JFP in PA

Fan speed is controlled by a simple resistor in the fan motor circuit at the fan itself, I would start there. If you have acces to the Durametric software, it can trigger the fan speeds as well.

Which probably indicates a problem with the steering angle sensor itself, or communication with the control module. Start by checking fuse 53 (5A) in left dash fuse box. If that is good, try this: STEERING-ANGLE SENSOR CAUTION: The steering-angle sensor must always be initialized 'control lamp on' whenever the battery terminal is disconnected. Diagnostic conditions  Ignition on  Internal level control module function test Possible cause of fault  Initialization/calibration not performed (no display/no or incorrect basic setting/adaptation)  Mechanical fault  The signal received from the control module (level control) via the CAN drive does not correspond to the expected signal (implausible signal)  CAN drive faulty (no signal/communication)  Steering-angle sensor faulty Affected pins Level control module, plug A:  Pin 61 'CAN drive (high)'  Pin 81 'CAN drive (low)' DIAGNOSIS/TROUBLESHOOTING Initializing The steering-angle sensor in Cayenne must be initialized after the following work is carried out:  Whenever the power supply is interrupted (NRA control lamp on).  The steering-angle sensor must be calibrated after all work on the running gear. NOTE: Calibration of the steering-angle sensor must be performed on a measuring platform. First, the level control module must be coded successfully and the steering-angle sensor must be initialized. The steering-angle sensor must be calibrated after work has been carried out on the running gear in the area of the front axle. DIAGNOSIS/TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE 1. Initialize steering-angle sensor  Switch on ignition.  Position wheels straight ahead.  From the straight-ahead position, turn the steering wheel approx. '15°' to the left and '15°' to the right (past the straight-ahead position).  Drive the vehicle straight ahead at a speed of '> 4 km/h for at least 1 second IF DISPLAY OK After successful initialization, the stored fault code is erased from the fault memory and the NRA control lamp goes out. IF NOT OK go to step 2 2. Check steeringangle sensor calibration using 9588 Porsche System Tester II  Running gear set according to Porsche specifications.  Wheels in straight-ahead position and steering wheel horizontal.  Steering wheel may be turned by max. '± 2.0°' from the horizontal position for driving straight ahead. IF DISPLAY OK After successful calibration, the stored fault code is erased from the fault memory. IF NOT OK go to step 3 3. Mechanical fault Examine moving parts for damage and check mobility. IF DISPLAY OK go to step 4 IF NOT OK The steering-angle sensor is integrated into the steering column switch and must be replaced along with this if its functionality is mechanically impaired. 4. Read out steering column switch control module, fault memory and check circuit for short or open circuit  Eliminate faults in accordance with 'Diagnosis/troubleshooting' for steering column switch control module. If electric circuit is OK go to Step 5 IF NOT OK Repair wiring harness circuit. 5. Check CAN drive Localize faults in accordance with CHECKING INSTRUCTIONS/CAN DATABUS If CAN drive is OK go to step 6 IF NOT OK repair wiring harness. 6. Replace steering-angle sensor The steering-angle sensor can only be replaced together with the steering column switch. IF NOT OK go to step 7 7. Replace level control module

Possible bad electrical section of ignition switch.

OK, then let's look at the rest: P0491 Secondary Air Injection System, Bank 1 - Insufficient Flow P0492 Secondary Air Injection System, Bank 2 - Insufficient Flow Possible cause of fault - Electrical fault in power supply or line between relay and secondary air injection pump - Secondary air injection pump relay mechanically faulty - Mechanical fault in electrical secondary air valve - Pneumatic secondary air valve faulty/sluggish - Electrical fault in secondary air injection pump - Mechanical fault in secondary air injection pump or secondary air injection pump blocked - Vacuum system leaking - Air hose to secondary air injection pump slipped off or constricted P1325 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 2 – Signal Implausible P1341 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 1 - Signal Implausible Possible cause of fault Camshaft does not reach early or late position ♦ Dirt in system ♦ Solenoid hydraulic valve mechanically blocked ♦ Wiring fault

Welcome to RennTech With a mix of codes this odd, I would clear them all and see what comes back, if anything.

As a general observation, wind noise is one of the least problems; vastly more are tire harmonics and drive line sounds. You could find a local shop that has what is known as an "electronic ear", which is a set of wireless microphones that can be mounted anywhere on the vehicle to try and isolate noise.

A photo would be very helpful.

It is not at all unusual for most of the highway noise in these cars to be related to the tires.

A lot, for a simple reason: All HID headlight cars made in Europe are required to have an automatic headlight leveling system that detects when the car's riding attitude has changed (like if someone is sitting the back seat, or some cargo is in a normally empty rear trunk) and automatically changes the level of the headlight beam's upper cut off to prevent blinding oncoming drivers. All Porsche's with factory installed Litronic headlights have this feature, and it is a common source of headlight related error codes when the system loses one or more of the sensors (there is one at each wheel). The system is routed through the DME and the "on the fly" adjustments are usually subtle enough that the driver does not even notice it during normal driving, other than the headlight beams remain even and at the same level, regardless of what the car is doing at the time. You mentioned you have a code showing, what is that code?

That is the headlight level sensor for the Litronic system: Headlight level sensor @ Sunset Porsche

19" should fit, assuming the tire size is not excessive. As for the speed sensors, they should work fine, but will only be accurate if the 19" wheel/tire combination has the same rolling circumference as the current tires.

I think at this juncture, and photo would be very helpful...............

Unfortunately, Porsche never published internal specs for these engines, primarily because they did not want them serviced in the field. Probably your best potential source is someone like Jake Raby, who along with building some of the most powerful versions of these engines, is running a school to teach proper engine assembly, has published both DVD and printed matter on the subject of engine assembly. A lot of us out here in the real world have had to learn a lot of hard lessons on how to care for these engines through trial and error because there is no technical support available from Porsche; even the dealers do not attempt to do internal engine repairs, they get a car with bad valve guides, the owner gets a factory reman head.

Possible........

The immobilizer, what you call drive block, shuts off power to the ignition and fuel systems when it is working properly. That said, because of its location (under the driver's seat), it is very susceptible to being flooded when the car's drains plug up, which shorts out the system and can cause other issues. I would pull the unit, open it up and look for signs of water damage. These can sometimes be repaired but are often toast when this happens. Good luck.

I would also look under the rear of the car to see if one of the axles has become disconnected. What you described sounds like what happens when the bolts back out of the axle flange.

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Get the car scanned with a Porsche specific diagnostic tool which can see Tiptronic faults. It may be something small like a single solenoid had failed, but with out diagnostics you are guessing in the dark.

I seriously doubt 16 inch wheel will clear the brake calipers and rotors on the car.

Under the driver’s seat.

They get scattered all over the cooling system. Best way we have found to get some of them out is to flush the cooling system components backwards from the normal flow path with copious amounts of clear water. This will still not get every last one as some of them get wedged in tight passage areas and don’t want to come out. Whatever you do, DO NOT apply full water line pressure to the system, it is designed for less than 20 psig pressures and will not be happy if you hit it with 60-90 psig line pressure.

If that is the case, you got lucky. 😉

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That bearing is decidedly on its way out, small amounts of ferrous particulate indicate it was already on its way to failure. If you have not already pulled the sump cover in preparation to do the retrofit, I would do so now. You will be looking for similar fine ferrous grit in the sump. If you find none, you are golden, but if you find it there, it is everywhere inside the engine.

You can do the IMS with the heads off; most problems that arise during DIY IMS retrofits involve the cams jumping time, which could not happen in your case.