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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. No, you cannot even see the bearing from the sump. To remove it, the trans, clutch, and flywheel have to come off, the engine locked at TDC, cams locked, and the IMS rear flange removed, exactly as though you were going to swap it out.
  2. Exactly the same as the earlier bearings, only larger in outside diameter. You can, however, remove the rear bearing seal so that it does splash lubricate. We have several customers running this way.
  3. I'd be willing to bet the gauge you measured 19 inches of vacuum on the intake with is measuring in inches of mercury, not water, so I would not be surprised not to see a vacuum signal at the oil cap. Five inches of water would barely move the inches of mercury gauge, and would read about 0.368 inches of mercury.
  4. We test AOS units using a fixture we made from an oil filler cap drilled out to accept a barbed hose fitting and a low range inches of water vacuum gauge. A good AOS should show a steady vacuum signal of around 5 inches of water at idle; if it goes over 8-10 (we have seen them come in the shop at over 20), we pull the AOS and replace it.
  5. Don't bet the ranch on that data, 2000 and 2001 engine's can go either way; the only way to know for sure on them is to pull the flywheel and look. People have been posting erroneous data on that period for a long time, and more often than not, it is wrong.
  6. Leaving coolant sit in the oil sump will destroy any possible future for this engine, if it even has one, so don't go in that direction. As these engines never blow head gaskets, you probably have either cracked a cylinder liner or a cylinder head. You need to have the problem diagnosed by pulling the spark plugs and dropping a bore scope into each cylinder to see where the engine has failed, or by simply pulling the engine and having it checked out on a stand. Realistically, the engine is going to have to come out anyway, so I would just pull it and find out if it can be salvaged.
  7. Ferrous debris is never good in these engines, particularly as flakes. As you have a late 2005 "AT" replacement engine, it will carry the non serviceable IMS bearing, so a retrofit is out of the question. First thing to do is shorten the oil change intervals to 3K miles, and switch to a known high ZDDP content oil like Joe Gibbs Racing 5W-40. If the car was in my shop, I would recommend switching to a full flow spin on filter setup (LN Engineering) which would guarantee all the oil is filtered all the time. The OEM cartridge filter canister has a by-pass valve in its base that tend to stick open when there is debris inside the engine, allowing unfiltered oil to circulate freely. We have seen these valves stuck in the open position even on engines with no problems. I would also add a filter mag magnetic panel to the outside of the spin on filter to aid in trapping ferrous debris. The use of a spin on filter will necessitate obtaining a filter cutting tool to open up the spin on's for inspection, but the benefit of full flow filtration far out ways this consideration.
  8. Continuing to run and engine with a prior failed IMS is a total crap shoot, some make it, but many do not. The M96/97 engine design has a lot of small "pockets" in the oil system where debris can lurk for a long time before breaking loose and circulating through the system; and it only takes one particle in the wrong place to start a cascading disaster scenario. Your best bet is lots of oil & filter changes (you can use non synthetic oil for this, and a spin on filter, magnetic drain plug, and magnetic pad wrapped around the filter would be advisable as well). Good luck........ JFP, I have a magnetic drain plug, but what are my options for a spin-on filter? Would that require the LN spin-on adapter? Also, I've never heard of the magnetic wrap. Where would I source that? Thanks, Devin PS: My condolences to your brother; I was a divorce attorney many moons ago... :) Yes, you would want the LN adaptor and one of the appropriately sized filter mag panels.
  9. Fine by me, but it was also the title of the book my brother wrote about his four marriages'.....................
  10. Because of the severe fire hazard, you need to do this test carefully. It also helps to have someone help you while doing this test. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel rail, and place the end into a measuring container. Switch the fuel pump on for 30 seconds, then turn it off. Minimum acceptable delivery volume is 850 mL or 0.9 US quart in 30 seconds. Be sure to properly reconnect the fuel line and test it for leaks after running this test.
  11. Both banks are running so lean the DME cannot richen the mixture further. Normally, most of these are caused by air leaks somewhere in the intake system, but I would check the fuel system for correct pressures and delivery rates. I would also consider having the car's intake area "smoke tested" for small leaks
  12. From personal experience, I have about 15k on a M96 powered Boxster and just under 5k on a M96 powered C2 running LN Engineering's magnetic drain plug without any apparent negative side effects. I'm not sure what problems the plug could cause, as the torque specs are reduced and a copper crush washer is still used. If any magnetic metal shavings were circulating around in my engine, I would prefer they stuck to the magnetic oil drain plug making their existence very easily noticeable at the next oil change rather than have them circulate throughout the motor. I think the major concern with the stainless plug is the combination of its hardness and that it and the sump cover are dissimilar metals, which leads to other problems (both the OEM drain plug and LN's magnetic units are aluminum, like the sump cover).
  13. Did you conduct a fuel delivery rate test?
  14. What fuel pressure and delivery rates are you seeing? The MAF should be ~12-24kg/hr @idle and ~50-80kg/hr @3000 rpm.
  15. Several companies, including Actron who made the unit pictured above, have adaptors that will fit the car. Cost is going to be in the $45-60 area at retail.
  16. Continuing to run and engine with a prior failed IMS is a total crap shoot, some make it, but many do not. The M96/97 engine design has a lot of small "pockets" in the oil system where debris can lurk for a long time before breaking loose and circulating through the system; and it only takes one particle in the wrong place to start a cascading disaster scenario. Your best bet is lots of oil & filter changes (you can use non synthetic oil for this, and a spin on filter, magnetic drain plug, and magnetic pad wrapped around the filter would be advisable as well). Good luck........
  17. Be aware that moving from a dual mass to a single mass flywheel is not recommended on non-Metzger engine cars without internally rebalancing the engine to dampen harmonics. The dual mass flywheel is the only harmonic dampener in the engine and its removal has caused some pretty significant problems, including crank failures. Jake Raby has written extensively about these problems on his website: http://www.flat6innovations.com/index.php/broken-crank Porsche also once circulated an internal memo to dealers telling them that they would not honor engine failure warranties on cars that had been switched to single mass flywheels for the same reasons. Single mass flywheels and unsprung clutch discs also can be a noisy pain to drive on the street.
  18. Your problem is exactly why I laugh when people spend a lot of money for aftermarket "cold air" intakes for these cars. The Boxster air intake setup pulls in cold air from the driver's side port, along with anything else that happens to be near by (leaves, dirt, debris, small children, etc.). Depending upon the type of roads you drive on, annual or even semi annual filter changes are an excellent maintenance item. The filters are cheap, readily available, and easy to change; we use the Wix/NAPA Gold 42475 which retails at auto parts stores for about $16.
  19. LN Nickies liners, the LN triple ceramic bearing IMS upgrade (or the IMS solution if it is a single row engine), LN chrome moly oil pump drive, LN spin oil filter adaptor, ARP bolts (cylinder head, rod, and crank carrier), oil pump, water pump, billet tensioner paddles, new tensioners, AOS. I'd also look at replacing the cam followers with later design units that have less tendency to plug up. go through the heads carefully while they are off, replace anything that shows signs of wear (springs, retainers, etc.), fresh valve job.
  20. The "spray welding" process used to do that type of repair is dependent upon how the crank was originally made; forged steel can be welded up, nodular iron is much more difficult to do. You would need to talk to a top quality crank shop on ifs type of repair is even possible.
  21. Porsche does not supply crank or rod bearing shells in other than stock sizes. I am also not aware of anyone in the after market that does either. Suggest looking for a new replacement crank and rod(s); and it would also be a good time for better rod bolts like ARP.
  22. Never good to hear, but withhold judgment until the car is pulled apart and checked; it could still be something else.
  23. It is entirely possible that the sunroof electric motor is on the way out. Try working the roof through a full cycle using the manual Allan wrench crank, if it moves smoothly, the drive motor is bad.
  24. First of all, Osram Night Breaker Unlimited are Halogen bulbs, not xenon's. The only time I have come across this type of damage was when someone used too high wattage aftermarket halogen "super bulbs" in and vain attempt to get more light out of the headlights. In any case, I'm afraid you are in the market for a new headlight assembly.
  25. Shop around, you can often find a used "Enthusiast" version with only one of the three VIN slots used at a healthy discount. And they don't cost that much brand new either.......................
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