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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    If you are not able to do it, that would be your next step.
  2. JFP in PA
    I would start with both a voltage drop and continuity (checking for shorts to ground) on each of the circuits (backup lights, top control module on cabriolets, seat and mirror memory control module, and outside mirrors) on that fuse. I would also consider individually testing each circuit for current draw. I would also immediately stop using any fuse rated higher than 7.5 amps until the problem is resolved; running higher rated fuses increases the chance of damaging the system further.
  3. JFP in PA
    I always get a chuckle out of people trying to save time by defeating the purpose of a tool. You might be surprised at how many cars we see flat bedded into the shop because someone tried to "save the time required to clean out" their Motive pressure tank. If you miss on keeping the fluid level up in the reservoir, which alone has to be more effort and time than cleaning the tank on the Motive unit, you are going to introduce air into your ABS/PSM control system, which requires the use of a PST II/PIWIS/Durametric system to get it out. While we do make a lot of money off other's mistakes, I still suggest you use the tool as it was designed. We have multiple Motive units in the shop; it takes about 5 min. to fully clean one after using it. The flat bed and shop time to fix it if you guess wrong cost a bit more. As I have never done what you are describing, I have no basis to answer your question about if pumping the pedal will empty the reservoir, but based upon the size of the system reservoir and the volume of fluid the clutch master pushes out per pump, I would guess that it would not empty it completely.
  4. JFP in PA
    This is correct following the wait and slowly releasing the pedal. Loren, I think I am having the same issues as Andy. These steps don't make sense to me . . . specifically pumping the clutch pedal when the bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder is OPEN. How do you NOT introduce air into the system on the return stroke of the clutch pedal? If you are using a power fill, the system is under pressure. So what is the point of pumping the pedal? Won't all the old fluid exit the system (assuming the clutch is fully depressed and held) just by the pressure of the power fill? Thank you. Sean Pumping the pedal while the system is under pressure and the bleeder is open moves the internals of the clutch master cylinder back and forth to clean out any residual fluid in the master while the pressure system keeps clean fluid flowing through. It is in the bleeding instructions found in the OEM service manuals for these cars.
  5. JFP in PA
    Could simply be a bad idler; it happens, we have seen bad ones right out of the box.
  6. JFP in PA
    It does sound like a single cylinder dead miss (often a coil pack), only problem is without the codes you don't know which cylinder and the coil packs are not cheap. Is there an auto parts store nearby (Autozone, etc.) that loans or rents diagnostic tools? Just about any OBD II scanner can pick up cylinder misfire codes............
  7. JFP in PA
    The problem is a simple one, you need a key that the car's security system recognizes, which means using a PST II or PIWIS to accomplish. The key is going to set you back over $100 alone, cutting it and coding the car to accept it is all labor. Right, I understand this. Knowing this helps me how? More specifically, where can I get a key other than dealership? And what details should I look for in securing a key? Who can cut and program it besides a dealer? Indies? Thanks Simple: Several places (including online houses like Pelican or Suncoast) sell the key blanks and heads, but very few lock smiths have the correct equipment to cut a Porsche key (they use a unique system), and I also doubt any Indie would have that equipment either, so you are pretty much stuck with the dealer network. Anyone with either a PST II or PIWIS can do the coding once you have the key. While PST II's are common with serious Indie shops, very few would have a PIWIS system; expect to be billed for about an hour of shop time for the coding at the local prevailing labor rate. If you shop around, you can probably get everything for between $200 - 300 all in.
  8. JFP in PA
    The voltage output could be low if there is high resistance in the larger cables. Thank you JFP Would you tell me please if i have access to this bigger cables and where they are? Thankx I talking about the large cables that run from the battery to the starter and the alternator. They can be tested in place by measuring the voltage drop across the various sections; you should not see more than 0.5V drop, if you do, the internal resistance is too high and that cable section needs to be replaced. This is a very common problem in the 996 cars.
  9. JFP in PA
    The voltage output could be low if there is high resistance in the larger cables.
  10. JFP in PA
    The problem is a simple one, you need a key that the car's security system recognizes, which means using a PST II or PIWIS to accomplish. The key is going to set you back over $100 alone, cutting it and coding the car to accept it is all labor.
  11. JFP in PA
    Running it without an exhaust system, but with the headers in place, will not harm anything other than your hearing. To get oil pressure, pull the fuel pump relay and crank the engine until oil pressure comes up on the dash. Plug the relay back in and you are good to go.
  12. JFP in PA
    Early Boxsters (through year 2000) had a problem with flexible lines on the fuel pump assembly moving and blocking the lower one way flapper valve at the base of the filler neck (Loren's TSB). When this happens, you get exactly what you are describing (won't fill, no codes). The fix is to drain down the tank, pull the fuel pump and tie back the lines to keep them away from the lower flapper. Time consuming, but not an expensive fix. One of the reasons I think that this is your issue is the lack of codes; if your carbon canister (EVAP) was truly plugged, you would be throwing multiple codes. The EVAP system is also not passive, it involves multiple sensors and controls:
  13. JFP in PA
    Year and model of the car, as well as any codes thrown?
  14. JFP in PA
    If you want to do something positive for the cooling system, install a 160F stat.
  15. JFP in PA
    Problem is that there are multiple items on that circuit, and one of them is overloading the fuse. To resolve that, you need to test each device on the fuse circuit individually to isolate the problem(s).
  16. JFP in PA
    Wayne is correct. The biggest problem with the temp display in these cars is that they are both non linear and woefully inaccurate; which makes them little more than "an idiot light that moves". It is not at all unusual to measure actual coolant temps of 205-210F when the needle is sitting at 180.
  17. JFP in PA
    I see no reason why the OPC would object to the spin on filter, other than they may not have a replacement filter on hand, or know which size to use. If you supplied the filter, it would supplant any objections, and you would have control of the quality of filter used. Some dealers here actually carry the correct filter in stock as many of their customers use them. Not to start an "oil war", but if they are using Castrol rather than Mobil 1, I'd let them do just that. :thumbup: The OPC should have your complete records on their computer, and should be able to update your records for you. You may look at it as being "OCD", but maintaining records and being specific about how your car is cared for will pay you back when you go to sell it.
  18. JFP in PA
    The casting boss behind the pulley that accepts the pin is designed to hold the engine at TDC while doing cam work, etc.; not to remove the pulley. If it was meant to hold the pulley while removing the center bolt, they would not have taken the time or trouble to develop and manufacture the other tool. Some people have gotten away using it to hold the pulley while taking out the bolt, but I would not recommend it.
  19. JFP in PA
    Your friend should also be aware that these things are notorious for leave quite a bit of old, dirty oil behind as well.
  20. JFP in PA
    No need to get fancy or buy a special tool for this job. When I installed mine, I just used a bolt that fit through the pulley and into the hole in the block. The (relatively) difficult, time-consuming part is shaving off the timing boss... I'm just worried about damaging the engine casting by doing that. My pulley bolt is original and I'm a bit worried about the potential force it may need to break it loose. How tight was yours? It should be torqued to 37 ft. lbs., + 90 degrees, and may have a thread locker on it as well.
  21. JFP in PA
    That is a very bad idea for multiple reasons. Not all the car have a dipstick. Of those that do, you would be surprised at how many people try this, only to find they cannot pull the hose back out as it has become caught on one of the many sharp edged items in the sump. When that happens, you have to remove the sump cover to get the hose out. The safe way to remove excess oil is emptying the filter housing.
  22. JFP in PA
    Try pressing down on it slightly while turning.
  23. JFP in PA
    As a general proposition, lifts are supposed to keep cars from tilting when being picked up. As someone that spends most of his day under a car on a lift, the idea of one that purposely tilts the car leaves me more than a little bit cold.......... Hi John I hear you, and thank you for your advice. I'm a pen pusher...... what i would give to wrench all day long! I have been doing some more digging and have found this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOBILE-SCISSOR-CAR-LIFT-VEHICLE-LIFT-not-2-post-lift-BRAND-NEW-/281329017781?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item41808423b5 It doesn't need electricity and uses a foot pump or air...... I just need to find out how big and heavy it is now! Thoughts? Regards Richard That would be preferable to the one that tilts. My only question would be how long does it take to pump up with a good sized vehicle on it.
  24. JFP in PA
    That is the ABS/PSM pump and control system for your anti lock brakes and stability management systems. Replacing the leaking lines may not be your biggest issue, changing them out will introduce air into the controls system which then requires either a PIWIS or Durametric system to correctly bleed.
  25. JFP in PA
    As a general proposition, lifts are supposed to keep cars from tilting when being picked up. As someone that spends most of his day under a car on a lift, the idea of one that purposely tilts the car leaves me more than a little bit cold..........
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