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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    http://www.knclub.ru...73405-p0336.pdf
  2. JFP in PA
    Actually, it often the other way around. There are more camshaft sensors than crank position sensors in these cars, which is why the aftermarket stock them. Besides which, a failing cam position sensor would throw codes, while a failing crank position sensor rarely does, it just shuts off the fuel pump because it thinks the engine is not turning over. Test the crank sensor.
  3. JFP in PA
    I think about the best you are going to find is just a wiring diagram, Porsche has never been really big on publishing "how it works" for any of their components, particularly their electronics.
  4. JFP in PA
    Re-flush the system. If there was any chance your previous work got any air into the ABS/PSM system, cycle the ABS pump and control network while flushing.
  5. JFP in PA
    Congratulations on the new family addition! :thumbup:
  6. JFP in PA
    I think your biggest issue is going to be the CAN bus system differences between the 2000 chassis and the 2002 engine and its DME. In 2000, CAN bus existed, but very little was communicating over it; by 2002, a lot was happening on the bus for the 7.8 DME, and that is one area where you are going to have a lot of compatibility issues. This will not be an easy swap without a lot work, including the differences in the fuel systems. You might want to contact a poster here named Todd Holyoak (called "tholyoak"), who has done this type of swap for more details on what you need to do.
  7. JFP in PA
    Disconnect all electrical power to it by unplugging it or pulling out fuses. You want to see if it is a source of high current draw while the car is running, which is difficult without very specific instrumentation, next best thing is to kill it electrically and see what happens.
  8. JFP in PA
    It is possible. You should have the people that are looking at the car now look it over for obvious problems and possibly even disconnect it from the electrical circuit for a day or two to see if there is any change.
  9. JFP in PA
    What oil is in it?
  10. JFP in PA
    P1117 and 1121 are both heater circuit faults for the sensors, and it is odd that you are getting them on both sides after doing related work. Check the resistance on both sensors by pulling the connector and measuring the resistance between pins 1 and 2 on each; you should see 1.8-2.5 ohms. If you don't, the sensor heaters are bad; but if you do, you have a wiring connection issue.
  11. JFP in PA
    Ahsai is right, don't go over pressuring these systems. If you suspect your have a leak up front, an excellent alternative is to add some Uview UV dye to the cooling system a few days before pulling the bumper, then when you do a black light will quickly show you where the leaks are: We use this stuff to find small or hard to locate leaks in the cooling system, and the dye will not bother anything.
  12. JFP in PA
    Temps are still a bit low. Normally, if you clear codes, the SAI takes a while to reset to "ready" status, so what you are seeing is unusual.
  13. JFP in PA
    I'd would run a leak down test on the cylinders in question; anything beyond 10% is problematic.
  14. JFP in PA
    Something is not right, once the engine is warmed up to a steady state, the oil should always be hotter than the coolant, which is why the car has an oil to coolant cooler system.
  15. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech! :welcome: The hose in the right-hand photo above is the vent for the battery. The missing part at the base of the headlight is for the headlight washer assembly (pops up when activated).
  16. JFP in PA
    Be glad they had one. The Autologic unit is one of the most capable aftermarket systems for European brands; unfortunately, it is also one of the most expensive as well. The base unit is north of $10K, fully loaded with all the modules to do Porsche's brings it in at over $60K, not including very stiff annual update contracts, which is why they are few and far between, enough so to be considered nearly non existent. They are also very weak on coverage for Asian brands, which are dominant in the aftermarket repair business. For that amount of money, you can lease a true PIWIS for several years. Dealerships (and shops) charge by time increment's; some dealers use 30 min. slices, others full hours only. Most shops work on 15 min. time intervals to keep prices down.
  17. JFP in PA
    This is a clear picture of what the terminal area of the starter looks like: The wire with the "hook" is the solenoid trigger wire.
  18. JFP in PA
    I'm afraid you are going to find that most of the back of the car is only available as one harness section. Unless you want to keep the car totally factory, you will need to cut, splice, and heat shrink wrap replacements for the burned sections.
  19. JFP in PA
    Porsche only made very large sections the main harness system as one piece, and those large sections tend to be very expensive as well as time consuming to replace. What problem(s) are you trying to solve by replacing it?
  20. JFP in PA
    Sorry, but I cannot see or tell anything from that photo................
  21. JFP in PA
    If you are not able to do it, that would be your next step.
  22. JFP in PA
    I would start with both a voltage drop and continuity (checking for shorts to ground) on each of the circuits (backup lights, top control module on cabriolets, seat and mirror memory control module, and outside mirrors) on that fuse. I would also consider individually testing each circuit for current draw. I would also immediately stop using any fuse rated higher than 7.5 amps until the problem is resolved; running higher rated fuses increases the chance of damaging the system further.
  23. JFP in PA
    I always get a chuckle out of people trying to save time by defeating the purpose of a tool. You might be surprised at how many cars we see flat bedded into the shop because someone tried to "save the time required to clean out" their Motive pressure tank. If you miss on keeping the fluid level up in the reservoir, which alone has to be more effort and time than cleaning the tank on the Motive unit, you are going to introduce air into your ABS/PSM control system, which requires the use of a PST II/PIWIS/Durametric system to get it out. While we do make a lot of money off other's mistakes, I still suggest you use the tool as it was designed. We have multiple Motive units in the shop; it takes about 5 min. to fully clean one after using it. The flat bed and shop time to fix it if you guess wrong cost a bit more. As I have never done what you are describing, I have no basis to answer your question about if pumping the pedal will empty the reservoir, but based upon the size of the system reservoir and the volume of fluid the clutch master pushes out per pump, I would guess that it would not empty it completely.
  24. JFP in PA
    This is correct following the wait and slowly releasing the pedal. Loren, I think I am having the same issues as Andy. These steps don't make sense to me . . . specifically pumping the clutch pedal when the bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder is OPEN. How do you NOT introduce air into the system on the return stroke of the clutch pedal? If you are using a power fill, the system is under pressure. So what is the point of pumping the pedal? Won't all the old fluid exit the system (assuming the clutch is fully depressed and held) just by the pressure of the power fill? Thank you. Sean Pumping the pedal while the system is under pressure and the bleeder is open moves the internals of the clutch master cylinder back and forth to clean out any residual fluid in the master while the pressure system keeps clean fluid flowing through. It is in the bleeding instructions found in the OEM service manuals for these cars.
  25. JFP in PA
    Could simply be a bad idler; it happens, we have seen bad ones right out of the box.
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