photo.
  14. I can't think of anything that operates at a specific speed for your model year, the EVAP system opens to vent fuel tank fumes stored in the activated charcoal under certain conditions, as does the SAI system, but they are not speed related in any way to my knowledge. I would suggest that once you get your hands on the Durametric, utilize its excellent data acquision abilities to log the car's variables over a lower speed session, and then above 40 MPH; then compare them for differences. Something has to be changing.
  15. First of all, get the car scanned with a Porsche specific tool, we have learned to not always trust data generated by third party scan tools, they sometimes feed you erroneous data and send you on an unnecessary wild goose chase. Verify the throttle position data with the Porsche tool, if it is in the fully closed position when the RPM's seem to hang up, check the fuel trim data to see if the car is momentarily either rich or lean. If rich, you may have an injector issue which the Porsche tool will help to isolate to one bank or the other. If it goes lean, it is an air leak somewhere in the system, which is not necessarily a simple loose or disconnected hose, it could be somewhere internal to the system like the EVAP purge or vent valves momentarily opening. Problems like this are difficult to diagnose, as you are finding out; you need to collect as much verifiable data to try and isolate the source.
  16. IMHO, issues with the previous generation M96 & M97 engines are not relevant to the 9A1 DFI engine in your car. They are significantly more stout and reliable than those ever hoped to be. Ask me how I know. I agree you should insist they replace the motor with a PCNA rebuilt 9A1 with a warranty. It is surprising to hear they are considering rebuilding it. One would think having the failed motor sent back to the factory for an autopsy would be more valuable to Porsche. Especially because of the greatly reduced failure rates of the newer motor. Plus it would probably be less expensive than a dealer rebuild and would certainly result in a happier repeat customer, but you never know. Your point about the M96/97 engine's issues not being relevant is for the most part correct; however, the 9A1 design has also shown some unique problems of its own.
  17. I can fully appreciate Silver_TT's point, while the PDK is fascinating technology, it is also not everyone's cup of tea. Some simply are traditional and prefer the direct involvement of a manual gear box over one controlled by a computer, while others are more "early adopter's" and fully embrace the change. But from a maintenance and repair stand point, the PDK currently remains a bit of a conundrum as there is precious little technical data available of the type a shop would want if they had to work on one, and as Silver correctly pointed out, even normal maintenance service like clutch oil changes requires the use of a PIWIS system. Many dealers also confine themselves to normal service and software updates on the PDK, preferring to swap them out if even a minor problem reoccurs due to the complexity of the system; a pathway that if it remains unchanged going forward is going to be very expensive out of warranty. So people such as the original poster need to look at a 5 year old PDK car without a CPO with their eyes open to the downside potential of these new systems until the aftermarket develops more technical resources and tools to work on and maintain these new transmissions.
  18. +1 Walk away, quickly. PDK issues are not to be trifled with, even the dealers have very limited options as to what they can do before moving to a reman transmission.
  19. Been around for a bit, Jake Raby has commented on it on other forums, does not seem to like the roller bearing approach as it cannot stand up to off axis movement by the shaft.
  20. That is weird as the FRA range limits on adaptation for both banks are Rich: 1.25 and Lean: 0.75; so the car seems "inbounds" when the car is under load. What are the TRA (idle) values, and have you tried clearing the code and then seeing if and when it returns? I'm wondering if you have an intermittent issue here............. Fuel filling problems were common on the earlier 986/996 cars, do a search and you will find several recommendations on how others have addressed there issues.
  21. Ahsai is correct about reading your FRA (load) and TRA (idle) adaptation values for the bank. Far too often, we see people reading what they perceive as O2 sensor codes that are actually not the sensors, they are the sensor's response to another problem; yours is exactly that. P1126 indicates your bank is reading lean, not because of the sensors on that bank, but because of what they are seeing: not enough fuel. If the sensor had a voltage, resistance or communications issue, you would get specific codes for that. This P1126 code typically comes from either low fuel delivery (pump pressure or delivery rate, or a plugged injector), or an air leak in the system. Check your fuel system pressure and delivery rates, if they are OK, pull the plugs on that bank and look at their color; a lean cylinder from a bad injector will be white while the others are brownish and sooty. If the plugs are OK or even in color, you have a vacuum leak somewhere in the system, and this is where it typically gets very messy as the leaks are often very small, or internal to the system (jammed or bypassed valve on the EVAP control system). These leaks just don't jump out at you, you need to systematically search for them, particularly looking at any vacuum connections that feed into the intake for that bank.
  22. Because the ethanol is blended in at the last min. with other additives as it is being loaded into the truck for shipment, the alcohol level can bounce around quite a bit (hey, they ain't stupid, they don't want gas with ethanol sitting around in their tanks, just in yours :eek: ). But in any case, when isn't it winter in Minnesota :thumbup:
  23. +1, also a very valid point. Gas blenders add more low temp volatiles in the winter to aid very cold weather starting, which will degrade MPG as well.
  24. There is ethanol in all gas, all the time, not just winter months. But, I agree with you, ethanol yeilds lower MPG's, for sure. I have an enthanol test kit for fuels. When I was testing my gas, I saw ranges from 4% ethanol to 9% all year long. No real rhyme or reason. Ethanol is roughly 33% lower in heat content (BTU) than gas, so you will get both less power and lower mileage as the alcohol content rises in mixed fuels.
  25. Most of the 911 variants carry the larger oil cooler from the factory, it is the Boxsters that got short changed on this one.
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