JFP in PA

Just about anything can leak, even brand new parts just out of the box. I would be pressure testing the system and the cap with something like a Stant pressure test unit:

Yes, but you need to be careful of what you use as you do not want to damage the seals on the struts when they go back in service. The best thing is to just let the car sit on the ground.

If you are already doing the clutch, also doing the RMS and IMS only adds another hour or two labor plus the parts. Check with your local PCA chapter for a good list of quality shops in your area that specializes in Porsches. You need to both can the old Durametric clone as it is woefully out of date and of questionable origin, and use the new version 6 sytem. Your real Durametric should be able to test activate an entire laundry list of components in your car, so I would suggest becoming more familiar with its menus and how to test systems. You can download a complete manual for the system at their website which will help you familiarize yourself with its capabilities: http://www.durametric.com/support.aspx

(you should never store one of these cars with the suspension hanging, very bad for the struts). . Will it be ok to store it if the wheels are removed as there is less weight for the struts? I was planning to store my 996TT for about 3 months in a lift until I read this... Thanks No, it is not the weight on the struts, it is corrosion that sets in on the strut shafts while they are extended that ultimately kills the struts when they go back in service.

That still is not going to tell you which style bearing is in it...............

Sorry, but, " Today I received my Durametric and I ran at start up and idle camshaft position deviation and on bank 1 I got 12.25 and on bank 2 I got -6.69." tells me that both banks our outside the +/- 6 degree specs. Again, unless the deviation values are swinging back and forth wildly at idle, it is not an IMS issue (If the values you posted remain steady at idle, your IMS is still OK.) or the cam actuators, it is wear on the parts indicated above, as the VarioCam actuators do not function at idle, only at higher RPM's. You can prove that for yourself by triggering the VarioCam actuators one at a time at idle using the Durametric. Your idle should become lumpy and the cam values should jump about 25 degrees; it they both do this, the actuators are fine. While updating the IMS on these engines is always a good idea, if you did replace it, it would not correct your cam deviation issues. When we get a car in for an IMS retrofit, one of the first things we do while pre-qualifying the car is check the cam deviation values; if they are out of spec like yours, we will not do an IMS retrofit unless the issues causing the deviation problem are also corrected. We know only too well what will happen if the deviation problem is not corrected; the car will get a new IMS, promptly start throwing codes due to the cam deviation, and the shop will get blamed for a problem that was already there before we touched it.

Answered elsewhere; you need new wear pads.

As that is a five chain motor, most likely the excessive cam deviation values on both banks (limit is +/- 6 degrees) is due to wear on the tensioning pads in between each cam on the cylinder heads: This is a common problem on the five chain design, and one of the reasons Porsche went to a three chain layout. Not difficult to repair, but you will need some specialized tools, and this has be covered as a DIY, so run a search for the details.

The VIN will not tell you which style IMS bearing is in a 2005 car. 2005 was a transitional year, some cars came with the serviceable single row IMS, others came with the last design bearing that requires tearing the engine apart to replace. Unfortunately, the only way to know which bearing is in the engine is to pull the flywheel off and look at the center bolt on the IMS flange. If the bolt is a 22MM, it is the bearing that requires taking the engine apart, that bearing is the only one that used that size center bolt. There are no lists of VIN's, engine numbers, or any other form of data that will tell you what is in there, you have to look.

Sometimes it is just the little things that leave us scratching our heads. Glad you finally got it sorted.

Yes, CLU stands for "Central Locking Unit", which is programmed to accept the pill in your keys and to communicate with the DME or main computer.

Yes.

Each alarm point is recognized separately, so the alarm module should see it. If the CLU needs to be replaced, it is definitely a dealer (or very well equipped indie) item as some recoding will be required.

61 and 47 indicate that one of the door locks is not reaching the locked position and causing an alarm fault. Most likely a mechanical issue in the lock mechanism. He should have also been able to seen the last then alarm location faults in the system, which would of told you which door. The OBD II manual says it could be either door, or could also be the module itself, but offers diagnostic's to help track it down: Fault code 61 Central locking limit position - unlocked not reached Diagnostic conditions • Control of central locking system in the direction of "unlocked" Possible cause of fault ♦ Wrong country coding ♦ Short circuit to ground/open circuit in the wiring between the alarm system control module, central locking switch or door locks ♦ Door lock (driver/passenger) faulty ♦ Control module faulty Affected terminals Plug A, terminals 5, 28, 29, 30, 32 Plug B, terminal 3 During troubleshooting, the micro switches of the door locks are tested in Step 4. The test is to be used only for vehicles with "safe position". USA vehicles do not have a "safe" position; "Driver’s door secured" and "Passenger’s door secured" are therefore displayed during the "Input signals" test. Diagnosis/troubleshooting Note! Work instruction Display OK If not OK 1 Check coding ♦ In menu item "Country coding", check whether the alarm system control module is correctly coded for the place of use ⇒ Step 2 Recode the alarm system control module (country coding) → Ende 2 Check central locking switch ♦ In the menu item "Input signals", select "Central locking system button" ♦ Actuate central locking system switch and check the statuses on the screen ⇒ Step 3 ⇒ Step 5 96-63 page 2 9601 Fault code 61 61xxxi48 96 3 Check leads between the alarm system control module and the door locks for short circuit to ground ♦ Pull plugs A and B off the alarm system control module ♦ Pull plug off both door locks ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 5 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 28 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 30 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 32 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 3 and ground ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 4 Repair wiring harness → End 4 Check leads between the alarm system control module and the door locks for open circuit ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 5 and pin 7 on plug of door lock on driver’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 28 and pin 7 on plug of door lock on passenger’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 30 and pin 3 on plug of door lock on driver’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 32 and pin 3 on plug of door lock on passenger’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 3 and pin 2 on plug of the driver’s side and passenger’s side door locks ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 9 and ground< 5 Ω ⇒ Step 5 Repair wiring harness → End 5 Check micro switches of the two door locks (possible detection of faulty driver’s/passenger’s door lock) ♦ Push plugs A and B back onto the alarm system control module ♦ Reconnect plugs to both door locks ♦ Close doors ♦ Vehicle not secured and not locked ♦ Select "Driver’s side locked", "Passenger’s side locked" "Driver’s side secured" and "Passenger’s side secured" in menu item "Input signals". Driver’s side not locked Passenger’s side not locked Driver’s side not secured (not applicable to USA vehicles) Passenger’s side not secured (not applicable to USA vehicles) ⇒ Step 12 ⇒ Step 11 6 Check central locking switch ♦ Remove central locking switch and pull plug off the switch ♦ Measure resistance between pins 4 and 1 on the central locking switch Central locking switch actuated in "open" direction< 5 Ω Central locking switch not actuated in "close" direction ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 6 7 Check central locking switch ♦ Measure resistance between pins 4 and 2 on the central locking switch Central locking switch actuated in "open" direction< 5 Ω Central locking switch not actuated in "open" direction ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 7 8 Check the wire from the central locking switch to the control module for short circuit to ground ♦ Pull plug off central locking switch ♦ Pull plug A off the alarm system control module ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on control module pin 29 and ground ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 8 9 Check the wire from the central locking switch to the control module for open circuit ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on control module pin 29 and plug on switch for central locking pin 1 10 Check the wire from the central locking switch to the control module for open circuit ♦ Measure resistance between pins 1 and 2 of plug for central locking switch approx. 180 Ω at 20 °C ⇒ Step 10 11 Check wire from fuse C 3 to central locking switch ♦ Switch on ignition ♦ Measure voltage between plug on the central locking switch pin 4 and ground> 11 V ⇒ Step 12 Check fuse C 3 or repair wiring harness → End 12 ♦ Depending on the test result of the input signals test in step 4, replace the driver’s/passenger’s door lock → End 13 ♦ Replace alarm system control module

It needs to come down further, the tank is simply trapped in an opening.

I would concur with Ahsai in soaking the part with penetrating oil and letting it sit, perhaps over night. Worst case scenario is having to rebuild the caliper with a new piston, but this is the exception rather than the rule as they usually come out once the penetrant does its thing. This happens due to corrosion, particularly on cars that have seen salted winter roads. Once removed, be sure to coat the parts with anti seize compound to prevent this from happening again.

This tool will work on both the M96 and 97 style engines (1997-2008 model years), all of which used the same RMS. The Turbo cars are different as they use a different version engine. This tool has also been evaluated against the nearly $500 OEM tool and was found to correctly install the PTFE RMS seal at the ideal 13MM depth.

It is hard to tell as there are too many un-dimensioned variables here (previous wear on the clutch, driving style, car usage, etc.). I'd suggest driving it and seeing if any problems pop up.

I find that acetone (nail polish remover) works very quickly and leaves no residue. The other solvents should work as well, but I have no reference point to their effectiveness as I have never tried them.

If you are referring to the inner sleeve, leave it in place, the tool should retain it when the seal goes in.

OK, pretty simple actually. If it is not out already, you need to pull the old seal. Normal way is to thread a small screw into the body of the seal and pull it out with pliers, being extremely careful to not let the screw scratch either the crank flange or the seal bore. Using a small lint free cloth and a bit of acetone, carefully wipe off any grease, oil, or residue left by the old seal. Both the bore and flange must be scrupulously clean, no fingerprints or any other materials should remain. I've pulled down this diagram to help with the explanation: Now slide the new seal over the assembly aid, being careful to not get fingerprints on the mating surfaces, clean nitrile gloves are the order of the day for this step. Attach the assembly aid (item #5 above) to the rear of the crank flange. I don't think the old flywheel bolts will do for this, my tool came with two bolts with small Torx style heads that fit inside the two openings. I sure you can find a metric Allan head bolt that would do the same job, but I think the old flywheel bolts have too large a shoulder on them which would get in the way. This assembly aid does not have to be overly tight, I just run it down with a 1/4 drive ratchet until they are snug. Now slide the insertion tool (#2 above) over the two guide pins and up against the seal, holding it there until you can get the large tightening screw started by hand and threaded down until it is holding the seal. Now, using a wrench or ratchet, carefully tighten the screw until the tool just bottoms against the assembly aid, which should set the seal at the prescribed 13MM insertion depth: Now remove the large screw and insertion tool, then the assembly aid, and admire your new correctly installed PTFE seal.

What codes, and what type of diagnostic tool was used to retrieve them? Thank you for your prompt and detailed reply. I just sent the seller an email asking what the codes are. He claims that he uses the Durametric tool. My seller just had surgery, so my reply is slow. Codes are 0130 and 5525. Seller claims that 0130 is mass air flow which he claims to have replaced twice. 5525 he claims is improper data from DME. Any idea as to what is wrong and how much it might cost to repair? OK, I am going to stick my neck out here because I obviously have not seen the car, and say "Walk away". P5525 is troublesome; it is not "improper data from the DME" but rather a data communications fault with the DME, which can cause the car to throw ABS, PSM and other codes. While there have been cases where P5525 was caused by leaking intercooler hoses, in the worst case scenario, a P5525 can result in having to replace the DME, which is anything but cheap. I am concerned about the DME being "reprogrammed" without knowing by whom and to what it was reflashed. I would also like to know if the DME has ever be reflashed to an aftermarket program, some of which cause long term problems with these cars. Porsche's are complicated, Porsche Turbo's are very complicated. You could be buying in to a real can of worms here, and I'm sure there are other Turbo's for sale out there which would pass a PPI with flying colors.

The electrical side would be covered in the wiring diagrams found in either the OEM service manuals or in aftermarket sources such as the Bentley manuals. The vacuum line routing would still be as Loren has already noted.

They are fusible links that go in the current distributor, which is in the upper dash on the passenger's side:

Not without some recoding; the car will see an airbag system fault because the air bag is no longer there.