JFP in PA

I've not seen them for rent, but they do pop up for sale on various Porsche forums and flea bay from time to time.

If you feel you have carbon bits holding an exhaust valve open and causing the leak down issues, I would try just starting it up. Anything sitting in the exhaust valve or runner area is going to get blown into the exhaust system as soon as the engine fires. Spraying chemicals into the exhaust port is going to force the carbon bits into the cylinders where they could get down along side the pistons and potentially score the walls; I would try not to go there.

The stainless filter is expensive, takes time to clean properly, and has multiple parts sealed with O-rings, so they can leak if not reassembled properly. You can get a throw away spin on with a full synthetic media and finer pore sizes for around $8 that will never leak and does not have to be disassembled and cleaned every time. I agree it is pricey, but personally I think the benefits of thorough inspection + the additional magnet are worth it. Cleaning can be done in the 5-10 mins it takes to let the oil fully drain. And if your cutting open a spin on filter, that will take time as well. The K&P only uses 1 o-ring which is located in the same spot as a normal spin on filter, where it meets the adapter. Also acts as a mini heat sink (though probably not a dramatic effect) You can also hang a FilterMag on the outside of the throw away spin on as well; many of my customers do exactly that.

Well, here it was politically expedient to go to this method of "single stream" recycling, most local governments discovered that if you required the user to separate the material types, no one did it and everything just went into landfill trash. So by installing the separation hardware, the recycling was actually being used because it was simpler, just throw anything recyclable into the recycle container and the collection point facility does the rest. Actually lowered overall costs because less ended up going into the landfill. A win-win solution.

Add a magnetic drain plug if you do not already have one, it helps alert you to ferrous debris if it starts to occur. I would also definitely add an IMS upgrade while doing the clutch, and also change the AOS while the tranny is out and it is in the open.

Interesting. Here they no longer require separating the types of recyclable materials in most states, everything goes into a single container and the types of materials are separated by automated systems at the recovery point.

The valve at the pump is a pressure regulating valve that limits the upper oil pressure reached, it is not designed to do anything if the filter becomes clogged other than control the maximum pressure. When the oil filter becomes clogged, exactly what will it be clogged with? Usually metal debris from a disintegrating engine, and running it with the metal circulating rather than tripping the oil pressure light and shutting it down will end up only worsening the already existing damage. A larger and longer term issue is that the by-pass valve sticks open all the time, so little or nothing is filtered. If you want to read more about the rational for going full flow, Excellence Magazine had a tech article that expanded on the multiple reasons to get away from the by-pass system. We have many customers, both on the street and the track, that run full flow setups and have done for years, no problems.

Help me understand the "environmental" aspect of the cartridge style oil filter; both style filters use materials of construction which are totally recyclable, so how is one more "environmentally friendly" than the other? The spin on filters (Wix/NAPA "XP" filters) we use do not have paper media, but use a fully synthetic material that is both finer in pore diameter and considerably stronger than the paper style.

Not really sure why Porsche used the cartridge style filter, it may be something as simple as a design they had used before and were comfortable with, or it was cheap. The by-pass valve is designed to open if the oil filter becomes completely clogged with debris or on a very cold start (0F or lower) with very thick conventional oils. The truth of the matter is that with multi weight full synthetic oils, the cold start issue has already been addressed, which is why many OEM's have totally gotten away from using by-pass systems, and even those that still use them put them into a spin on filter so you get a new valve at every oil change. And before someone asks, if your filter became totally clogged by metallic debris while running, your engine is already dead and needs to come out for rebuild or replacement, so the by-pass has become totally superfluous. The stainless filter is expensive, takes time to clean properly, and has multiple parts sealed with O-rings, so they can leak if not reassembled properly. You can get a throw away spin on with a full synthetic media and finer pore sizes for around $8 that will never leak and does not have to be disassembled and cleaned every time.

Yes, they can be related. You car's lighter socket is hot at all times so it can be used to plug a battery maintainer into it. Both your nav unit and your iPhone chargers are "hot at all times when plugged in, so they are large parasitic draw items, even when the devices they power are not in the car. Both your ABS and PSM systems are hyper sensitive to voltage fluctuations, quite often when we get a customer's car in with the ABS and PSM MIL lights on, it turns out to be an electrical system problem (corroded cables, weak battery, bad alternator).

You could also buy a hand held load tester and test the alternator and battery yourself without any data loss or battery disconnect. Units sell on Amazon and elsewhere for as little as $45-65 US. Handy tool to own: http://www.amazon.com/3181-Heavy-Duty-Battery-Load-Tester/dp/B000O3U2UQ/ref=sr_1_2/175-7444179-0003640?ie=UTF8&qid=1396133146&sr=8-2&keywords=battery+load+tester

If you can live with disconnecting the battery (loss of settings and DME data), you can use your volt meter set for mA between the positive cable and the battery; you should see 40-60mA. If you see more current draw than that, start pulling and then replacing the fuses one at a time until the current draw suddenly drops into that range. When that happens, you have isolated the fuse circuit that the parasitic draw is on.

+1, you can actually run a true load test on the alternator with the correct equipment such as a battery load tester.

Your voltage is too low, should be between 13.5 and 14.5V with the engine running, you are reading battery voltage so either the alternator or voltage regulator (inside the alternator) is bad.

From personal experience, I have about 15k on a M96 powered Boxster and just under 5k on a M96 powered C2 running LN Engineering's magnetic drain plug without any apparent negative side effects. I'm not sure what problems the plug could cause, as the torque specs are reduced and a copper crush washer is still used. If any magnetic metal shavings were circulating around in my engine, I would prefer they stuck to the magnetic oil drain plug making their existence very easily noticeable at the next oil change rather than have them circulate throughout the motor. I think the major concern with the stainless plug is the combination of its hardness and that it and the sump cover are dissimilar metals, which leads to other problems (both the OEM drain plug and LN's magnetic units are aluminum, like the sump cover). I'm a bit confused. If the OEM and LN drain plugs are both aluminum, then why is the torque spec for OEM 37 and LN 19? Shouldn't they be the same? No. The LN unit is hard anodized so that the hex does not distort or deform with use, but it is also harder than the sump cover, so you don't want to have it tearing up the cover. We have been torqueing them to 19 ft. lb. for years, never had a problem.

Would it make sense to get a replacement OEM plastic housing if the original is still in use after many years? I'd guess the bypass valve may get sticky with age/debris. Or perhaps use shop air to "back blow" the valve and dislodge any contaminants. Until the weather improves etc. and I can perform a IMS bearing upgrade this summer, I'm just checking the paper filter at short intervals (i.e. every 600 miles). You would be better off to dump the OEM style entirely and go spin on; totally puts an end to the by pass valve issue.

Flange center bolt's nut is 13mm. (I suspect it has been touched because the other three bolts on the flange are "indented" 6 point torx, not traditional hex bolts like some of the other bolts on my images.) Once again, much appreciated, excellent answer JFP, :notworthy: OK, with a 13MM center bolt nut you still have a removable IMS bearing (the non serviceable unit is the only one using a 22MM nut). The flange bolts are the correct single use microencapsulated units, you should have new ones with the IMS kit.

Both the RMS and IMS appear to show different levels of leakage; the RMS is seeping, the IMS flange is flat out leaking. I would definitely install a new PTFE style seal; at around $20, it is a no brainer. The IMS flange is leaking the worst. Probably none of them unless they show signs of a problem. The reason Porsche came out with replacement bolts had to do with the RMS bore concentricity or roundness. Back when they were replacing entire engines due to leaks that could not be stopped, Porsche came out with slightly longer microencapsulated bolts to replace the four in the bell housing area to try and hold the RMS seal bore in a more stable position during engine operation. These were typically applied to the early M96 engine's that had shorter bolts from the factory. Unfortunately, while they may have stopped the leaks in some cases, Porsche eventually figured out that the real issues were out of round RMS seal bores, and variances in the concentricity of the flywheel flange on the crank. To help the dealers decide which engine's could be saved by retrofitting rather than replacement, Porsche released special tool 9699/1, which became known as the "Go, No Go gauge". When inserted over the crank flange and into the RMS opening of the cases, if this tool touched the RMS bore edge or showed the case bore and/or crank flange was off visually center, no retrofit of bolts or a new seal was going to save the day and the engine had to be replaced. So it is more than just the bolts, but as Porsche also began using the longer bolts in regular production engines, most of the later engine's already carry them, and replacing them with new versions of the same bolt really does not accomplish anything. The IMS flange would get new bolts, however. Your current RMS (part number 997.101.212.00) is the PTFE unit, which was introduced in 2005, so yours must have been changed at least once. The IMS "part number" you have noted is for the rear flange only, not the IMS itself. But I would ask one question concerning the IMS in the engine: What size socket fits on the center bolt nut in the flange?

As you found no ferrous materials, I would not be overly concerned. It is not unusual to see a bit more debris in the first oil filter after an IMS retrofit. The plastic looking bits are normal chain pad wear, again nothing unusual. I would suggest moving from the OEM style filter with its known by-pass issues and switching to a "full flow" (read 100% filtration at all times) spin on set up. While it will make checking the filter a bit more difficult, the superior filtration would be highly beneficial. And even if you do not change filter styles, I would change your filter again in about 1K miles to see if this clears up. JFP - I am Feeling better! Many thanks. I am ordering the LN Spin-on and will replace the filter in 1K and see what it is up. Perfect plan for me actually as the OEM oil filter housing is just stripped enough by prior owner that I could not torque it properly without the filter wrench hopping around/off and was going to get a new housing anyway. When I saw this pile of junk in the filter my first that was that I could now see why you recommend the LN Spin-on- had no idea this much junk could be floating around and the idea of some of it bypassing the filter for a cycle in the engine is not appealing. Curious why it would be worse after IMS retrofit, thanks again. During the process of extracting and reinstalling the IMS bearing, it is not unusual to generate some small metal bits (prying off the heat set cover flange, forcibly extracting the bearing, hammering in the replacement, etc.), does not happen every time, but if a few bits show up in the first oil change it is not something to be overly concerned about. You also have to remember that not every installer is as meticulously clean as perhaps they should be and does not thoroughly check for any debris. One of the biggest, and perhaps least recognized problems with the OEM cartridge style filter set up in the by-pass valve in the bottom of the plastic housing. It is not at all unusual to find them partially or completely open, which means anywhere from some to nearly all the oil is going around the filter media. Not a good thing. Another advantage to the spin on is that you can employ a FilterMag type magnet on the spin on which will trap any ferrous debris in the engine that is too small (less than 15 microns) to be picked up the filter media. People that try one of these magnets are often quite surprised at how much fine ferrous debris shows up in the first filter change. Also be aware that with the spin on, you will need to cut open the metal housing to check the filter media. This can be done a variety of ways, ranging from a big tubing cutter, to a hacksaw, or even with an relatively inexpensive filter housing cutting tool.

Once I have the time, I'll write a separate thread, include good pictures and tips on how to remedy the situation. In the mean time, please PM me if you need tips, hope not :-) Right now I'm working on IMS, RMS, clutch and checking out bunch of other stuff. All in all, I managed to get everything out, without the use of compressed air or e.g. flushing cylinders. And yes, I have a leak down tester and will run it through all cyls and compare results to each other. Thanks again everyone! PS. Some admin could rename this topic "Cylinder misfire, forgot shop towel inside bore". Good to hear you got it all out, must have been a fun project. :thumbup:

ATE Type 200 is fine, the SL6 is for specific applications requiring low viscosity fluid such as extreme cold climates. You can use the SL6 in your car, but it won't offer any specific advantages over the Type 200 and does have lower boiling point characteristics.

As you found no ferrous materials, I would not be overly concerned. It is not unusual to see a bit more debris in the first oil filter after an IMS retrofit. The plastic looking bits are normal chain pad wear, again nothing unusual. I would suggest moving from the OEM style filter with its known by-pass issues and switching to a "full flow" (read 100% filtration at all times) spin on set up. While it will make checking the filter a bit more difficult, the superior filtration would be highly beneficial. And even if you do not change filter styles, I would change your filter again in about 1K miles to see if this clears up.

We generally use an aluminum based product, but have also used the copper based as well. I like the copper a little better, but copper prices tend to make it more expensive.

AutoAtlanta website: http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/porsche-models.php

Your lack of voltage to the O2 sensor's has got to be the crux of the sensor problem; no sensor, good or bad, works without the correct voltage to it. It is sounding more like an electrical issue upstream from the sensors.