JFP in PA

Sounds like you are in good shape.

Your tester is fine and should work with any glycol based system. Porsche antifreeze is glycol based, but employ's advanced OAT type technology to give it long life, which it has in abundance. Trick with OAT style antifreeze is that not all of them are compatible with each other, and mixing sometimes leads to gel particle formation which is a major pain to clean out of the system. As long as you stay with Porsche brand antifreeze and distilled water, you will have no problems as they have been very good in making any new and improved versions totally compatible with their earlier products.

"Shorting" the antifreeze is a common dealer prep trick to save some money. Problem you face is how to get a little over a gallon of new antifreeze introduced and then fully mixed into the balance. As the coolant tank holds nowhere near that amount by itself, you are going to need to drain some out of the system just to get it all in. Once you get to that juncture, you might as well dump the entire charge, correctly premix fresh with distilled water, and recharge the system, preferably under vacuum. While that may sound excessive, if they shorted the mix, they probably also did not use DI or distilled water either, so even if you did manage to get the glycol level up to where it needs to be, the charge would still end up being short lived if they did not use distilled water due to the salts now in the system. Dump it and do it correctly, and you should not have any problems for many, many years.

Not completely, common problem area is the floor pan, sills, and the battery tray areas. Once they start, you need some new sheet metal: That is certainly a little more than surface rust. Is that a North East Car? With the sill gone like that the car is pretty much toast. I guess it was a good thing I totaled mine :-) Have you seen a 90s era 911 rust like that?? Yes, that is a car from these parts. Once the salts they dump all over the roads get a foothold, it does not take long. The later cars do much better, probably because of the use of better steels and surface treatments to protect the metal.

Glad you got it sorted. I know Porsche has a Motorsports clutch assembly which fits your car, and uses an un sprung disc, but was under the impression that they normally do not deliver street cars with this assembly in them. The "marcel" springs he is referring to are in between the two clutch friction material faces: Most stock and HD clutches have what is called a Marcel spring. This is a wavy flat spring that is bonded to the friction material, and then riveted to the disc itself. You can see it when looking at a clutch disc on its edge. The marcel acts like a cushion, smoothing out the final engagement of the friction material by allowing the clamping forces to build up a little slower. When the clutch is fully engaged, the marcel smashes flat and has no effect. The marcel is removed from racing-type and metallic clutches for two reasons. The marcel prevents the friction material from being 100% bonded to the disc, reducing burst strength and it also increases engagement travel, possibly slowing shifts which is a little harder on the syncro's.

I'm not so sure about that, this is the OEM Porsche clutch kit for your car: There are several aftermarket discs that are available unsprung: And even some multiple disc setups as well: But your factory clutch disc should be sprung............ Your car is a GT2 correct, not an RS car?

I think your second choice is a good one, it offers higher clamping force but should retain better drivability on the street. Some tend to forget about why most street discs are sprung; they "soften" the take up on the drive line as you first pull away, and at every gear change. On a race car, no one cares about clutch chatter and increased driveline noise, you only car about how fast and how durable the system is. But on the street, it ain't always about how fast; sometimes you want to turn on the air, crank up some tunes, and drive somewhere comfortably without having the fillings shaken out of your teeth when you pull away from every stop light. The major difference in this area when looking at a Metzger vs. a non Metzger comes into play both in components and engine assembly technique. The Metzger engines use a true forged steel crank, which is much stronger than the non Metzger's have, so they can stand up better to the harmonics. If you saw a Metzger crank out of the engine case and tapped it with a metal object, it would ring like a bell. The nodular iron crank would make a clunking sound when you did the same thing. Two different worlds. Secondly, the Metzger engines are also fully internally balanced, which reduces dramatically the harmonic stresses on the rotating assembly. You are also correct in that the RS (and the RSR) units have a single mass flywheel, which was also balanced with the engine assembly from the factory, as they were designed to be more a race car that happens to be on the street, and can get away with less dampening for the reasons I mentioned. It is also why some notice that a Metzger car seems smoother than a non Metzger car; it actually is, but for some very expensive reasons.

No, you cannot even see the bearing from the sump. To remove it, the trans, clutch, and flywheel have to come off, the engine locked at TDC, cams locked, and the IMS rear flange removed, exactly as though you were going to swap it out.

Exactly the same as the earlier bearings, only larger in outside diameter. You can, however, remove the rear bearing seal so that it does splash lubricate. We have several customers running this way.

I'd be willing to bet the gauge you measured 19 inches of vacuum on the intake with is measuring in inches of mercury, not water, so I would not be surprised not to see a vacuum signal at the oil cap. Five inches of water would barely move the inches of mercury gauge, and would read about 0.368 inches of mercury.

We test AOS units using a fixture we made from an oil filler cap drilled out to accept a barbed hose fitting and a low range inches of water vacuum gauge. A good AOS should show a steady vacuum signal of around 5 inches of water at idle; if it goes over 8-10 (we have seen them come in the shop at over 20), we pull the AOS and replace it.

Don't bet the ranch on that data, 2000 and 2001 engine's can go either way; the only way to know for sure on them is to pull the flywheel and look. People have been posting erroneous data on that period for a long time, and more often than not, it is wrong.

Leaving coolant sit in the oil sump will destroy any possible future for this engine, if it even has one, so don't go in that direction. As these engines never blow head gaskets, you probably have either cracked a cylinder liner or a cylinder head. You need to have the problem diagnosed by pulling the spark plugs and dropping a bore scope into each cylinder to see where the engine has failed, or by simply pulling the engine and having it checked out on a stand. Realistically, the engine is going to have to come out anyway, so I would just pull it and find out if it can be salvaged.

Ferrous debris is never good in these engines, particularly as flakes. As you have a late 2005 "AT" replacement engine, it will carry the non serviceable IMS bearing, so a retrofit is out of the question. First thing to do is shorten the oil change intervals to 3K miles, and switch to a known high ZDDP content oil like Joe Gibbs Racing 5W-40. If the car was in my shop, I would recommend switching to a full flow spin on filter setup (LN Engineering) which would guarantee all the oil is filtered all the time. The OEM cartridge filter canister has a by-pass valve in its base that tend to stick open when there is debris inside the engine, allowing unfiltered oil to circulate freely. We have seen these valves stuck in the open position even on engines with no problems. I would also add a filter mag magnetic panel to the outside of the spin on filter to aid in trapping ferrous debris. The use of a spin on filter will necessitate obtaining a filter cutting tool to open up the spin on's for inspection, but the benefit of full flow filtration far out ways this consideration.

Continuing to run and engine with a prior failed IMS is a total crap shoot, some make it, but many do not. The M96/97 engine design has a lot of small "pockets" in the oil system where debris can lurk for a long time before breaking loose and circulating through the system; and it only takes one particle in the wrong place to start a cascading disaster scenario. Your best bet is lots of oil & filter changes (you can use non synthetic oil for this, and a spin on filter, magnetic drain plug, and magnetic pad wrapped around the filter would be advisable as well). Good luck........ JFP, I have a magnetic drain plug, but what are my options for a spin-on filter? Would that require the LN spin-on adapter? Also, I've never heard of the magnetic wrap. Where would I source that? Thanks, Devin PS: My condolences to your brother; I was a divorce attorney many moons ago... :) Yes, you would want the LN adaptor and one of the appropriately sized filter mag panels.

Fine by me, but it was also the title of the book my brother wrote about his four marriages'.....................

Because of the severe fire hazard, you need to do this test carefully. It also helps to have someone help you while doing this test. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel rail, and place the end into a measuring container. Switch the fuel pump on for 30 seconds, then turn it off. Minimum acceptable delivery volume is 850 mL or 0.9 US quart in 30 seconds. Be sure to properly reconnect the fuel line and test it for leaks after running this test.

Both banks are running so lean the DME cannot richen the mixture further. Normally, most of these are caused by air leaks somewhere in the intake system, but I would check the fuel system for correct pressures and delivery rates. I would also consider having the car's intake area "smoke tested" for small leaks

From personal experience, I have about 15k on a M96 powered Boxster and just under 5k on a M96 powered C2 running LN Engineering's magnetic drain plug without any apparent negative side effects. I'm not sure what problems the plug could cause, as the torque specs are reduced and a copper crush washer is still used. If any magnetic metal shavings were circulating around in my engine, I would prefer they stuck to the magnetic oil drain plug making their existence very easily noticeable at the next oil change rather than have them circulate throughout the motor. I think the major concern with the stainless plug is the combination of its hardness and that it and the sump cover are dissimilar metals, which leads to other problems (both the OEM drain plug and LN's magnetic units are aluminum, like the sump cover).

Did you conduct a fuel delivery rate test?

What fuel pressure and delivery rates are you seeing? The MAF should be ~12-24kg/hr @idle and ~50-80kg/hr @3000 rpm.

Several companies, including Actron who made the unit pictured above, have adaptors that will fit the car. Cost is going to be in the $45-60 area at retail.

Continuing to run and engine with a prior failed IMS is a total crap shoot, some make it, but many do not. The M96/97 engine design has a lot of small "pockets" in the oil system where debris can lurk for a long time before breaking loose and circulating through the system; and it only takes one particle in the wrong place to start a cascading disaster scenario. Your best bet is lots of oil & filter changes (you can use non synthetic oil for this, and a spin on filter, magnetic drain plug, and magnetic pad wrapped around the filter would be advisable as well). Good luck........

Be aware that moving from a dual mass to a single mass flywheel is not recommended on non-Metzger engine cars without internally rebalancing the engine to dampen harmonics. The dual mass flywheel is the only harmonic dampener in the engine and its removal has caused some pretty significant problems, including crank failures. Jake Raby has written extensively about these problems on his website: http://www.flat6innovations.com/index.php/broken-crank Porsche also once circulated an internal memo to dealers telling them that they would not honor engine failure warranties on cars that had been switched to single mass flywheels for the same reasons. Single mass flywheels and unsprung clutch discs also can be a noisy pain to drive on the street.

Your problem is exactly why I laugh when people spend a lot of money for aftermarket "cold air" intakes for these cars. The Boxster air intake setup pulls in cold air from the driver's side port, along with anything else that happens to be near by (leaves, dirt, debris, small children, etc.). Depending upon the type of roads you drive on, annual or even semi annual filter changes are an excellent maintenance item. The filters are cheap, readily available, and easy to change; we use the Wix/NAPA Gold 42475 which retails at auto parts stores for about $16.