JFP in PA

+1, a very common problem with these plastic housings. You may also have either a bad, pinched, or misaligned top O-ring seal as well.

That is exactly why Porsche moved away from the more stable five chain in favor of the three chain design.

What you are seeing is the hydraulic tensioners slowly pump up and clean out over time. Run the car for a bit (take it for a 15-20 min. drive so it is fully warmed up) and then recheck the deviation values when you get back.

Get the battery load tested to either identify it as a problem or eliminate it from consideration.

A lot of factors come into play on when to replace the clutch assembly. As most people do not know to compress the marcel spring between the clutch disc faces before attempting to measure the disc thickness for wear the way you were doing it in the photos, and little information is published on disc wear limits (but I will see if I can find something), disc face measurements can often be misleading. And, as strange as this may sound, we look at the pressure plate fingers and throw out bearing for signs of wear. Quite often, the fingers and/or the bearing show a lot of wear before the disc even begins to look poorly. And If you are going to replace the pressure plate because of finger wear, it makes no sense to reuse the worn disc. At the end of the day, a clutch kit does not cost that much, assuming the flywheel is still in good shape, and when doing an IMS you have already spend the time to get in there, so it makes sense (particularly financially if you are paying someone to do it) to reuse the clutch. Once the car is buttoned up, you really don't want to go back in to swap parts you could have replaced while it was apart. OK, I found some factory data on the disc face wear: But I would still look at the pressure plate fingers for wear, regardless of how the disc measures.

The instructions are ambiguous due to the same engine used in both the Boxster and 996. You want to lock Bank #1 (cylinders 1,2,3). The IMS tensioner is the same one indicated in the photo you included. A lot of people fab a second cam locking tool just to be safe, but it is not absolutely a requirement. If you completely remove the tensioners, do not mix them, they are not all the same. You should also replace the aluminum sealing ring on each tensioner released or removed to prevent future oil leaks.

Looking at your latest pictures, I would concur; and remember to only rotate the engine clockwise, never counter clockwise.

Another poster (Xmac) recently added this example of how the cam notches are off center and how to read the TDC positions :

As long as the engine was thoroughly warmed up, the data should be accurate. While the one cam obviously exceeds the spec limits, as long as the values are constant and not bouncing around excessively, it is not an IMS issue. On the subject of IMS refits, when Jake Raby gets one of these cars into his shop for a retrofit and it is throwing large deviation values, he will not do the IMS unless the tensioners are corrected as well as he knows the car will eventually throw codes due to the worn pads and does not want anyone to relate the cam deviation issues with the IMS refit.

Thanks for the explanation. So for DME 7.2 and later, these codes don't really help diagnostic much if there are no other codes. Glad I asked. These could be extremely misleading for 7.2 and later. I think part of the problem is that document has a 1999 date, so it may have been correct at the time. You have to be careful with check for supplements and updates. Thanks John. Do you know if this "dual nature" of P1128/1130 still holds true today for DME 7.2 and 7.8? To my knowledge, yes. And to add to Loren's point, on the later cars you need to collect some additional data, such as fuel trims, to know where you are.

You need to make sure you are taking your readings after the car is warmed up and driven a bit. Checking as Xmac did will not harm anything, but as your engine is also a five chain, it is a reasonable assumption that the same tensioner wear pads are on their way out. This is a fairly common maintenance problem on these engines.

Yes, just don't go crazy with the green Loctite. Its purpose is to wick into the nut threads and prevent oil from seeping down the threads, not to lock the fasteners together.

Thanks for the explanation. So for DME 7.2 and later, these codes don't really help diagnostic much if there are no other codes. Glad I asked. These could be extremely misleading for 7.2 and later. I think part of the problem is that document has a 1999 date, so it may have been correct at the time. You have to be careful with check for supplements and updates.

Loctite 290 is the green wicking product.

We use a 3 lb. dead blow, works fine.

Glad you got it sorted, SIR is pretty good about supporting their tools.

That sounds like the first version of the adaptor that also utilized and adaptor the fit into the oil drain holes as well. There is a second version that supposedly uses a smaller socket and no adaptor.

At a minimum, you will need access to either a PIWIS or Durametric system to correctly flush and bleed the system after the parts are installed.

The Actual values for the engine are not responding, RPM, Fuel trim, Oil pressure, etc. I have the car parked because I cannot diagnose the Oil Pressure Monitoring fault... Because Porsche periodically changes the game by switching DME suppliers and the like, Durametric is always playing catch up. And when Porsche does make an unannounced change, shops or end users are the ones that discover it and report it to the Durametric crew. That said, a couple of months is not at all unusual time frame for them to find a work around to address it, and often it can take a lot longer. I have always found the Durametric crew to be upfront when some problem pops up, so I wouldn't be quick to label their frankness as poor customer service. You may not like what they have to say, but they don't sugar coat things, or over promise and under deliver. At the end of the day, unless you have the bucks to jump for a PIWIS lease, they are still the best alternative................ Yea, but it's been a couple years since they said they would fix the transposition of the error codes... still not done on the Cayenne! The frustration has been being told it would be soon, fixing the current problem and having ther car parked waiting.... Durametric is often dancing a fine line around copy rights and patents to steer clear of Porsche's infamous tendency to set the lawyers on anyone that violates their intellectual property rights. Porsche does not make this easy. So some things take more time, and others that center around certain protected code areas will probably never become available. There are also priorities in terms of how many vehicles would an additional feature cover, they have to go with the most widely useful features first. As a shop owner, right now I'd much rather have the ability to service PDK transmissions, which are seen in just about every model, than another feature that I might only use once or twice a year because you almost never come across it.

Because Porsche periodically changes the game by switching DME suppliers and the like, Durametric is always playing catch up. And when Porsche does make an unannounced change, shops or end users are the ones that discover it and report it to the Durametric crew. That said, a couple of months is not at all unusual time frame for them to find a work around to address it, and often it can take a lot longer. I have always found the Durametric crew to be upfront when some problem pops up, so I wouldn't be quick to label their frankness as poor customer service. You may not like what they have to say, but they don't sugar coat things, or over promise and under deliver. At the end of the day, unless you have the bucks to jump for a PIWIS lease, they are still the best alternative................

Sound like either the rear trunk electric latch is misadjusted or may need lubrication.

Basically, we have customers that always asked for us not to use the blue out of fear it would discolor the plastic reservoir, and we have obliged them. When the gold, or ATE 200 as it is properly known, get old and dirty, it is enough of a change when the clean fluid shows up at the bleeders. With the gold to blue, even Ray Charles could have caught the change over, but as the federal nannies have moved to prevent the end of civilization as we know it by banning any other color than yellow-amber for brake fluids, you will need to pay a bit more attention when flushing the car.

Along with defeating the purpose of the two colors, the blue is no longer available, but when it was it was exactly the same fluid as the gold, but with a blue dye in it.

When you pressure bleed, the new fluid moves through the system like a slug, pushing all the old dirty fluid in front of it, so there is no need to drain the reservoir. That is one of the beauties of doing it that way. Trying to drain the reservoir can also create issues as people sometimes drip brake fluid in the process which can blister paint and create a mess that is often difficult to clean up.

You can check the wiring using voltage drop test that will indicate if there is higher than expected resistance, particularly in the heavy cables, that would reduce the systems ability to turn over or start.