JFP in PA

I sometimes start to get a headache from all the "latest" IMS cures. Couple of points: The oil pump drive shaft is already a weak point in these engines, now you are going to machine away some of its mass to create an oil passageway. Not so sure that is a good idea. Second, this approach will need to flood the entire IMS shaft before the oil even gets to the rear of the IMS bearing, so it will just sit in the shaft, making it heavy and loading the chain cam drive system even further Third, the rear of the IMS bearing is sealed, so unless you are going to take the bearing out and replace it with an unsealed bearing, oil is not even going to reach the IMS bearing. Fourth, the end user needs to make a tool to hammer a 1-3MM opening in the plug in the oil pump end of the IMS shaft; that is a pretty small opening to get with a ground down punch and a hammer, so what happens if it is too big, say 6MM by accident (easy enough to do when you are whacking something with a hammer to get an opening)? No oil pressure perhaps? Yikes! If you have to take the bearing is out, why not just install the proven LN Ceramic kit, which has shown in more than ten thousand installations that it does not need pressurize oil feeds, or any other Band-Aids, and put the car back together? Less complications, proven results...................

Did you mean Suncoast? Sunset Porsche is a RennTech.org board sponsor.

When you get an AOS going south, you really should change everything connected to it as there will be built up oil residue in them. People often skip this to save money, but it is false economy because you usually end up going back and changing it later.

You can also get the same information in the 996 Bentley manual, although they are usually listed in small tables in the section referring to the repair at hand. The Bentley manual is available at the RennTech "store" at Amazon.

Another Regan fan; "Trust, but verify............." :thumbup:

Possibly; high pressure fuel pump issues are fairly well known, fuel intrusion from the DFI is leading to cylinder wall scoring issues, and more importantly there have been some multiple reports of abnormal cam chain wear. If the chain fails, the end result would be the same as an IMS failure. Argh, that's disappointing to say the least. Thanks for the info. I was hoping the 9A1 a bullet proof engine :( The closest thing Porsche has produced to being bullet proof was the Metzger lump (now discontinued) that used to come in the Turbo and GT cars. Brutally strong, and ridiculously expensive; but you could still break it if you really tried. Hopefully the engines in the new 991 cars particularly the Turbos and GTS have been sorted out by now?? At this time, I do not have enough information about what changes were made between the regular 9A1 and the Turbo versions to really be definitive on all the differences; there has to be more than a few, but Porsche has been pretty closed mouth about it. As we get to spend more time with these newer cars, all shall be revealed.... Hopefully WW's influence is wearing off. Porsche is back to racing and hopefully back to making tough cars. I'm sure they have taken the time to strengthen components to withstand the rigors of the Turbo cars and how they are used, but without having seen one example of each engine disassembled side by side, it is often difficult to figure out what they have done.

Very simple: When the AOS fails, it tends to pull a lot of oil into the intake system. There are a myriad of little nooks and crannies where the oil can sit in the intake, so it comes out very slowly over time causing prolonged smoke unless you pull the entire intake off and manually clean it out. thanks for your reply throttle and plenum has been cleaned twice the problem is The oil in TB/PLNUM bcoz of oil coming from vent line and drops in the intake What is the reason for this amount of oil seep out from AOS Through vent line Which cause the oil in TB/intake As I mentioned above to aos Was changed 2 time Is because of bad ring ? Unfortunately, most of the oil from the AOS is inside the intake runners them selves, not just the area behind the throttle body. To get it all out, you literally need to remove the entire intake system and clean it manually. If left alone, it will burn off over time, but how much time depends upon how much oil is in there. If they changed the vent line when they did the AOS, there should be no oil in it. If it is a new vent line, and it has oil in it, I would suggest getting a leak down test run on the engine to make sure it is sealing tightly.

Possibly; high pressure fuel pump issues are fairly well known, fuel intrusion from the DFI is leading to cylinder wall scoring issues, and more importantly there have been some multiple reports of abnormal cam chain wear. If the chain fails, the end result would be the same as an IMS failure. Argh, that's disappointing to say the least. Thanks for the info. I was hoping the 9A1 a bullet proof engine :( The closest thing Porsche has produced to being bullet proof was the Metzger lump (now discontinued) that used to come in the Turbo and GT cars. Brutally strong, and ridiculously expensive; but you could still break it if you really tried. Hopefully the engines in the new 991 cars particularly the Turbos and GTS have been sorted out by now?? At this time, I do not have enough information about what changes were made between the regular 9A1 and the Turbo versions to really be definitive on all the differences; there has to be more than a few, but Porsche has been pretty closed mouth about it. As we get to spend more time with these newer cars, all shall be revealed....

Enjoy Jake's class, the man literally "wrote the book" in the M96/97 engine.

Very simple: When the AOS fails, it tends to pull a lot of oil into the intake system. There are a myriad of little nooks and crannies where the oil can sit in the intake, so it comes out very slowly over time causing prolonged smoke unless you pull the entire intake off and manually clean it out.

Correct. Use some thread locker on the flange bolts, they are under a lot of stress and prone to loosen.

Actually, what is happening is a little different. First, the screen shot capture I posted was taken when software version 6.0.3.1 was current, 6.3.2.5 is what is current now, so that was just a matter of an intervening software update. The correct DME for your car is the 5.2.2 (1998-1999 model years) not the 7.2 (2000-2001 model years). There are significant differences between the capabilities of these two versions of the DME, and the earlier version is not as capable by comparison. Selecting the wrong DME in the Durametric system can often lead you astray, so go with what is actually in the car. Your early DME does not have all the display capabilities of the later units, so some "actual values" are not available to look at. If your cam deviation values are within +/-6 degrees at idle, your cams are in correct timing. If you activated the VarioCam at idle, you should see the cam deviation values jump to show the system trying to move the cam around 25 degrees, and the car will start to idle roughly; that would show that the VarioCam unit is functional. If your cam deviation values are in range, the VarioCam is working, and the Durametric is not seeing the P1531 code return, you should be good to go.

First of all, when was the last time the clutch hydraulic fluid was flushed? We see a fair number of "dead clutches" that suddenly come back to life with some attention to the hydraulic system. RMS, if you are in there, change it. Porsche has significantly updated these seals, and the latest PTFE versions have all but eliminated leakage issues. You can definitely install the RMS using a 4" OD PVC pipe union, if you exercise care. Using the old flywheel bolts, which will rest on the ridge inside the union, hand tighten the bolts in a cross pattern slowly until you obtain the correct installed distance from the flywheel mating surface, which is 13MM, not 14. During the installation of the seal, keep all the surfaces scrupulously clean and free of any lubricant or sealants. Axles: As you did not say two or four wheel drive, the front axle to flange is 29 ft. lb.; rears are 60 ft. lb. at the transmission, 340 ft. lb. at the hub. Pressure plate bolts are 17 ft. lb., flywheel bolts are 19 ft. lb. +90 degrees. Both the flywheel and pressure plate bolts are single use only, so do not reuse them.

Not completely; the 2006 engine definitely does not have the serviceable IMS bearing, but the 2005 may or may not (visual inspection is required) as they came both ways.

They are both VarioCam Plus and should both be using the 7.8.1 DME.

It is often said that with enough time, money, welding rod, and duct tape; anything is possible. But the question is, would the view be worth the climb...... The later engine has significant system changes, your 2006 engine uses a 7.8.1 DME, the 2010 engine would use a SD13 DME. The 2010 engine is setup for DFI, which your car lacks; amongst other changes you would need to make would be to retrofit the 1700 PSIG fuel system from the 2010 car into your 2006 chassis, which is a major undertaking. And that is only scratching the surface of the changes required. I think you need to expand your search for a replacement engine that matches your car, or consider having a top flight engine builder like Flat Six Innovations re-do yours; even with a lot of updates, it would probably be cheaper and would produce a lot of power while bolting right in.

Actually they do make contact just fine. Because to do the triple row, you need to disassemble your engine, and send your IMS shaft to LN Engineering and have it modified to accept this multiple ceramic bearing system, there are relatively few of them on the street. But it is immensely strong (strongest of any design using a ball bearing) as all three rows are in full contact, and has been used in a handful of highly modified engines with total success (no failures, even with only a limited number were ever done this way). Squirting oil onto the bearing may or may not help, depending upon where the oil is coming from. The "competition" you mention use an oil feed from one of the hottest and dirtiest parts of the engine to spray oil onto the ball bearing, which risks introducing debris and hot oil into an already fragile system. Both LN and Jake Raby have been quite vocal about why this is a bad idea and could actually lead to a failure that would not have occurred otherwise. If memory serves, Jake actually experimented with oil fed single row ball bearings, but went away from the design due to the additional problems it introduced, and eventually went to his patented ball bearing less Solution design for single row engines, which mimic's the style of oil fed solid surface bearing already in use in other similar Porsche engine applications, which if you think about it also totally puts to rest the concept that the shaft rocking is the problem. Until (and if) they develop a "Solution" style solid bearing for dual row applications, with tens of thousands of successful installations, their splash oil fed dual row bearing system remains the proven way for dual row owners to go.

Unfortunately, as RennTech vigorously respects all intellectual property rights, this thread has now been closed.

If you have an M96 engine that actually blew a head gasket, it would be the first one I have ever heard of doing that; the M96 simply does not blow head gaskets. When these engine's suffer intermix issues, the three most common candidates are blown oil coolers, cracked cylinder heads, and cracked or slipped cylinder liners. Quite often, the cracks are very difficult to see without special procedures: Normally, when we get in an intermix car, we pull the oil cooler and pressure test it. If it passes, we pull the heads and start searching for what has cracked. Putting the engine back together without proper checking for cracking was the wrong move, the coolant that reenters the oil really tears up the bearing shells quickly, usually ending up with spun bearings and/or a seized engine, as you have discovered. And not to pick on your shop, but if you have suffered and intermix, the sump should have been pulled and all "residual" mix flushed out. I think you are still facing an engine with an internal crack somewhere. Hey JFP, thanks for the quick reply. The shop I took it to are Engine builders. I assumed they would know what they were doing that's all. The mixing before I took it to them was extreme but it's pretty minimal now. The cylinders did have scratching but I'm 100% certain they're not cracked and as for the heads, it's possible as I hadn't even gotten into any detail about it. The oil cooler was changed, guanine Porsche cooler. I just believed them when they said it was a blown head gasket I guess :(. Would that cause my oil pressure problem? I would pull the oil pump assembly and look at it; you could have some residual debris in the pressure check valve assembly, or if you see any unusual wear or marks on the pump gears, debris related wear may have reduced their ability to properly pump the oil. Exactly what testing have you done that leaves you with such confidence that you have no cracks in an engine that is well known for cracking? In an engine with no cracks, there should be no intermixing at all............

If you have an M96 engine that actually blew a head gasket, it would be the first one I have ever heard of doing that; the M96 simply does not blow head gaskets. When these engine's suffer intermix issues, the three most common candidates are blown oil coolers, cracked cylinder heads, and cracked or slipped cylinder liners. Quite often, the cracks are very difficult to see without special procedures: Normally, when we get in an intermix car, we pull the oil cooler and pressure test it. If it passes, we pull the heads and start searching for what has cracked. Putting the engine back together without proper checking for cracking was the wrong move, the coolant that reenters the oil really tears up the bearing shells quickly, usually ending up with spun bearings and/or a seized engine, as you have discovered. And not to pick on your shop, but if you have suffered and intermix, the sump should have been pulled and all "residual" mix flushed out. I think you are still facing an engine with an internal crack somewhere.

We prefer the Wix/NAPA Gold 51042 or 51042XP. Both are excellent filters at reasonable prices. The 51042 had a specialty paper filter media, the XP adds a synthetic media for even better filtration.

On the V8 engines, there is a test port cap at the front end of the passenger side fuel rail: http://www.inkilino.es/Porsche_Cayenne_02-06/FUEL%20ACTUATION.pdf Not sure if the V6 is the same.

The paddles shed their wear pads for a long time before anything starts to go bad. Keep and eye on your cam deviation values, as long as they stay inbounds, you are good to go.

These can come from a couple of sources, the chain tensioning paddles have plastic wear pads on them, the engine also uses sealants rather than gaskets on a lot of surfaces, and sometimes there is a little bit of squeeze out the eventually breaks off and ends up in the filter. Not uncommon.

You are mixing posters and time frames, today's poster said: "mine's a 02 C4S with tiptronic tran...guess it's about time to change oil."