JFP in PA

Step 16 is a fix for a loose bearing or out of round shaft. The bearing itself should be a press fit, hence the removal and installation processes. But sometimes you find really loose bearings in cars, which is when you would use the Loctite. The bearing goes in dry; if cold enough, no lubricant is really needed.

While you may not have noticed it, when you were prepping for the extracting the old bearing, you pulled the shaft slightly towards the flywheel. When you hammered in the new bearing, it moved slightly the other way, but it will straighten itself out.

That looks fine. The entire IMS shaft can move back and forth a bit, so don't be overly concerned about that. This could be completely bogus and I am not going to do this, but feel free to wonder the following.. When you tap new bearing in, IMS moves slightly away from the flywheel side. After we torque IMSB stud nut on step 22, IMS cannot move back to its original position anymore. However, before step 22 when IMSB flange is secured but IMSB stud nut is still loose, why don't we reinstall tensioners and perhaps even remove cams + crank lock and rotate engine a few times to let IMS, chains and paddles settle better before continuing with the step 22? Once again, I do not suggest that anyone tries this, I am simply trying to learn something :lightbulb: It feels a bit strange to move IMS a bit (manually) and then secure it to such place. Can be that it is simply the price that one has to pay when doing bearing upgrades. You could do that, but it is not really necessary. First of all, the IMS shaft will relocate itself just fine all by itself when the engine starts to turn over for its first restart. Secondly, we normally flush out the hydraulic tensioner's if they are not being replaced, and then hand pump them in clean oil just prior to reinstalling them with new sealing washers, so they have some tension on them at first start. Third, we normally pull the fuel pump relay out (so that the car won't start), and then spin it over with the starter until it develops oil pressure, which also allows everything to settle. Then, after one more inspection for anything that was missed, put the relay back in and light the car off.

We have seen a lot of people try this trick, and quite plainly it does not work. Xmac is on the money when he notes that by the time you see the ripped tie rod end boot, the damage is already begun. Dirt, water, road salt, and whatever else happens by has already gotten in there and is slowly started chewing the unit to death. The time you would spend trying to tape up the joint and lubricate it would better be spent replacing it.

The oil fillers do crack in all sections, with the center section failing most often.

Yes, the differential in inside the gearbox (see the cutaway photos in my post #10 above). Except for the gear selection controls, the gearbox is very similar to the manual seven speed gearbox, but the larger issue is changing the clutch oil (which is different) and requires the use of a PIWIS system to accomplish.

That looks fine. The entire IMS shaft can move back and forth a bit, so don't be overly concerned about that.

So a PST2 or PIWIS and not the Autologic system that my indy uses? It is impossible for me to know if the tool your indie use is accurate or not, but based upon our experience with the results of some other highly considered diagnostic tools which were supposed to be able to do this calibration and did not, I would suggest caution on how the calibration is done. The PST II, PIWIS, and Durametric a known to be able to do it, other systems not so much. What is known is that your tank was not completely empty before running the test, and from your memory they added 13L of fuel, which would appear to indicate that there may have been more fuel in the system than should have been for the calibration, and which may have thrown it off. I'd suggest that your indie rerun the calibration with the tank completely dry, 12L of fuel, and their Autologic tool; the outcome should answer your question.

I stand corrected. Further research had demonstrated that Loren's information is correct, and I should also note for future reference that multiple information sources, including Bentley's 996 manual, have proved to be incorrect on this point. The publisher has been notified of the correct information.

It is also for the C2, you just have to be more careful with the C4 because there is more places for residual fuel to hide due to the unusual tank shape. Plus the two tanks are close enough in capacity (the manual says 16.9 gallons for the C2, 16.6 for the C4) that there should be no real difference. 28 liters is the correct fuel quantity, and you also should not be using anything other than a Porsche specific diagnostic tool to do this, we have had to redo several that were supposedly done correctly with another system, only to have problems. Done correctly, the cars were fine.

The factory calibration procedure is to use 28 liters (7.3 US gallons), not 13 liters. It is also important that the fuel tank is completely empty before starting this procedure. "Calibrating fuel level sensor system 1. Disconnect the battery and cover terminal or battery. 2. Remove cap over the fuel level sensor system. 3. Remove fuel level sensor. Removing and installing fuel pump. 4. Using a fuel extractor, completely drain the fuel tank through the fuel level sensor opening. 5. Make sure that the two recesses on the left and right hand sides of the tank are emptied completely. 6. Reinstall the fuel level sensor and, with "ignition off", fill the tank with exactly 28 liters of fuel. 7. Perform tank calibration with the Porsche System Tester 2 (PIWIS or Durametric): - Select vehicle type (911 Carrera) - Select control modules - Select instrument cluster - Select menu item "Tank calibration" - Confirm calibration 8. The fuel level sensor system has now been calibrated."

As long as the coupler had sufficient ridge to catch the flywheel bolts, and the coupler rests nicely on the seal, you are golden. Couple of points on installing the RMS seal: Everything must be scrupulously clean, not even finger prints, no sealer or lubricants of any kind should be used as they will cause the new seal to leak. Clean and dry. The PTFE seal has a different installed depth: 13MM from the flywheel mating face of the crankshaft.

What tooling did you use to pull the hub? Heat may be your friend here, heating the remaining section will expand it and it should come off with some "encouragement".

And Snap-On sells the special tool for about $18: https://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemid=10720003 This is also the same tool used on the Cayenne.

I see now. I tried the same before briefly and found the threaded stud somehow locks in place even after both nuts are removed. I'm also curious to know if the stud can be removed. I believe that threaded stud is press into the shifter handle while it sits inside the blue aluminum central housing. You might want to contact B&M and see if they can replace the bushing or even the entire shifter. I don't think this is going to be a DIY project.

Could be an old B&M unit:

Somewhat, but not earth-shattering better; these should be considered a "maintenance item" that needs to be checked and replaced as needed, like the water pumps.

Plus when you replace the housing, you get a new by-pass valve.

+1, a very common problem with these plastic housings. You may also have either a bad, pinched, or misaligned top O-ring seal as well.

That is exactly why Porsche moved away from the more stable five chain in favor of the three chain design.

What you are seeing is the hydraulic tensioners slowly pump up and clean out over time. Run the car for a bit (take it for a 15-20 min. drive so it is fully warmed up) and then recheck the deviation values when you get back.

Get the battery load tested to either identify it as a problem or eliminate it from consideration.

A lot of factors come into play on when to replace the clutch assembly. As most people do not know to compress the marcel spring between the clutch disc faces before attempting to measure the disc thickness for wear the way you were doing it in the photos, and little information is published on disc wear limits (but I will see if I can find something), disc face measurements can often be misleading. And, as strange as this may sound, we look at the pressure plate fingers and throw out bearing for signs of wear. Quite often, the fingers and/or the bearing show a lot of wear before the disc even begins to look poorly. And If you are going to replace the pressure plate because of finger wear, it makes no sense to reuse the worn disc. At the end of the day, a clutch kit does not cost that much, assuming the flywheel is still in good shape, and when doing an IMS you have already spend the time to get in there, so it makes sense (particularly financially if you are paying someone to do it) to reuse the clutch. Once the car is buttoned up, you really don't want to go back in to swap parts you could have replaced while it was apart. OK, I found some factory data on the disc face wear: But I would still look at the pressure plate fingers for wear, regardless of how the disc measures.

The instructions are ambiguous due to the same engine used in both the Boxster and 996. You want to lock Bank #1 (cylinders 1,2,3). The IMS tensioner is the same one indicated in the photo you included. A lot of people fab a second cam locking tool just to be safe, but it is not absolutely a requirement. If you completely remove the tensioners, do not mix them, they are not all the same. You should also replace the aluminum sealing ring on each tensioner released or removed to prevent future oil leaks.

Looking at your latest pictures, I would concur; and remember to only rotate the engine clockwise, never counter clockwise.