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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Received the bearing fast. They were RBI brand, mfg in China. http://www.rbibearing.com/. Packaging was first quality, they came sealed in bags and the box material wasn't the toilet paper weight stuff the Chinese sometime use. The bearings themselves looked to be good quality and installed in the idlers with the expected effort. Next question. Use sealant on the metal gasket? If not, is the microscopic layer of black material on the gasket some sort of sealer? Do not use any type of sealant on the metal gasket. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean (ScotchBrite) and torque to specs.
  2. Only on the automatic cars, it would be rather complicated to set something like that up for a manual gearbox.
  3. Most definitely, when corrosion starts in the cables (particularly in the cable ends), the resistance can go way up and everything in the electrical system (battery, alternator, starter) can suffer as a result. You should have the cables checked for voltage drop across them to check their condition.
  4. You have to remember that Porsche would like the IMS issue to just go away; they have already lost a class action lawsuit over them, and completely deny that it is actually possible to replace many without taking the engine apart, even though many dealers quietly do LN upgrades. And while there have been reports of high mileage cars with good IMS bearings in them, we have seen both very nice and pretty awful bearings come out of low and high mileage cars. The OEM bearing is a total crap shoot; some live, some do not. For the amount of additional cost to replace the IMS and RMS when the car is already apart for a clutch, it makes little sense to leave the original IMS bearing in the car.
  5. Problem is that the blue shop towels are incredible strong and designed not to easily fall apart. Good for wiping off parts, bad for trying to get out of the cylinder bores.................
  6. Totally depends upon what is wrong with the alternator.
  7. Actually, when the Uview unit pulls 25-26 inches of vacuum, at that point there simply is no air left in the system. After testing the system for leaks by watching the vacuum level for several min., the vacuum in the system pulls the liquid coolant in until there is no more vacuum, and the system is full of coolant.
  8. Try the RennTech store Amazon, they appear from time to time around $100, with free shipping.
  9. Why not invest in the Uview airlift system and refill it with no chance of air entrapment in about 5 min.?
  10. As there appears to be a lot of aftermarket audio wiring around there, are you sure someone didn't simply move the battery vent line over to where the AC line goes into the fender when they installed the audio hardware?
  11. No idea, does not appear factory and the only tubing in that area would be the battery vent, but that goes downward behind the battery.
  12. The Bentley 996 manual has a full set of wiring diagrams in it, not sure if it includes the RoW.
  13. Not sure what you are trying to accomplish, but here goes: 1. Body plug. 2. AC line to front radiators with some wiring and a tube. 3. Body plug. 4. Body plug. 5. AC line with wires and tube.
  14. From the "Ragu principle" , it's in there. TRA (bank 1)and TRA2 (bank 2) are the idle sector system adaptation values, typically around a value of 0.150 or so. These actual values can range from -0.37 (lean threshold) to 0.37 (rich threshold) at idle. He is sitting right at the rich threshold values.
  15. You really do not want to use a metal impeller pump; the gap between the impeller and the alloy engine case wall is quite small, and eventually the pump bearing will wear causing the shaft to wobble, and the metal impeller will start "machining" the alloy case, which will quickly do irreparable damage to the engine case as well as filling the cooling system with finely ground metal. That is why Porsche uses a composite impeller.................
  16. When the bits go missing, extensive back flushing of components is required to try and get it all out. That is why proactive replacements are mandatory.
  17. The purpose of the thermostat is to stop or reduce coolant flow until a set temperature is reached in the engine.
  18. The water pump failure process is fairly well documented, the composite impeller starts to break up over time, reducing the system's efficiency as well as clogging small passages in the cooling system. While this is a pump out of a 30K miles 996, it illustrates what happens over time (and this one is only starting to fail): If you have access to the Excellence magazine, there is an in depth discussion of how this happens starting on page 36 of the May 2014 issue; it is in the "Tech Notes" letters section in a letter titled "Anxious Pump Watcher".
  19. Like many other "modern" Porsche water pumps, the Cayenne uses a composite impeller which will simply wear over time. This fact makes the pump a "maintenance item", meaning it needs to be changed proactively about every 4-6 years, regardless of what the cooling system is doing at the time. While swapping out the pump and thermostats makes excellent sense, I would skip the use of any coolant "additives" as they are short term Band-Aids that often degrade the otherwise excellent life expectancy of the Porsche coolant when it is mixed with distilled water.
  20. OK, let's look at the data. Here is what jumps out: Your idle speed is low, normal range is 790-800 RPM Both TRA values are sitting at their rich threshold values Cam deviation values are excellent Air mass in within normal range One O2 sensor showing no voltage P1531 - Not seeing the triggering VarioCam actuator on bank 1, but the cam is moving to the active position. Usually a wiring short or defective VarioCam actuator. P0130 - O2 sensor ahead of TWC on bank 1 either shorted or limited voltage range. Three possible: the sensor itself is bad, a wiring to the sensor issue, DME problem (rare). P0150 - O2 sensor ahead of TWC on bank 2 either shorted or limited voltage range. Same possible as above. P0130 and 0150, I would look at the harness connections to make sure they are correct and tight (do not use any cleaners on these connections, it typically leads to instant death for the sensor). With both pre TWC sensors "offline", I am not surprised the engine is having a tough time gaining idle control. P1531, again, I would start by looking at the harness connectors for the actuator. You can also use the Durametric system to trigger the actuator, which should cause a cam deviation angle change and throw the idle off; it also make a pronounced clicking sound when the actuator solenoid triggers.
  21. Are you sure you have the Durametric set for your model DME?
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