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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Not on your car. That is correct, but only for later models than yours (2005 987/997 and later). The later car's bearings can only go in one way so that the wheel speed sensors work correctly. On the newer cars that have integrated ABS sensor wheels into the bearing, you need to make sure that the sensor side goes next to the sensor itself Most bearings come marked in some fashion, but you can also obtain a $15 tool that will tell you which side is which: It's ATE part number 760130, and is sold by Amazon.com and others for this exact purpose.
  2. JFP in PA
    For years, one of the most common questions we get asked is knowing when to change the brake and clutch hydraulic fluids, other than using the "every two years" rule of thumb. This is especially important to those that track their cars regularly and tend to beat up on the fluid long before the normal flushing cycle and find they are getting "spongy" brake pedals on track days. While we use a hand held refractometer at the shop to spot test the condition of the fluids, these testers are fairly expensive (over $100), which puts them outside the budget for all but the most ardent car owners. Recently, OTC tools released an inexpensive fluid tester (OTC 4598 Brake Fluid Tester) that seems to be both reasonably accurate when compared to the refractometer, and reasonably priced (around $24 on Amazon): This battery operated device is simple to use, just press the on button at the end, and dip the two metal prongs into the fluid in the system reservoir. It uses a five step LED display reading between 0% and 4% moisture content to quickly give you a reading of the current condition of the fluid.
  3. JFP in PA
    I've not seen any of them leak, but we have changed a few while doing other maintenance items that required pull the cam covers. They do take a "crushed" shape when compressed and could leak if the cover was loosened or removed and they were not replaced for some reason.
  4. JFP in PA
    Mmm... I think 2005 will have the metal tubes (different design). How many spark plug tubes have oil? How much oil? This sounds very odd for these later model engines. Loren, the part I was thinking of is 996-104-203-00, which sits under the cam cover and seals to the plug tube on the 2005 997.1 engines.
  5. JFP in PA
    Cam covers need to come off, which requires special tooling.
  6. JFP in PA
    OK, you should be able to replace tubes and seals.
  7. JFP in PA
    Depends upon the year of the car; which one are we talking about here?
  8. JFP in PA
    NPR, or Nippon Piston Rings, are suppliers to several of the Asian brands like Honda and Toyota. While I am sure they are a good manufacturer, I would not be skimping on such a critical item as Porsche uses it own alloy in the cylinder liners and I have no idea how compatible the rings would be or how well the NPR rings will hold up.
  9. JFP in PA
    If the alternator is only putting out 12.5V, it is definitely bad as you should be around 13.5 to 14.5V. I would also have them check the battery and starter cables which are notoriously problematic on these cars. Porsche has released updated cables to address the problem.
  10. JFP in PA
    You can start by posting in the correct forum: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/14539-lost-radio-code-post-your-request-here/
  11. JFP in PA
    The Durametric cannot reprogram the DME, but replacing a DME usually requires some setup with a PIWIS unit so that the immobilizer, etc. are all in sync with the new unit. You cannot just pop in a new DME and go.
  12. JFP in PA
    While your thought is correct for a single compound product like DOT 4 brake fluid, it does not hold true with engine oils due to oil having a complex system of additives, some of which are just to hold the mixture togeather. This is why all oil manufacturers date mark their containers and typically suggest no more than 2-4 years shelf life (varies by brand) for unopened containers of full synthetics, less for opened ones.
  13. JFP in PA
    ATE Gold and ATE Type 200 are the same product. Once opened, brake fluids in a partially filled original container have a shelf life of around 18 months to 2 years (an opened container will start to absorb moisture from the air in the container). To be safe, you can buy brake fluid test strips you can dip into stored fluid to check its moisture content before using.
  14. JFP in PA
    I'm sure they will take car of you, they are a reputable firm. The pic above is more what I would expect as well.
  15. JFP in PA
    I think I'd get SIR on the phone and ask them about this. Only thought that comes to mind is that they may be offsetting it slightly so you can use some mechanical leverage when installing it, more as a holding tool than a timing tool. That would also explain why one end of the bar sticks out so far past the cam centerlines. I found one picture of it in use, and while somewhat at an angle, it still looks like the round exhaust part is square to the tool edge:
  16. JFP in PA
    They should line up a bit better. Have you tried to see if they will rotate in the bar? I haven't used that particular tool as I have the Porsche 9612 "blocking device" and both fixtures move on it:
  17. JFP in PA
    Assuming there was nothing wrong with the engine or its leak down values before your experiment in towel inhalation, it would be a fair assumption that the values on cylinders 3 and 4 are as the result of the clean out campaign (either residual towel, loosened carbon, or a mechanical scratch on the valve seat somewhere). As cold leak downs are notoriously inaccurate, and because you are going to be facing a major cash outlay to pull the heads off and send them out for a retread, I would be of the mind to put the car back together and light it up, assuming there is nothing visible left in any cylinder or head runners. Once warmed up, I would specifically look at the leak down of two currently weakest cylinders; if they "heal", you are back in business. If they don't, you are no worse off, or any poorer, than you are currently.
  18. JFP in PA
    My thought process keeps taking me back to this being a wiring problem ahead of the sensor rather than the sensors themselves. Below is the Porsche diagnostics process for both P0130 and 0150 (it is from the Boxster OBD II manual, but should be exactly the same on this car). If the problems persist, I suggest starting over from the beginning as we are obviously missing something:
  19. JFP in PA
    Did you check out the "M48.00/50 throttle body venturi tube tank ventilation vent line crankcase" and the "M02.2Y intake manifold 04- throttle body" parts diagrams on the Auto Atlanta website for your model year?
  20. JFP in PA
    Your photos appear to a cooling system hose, is that correct? As I cannot tell from the photos, where on the firewall were they taken? Literally every part for the vehicle is in those drawings, we just have to narrow down what you are looking for.
  21. JFP in PA
    If its technical specs match OEM, no it would not cause a problem.
  22. JFP in PA
    I've not seen them for rent, but they do pop up for sale on various Porsche forums and flea bay from time to time.
  23. JFP in PA
    If you feel you have carbon bits holding an exhaust valve open and causing the leak down issues, I would try just starting it up. Anything sitting in the exhaust valve or runner area is going to get blown into the exhaust system as soon as the engine fires. Spraying chemicals into the exhaust port is going to force the carbon bits into the cylinders where they could get down along side the pistons and potentially score the walls; I would try not to go there.
  24. JFP in PA
    The stainless filter is expensive, takes time to clean properly, and has multiple parts sealed with O-rings, so they can leak if not reassembled properly. You can get a throw away spin on with a full synthetic media and finer pore sizes for around $8 that will never leak and does not have to be disassembled and cleaned every time. I agree it is pricey, but personally I think the benefits of thorough inspection + the additional magnet are worth it. Cleaning can be done in the 5-10 mins it takes to let the oil fully drain. And if your cutting open a spin on filter, that will take time as well. The K&P only uses 1 o-ring which is located in the same spot as a normal spin on filter, where it meets the adapter. Also acts as a mini heat sink (though probably not a dramatic effect) You can also hang a FilterMag on the outside of the throw away spin on as well; many of my customers do exactly that.
  25. JFP in PA
    Well, here it was politically expedient to go to this method of "single stream" recycling, most local governments discovered that if you required the user to separate the material types, no one did it and everything just went into landfill trash. So by installing the separation hardware, the recycling was actually being used because it was simpler, just throw anything recyclable into the recycle container and the collection point facility does the rest. Actually lowered overall costs because less ended up going into the landfill. A win-win solution.
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