JFP in PA

Enjoy Jake's class, the man literally "wrote the book" in the M96/97 engine.

Very simple: When the AOS fails, it tends to pull a lot of oil into the intake system. There are a myriad of little nooks and crannies where the oil can sit in the intake, so it comes out very slowly over time causing prolonged smoke unless you pull the entire intake off and manually clean it out.

Correct. Use some thread locker on the flange bolts, they are under a lot of stress and prone to loosen.

Actually, what is happening is a little different. First, the screen shot capture I posted was taken when software version 6.0.3.1 was current, 6.3.2.5 is what is current now, so that was just a matter of an intervening software update. The correct DME for your car is the 5.2.2 (1998-1999 model years) not the 7.2 (2000-2001 model years). There are significant differences between the capabilities of these two versions of the DME, and the earlier version is not as capable by comparison. Selecting the wrong DME in the Durametric system can often lead you astray, so go with what is actually in the car. Your early DME does not have all the display capabilities of the later units, so some "actual values" are not available to look at. If your cam deviation values are within +/-6 degrees at idle, your cams are in correct timing. If you activated the VarioCam at idle, you should see the cam deviation values jump to show the system trying to move the cam around 25 degrees, and the car will start to idle roughly; that would show that the VarioCam unit is functional. If your cam deviation values are in range, the VarioCam is working, and the Durametric is not seeing the P1531 code return, you should be good to go.

First of all, when was the last time the clutch hydraulic fluid was flushed? We see a fair number of "dead clutches" that suddenly come back to life with some attention to the hydraulic system. RMS, if you are in there, change it. Porsche has significantly updated these seals, and the latest PTFE versions have all but eliminated leakage issues. You can definitely install the RMS using a 4" OD PVC pipe union, if you exercise care. Using the old flywheel bolts, which will rest on the ridge inside the union, hand tighten the bolts in a cross pattern slowly until you obtain the correct installed distance from the flywheel mating surface, which is 13MM, not 14. During the installation of the seal, keep all the surfaces scrupulously clean and free of any lubricant or sealants. Axles: As you did not say two or four wheel drive, the front axle to flange is 29 ft. lb.; rears are 60 ft. lb. at the transmission, 340 ft. lb. at the hub. Pressure plate bolts are 17 ft. lb., flywheel bolts are 19 ft. lb. +90 degrees. Both the flywheel and pressure plate bolts are single use only, so do not reuse them.

Not completely; the 2006 engine definitely does not have the serviceable IMS bearing, but the 2005 may or may not (visual inspection is required) as they came both ways.

They are both VarioCam Plus and should both be using the 7.8.1 DME.

It is often said that with enough time, money, welding rod, and duct tape; anything is possible. But the question is, would the view be worth the climb...... The later engine has significant system changes, your 2006 engine uses a 7.8.1 DME, the 2010 engine would use a SD13 DME. The 2010 engine is setup for DFI, which your car lacks; amongst other changes you would need to make would be to retrofit the 1700 PSIG fuel system from the 2010 car into your 2006 chassis, which is a major undertaking. And that is only scratching the surface of the changes required. I think you need to expand your search for a replacement engine that matches your car, or consider having a top flight engine builder like Flat Six Innovations re-do yours; even with a lot of updates, it would probably be cheaper and would produce a lot of power while bolting right in.

Actually they do make contact just fine. Because to do the triple row, you need to disassemble your engine, and send your IMS shaft to LN Engineering and have it modified to accept this multiple ceramic bearing system, there are relatively few of them on the street. But it is immensely strong (strongest of any design using a ball bearing) as all three rows are in full contact, and has been used in a handful of highly modified engines with total success (no failures, even with only a limited number were ever done this way). Squirting oil onto the bearing may or may not help, depending upon where the oil is coming from. The "competition" you mention use an oil feed from one of the hottest and dirtiest parts of the engine to spray oil onto the ball bearing, which risks introducing debris and hot oil into an already fragile system. Both LN and Jake Raby have been quite vocal about why this is a bad idea and could actually lead to a failure that would not have occurred otherwise. If memory serves, Jake actually experimented with oil fed single row ball bearings, but went away from the design due to the additional problems it introduced, and eventually went to his patented ball bearing less Solution design for single row engines, which mimic's the style of oil fed solid surface bearing already in use in other similar Porsche engine applications, which if you think about it also totally puts to rest the concept that the shaft rocking is the problem. Until (and if) they develop a "Solution" style solid bearing for dual row applications, with tens of thousands of successful installations, their splash oil fed dual row bearing system remains the proven way for dual row owners to go.

Unfortunately, as RennTech vigorously respects all intellectual property rights, this thread has now been closed.

If you have an M96 engine that actually blew a head gasket, it would be the first one I have ever heard of doing that; the M96 simply does not blow head gaskets. When these engine's suffer intermix issues, the three most common candidates are blown oil coolers, cracked cylinder heads, and cracked or slipped cylinder liners. Quite often, the cracks are very difficult to see without special procedures: Normally, when we get in an intermix car, we pull the oil cooler and pressure test it. If it passes, we pull the heads and start searching for what has cracked. Putting the engine back together without proper checking for cracking was the wrong move, the coolant that reenters the oil really tears up the bearing shells quickly, usually ending up with spun bearings and/or a seized engine, as you have discovered. And not to pick on your shop, but if you have suffered and intermix, the sump should have been pulled and all "residual" mix flushed out. I think you are still facing an engine with an internal crack somewhere. Hey JFP, thanks for the quick reply. The shop I took it to are Engine builders. I assumed they would know what they were doing that's all. The mixing before I took it to them was extreme but it's pretty minimal now. The cylinders did have scratching but I'm 100% certain they're not cracked and as for the heads, it's possible as I hadn't even gotten into any detail about it. The oil cooler was changed, guanine Porsche cooler. I just believed them when they said it was a blown head gasket I guess :(. Would that cause my oil pressure problem? I would pull the oil pump assembly and look at it; you could have some residual debris in the pressure check valve assembly, or if you see any unusual wear or marks on the pump gears, debris related wear may have reduced their ability to properly pump the oil. Exactly what testing have you done that leaves you with such confidence that you have no cracks in an engine that is well known for cracking? In an engine with no cracks, there should be no intermixing at all............

If you have an M96 engine that actually blew a head gasket, it would be the first one I have ever heard of doing that; the M96 simply does not blow head gaskets. When these engine's suffer intermix issues, the three most common candidates are blown oil coolers, cracked cylinder heads, and cracked or slipped cylinder liners. Quite often, the cracks are very difficult to see without special procedures: Normally, when we get in an intermix car, we pull the oil cooler and pressure test it. If it passes, we pull the heads and start searching for what has cracked. Putting the engine back together without proper checking for cracking was the wrong move, the coolant that reenters the oil really tears up the bearing shells quickly, usually ending up with spun bearings and/or a seized engine, as you have discovered. And not to pick on your shop, but if you have suffered and intermix, the sump should have been pulled and all "residual" mix flushed out. I think you are still facing an engine with an internal crack somewhere.

We prefer the Wix/NAPA Gold 51042 or 51042XP. Both are excellent filters at reasonable prices. The 51042 had a specialty paper filter media, the XP adds a synthetic media for even better filtration.

On the V8 engines, there is a test port cap at the front end of the passenger side fuel rail: http://www.inkilino.es/Porsche_Cayenne_02-06/FUEL%20ACTUATION.pdf Not sure if the V6 is the same.

The paddles shed their wear pads for a long time before anything starts to go bad. Keep and eye on your cam deviation values, as long as they stay inbounds, you are good to go.

These can come from a couple of sources, the chain tensioning paddles have plastic wear pads on them, the engine also uses sealants rather than gaskets on a lot of surfaces, and sometimes there is a little bit of squeeze out the eventually breaks off and ends up in the filter. Not uncommon.

You are mixing posters and time frames, today's poster said: "mine's a 02 C4S with tiptronic tran...guess it's about time to change oil."

Depends upon the model and year, some do but others do not. And in this case, it's a Tiptronic.

You did not mention your year and model, but Porsche suggest 90,000 miles (`145,000Km) for manual gear box oil changes; that said, more realistically I would be doing it sooner at around 40,000 miles. As you are at 80,000 Km, or about 49,000 miles, you are in the window for a change. Strongly suggest refilling the gearbox with the OEM lube, as it is a rather unique full synthetic product which works very well.

Not uncommon, most dealers sell them at list price. Sunset Porsche, board sponsor, in Beaverton OR. These parts vary somewhat with model year and come in bags anywhere from ten to fifty units per. You can also find bulk quantities for some of these from aftermarket firms like Dorman Products.

We work on a lot of different makes and models besides Porsche, and just about every one has some items that are forever missing, break every time you touch them, or are only available on the dark side of the moon. They are "consumables" that often only cost a few cents each, are always going to get used, and nowhere to be found at 4 PM on Saturday; so you stockpile a small quantity of them. Usually, they are cheaper when purchased this way, and then they are always an arm's reach away when you need them. I really hate sending a customer out with his car, only to have to bring him back in three days later to install a fifty cent part; it inconveniences him and we actually lose money bringing the car in s second time.

Thanks for the reminder. I read some posts on the halving the angle. As far as I am aware, there are no notches to reference under the other plug, hence the shorty cam lock tool. The other end of the intake cam (flywheel side) would just point outboard with a single notch vs. the half moons to denote TDC on Bank1. Makes sense. I forgot that the 3 chains engine cams are like that. My point of the cam sensor (blue arrows) picking up the position of the INTAKE cam instead of the exhaust should still makes sense. That is, the sensor will pick up any exhaust cam deviation + any slop at the varaiocam chain and report the total. So it's possible even if your EXHAUST cam notches are perfectly aligned, there could still be slop introduced by variocam (due to worn saddles) that gives you a net deviation. Drawing1.jpg In these systems, there are several ways for the deviation to be out of spec, which is why you have to take it apart and look for something obvious, like worn pads, a loose chain, etc. Always a fun project............

Points well taken. I am of the opinion that if something seems wrong, (in this case the Durametric readings) it probably is. Will do the cam lock test over the weekend. Be aware that the cam can be in the correct position at rest, but out of spec running if the hydraulic tensioner system or shoe wear pads are bad.

From the very introduction of the ceramic bearing retrofits, LN Engineering has specifically said not to retrofit engines that already had metal shards in them from a failing IMS bearing (http://imsretrofit.com/bearing-already-failing/). And while a few have had success "flushing" the metal out with repeated oil and filter changes, they are in the minority; most engines retrofitted with metal already circulating in them typically fail after the retrofits. As you have a dual row engine, your best bet would be to go with the LN triple row option during the rebuild; this is the most robust system LN developed, and can only be installed during an engine rebuild. You next best option would be a fresh LN dual row; there are literally tens of thousands of these on the road with no signs of failures. As for the Pelican system, it is an OEM style single row steel single row bearing and a spacer, you would be replacing the most durable IMS design (dual row) with the most problem plagued design (single row). Somehow, that just does not make any sense, even if you are on a tight budget. JFP, IS the LN bearing sealed or open to engine oil? If it is sealed would you take the seals out?? All of the LN bearings are open to oil and the engine side, sealed on the shaft side, so they can be splash lubricated by the engine.

Just be aware that retrofitting HID's into non projector headlights, regardless of who manufactures them, is not legal in all states due to glare issues and the component's not meeting DOT specs. We are required to fail such installation's at inspection time, and they are a favorite ticket bait here as well. We also count such installations as 'deduct" items when doing a PPI.