JFP in PA

Yes, some of them you can even trim cut with cutting pliers as is needed. Not a soft as lead, but easier to come by in this environmentally friendly world. You can also get the them pre segmented in quarter Oz. increments which makes them easier to cut:

Necessity has always been the motherhood of invention, so congratulations on inventing yet another new Porsche tool! :thumbup:

Congratulations! Now try to not get too out of control......................... :eek:

Unfortunately, 2005 was a transitional year for Porsche and the IMS; some of the car carry the replaceable single row bearing, others carry the oversized last design that cannot be changed without taking the engine apart. And the only way to know which is in the car is to take it apart and look.

Ignition switch electrical gremlin's are legion with these cars, to the point that most shops stock replacements. Fortunately, the switch is cheap and is a DIY project. Check the archives, there have been multiple write ups on the subject, including this one: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/24-996-ignition-switch-replace-just-the-switch-with-pictures/

A little more complicated: you need to prep the engine as though you were pulling the IMS (engine locked at TDC, Cams locked down, tensioners removed), then the cover comes off and a pick is used to pull the rear seal.

We do not use them, but simply remove the rear seal on the OEM bearing. We have more than a few customers running this way with no issues.

Not really correct; DOT and TUV approved lines have been around for a very long time, and they do not have to be plastic coated to be DOT. Goodridge makes lines with and without coatings, both are DOT/TUV, and both have tags on them for the approvals.

Normally, we let pressure tests sit for at least 15 to 30 min. to see if they hold pressure. From your test description, you are probably fine. Not surprised you found enough stuff in the radiators for your own National Geographic special; that is a common thing with these cars. I don't remember how many miles are on the car, but the water pumps in these vehicles should be considered a maintenance item that needs to be periodically replaced.

Yes, as little as possible is always the best path. Plexus (the plastic window cleaner) on a buffer is often enough, or one of the polishes ( I like Griot's fine glass polish and a random orbital buffer). 3M's synthetic cleaner wax also does a good job on lights that are not too far gone. Stay away from the kits that start with sandpaper, that is usually where DIY's go bad and entire headlights end up being replaced.......

Your higher end wheel makers like HRE, Champion and Forgeline do, and I am sure there are others as well.

Most people seem to confuse HID light colors with output. Xenon bulbs come in a of colors (measured as their degree K temperature) and range from white to blue and even purple. You might want to visit the web site of xenon bulb makers as the often have color chart comparisons to help you decide which color is best for your application. You may want to take a close look out your outer lens as well, it may need polishing to help reduce the xenon beam dispersal.

Full tank of fuel mixed with StaBil fuel stabilizer (run or drive the car for about 15 min. after adding the StaBil to get it circulated), air the tires up to around 40-45 PSIG, change the oil and filter, make sure the battery is full (distilled water), clean the car inside and out, put the car on a quality battery maintainer (Ctek), cover it with a dust cover and let it sit on the ground (you should never store one of these cars with the suspension hanging, very bad for the struts). Chock the wheels and leave the car in neural with the parking brake off. Have a safe deployment. Awesome reply, thank you very much, I really appreciate it. Doesn't sound like it will be too much fuss. Is there a certain motor oil thats preferred for the 996 TT? The oil was just changed at the dealership where I bought it a few weeks ago, not sure what kind of oil they used besides Mobil. It wasn't a Porsche dealership but instead a Land Rover/Jaguar. Hopefully the mechanics did their homework and put the right stuff in, I imagine they did but you never know. If you do a quick search here, you will find the complete list of oils that Porsche has approved. As I am sure you are pretty busy, I've attached a link for you: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?app=downloads&module=display&section=download&do=confirm_download&id=357 The reason you want fresh oil is that normal contaminants found in oil form acids that accelerate the break down of the remaining oil and attack metal surfaces inside the engine. Fresh oil is always best going into storage.

Full tank of fuel mixed with StaBil fuel stabilizer (run or drive the car for about 15 min. after adding the StaBil to get it circulated), air the tires up to around 40-45 PSIG, change the oil and filter, make sure the battery is full (distilled water), clean the car inside and out, put the car on a quality battery maintainer (Ctek), cover it with a dust cover and let it sit on the ground (you should never store one of these cars with the suspension hanging, very bad for the struts). Chock the wheels and leave the car in neural with the parking brake off. Have a safe deployment.

Beautiful, neat and organized. You can work on my car (big honor). I go into shops and there is sh-t thrown all over the place which means I am OTD (out the door). I do not understand how people can work under those conditions. JFP. Is there an easy way to convert these center lock hubs to regular bolt holes? Some sort of adapter? I too hate messy shops, and greasy tools. OK, correction, on your car, you will need the following: Here is a listing and cost of the Porsche OEM parts required for the 5 lug conversion : Front: 997-341-605-01 WHEEL HUB, 2 required, $326.80ea (Suncoast) 999-053-054-06 WHEEL BEARING, 2 required, $88.70ea (Suncoast) Rear: 997-331-605-00 WHEEL HUB, 2 required, $ 359.32ea (Suncoast) 999-053-055-02 WHEEL BEARING, 2 required, $113.49ea (Suncoast) Additional Parts: Porsche Lug bolts, 20 required, $7.43ea (Suncoast)

Tell me about it..................

Wear pad wear is obvious; you get weird deviation values and plastic bits in the oil. The hydraulic tensioners have been updated a couple times since the M96 was introduced, but customers often balk at spending hundreds of dollars on parts alone to replace them. When we get a car in with obviously bad wear pads, we always quote on replacing the tensioners at the same time, that way the customer gets the car back as it should have been new.

Jeez.............there goes the neighborhood! :eek: We'll be watching for you the six o'clock news................. Crazy doctor terrorizes neighborhood in red sports car that looks suspiciously like a Volkswagen beetle with holes in it's side. You can identify the car by the Grateful Dead sticker in the rear window. Considered armed and dangerous. :help: Couple of people a selling them, 3R Racing ($350 list) for example. Obviously, if you are careful, you can avoid PCCB damage without one, but they do make wheel changes a lot easier for one person if you use one: JFP, the Suncoast part looks like it also functions as a hub puller? http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKUGT3CL.html?Category_Code=991TurboCHASSISACC It just looks like a fancy alignment tool to me. I think the center bolt on the Suncoast tool is to lock it in place from the outside. The 3R tool sometimes needs an assist from a rubber strap wrench to come off, with the Suncoast tool, you would simply loosen the center bolt to get the same results:

Jeez.............there goes the neighborhood! :eek: We'll be watching for you the six o'clock news................. Crazy doctor terrorizes neighborhood in red sports car that looks suspiciously like a Volkswagen beetle with holes in it's side. You can identify the car by the Grateful Dead sticker in the rear window. Considered armed and dangerous. :help: Couple of people a selling them, 3R Racing ($350 list) for example. Obviously, if you are careful, you can avoid PCCB damage without one, but they do make wheel changes a lot easier for one person if you use one:

Both of these codes can be thrown because the factory radio and /or PCM were removed and the MOST bus was not reset to reflect their absence.

Jeez.............there goes the neighborhood! :eek: We'll be watching for you the six o'clock news.................

For most occasional "DIY" use, Snap-On quality and price may be overkill, but in a shop you can justify owning between $5 and $10K worth of top line torque measuring devices. We use the Hell out of our equipment, and every time I have sent them back for calibration checks, they come back "no adjustment needed".

Not a fan of anything that puts a phone in the driver's view.

JFP, Snap On makes several 3/4 drive torque wrenches. Is there any particular model you like?? You didn't happen to take a look under it's back side? Still wondering how I'm going to jack it's tail up to get jack stands under it. What color was the one you drove and what do you think, not that I can change anything. At this point the specs are locked in. Absolute power corrupts absolutely. :drive: Car was Rhodium Silver Metallic Turbo "S", black leather with white stitching. Very attractive looking combination. I also like the dash layout and smaller sized steering wheel, makes getting in and out a bit easier. I actually had the car up on a lift; still uses side jack points (I have never been one for trying to lift the entire rear end by one jack point). When I had it up in the air is when I noticed the wet sump, which was confirmed by the Porsche zone rep that was driving the car. I prefer the Snap On QD4R400 80-400 ft. lb. unit, used one for years and as with other Snap On's holds its accuracy well: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=640967&group_ID=675227&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog This Snap-On torque wrench is only rated for 400 ft-lbs (542 Nm) whereas the tightening spec for the center lock wheels is 443 ft-lbs (600 Nm). Assume you feel this is adequate until you can get to a Porsche dealer? No, until I get out my QD5R1000, which can take them to 1,000 ft.-lbs. if required................... :D In reality, the difference between 400 and 443 is pretty insignificant, while the price for the QD5R1000 is over $2K, and the QD4R400 is only about $800. You could also jump for a TQR600E which will take you to 600, but at a price as well. You will also find most dealers do not have wrenches going that high either.

I would search around for a small, possibly used unit as these can easily cost a couple grand new.