JFP in PA

Flange center bolt's nut is 13mm. (I suspect it has been touched because the other three bolts on the flange are "indented" 6 point torx, not traditional hex bolts like some of the other bolts on my images.) Once again, much appreciated, excellent answer JFP, :notworthy: OK, with a 13MM center bolt nut you still have a removable IMS bearing (the non serviceable unit is the only one using a 22MM nut). The flange bolts are the correct single use microencapsulated units, you should have new ones with the IMS kit.

Both the RMS and IMS appear to show different levels of leakage; the RMS is seeping, the IMS flange is flat out leaking. I would definitely install a new PTFE style seal; at around $20, it is a no brainer. The IMS flange is leaking the worst. Probably none of them unless they show signs of a problem. The reason Porsche came out with replacement bolts had to do with the RMS bore concentricity or roundness. Back when they were replacing entire engines due to leaks that could not be stopped, Porsche came out with slightly longer microencapsulated bolts to replace the four in the bell housing area to try and hold the RMS seal bore in a more stable position during engine operation. These were typically applied to the early M96 engine's that had shorter bolts from the factory. Unfortunately, while they may have stopped the leaks in some cases, Porsche eventually figured out that the real issues were out of round RMS seal bores, and variances in the concentricity of the flywheel flange on the crank. To help the dealers decide which engine's could be saved by retrofitting rather than replacement, Porsche released special tool 9699/1, which became known as the "Go, No Go gauge". When inserted over the crank flange and into the RMS opening of the cases, if this tool touched the RMS bore edge or showed the case bore and/or crank flange was off visually center, no retrofit of bolts or a new seal was going to save the day and the engine had to be replaced. So it is more than just the bolts, but as Porsche also began using the longer bolts in regular production engines, most of the later engine's already carry them, and replacing them with new versions of the same bolt really does not accomplish anything. The IMS flange would get new bolts, however. Your current RMS (part number 997.101.212.00) is the PTFE unit, which was introduced in 2005, so yours must have been changed at least once. The IMS "part number" you have noted is for the rear flange only, not the IMS itself. But I would ask one question concerning the IMS in the engine: What size socket fits on the center bolt nut in the flange?

As you found no ferrous materials, I would not be overly concerned. It is not unusual to see a bit more debris in the first oil filter after an IMS retrofit. The plastic looking bits are normal chain pad wear, again nothing unusual. I would suggest moving from the OEM style filter with its known by-pass issues and switching to a "full flow" (read 100% filtration at all times) spin on set up. While it will make checking the filter a bit more difficult, the superior filtration would be highly beneficial. And even if you do not change filter styles, I would change your filter again in about 1K miles to see if this clears up. JFP - I am Feeling better! Many thanks. I am ordering the LN Spin-on and will replace the filter in 1K and see what it is up. Perfect plan for me actually as the OEM oil filter housing is just stripped enough by prior owner that I could not torque it properly without the filter wrench hopping around/off and was going to get a new housing anyway. When I saw this pile of junk in the filter my first that was that I could now see why you recommend the LN Spin-on- had no idea this much junk could be floating around and the idea of some of it bypassing the filter for a cycle in the engine is not appealing. Curious why it would be worse after IMS retrofit, thanks again. During the process of extracting and reinstalling the IMS bearing, it is not unusual to generate some small metal bits (prying off the heat set cover flange, forcibly extracting the bearing, hammering in the replacement, etc.), does not happen every time, but if a few bits show up in the first oil change it is not something to be overly concerned about. You also have to remember that not every installer is as meticulously clean as perhaps they should be and does not thoroughly check for any debris. One of the biggest, and perhaps least recognized problems with the OEM cartridge style filter set up in the by-pass valve in the bottom of the plastic housing. It is not at all unusual to find them partially or completely open, which means anywhere from some to nearly all the oil is going around the filter media. Not a good thing. Another advantage to the spin on is that you can employ a FilterMag type magnet on the spin on which will trap any ferrous debris in the engine that is too small (less than 15 microns) to be picked up the filter media. People that try one of these magnets are often quite surprised at how much fine ferrous debris shows up in the first filter change. Also be aware that with the spin on, you will need to cut open the metal housing to check the filter media. This can be done a variety of ways, ranging from a big tubing cutter, to a hacksaw, or even with an relatively inexpensive filter housing cutting tool.

Once I have the time, I'll write a separate thread, include good pictures and tips on how to remedy the situation. In the mean time, please PM me if you need tips, hope not :-) Right now I'm working on IMS, RMS, clutch and checking out bunch of other stuff. All in all, I managed to get everything out, without the use of compressed air or e.g. flushing cylinders. And yes, I have a leak down tester and will run it through all cyls and compare results to each other. Thanks again everyone! PS. Some admin could rename this topic "Cylinder misfire, forgot shop towel inside bore". Good to hear you got it all out, must have been a fun project. :thumbup:

ATE Type 200 is fine, the SL6 is for specific applications requiring low viscosity fluid such as extreme cold climates. You can use the SL6 in your car, but it won't offer any specific advantages over the Type 200 and does have lower boiling point characteristics.

As you found no ferrous materials, I would not be overly concerned. It is not unusual to see a bit more debris in the first oil filter after an IMS retrofit. The plastic looking bits are normal chain pad wear, again nothing unusual. I would suggest moving from the OEM style filter with its known by-pass issues and switching to a "full flow" (read 100% filtration at all times) spin on set up. While it will make checking the filter a bit more difficult, the superior filtration would be highly beneficial. And even if you do not change filter styles, I would change your filter again in about 1K miles to see if this clears up.

We generally use an aluminum based product, but have also used the copper based as well. I like the copper a little better, but copper prices tend to make it more expensive.

AutoAtlanta website: http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/porsche-models.php

Your lack of voltage to the O2 sensor's has got to be the crux of the sensor problem; no sensor, good or bad, works without the correct voltage to it. It is sounding more like an electrical issue upstream from the sensors.

Received the bearing fast. They were RBI brand, mfg in China. http://www.rbibearing.com/. Packaging was first quality, they came sealed in bags and the box material wasn't the toilet paper weight stuff the Chinese sometime use. The bearings themselves looked to be good quality and installed in the idlers with the expected effort. Next question. Use sealant on the metal gasket? If not, is the microscopic layer of black material on the gasket some sort of sealer? Do not use any type of sealant on the metal gasket. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean (ScotchBrite) and torque to specs.

Only on the automatic cars, it would be rather complicated to set something like that up for a manual gearbox.

Most definitely, when corrosion starts in the cables (particularly in the cable ends), the resistance can go way up and everything in the electrical system (battery, alternator, starter) can suffer as a result. You should have the cables checked for voltage drop across them to check their condition.

Better safe than sorry. :thumbup:

You have to remember that Porsche would like the IMS issue to just go away; they have already lost a class action lawsuit over them, and completely deny that it is actually possible to replace many without taking the engine apart, even though many dealers quietly do LN upgrades. And while there have been reports of high mileage cars with good IMS bearings in them, we have seen both very nice and pretty awful bearings come out of low and high mileage cars. The OEM bearing is a total crap shoot; some live, some do not. For the amount of additional cost to replace the IMS and RMS when the car is already apart for a clutch, it makes little sense to leave the original IMS bearing in the car.

Problem is that the blue shop towels are incredible strong and designed not to easily fall apart. Good for wiping off parts, bad for trying to get out of the cylinder bores.................

Totally depends upon what is wrong with the alternator.

Actually, when the Uview unit pulls 25-26 inches of vacuum, at that point there simply is no air left in the system. After testing the system for leaks by watching the vacuum level for several min., the vacuum in the system pulls the liquid coolant in until there is no more vacuum, and the system is full of coolant.

Try the RennTech store Amazon, they appear from time to time around $100, with free shipping.

Patented design.

Why not invest in the Uview airlift system and refill it with no chance of air entrapment in about 5 min.?

As there appears to be a lot of aftermarket audio wiring around there, are you sure someone didn't simply move the battery vent line over to where the AC line goes into the fender when they installed the audio hardware?

No idea, does not appear factory and the only tubing in that area would be the battery vent, but that goes downward behind the battery.

The Bentley 996 manual has a full set of wiring diagrams in it, not sure if it includes the RoW.

Not sure what you are trying to accomplish, but here goes: 1. Body plug. 2. AC line to front radiators with some wiring and a tube. 3. Body plug. 4. Body plug. 5. AC line with wires and tube.

Yes.