JFP in PA

Absolutely it is necessary. Taking short cuts on an IMS retrofit is a recipe for disaster; most of the ones we see that have gone bad did so because those doing the swap did not follow the LN proceedures to the letter.

I'm not sure sure about that RMS tool (FVD Brombacher (Part #FVD 721 T25 0)) as it looks like the old style tool which would install the newer PTFE seal at the wrong service depth. What was the measurement from the crank face to the seal when installed?

Depends upon the quality of the silicone hoses. A lot of silicone hose softens dramatically as it warms, which is going to be the case in an engine compartment. If you can get hose that is designed for the heat, you should be fine.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/310-v8-automatic-transmission-fluid-and-filter-change/

No, but a lack of commuinications between the pill in the key and the alarm module would do it.

If you have already replaced the ignition switch, I'd check the car's main grounds (starter/alternator circuits) for excessive voltage drop (sign of corrosion/bad connections). You should be able to find a DIY using a simple multimeter.

You have an air leak somewhere, the codes indicate that both banks are running so lean that the DME can no longer compensate. Based upon the sound you describe, I'd start by looking at the EVAP system which is adjacent to the fuel filler in the passenger side front wheel well. Do a search, there have been postings with photos about this system and its potential leak points.

You will probably need to calibrate the fuel level system after changing the sending unit, which will require either the Durametric software or a PIWIS.

You have a communications failure over the CAN Bus. This is going to require checking the bus it self as well as testing the individual controllers for the codes.

You can also get it for $33.64 with free shipping on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-0280142308-Purge-Valve/dp/B001COAS8M)

Our normal service intervals for the Tiptronic are 40-60K, regardless of total mileage.

You may or may not hear a "click" as it is often faint.

Check fuse E6, and then read this: http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/getdownload/87-94boxster-fuel-tank-hose-modificationpdf/

The hydraulic system in these cars can easily generate one to two thousand PSIG of fluid pressure; using that to pop out a piston can be anything from dangerous to having brake fluid everywhere when it comes out. Gazing is the transfer of brake pad material (usually the resin that bonds the pads together ) to the rotor surface and then often back onto the pads themselves. Glazing can often be removed by lightly sanding the pads and buffing the rotors: If the rotors are very glazed, a light cut might be in order if they have enough meat left. Brake system pressure is measured by attaching gauges to either the calipers or the brake lines: An additional thought would be to check your power brake booster as well, they tend to collect water and suffer small vacuum leaks, which would also significantly reduce perceived braking efforts.

JFP, to get a stuck piston out couldn't you just restrain the other three pistons with clamps and step on the brake pedal? Containing the caliper in a bucket would catch any brake fluid. Now that we happen to be on brakes, those in my C4S are just not stopping well. I changed the brake fluid and bled the calipers from both sides. If they got any better at all it was probably psychological. The front rotors and pads have only 21k miles on them, the rears are the originals. All parts are OEM Porsche. Got any ideas? Anyone? To me, that approach is kind of "the nuclear option". Because of the pressure the brake hydraulic system operates at, you could easily create a projectile as well as one Hell of a mess when and if it pops out. I would prefer pressurizing it with air so that I could control both the blow out and potential mess. I'd check your front rotors for wear thickness and look at the pads and rotors to see if they are glazed on the surface. You could also have a weakening master cylinder that is producing low pressure, which will significantly reduce braking effort.

On your car, I believe the line from the reservoir is a push on at the reservoir end with a small spring clamp. The other ends just push on and snap in place.

The Uview system will extract all the air out of the system as long as the adaptor is not touching liquid. You should definitely be pulling 24-26 inches of vacuum on the car.

I has to be something driven by the belt, so an idler or a pump (water, power steering, etc.). You could try isolating it while the car idles, or pull the belt and try turning each component by hand to see if something makes noise.

The line is not expensive, less than $30 at retail, and I think it comes with the clip. Sometimes lines that have been in place for a long time don't give it up easily and need to be replaced.

Which lines are your referring to, the red arrow presses in, the yellow arrow pulls out: Parts are OEM, although someone like Pelican may carry them.

Sure, first take a moment and scan all the way around the bell housing one time to make sure nothing is caught between the trans and the engine (you would be surprised how often it is that simple). Make sure that when you are trying to move the trans into position that the face of the bell housing and engine case are parallel to each other. We often see first timers with the trans tilted at an angle which will never work. One trick that really helps with this is to go to Lowes and get some spare bolts that are way longer than the real ones for the bell housing and cut the heads off them and hand thread them into two of the outer bell housing bolt holes. They will act like guide pins to help hold the trans in the correct alignment while moving it home. Be sure the trans is going over the guide pins on the back of the engine case (bolt holes at 9 and 1 o'clock if you are looking at the rear of the engine), these are a common "1/2 inch hold up" item. Make sure the clutch fork is properly seated and the slave is engaging it correctly (another favorite). If the slave hydraulic line is attached, open the bleeder and put a drain line on it so that you are not trying to overcome the clutch hydraulic system. You can always re-bleed the system when it is back together. If everything is clear, put the trans in gear and try rotating the axle flange back and forth while pushing the trans in ( looking for clutch spline misalignment here). Quite often, we see people juggle and juggle with the trans, seemingly for hours until it suddenly lines up and bingo, it is in place. There is only one correct alignment, and an infinite number or misalignments, so don't get frustrated or try to force it home; when everything is lined up, it will slide right in.

Should be.

Yes, but the news is not what you want to hear. If something has dropped into the gearbox/diff, you need to get it out before it gets in-between moving parts and does significant damage. This probably is going to require pulling the gear box......

If the dealer correctly pressure tested the entire system, including the tank and cap, and found no leaks, it is not the neck of the tank. I am beginning to wonder if you have a different problem that is over pressuring the system, causing the cap to have to vent. I have seen this happen on cars with slight cracks in the cylinder heads.

First of all, a PPI has to be independent of the seller, it is your last chance to catch anything before spending your money. A PPI by the selling dealer is never a good idea. Secondly, it is not unknown for a seller to take some remedial action on PPI "deduct" items. If the problems are correctly fixed, it is a good thing. But it is also possible to hide issues like oil leaks by cleaning the engine and using heavier weigh oils to slow the leak down, or short filling the sump to help hide it. The leak would appear fixed, but is really not. When looking for someone to do a PPI on your behalf, check sources like your local PCA chapter for resources in your area.