JFP in PA

With no electrical power, perhaps this would be a more appropriate way to go:

I've seen both race teams and DIY mechanics use the BendPak portable mid rise unit with great success. Big advantage is its swing arms to adjust to various cars like larger lifts and all kinds of adaptors for any project:

I would be concerned about a chain clamp damaging the pulley itself. The device RSS makes is nothing special, it grabs the pulley by two holes instead of the OEM tool's three. As long as the tool clears the center bolt, you should be good to go. Use the new pulley as a template to set up the hole spacing for the bolts.

Or, how about fabricating one out of some flat stock and two bolts: Should not take long or cost much, and appears to be what the pulley people are doing...........

Wrong pulley locking tool, you are thinking about this one:

The factory pulley locking tool is a 5/16 metal rod with a knob on the end: You can make your own from hardware bar stock.

Can't honestly say, I've never tried that. Why do you want to disable it?

It should be as the old version is no longer made, and Hickley's is the official Durametric rep in the UK.. The big difference is actually in the cable, which now carries its own firmware, making cloning a difficult process for the knock off artist. The old cable is also no longer compatible with software updates, which is another reason why buying a knock off is a bad idea, the diagnostic software it uses is now several years old and no longer supported by Durametric.

Or when you conveniently have it off for some other maintenance or repair. These belts are not that expensive, so replacing them while doing some other DIY project makes sense.

Nevermind Just found some info from a forum search. Also watch out for "Stuttgart Auto Werks" in LOS ALAMITOS CA 90720, same crew with a new name to protect the guilty...................

This is going to be quite an undertaking. The turbo has a lot of systems (true dry sump oil separator and tanks, intercoolers, special oil coolers, unique exhausts system, four wheel drive, etc.) that need to be fitted as they were never used in the C2 body. Some may require some extensive fabrication as the Turbo cars had more room than the C2 in the engine bay to stuff all this equipement into. I would suggest getting a look at an empty Turbo engine bay to get an idea of what you will need to do. Good luck!

When the car is throwing codes or has MIL lit, do not disconnect the battery, otherwise you will lose all the accumulated diagnostic data about what is going on. Get the car scanned first before disconnecting the battery. Thanks. This is just what I was after. As codes discussed above..... Contemplating getting a durametric........ However, they seem quite pricey and my friend who has a 996 who I could share with is selling it shortly due to another baby. I am certainly not interested in the fake route, and also want to ensure that I can run the latest version of the software. The only reason I have hesitated in buying is that the enthusiast package doesn't allow coding, but the professional is over twice the cost! Would you say that the enthusiast is ok for what I would need it for, and to just pay someone with professional if ever required (like retrofitting cruise control et al)? Where is the best place to find a genuine with 1 slot left? Does the price reduce significantly due to this? Have searched ebay for past couple of months but haven't come across one during this time period. Cheers The Durametric is a wise investment and will save you a lot of money over time. For most, the Enthusiast is more than enough. You can often find used units with multiple slots open at good prices, search around, they come up regularly. And use care buying one off flea bay, there are a lot of cheap clones of early units running around that cannot be upgraded, be sure you are getting a cable that is compatible with their Version 6 and later software.

I like to keep them 1 to 1 1/2 bars down from the full mark on the electronic level. Problem with the "full" bar is you can't see over it, so it is hard to see being over filled, which is particularly a problem on the cars without dipsticks.

Thanks both for the info here. I checked the oil level this morning - the electronic shows full, and the dipstick shows over the full line (where it is about 1.5mm over). My garage is just about level.... Could a very small difference here make that 1.5mm difference on the dipstick? Given that I plan to change the oil again in a few weeks once spin on received (where I wanted to give it a good flush out), is it ok to leave until then (Probably around 2-300 miles in the interim) or is 1.5mm significant enough to do something about it now? If so, I thought about dumping the oil in the filter housing, going for a drive and then doing it again? Afterall the difference must only be 200ml at the very most so doing it twice would prob drop it to one segment less than full. I would measure the exact amount removed and deduct from 8.4 initially added to hopefully get my perfect volume for next time. Also, just to confirm, when I installed the filter, I placed it into the housing and screwed it on rather than secure it onto car and then screw housing on. Is this ok? Cheers Dumping the oil filter is a great way to bring and over filled car back into the correct level, and can even be done multiple times if required.

When the car is throwing codes or has MIL lit, do not disconnect the battery, otherwise you will lose all the accumulated diagnostic data about what is going on. Get the car scanned first before disconnecting the battery.

Not at all unusual; there are a lot of ferrous components in these engine's, and they often generate a metallic grit so fine it can actually pass through many oil filters and continue to circulate. Magnets are your next line of defense to trap this grit.

+1. If you want to improve your chances of survival, consider adding a spin on oil filter as well, and perhaps adding a Filter Mag unit to the spin on. You would be amazed at what this will pickup and remove from the oil.

To Loren's point, your shop is swapping out parts at your expense hoping it will fix it, and not doing necessary diagnostics. This does not need expensive equipment, just a simple electrical multimeter capable of reading resistance and current in mA; a tool that should be in any technician's tool box. Before turning one bolt, they should have run current draw at the battery, and simple voltage drop tests, both of which take only a few min. to run and can both quickly eliminate components and isolate the issues. Time to go elsewhere...........

Again, if any of the lines on the window work, all should work unless somewhere in the window lines there is a break in the ribbon. The window grid is a simply DC heater tape with current flowing through it, it has a single electrical connection on each side. I would suggest you get a magnifying glass and closely examine the lines that are not heating, some where on them is a break in the tape. Thanks. I will take a closer look (no pun intended) and report back. :) I have also read you can further pin point the break in the line/ribbon using a multimeter, is this correct? Correct.

LN used to show a picture of both flanges on their website, the differnece is quite noticable.

Check your sway bar mounts and end links.

Again, if any of the lines on the window work, all should work unless somewhere in the window lines there is a break in the ribbon. The window grid is a simply DC heater tape with current flowing through it, it has a single electrical connection on each side. I would suggest you get a magnifying glass and closely examine the lines that are not heating, some where on them is a break in the tape.

There has been some supposition that may be the case, but I have not seen any definitive proof of that one way or the other.

Won't do you much good as 2000 and 2001 M96 engine's can go either way, some were single row, others dual row. Unfortunately, there is no known way to tell which is in the engine without taking it apart and looking. A bit late getting back to you J-F on your response (merci!) but my car is an early production (Aug 99) 2000, so I feel quite comfortable it is a dual-row. If not, I would be extremely surprised. At any rate, excellent tip on these wear pads, something else to me mindfull of in the not-so-far term. Salut! From experience, we have that build date does not seem to come into play on which type of bearing is in the car. We have seen early 2000 cars with single rows in them, and late 2001 cars with dual rows. That is why you need to look before buying parts.

They move the wheels outward slightly, usually to accommodate larger wheels and tires clearance around suspension components, or simply to get a "look".