JFP in PA

The video you are looking at is not for a DFI car, yours is a DFI car. The car in the video is running at less than 60PSIG fuel pressure at the injectors, yours is at over 1,700PSIG. If you do not know what you are doing, or if you mess with this high pressure system using the wrong tools, you could seriously injure your self, or worse. If you were to find an adaptor and connect the gauge in the video to the high pressure side of your car, your fuel system would blow it apart. If you do not have the correct equipment or experience, I'd suggest taking it to someone that does

You didn't say what model or year, but assuming an early Boxster it is in the rear boot next to the main DME unit, mounted on the boot's forward bulkhead.

You will not be able to rotate the engine fast enough to get the VarioCam system to kick in (no oil pressure).

All the more reason to track down one of the LN Engineering part number 106-05 first version tools.

We have not seen this problem to date, so it may be recent production. We have also retained a couple of the first style unit's "installation tool" (LN Engineering part number 106-05) that was a separate piece used to install the first style that used solid metal pins that slipped into the oil holes in the filter unit and had a machined head that the socket slipped over. These things were very well made (all steel) and probably cost LN a bit, which is why the discontinued them and went to the hex on the filter adaptor itself. These installation tools still fit the current version spin on adapters, and we tend to use them to install the spin on adapter rather than put a steel tool on the alloy hex. You might want to check fleabay to see if any of these tools are still about, a lot of them were disposed of once the spin on adaptor was installed. And additional thought would be to ask Charles if he has any of the old tools kicking around (the original style adaptor cannot be installed without one).

Hard to say without more data. I'd get the battery load tested, and also have the alternator output voltage tested.

Depends upon where your head is at. Auto Enginuity is an OK diagnostic system, but pricey and not as completely capable as the Durametric system. The basic AE tool will set you back about $250, and then you need to add the "enhancement" for another $230. The basic, or "enthusiast" version of the Durametric system is $287 all in, and is considered by many to be the most capable Porsche diagnostic tool other than Durametric Pro version ($753), or the factory the PIWIS ($~17K first year lease). And while AE was charging for future updates in the past, but now are offering them for free, all Durametric updates have always been free.

Replacement wheel speed and brake pad sensors will have the correct connectors on them, but if you have also lost the harness side connectors, you have a bit of a problem. Porsche does not break up the main wiring harness into too many replaceable sections, and the ones they do sell are anything but cheap or easy to replace. You may be better off getting new sensors and then either trying the scrap yards for a useable section, or going to a VW dealer and seeing if they can match the sensor connectors for you (a lot of the connectors are VW sourced on these cars). And when you splice into the main harness, use shrink wraps to seal the splice against the weather.

Try disconnecting the cable from the throttle body and see if the car does the same thing when you manually operate the throttle; if it does, it is not the cable.

Ummm......How about "Welcome to RennTech"! :welcome:

Sounds like you may have a vacuum leak. I would recheck everything you did when you removed the throttle body.

When you've got that much money, you can be as irritating as you like.............. :eek:

Well, if it makes you feel any better, the Special Toll 9609 would not have worked anyway, you needed Special Tool 9699 and 9699/2 to do the new style seal: These are hard to find items even here, and will set you back over $500 (US) if you could find one. Get the plastic pipe coupler...........

This has been covered before, but it can be done using a 4" diameter plastic pipe coupler (has a ridge half way down the inside that the old flywheel bolt heads can rest on, then tighten slowly in a crosswise pattern to pull it in evenly.) The trick to getting the new design PTFE seal to work where the older design did not is being absolutely scrupulously clean, not even finger prints on any parts, and no sealant of any kind. You also have to install it at an unusual depth, 13MM from the flywheel mating surface of the crank, not 14MM. Wonderful! I've considered to fabricate a tool like this (did a crude sketchup), which is a bit wider than 4" but still fits. Don't know how to thank you enough JFP! You are not the first to attempt this:

This has been covered before, but it can be done using a 4" diameter plastic pipe coupler (has a ridge half way down the inside that the old flywheel bolt heads can rest on, then tighten slowly in a crosswise pattern to pull it in evenly.) The trick to getting the new design PTFE seal to work where the older design did not is being absolutely scrupulously clean, not even finger prints on any parts, and no sealant of any kind. You also have to install it at an unusual depth, 13MM from the flywheel mating surface of the crank, not 14MM.

The clutch lubricant is circulated to a oil/water cooler on the side of the gearbox, the controls are internal to the PDK control computer. The clutch oil pump is inside the bell housing, not unlike an traditional automatic transmission: Porsche manual vs PDK cutaway.jpg Changing the clutch oil flow requires activating a valve inside that pump, hence the use of the PIWIS to control it. Nice picture JFP. Where are the solenoids that operate the gear box and clutches?? I hope they are easy to get to as they are the most likely parts to fail. It is cool that the gear boxes are almost identicle! I wonder how it gets itself into first gear in sub zero temps? The first shift at -10 degrees is like rowing through molasses. Does it go to bed in first gear? A lot of the control system is internal to the gearbox and operated remotely by the computer, which is why a lot of independent's are kind of stuck on servicing the transmission (at this time, there is not an aftermarket system such as the Durametric that can even do the clutch oil change out, which happens with twice the frequency of the gearbox lube itself, due to the necessity of a PIWIS system). The transmission is decidedly not technician friendly, and the dealers are not going much beyond changing both oils and re-flashing the computer before swapping out the unit for a replacement when problems occur. Because the trans is basically an "automated" version of the manual 7 speed, I think the trans stays in whatever gear it was shut off in (probably to facilitate the new auto start/stop function), but there is no real way of telling as it seems to go through a series of diagnostic checks as the car starts. Here's one out of the car, and there really is not much to see: What is that Blue knob at the top rear on the driver's side? What is that black knob down low a bit to the front with the diagonal grooves with the sheet metal bracket under it?? In general how are these boxes holding up? I'm hoping that they have most of the bugs worked out by now. Any weaknesses I should know about? I assume when you send these back they send you a rebuild and give you a core charge? How much?? I believe it is the clutch oil fill. Some of the early cars had software issues that caused surging complaints, but they have updated the system. Because these are an offshoot of Porsche Motorsports, these things should be very strong. It's hard to get the dealers to give you straight numbers, but what I have heard is that the twin clutch unit (parts only) is $5-6K, and a replacement transmission, sitting on the ground in a crate, is about $15-17K. I have not heard any core swap numbers. As you originally asked about the control system, thought you might enjoy this video of Jay Leno taking one apart and then beating Hell out of a car with one. Be sure to note what looks like an over sized valve body on the table by the opened up trans; that is your control system: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0t2xia8xxs&feature=player_embedded

The clutch lubricant is circulated to a oil/water cooler on the side of the gearbox, the controls are internal to the PDK control computer. The clutch oil pump is inside the bell housing, not unlike an traditional automatic transmission: Porsche manual vs PDK cutaway.jpg Changing the clutch oil flow requires activating a valve inside that pump, hence the use of the PIWIS to control it. Nice picture JFP. Where are the solenoids that operate the gear box and clutches?? I hope they are easy to get to as they are the most likely parts to fail. It is cool that the gear boxes are almost identicle! I wonder how it gets itself into first gear in sub zero temps? The first shift at -10 degrees is like rowing through molasses. Does it go to bed in first gear? A lot of the control system is internal to the gearbox and operated remotely by the computer, which is why a lot of independent's are kind of stuck on servicing the transmission (at this time, there is not an aftermarket system such as the Durametric that can even do the clutch oil change out, which happens with twice the frequency of the gearbox lube itself, due to the necessity of a PIWIS system). The transmission is decidedly not technician friendly, and the dealers are not going much beyond changing both oils and re-flashing the computer before swapping out the unit for a replacement when problems occur. Because the trans is basically an "automated" version of the manual 7 speed, I think the trans stays in whatever gear it was shut off in (probably to facilitate the new auto start/stop function), but there is no real way of telling as it seems to go through a series of diagnostic checks as the car starts. Here's one out of the car, and there really is not much to see:

This "flushing" is boiling them out in a pan of Marvel Mystery Oil, right? I'm waiting for warm weather so the rest of the car is warm compared to the IMSB from the freezer. If they are nasty we put them in a pan of very warm Mystery oil or in an ultrasonic cleaner; otherwise we just flush them with clean oil.

Have they checked the crank position sensor? A bad one will stop the car from starting.

Step 16 is a fix for a loose bearing or out of round shaft. The bearing itself should be a press fit, hence the removal and installation processes. But sometimes you find really loose bearings in cars, which is when you would use the Loctite. The bearing goes in dry; if cold enough, no lubricant is really needed.

While you may not have noticed it, when you were prepping for the extracting the old bearing, you pulled the shaft slightly towards the flywheel. When you hammered in the new bearing, it moved slightly the other way, but it will straighten itself out.

That looks fine. The entire IMS shaft can move back and forth a bit, so don't be overly concerned about that. This could be completely bogus and I am not going to do this, but feel free to wonder the following.. When you tap new bearing in, IMS moves slightly away from the flywheel side. After we torque IMSB stud nut on step 22, IMS cannot move back to its original position anymore. However, before step 22 when IMSB flange is secured but IMSB stud nut is still loose, why don't we reinstall tensioners and perhaps even remove cams + crank lock and rotate engine a few times to let IMS, chains and paddles settle better before continuing with the step 22? Once again, I do not suggest that anyone tries this, I am simply trying to learn something :lightbulb: It feels a bit strange to move IMS a bit (manually) and then secure it to such place. Can be that it is simply the price that one has to pay when doing bearing upgrades. You could do that, but it is not really necessary. First of all, the IMS shaft will relocate itself just fine all by itself when the engine starts to turn over for its first restart. Secondly, we normally flush out the hydraulic tensioner's if they are not being replaced, and then hand pump them in clean oil just prior to reinstalling them with new sealing washers, so they have some tension on them at first start. Third, we normally pull the fuel pump relay out (so that the car won't start), and then spin it over with the starter until it develops oil pressure, which also allows everything to settle. Then, after one more inspection for anything that was missed, put the relay back in and light the car off.

We have seen a lot of people try this trick, and quite plainly it does not work. Xmac is on the money when he notes that by the time you see the ripped tie rod end boot, the damage is already begun. Dirt, water, road salt, and whatever else happens by has already gotten in there and is slowly started chewing the unit to death. The time you would spend trying to tape up the joint and lubricate it would better be spent replacing it.

The oil fillers do crack in all sections, with the center section failing most often.

Yes, the differential in inside the gearbox (see the cutaway photos in my post #10 above). Except for the gear selection controls, the gearbox is very similar to the manual seven speed gearbox, but the larger issue is changing the clutch oil (which is different) and requires the use of a PIWIS system to accomplish.