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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    You have to remember the basis of the DIY psyche: "If one is good, and two is better, then forty seven has got to be just right!" I'm surprised that you don't see more cases of people marinating their plugs in it over night before installing them.........
  2. JFP in PA
    I thought Porsche issued a tech bulletin advising not to use anti seize on "modern" plugs. IIUC modern heavy nickel-plating on the plugs prevents seizing in the aluminum threads as well as the old anti seize compound, while ensuring a great ground for the spark. Porsche did come out with some information concerning the use of anti seize, which specifically addressed compounds that may not be electrically conductive. Most anti seize compounds you will find are metal paste based, and are both thermally and electrically conductive. As we regularly see cars that the plugs have been in for 10 or even 12 years, a little anti seize is a good insurance policy against them pulling the treads out of the head next time out. And to put another perennial "old wives" tale' to bed, anti seize does not cause plugs to loosen and fall out, but improper installation does. Use a torque wrench.
  3. JFP in PA
    Beru was the factory plug. Changing the plug is pretty straight forward; we like to use both anti seize on the threads and a dab of dielectric grease on the plug insulator. Be sure to torque to specs, and inspect the plug tubes for any oil leakage while you are in there.
  4. JFP in PA
    Remove the air filter housing if it is in the way.
  5. JFP in PA
    No, TPMS did not become a federally mandated system until 2007 model year, but it could have been an option on a 2006. You can also purchase aftermarket sensors for less than half the price of Porsche units, and they are fully compatible.
  6. JFP in PA
    Try pressure testing the system at the tank, we occasionally find tanks with small cracks that lead to condensation in the trunk area. If the system is closed and tight, there should be no condensation.
  7. JFP in PA
    Supposedly possible on '03's and some '04's, but apparently does not work on later models due to software changes. I've never tired it.
  8. JFP in PA
    The AOS is more than just an "emissions device", it provides a consistent low vacuum level (around 5 inches of water) inside the crankcase that serves multiple functions. First, and perhaps most importantly, it relieves any blow-by pressure build up which can keep low tension piston rings from sealing properly, which will cause loss of power and oil consumption. In addition, the vacuum in the sump lowers the boiling point for any water or fuel accumulated there, allowing it to be converted to vapor and pulled into the intake system to be burned off before it can build up to levels that cause problems. These engines also use silicone type sealants on flat machined surfaces on the sump cover and cam covers, as well as very low tension rear main seals, particularly the newer style PTFE seal, which can start leaking if there is any pressure build up over time. You can also blow out the cam plugs on the cam covers as well (they are just a friction fit plug). How quickly and to what level these problems will happen is dependent upon the miles on the engine, ambient weather conditions, and how the car is being used. Just leaving the vacuum source line disconnected can help relieve some of the pressure build up, but not in all cases, plus it does nothing to address the ring seal problem and is particularly bad when it comes to build up of water and fuel in the oils.
  9. JFP in PA
    Not necessarily a great idea; these are low tension piston ring engines, and killing all the vacuum to the crankcase can lead to other issues, such as burning oil and blowing out oil seals and gaskets.
  10. JFP in PA
    Not really, you have to look at it, often with small mirror stuck down inside the canister. [flame_on] Ok, well being an engineer, I just have to ask....."And what problem were they trying to 'fix' that the full flow spin on filters didn't have?" This sort of engineering drives me nuts.....and on a 55K car no less.... [/flame_on] grrrrrrr Some like to say that the cartridge style filter is more recyclable than the spin on, but that is not really true because the spin on units can also be recycled as well, you are just recovering two streams (media and metal case) rather than one with the cartridge type. I think the bigger issue here is that these engine's are very debris sensitive, and the spin on offers both finer media and full flow protection. A secondary advantage of the spin on is that it can also easily run a FilterMag unit, which turns the entire metal housing into a magnet to trap ferrous debris, including the stuff so small that it would normally pass through the filter itself.
  11. JFP in PA
    Not really, you have to look at it, often with small mirror stuck down inside the canister.
  12. JFP in PA
    Thanks JFP, out in the desert rancho mirage 85-112 daily Then definitely go to a 10W-40, like Castrol Edge with Syntec Technology; I'll bet you see a change in your oil pressure right away.
  13. JFP in PA
    Not the type used by the LN adaptor (Wix/NAPA Gold), they are "full flow", which means no internal bypass valve is in the filter, so you get 100% filtration at all times.
  14. JFP in PA
    I would keep it off the road until it is fixed. When the AOS fails catastrophically , they can suck in enough oil to hydro lock the engine and destroy it. Not worth the risk.............
  15. JFP in PA
    Ohhh, I didn't know that...Is this something that happens 'often'? Should this be a maintenance item? My boxster has 30K miles on it... In a word, yes. Worst part about it is that you don't know it is happening until you take the filter off and look at the valve (in is in the bottom of the plastic housing) and see it is stuck open. Most people don't do this, as they don't even know it is there, or for how long it has been allowing unfiltered oil to circulate. The valve itself is a plastic device with a spring to operate it, and it sits in the very bottom of the OEM plastic housing. When the valve sticks, you typically end up buy a new housing, which ain't cheap either, only to have the new one eventually do the same thing. We became aware of the problem because we do a fair number of oil changes and always clean out and check the plastic housing for cracks, etc.
  16. JFP in PA
    Considering the milage on the car, I would try a higher weight oil. You did not say what climate you are in, but if it is seasonal, I would go with a 5W-40 from Castrol or Joe Gibbs; if you live in an area that is warm, I would consider a similar 10W-40.
  17. JFP in PA
    Thanks for all the replies. Found a Mahle at a local store so I'll go with that since it is OEM. While I like the spin on conversion, the extra $s of the conversion kit is not really saving me anything, plus having to get a can opener to inspect the filter makes no sense since the oem cartridge arrangement already allows for inspection.....the dreaded IMS bearing fail....(don't think that is applicable to 1997s tho....) The spin on option starts to make a lot more sense when you realize how prone these cars are to having the bypass valve in the bottom of the canister stick open and pass totally unfiltered oil back into the engine. The spin on will not permit that as it is a "full flow" design which filters all the oil all of the time.
  18. JFP in PA
    The sensor could be going south. What oil are you running in the engine?
  19. JFP in PA
    Can the system be deactivated? The answer is yes, but no dealer and most independent's will not do it for multiple reasons. First, it is a federally mandated safety system, so if it is deactivated, the car won't pass inspection in most states. Secondly, there is a huge potential liability issue for anyone that does disable it. If the car was subsequently in an accident with serious injuries, or worse, a sharp lawyer would pick up on the fact that it had been disabled and come after whoever did it. So no one wants to touch the hot stove in fear of getting burned. As pointed out, one or more of your wheel sensors has probably had the battery go dead. If you search around, there have been several threads posted about cheap aftermarket sensors that can be substituted for the over priced Porsche units.
  20. JFP in PA
    From the manual: PDK transmission oil - approx. 3.12 quarts / 2.95 liters ATF transmission oil Mobilube PTX Formula A (SAE 75W-90) GL 4.5 - change at 120K miles or 12 years PDK clutch oil - approx. 5.49 quarts / 5.2 liters Pentosin Gear Oil FFL 3 - change at 60 K miles or 6 years The following procedure is from the 2009 Technik Service information book: Oil filling The correct hydraulic oil level is important for operating the transmission without running into problems. The following preconditions must be met in order to check or correct the oil level: • Engine must be idling • Vehicle must be horizontal in both longitudinal and transverse axis • Hydraulic oil temperature between 86° F. and 104° F. (30° C and 40° C) • Selector-lever position “P” • Clutch cooling volume flow must be switched off (using PIWIS Tester in Oil fill mode) • Retain the described states for approx. 1 minute to allow the oil to settle • Open screw plug on oil overflow bore and collect emerging oil until only drops of oil are emerging • Once there is no more oil emerging, top up the clutch fluid until oil emerges at the oil overflow bore • To avoid damaging the clutches, the procedure must be completed within 5 minutes (PIWIS Tester exits Oil fill mode automatically after 5 minutes) The correct oil level is also important to avoid damaging the gear wheels in the transmission. There is also an overflow bore for this, which is located on the opposite side. The oil level can be checked in the usual way here.
  21. JFP in PA
    Not really, if the oil cap is difficult to get off, the vacuum level is too high because the AOS has failed.
  22. JFP in PA
    I'll bet you are glad it is all done, now enjoy those summer roads.................. :thumbup:
  23. JFP in PA
    Check the car's AOS system. Easiest way is to try to remove the oil fill cap in the rear boot while the engine idles; if it comes off reasonably easy, you are fine. But if it is a bear to get off, the AOS needs to be replaced.
  24. JFP in PA
    I would be concerned about the cat it self considering your comment about the track. At this juncture, I would be looking at the performance of the pre and post cat O2 sensors, looking for how they cycle (or fail to). You could have a cat going out, or a bad O2 sensor, you need to diagnose which one is the correct issue before spending a lot of money. The following charts are for a Boxster, but the operational theory is the same for your Turbo:
  25. JFP in PA
    I would have; the clutch oil will have the most crud in it, and see the worst degradation from heat exposure. That is why the factory suggests changing it twice in the same time/mileage frame the gear box oil is changed only once in. If you were concerned about break-in debris in the oil, I would have done both, particularly as at this time, only the dealers have the correct system (PIWIS) to do the clutch oil. The gearbox oil can be changed by any competent shop or indie as it does not need the PIWIS.
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