JFP in PA

First of all, a PPI has to be independent of the seller, it is your last chance to catch anything before spending your money. A PPI by the selling dealer is never a good idea. Secondly, it is not unknown for a seller to take some remedial action on PPI "deduct" items. If the problems are correctly fixed, it is a good thing. But it is also possible to hide issues like oil leaks by cleaning the engine and using heavier weigh oils to slow the leak down, or short filling the sump to help hide it. The leak would appear fixed, but is really not. When looking for someone to do a PPI on your behalf, check sources like your local PCA chapter for resources in your area.

Please do not start a second thread when you already have one open on the exact same subject (http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/47131-00-boxster-27-liter-need-help-p1341-codes/), it is against the forum guidelines you agreed to when you joined RennTech. As noted elsewhere, as a matter of policy, we do not change any parts that have not been demonstrated to be defective. That is what diagnostic procedures are for. As noted earlier, the actuators and solenoids can be individually tested to verify function, and as they are like a light bulb and either work or they don't, I would not change them without reason. As for replacing proven defective parts with used units; again, we would not go there as there are just too many downsides. Unless the cams already in the engine show abnormal wear, which would be an extreme rarity, I would not change them. As for regrinds, that would need to be done by someone that really knows the M96 engine profile, as a lot of engineering has already gone into the cams already in the car, and the OEM cam profile is pretty much maxed out for the engine without going through the cylinder heads, etc.. I personally can only think of a couple people I would trust for that, and they would probably tell you the same thing. When it comes to going through one of these engines to get more power out it, you are going to be looking at spending between $15-20K, and that money must be spent very wisely (read spent on things that matter rather than the normal "hot rod" stuff).

As a matter of policy, we do not change any parts that have not been demonstrated to be defective. That is what diagnostic procedure's are for. As noted earlier, the actuators and solenoids can be individually tested to verify function, and as they are like a light bulb and either work or they don't, I would not change them without reason. As for replacing proven defective parts with used units; again, we would not go there as there are just too many downsides. Unless the cams already in the engine show abnormal wear, which would be an extreme rarity, I would not change them. As for regrinds, that would need to be done by someone that really knows the M96 engine profile, as a lot of engineering has already gone into the cams already in the car, and the OEM cam profile is pretty much maxed out for the engine without going through the cylinder heads, etc.. I personally can only think of a couple people I would trust for that, and they would probably tell you the same thing. When it comes to going through one of these engines to get more power out it, you are going to be looking at spending between $15-20K, and that money must be spent very wisely (read spent on things that matter rather than the normal "hot rod" stuff).

Refrigerant (R134A): 900 grams Compressor Oil: 195+/-15 cc

That is what I was concerned about. Porsche is pretty tough about their diagnostic systems.

Coding a module and coding the DME and alarm systems are two different things. It may work, but I am not aware of it doing so.

Be sure to also get the correct adaptors for both the tank and the cap, which are sold separately.

As the KTS is a pretty price unit (some of the Chinese clones are selling for $2,300), I'm sure there is some mechanism to get them fixed, probably though Bosch. Only caveat would be your unit's provenance, there are more than a few of these units running around with a questionable history......

Any DME swap is going to require some recoding. While I have very little direct experience with the Launch product line, I seriously doubt it will be able to recode your car and get everything to connect. You need a PIWIS.

Just about anything can leak, even brand new parts just out of the box. I would be pressure testing the system and the cap with something like a Stant pressure test unit:

Yes, but you need to be careful of what you use as you do not want to damage the seals on the struts when they go back in service. The best thing is to just let the car sit on the ground.

If you are already doing the clutch, also doing the RMS and IMS only adds another hour or two labor plus the parts. Check with your local PCA chapter for a good list of quality shops in your area that specializes in Porsches. You need to both can the old Durametric clone as it is woefully out of date and of questionable origin, and use the new version 6 sytem. Your real Durametric should be able to test activate an entire laundry list of components in your car, so I would suggest becoming more familiar with its menus and how to test systems. You can download a complete manual for the system at their website which will help you familiarize yourself with its capabilities: http://www.durametric.com/support.aspx

(you should never store one of these cars with the suspension hanging, very bad for the struts). . Will it be ok to store it if the wheels are removed as there is less weight for the struts? I was planning to store my 996TT for about 3 months in a lift until I read this... Thanks No, it is not the weight on the struts, it is corrosion that sets in on the strut shafts while they are extended that ultimately kills the struts when they go back in service.

That still is not going to tell you which style bearing is in it...............

Sorry, but, " Today I received my Durametric and I ran at start up and idle camshaft position deviation and on bank 1 I got 12.25 and on bank 2 I got -6.69." tells me that both banks our outside the +/- 6 degree specs. Again, unless the deviation values are swinging back and forth wildly at idle, it is not an IMS issue (If the values you posted remain steady at idle, your IMS is still OK.) or the cam actuators, it is wear on the parts indicated above, as the VarioCam actuators do not function at idle, only at higher RPM's. You can prove that for yourself by triggering the VarioCam actuators one at a time at idle using the Durametric. Your idle should become lumpy and the cam values should jump about 25 degrees; it they both do this, the actuators are fine. While updating the IMS on these engines is always a good idea, if you did replace it, it would not correct your cam deviation issues. When we get a car in for an IMS retrofit, one of the first things we do while pre-qualifying the car is check the cam deviation values; if they are out of spec like yours, we will not do an IMS retrofit unless the issues causing the deviation problem are also corrected. We know only too well what will happen if the deviation problem is not corrected; the car will get a new IMS, promptly start throwing codes due to the cam deviation, and the shop will get blamed for a problem that was already there before we touched it.

Answered elsewhere; you need new wear pads.

As that is a five chain motor, most likely the excessive cam deviation values on both banks (limit is +/- 6 degrees) is due to wear on the tensioning pads in between each cam on the cylinder heads: This is a common problem on the five chain design, and one of the reasons Porsche went to a three chain layout. Not difficult to repair, but you will need some specialized tools, and this has be covered as a DIY, so run a search for the details.

The VIN will not tell you which style IMS bearing is in a 2005 car. 2005 was a transitional year, some cars came with the serviceable single row IMS, others came with the last design bearing that requires tearing the engine apart to replace. Unfortunately, the only way to know which bearing is in the engine is to pull the flywheel off and look at the center bolt on the IMS flange. If the bolt is a 22MM, it is the bearing that requires taking the engine apart, that bearing is the only one that used that size center bolt. There are no lists of VIN's, engine numbers, or any other form of data that will tell you what is in there, you have to look.

Sometimes it is just the little things that leave us scratching our heads. Glad you finally got it sorted.

Yes, CLU stands for "Central Locking Unit", which is programmed to accept the pill in your keys and to communicate with the DME or main computer.

Yes.

Each alarm point is recognized separately, so the alarm module should see it. If the CLU needs to be replaced, it is definitely a dealer (or very well equipped indie) item as some recoding will be required.

61 and 47 indicate that one of the door locks is not reaching the locked position and causing an alarm fault. Most likely a mechanical issue in the lock mechanism. He should have also been able to seen the last then alarm location faults in the system, which would of told you which door. The OBD II manual says it could be either door, or could also be the module itself, but offers diagnostic's to help track it down: Fault code 61 Central locking limit position - unlocked not reached Diagnostic conditions • Control of central locking system in the direction of "unlocked" Possible cause of fault ♦ Wrong country coding ♦ Short circuit to ground/open circuit in the wiring between the alarm system control module, central locking switch or door locks ♦ Door lock (driver/passenger) faulty ♦ Control module faulty Affected terminals Plug A, terminals 5, 28, 29, 30, 32 Plug B, terminal 3 During troubleshooting, the micro switches of the door locks are tested in Step 4. The test is to be used only for vehicles with "safe position". USA vehicles do not have a "safe" position; "Driver’s door secured" and "Passenger’s door secured" are therefore displayed during the "Input signals" test. Diagnosis/troubleshooting Note! Work instruction Display OK If not OK 1 Check coding ♦ In menu item "Country coding", check whether the alarm system control module is correctly coded for the place of use ⇒ Step 2 Recode the alarm system control module (country coding) → Ende 2 Check central locking switch ♦ In the menu item "Input signals", select "Central locking system button" ♦ Actuate central locking system switch and check the statuses on the screen ⇒ Step 3 ⇒ Step 5 96-63 page 2 9601 Fault code 61 61xxxi48 96 3 Check leads between the alarm system control module and the door locks for short circuit to ground ♦ Pull plugs A and B off the alarm system control module ♦ Pull plug off both door locks ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 5 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 28 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 30 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 32 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 3 and ground ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 4 Repair wiring harness → End 4 Check leads between the alarm system control module and the door locks for open circuit ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 5 and pin 7 on plug of door lock on driver’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 28 and pin 7 on plug of door lock on passenger’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 30 and pin 3 on plug of door lock on driver’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 32 and pin 3 on plug of door lock on passenger’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 3 and pin 2 on plug of the driver’s side and passenger’s side door locks ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 9 and ground< 5 Ω ⇒ Step 5 Repair wiring harness → End 5 Check micro switches of the two door locks (possible detection of faulty driver’s/passenger’s door lock) ♦ Push plugs A and B back onto the alarm system control module ♦ Reconnect plugs to both door locks ♦ Close doors ♦ Vehicle not secured and not locked ♦ Select "Driver’s side locked", "Passenger’s side locked" "Driver’s side secured" and "Passenger’s side secured" in menu item "Input signals". Driver’s side not locked Passenger’s side not locked Driver’s side not secured (not applicable to USA vehicles) Passenger’s side not secured (not applicable to USA vehicles) ⇒ Step 12 ⇒ Step 11 6 Check central locking switch ♦ Remove central locking switch and pull plug off the switch ♦ Measure resistance between pins 4 and 1 on the central locking switch Central locking switch actuated in "open" direction< 5 Ω Central locking switch not actuated in "close" direction ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 6 7 Check central locking switch ♦ Measure resistance between pins 4 and 2 on the central locking switch Central locking switch actuated in "open" direction< 5 Ω Central locking switch not actuated in "open" direction ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 7 8 Check the wire from the central locking switch to the control module for short circuit to ground ♦ Pull plug off central locking switch ♦ Pull plug A off the alarm system control module ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on control module pin 29 and ground ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 8 9 Check the wire from the central locking switch to the control module for open circuit ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on control module pin 29 and plug on switch for central locking pin 1 10 Check the wire from the central locking switch to the control module for open circuit ♦ Measure resistance between pins 1 and 2 of plug for central locking switch approx. 180 Ω at 20 °C ⇒ Step 10 11 Check wire from fuse C 3 to central locking switch ♦ Switch on ignition ♦ Measure voltage between plug on the central locking switch pin 4 and ground> 11 V ⇒ Step 12 Check fuse C 3 or repair wiring harness → End 12 ♦ Depending on the test result of the input signals test in step 4, replace the driver’s/passenger’s door lock → End 13 ♦ Replace alarm system control module

It needs to come down further, the tank is simply trapped in an opening.

I would concur with Ahsai in soaking the part with penetrating oil and letting it sit, perhaps over night. Worst case scenario is having to rebuild the caliper with a new piston, but this is the exception rather than the rule as they usually come out once the penetrant does its thing. This happens due to corrosion, particularly on cars that have seen salted winter roads. Once removed, be sure to coat the parts with anti seize compound to prevent this from happening again.